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About ChristianG

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  • Location
    Terrigal, a bit north of Sydney, Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sigma SD14
  • Camera Housing
    BS Kinetics Lut
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 x subtronic Nova
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arms
  1. If I can do it, anybody can 1) Go to the head of this page and click on ... Hmmmmmm, I haven't done it in so long that I can't remember. It's bound to be blindingly simple, can someone else help please? When you get there, remember to change your subject matter to something more pertinent, such as "Remote video camera for observing spawning alewives". That "remote" bit is important, people around here may otherwise assume you are a diver.
  2. I would advise you to again ask the questions on this forum but, this time, do so in an entirely separate thread. I say this because it will otherwise get drowned by the responses to the still camera questions, video and still cameras are still poles apart in their capabilities. Your major question is intriguing but I would advise that you re-check your figures. Why would you want/need a camera with a depth of 10' when the maximum depth of the channel is apparently 6-8' or am I missing something, yet again, here?
  3. That first one is pure and simple rubbish. (1) You'll outgrow it pretty soon and (2) it's, frankly, much too simple anyway for anything other than "Happy Snaps". If that's all you want it for (I'm willing to bet that you're not). why, go for it, otherwise save your money (you'd be lucky to get some of it back anyway). As for the G15, do you know that the G16 has recently been released? Mind, I'm not necessarily saying that it's significantly better than the G15 but I happen to know that B&H New York currently have it at $US100 less than the projected price of the G16. It's not a bad camera, of its genre, but it's not the one I would buy in that circumstance. That would be the Canon S110 which has also just been superseded by the S120.
  4. "As far as i am concerned about your question, you should consult some expert for it" Really? There I was under the, obviously incorrect, impression that lots of people on Wetpixel were able provide answers to questions. Obviously I was wrong and we should all "consult some expert for it". Would you now like to, please, provide such an "expert"?
  5. The Sony RX100 II (good camera BTW) is currently available from B&H New York for $US748 which, yes, is rather pricey although you gets what you pays for. Against that the Canon S110 (including Canon-badged housing) would set you back $US647 from the same store, Both cameras shoot raw (very desirable, particularly unnawata) but, but of course, the Sony sports a Carl Zeiss lens, no bad thing that. There are lots of other housings also available for that Canon, housing manufacturers are not stupid, but less so for the Sony. My apologies for any typos, I desperately need new glasses. Oh well, it's off to the optometrist I go tomorrow (Monday hereabouts),
  6. And your point is? Sorry but I quite simply don't see any connection between swimming with whales (obviously in sea water) and "fresh" water swimming pools. To the OP: I'd go with something like the Canon S110 (or 100, the differences for underwater purposes are miniscule) and a housIng, whether that is Canon's self badged one or another is up to you and largely depends on whether you want to get into diving proper. If you do, learn to dive (properly) and, only then, drag out that camera. Cameras and diving don't mix well at all until you have some expertise at the diving lark. That applies equally to your own well-being in the water as that of the local inhabitants. To be, or try to be, a little more positive, if you buy that Canon S100/110 you have a plethora of housings available to you, camera housing manufacturers are not stupid you know, they know a good thing when they see it. Ikelite, for example, have been doing this sort of stuff since the early sixties meaning they have some reasonable knowledge of what gives. Their housings are rated to 60 metres, no bad thing if you decide to get into this diving lark.
  7. You will probably find that hardly anyone on this Forum would entertain a Digipac, or a Ewa Marine or other, similar, housings. The "soft housings" are mostly confined to canoeing/rafting, skiing, raining and similar because it's conceived, FWIW I agree, that these options are not entirely satisfactory for underwater work. Of course their manufacturers would entirely disagree with this perception. Remember, though, that drownings can, and do, happen with monotonous regularity. Again, the perception is that these types of housings drown more often than their "hard" counterparts. Against that I would suggest that the average user of a "soft" housing has nowhere near the same level of expertise in keeping a housing secure than a photographer with a "hard" housing.
  8. I live in Oz. Unless you go to Ningaloo Reef on the West Coast at the appropriate time, or see a Minke whale (never done it in-water) on the East Coast again at the appropriate time, the closest "big animal" action you are likely to see is Reef Sharks, other sharks will undoubtedly see you but you are most unlikely to see them. The closest I've come to a Great White is finding a couple of their teeth once at a Reef near Forster (NSW and a top diving destination). I was there visiting with the Grey Nurses which, again, are a seasonal experience. I shoot a DSLR for which I have 2 x Macro lenses, 2 x Wide Angles, 2 x conventional Zoom lenses and a Fisheye. Although I always take all of these away with me on diving trips it's the Fisheye and the Macro lenses that get the most use in fact the least-used lenses are probably the wide angle ones. I do point out that here I am talking about Oz only, things might be very different if overseas or if I am going to a Great White expedition in South Australia when my widest lens might (just) do. But you're not going to do any of that on your first trip so I highly recommend to you the KISS (Keep It Simple and Straightforward more commonly seen as Keep It Simple, Stupid) principle. But, yes, the more you can practise with your new camera in Canada, the better off you will be here in Oz. That applies equally to your diving, don't put it off, do it now and the sooner the better. Then practise, practise, practise, then practise some more. Trust me when I say that, in SCUBA, practise doesn't make you perfect, nothing does that. It merely makes you that little bit more competent.
  9. From Wikipedia: "Monsoon is traditionally defined as a seasonal reversing wind accompanied by corresponding changes in precipitation, but is now used to describe seasonal changes in atmospheric circulation and precipitation associated with the asymmetric heating of land and sea." I'm not, in the least, claiming that Wikipedia is the final arbiter of these things, it is merely a convenient arbiter. Where I grew up (called "Ceylon" in those days and, no, I'm neither Ceylonese nor Sri Lankan) monsoon meant rain, lots of rain and that was all I (then) understood by the term. My comments were just a tad more general than where, for example, North Sulawesi, is located. I fully accept that your more detailed knowledge of the area is greater, probably by far, than mine but, in general, I feel that my comments still stand.
  10. It is indeed a weather problem at that time, otherwise I would probably have recommended Walindi resort and the FeBrina liveaboard that operates from there. I've been to PNG five times so I think I have a reasonable idea, I don't think that the weather (you might be lucky, you're more likely to be unlucky) is something to be toyed with on a trip like this. My recommendation in this instance would be the Orion liveaboard out of the Maldives but, sadly, no "huts above the lagoon". Having said that they do go to several resort type places and, I'm sure, would be able to accommodate this request if asked, particularly beforehand. The problem, but of course, is that the Orion operates to a schedule which is not particularly conducive to a set schedule such as this one. The good news is that you could probably combine Orion with a "land" (over water?) based stay for the extra time.
  11. So when are you planning to go there, since no-one seems to have mentioned this? Indonesia (and northern Australia) has "The Big Wet" (Oz) and the monsoon season (Indonesia) during the northern winter, our summer. I suggest that you don't want to be in either location between, say, December and April/May for fear of suffering from this. In addition, during that time you could well shake hands with a Cyclone or two (called a Hurricane in northern climes) and you definitely don't want to know about one of those puppies at all. The best time to visit these parts is in our winter, the northern summer.
  12. Let me put an Oz (well, sort of) perspective on this. The late, much lamented Ike of Ikelite really worked very hard at after sales service and his widow has carried on in the same vein. Sure, people like Aquatica probably have the same level of service but then Aquatica housings also, as a generality, cost about twice as much as Ikelite equivalents. Equally there are others whose service is legendary, as in not existing. Having said that, if you need service something has gone wrong and what experience I might have tells me that 99% of the time the problem is user error. I include my own (of course). I have only personally experienced one problem where the blame could be fairly laid at the feet of the manufacturer. And so to other things. It's been said already, I simply want to emphasise it, that you need experience in this photography lark, particularly in buoyancy skills. In my experience most people don't (today) get those overnight. I learned how to dive a lot of years ago but I was already a keen spearo (spearfisher) and so I already knew the sea well so buoyancy was, for me, of little issue. That is, more often than not, not the case today. Having said that, I believe that novice divers will learn the rest of what they need to know, such as breath control (the list goes on), as they learn about buoyancy, which is why I think that buoyancy is the big one. I venture to say that no-one, and I mean no-one, can take (even) adequate photos underwater without proper buoyancy control. I've seen too many camera toting cowvboya floundering about to think otherwise, Please don't become one of those, it's not a good look and, more importantly, bad for the ecology.
  13. Alexandria Reefs are not considered to be part of the GBR. Beware, incidentally, of the Irukandji Box Jellyfish (amongst other little nasties) if you go swimming there (by whatever means) at the wrong time.
  14. I suspect you might find that those packages do not incorporate a guarantee that you will in fact do that. Have you read the small print on the contract? As for your final question, the short answer is no. There are easier and cheaper ways of dealing with excessive moisture, such as a girlie tampon stuffed into the housing (if space permits) or, indeed, silica gel sachets (which are reusable after being zapped in the microwave), Even cheaper is a very small bag of rice or even of salt, although salt and cameras are not good bedfellows. There are other solutions but, for my part, I don't use any of them and, touch wood, never have had to. But then, I like to think that I more or less know how to handle a camera/housing (and, yes, it's pretty much an art form). Trust me when I say that care of a housing is not all beer and skittles. Edit/: Incidentally I went to Meike's website because I'd never heard of them. Are you sure that they have a housing for the GF3 (I assume you mean the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF3)? Hmmm, on Panasonic's website they say "Intuitive Touch-screen Operation with a large 460,000 dot LCD" and DP Review says "the GF3 can get away with relatively few direct control points because it relies on its touch-sensitive screen for a lot of the more 'in-depth' operation". Touch-screen operation underwater, even in-water? I don't think so.
  15. The Galaxy NS was an observation only, it was also an observation that cameras like it (with touch screens only) are useless for u/w purposes, whether snorkelling only or otherwise. I think you'll find that there are not many on here who would be able to give you a definitive opinion n the relative merits of "soft shell" housings - if only because the vast majority on here would prefer "hard shell" housings for their rather precious cameras. I would suggest to you though that in today's day and age you get what you pay for more often than not and Ewa Marine, generally, is more expensive than Digipac, probably also more so than any other manufacturer of such housings that you care to name. Allow me now to disabuse you of another notion that you seem to have. Are you quite sure that you will be able to snorkel with dolphins? In well over 40 years of diving I have only twice ever encountered dolphins underwater and one of those times (in Papua New Guinea) our boat was under way when they appeared and "allowed" us to enter the water with them, without SCUBA gear mind you. The only other time was locally when they approached us on deco and (but of course) I was out of film. Yes, film, it was that long ago.
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