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trimix125

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Everything posted by trimix125

  1. Hi, some strobe arms have a quick release build in, so you can do both: arm mounted or free hand... Sometimes its hard to adjust an arm exact how you want it, and then free hand is a possible solution. As tim mentioned, if you want back light, thats another situation, where a free strobe is needed. I have taken a seperate strobe with me, in the caves in Tulum, mexico. Only lay it on the floor with a small tray from strobe arms to adjust it, so the cave pics get more 3d light... Regards, Wolfgang
  2. Thanks Adam, a boring job that takes a lot of time for nothing.... Hope that is gone fast... Regards, Wolfgang
  3. Great video! Since years i followed these subs, got a time planner from a aqua archeological project, there these were used to discover the history of a chinese wreck from 1700... Hilti foundation and Franck Goddio... So i hope one day i can do a dive in one of these subs ;-)) Regards, Wolfgang
  4. Hi, no auto shut off. But can be used as video lights as well. Bright and powerfull, but dimmable...
  5. Hi, can make pics tomorrow. The 750 is very good, with box the 1000 is used, the switch / dial is corroded on the surface, so you cannot read the scale, but working as should. Box included. The 750 needs batteries / accu, the 1000 has a built in batterie. Dont know what is more your style... Regards, Wolfgang
  6. Hi, have a used FixLed1000 or a FixLed750. Depending what you need, want. Regards, Wolfgang
  7. Great idea!!! Last trip was the expensiest dive of my live, only one dive, before the travel agancy called us back... All the tourist based countries will have a big problem the next months... A lot of dive shops will struggle and some will close, so lets tell them they did a great job! And hopefully will do it in future too! Will ad some pics tomorrow from the compay pc. Regards, Wolfgang
  8. Sorry, translation mistake from me... In german batteries are single use, accus are rechargeable... My fault. Regards, Wolfgang
  9. Yes, the s&S 250pros are great! But heavy and bulky for airplane travelling.... I take them with me, if i can travell by car... Accus can easy bechanged to modell car accus, and there is a big range oft types and quality... For flying i use a pair of Inon Z240s, my girl friend a single Z330. And we are happy with them. Have a set of S&S D2 as well, but they are harder to ignite, the light sensor is much less sensitive than the Inons ( type 4 ). Same with the 250pros... The panels on the Z240s are a bit more tricky than the D2, thats why i bought them, specially for night and cave diving. But if they dont fire, it helps not a lot... Regards, Wolfgang
  10. Hi, actual i have a D750 and a D500, which is my favorite cam. Last trip i used a Sony A6300 underwater first time. D500 and Sony A6300 are more or less the same sensor, and age... But the difference in low light autofocus is a lot... The Sony is better in video, no question. But fast moving subjects, the D500 wins... Dont know if you know Mark Smith, he takes great bird pics, and used Nikon D500 and D850, and then changed to Sony A9 and now the new A7 IV, but allways gets back to compare. Its not so easy, specially if the use is a very small part of the cake, like under water pics... I like the idea of a leight weighted cam, but the Z6 / 7 are the first evils from Nikon, the Z50 is nice, but i think i will wait for the second edition before i think about changing.... And i have a lot of "old" lenses, some need a screw driven focus, so changing will need a good reason. Regards, Wolfgang
  11. Hi, its a virus very simmilar to the flue. But a bit more deadly. We had 25000 flue invected, dont know how many have died this year. But sure more than this one! And its allways the older or not so fit persons... A scientific pro had sayed that it is possible that this virus was around for years, but nobody had been tested for it. So if somebody died in wintertime while flue is around, nobody would have had a look for that virus... In the moment i am sitting on a tropical island, no case here... But i got a mail that i have to go home one week earlier, because there will be no more flights.... Here its save, and at home? Had to shorten the annual dive trip from 20 to 12 days before out of medical reasons. Now 7 days less.... Only spent a lot of money and had a stressy time traveling for nothing.. And thats the annual "long" holiday. Have no idea if i can get another one this year... Any we will do this and that in 3 days mean, that all the people will do it before, so no effect. If i tell you te traffic will be shut down on monday, you will leave saturday... And if infected, take it with you... Regards, Wolfgang
  12. Hi, from looking to my A6300, if you use the Dremel, you only have to cut the hinges on the outer sides of the door. Or use a fine milling cutter to remove them as close as possible to the metal axis, and then break it carefully out. So a Sony repair center can if needed, easy reinstall a new door. If possible install a vacuum cleaner close, so the plastic particles get caught. Regards, Wolfgang
  13. Hi, if you follow the problems in Italy, our neighbor state, you maybe change your mind... 100 dead people in one day... And why? Its a very family friendly / crowding country. Most of the dead persons are older than 60... Had other health issues, and the virus killed them! Means that younger, maybe not ill feeling members brought it with them, and the older had troubles with it.. Specially there it is common to travel a lot, and have contacts to tourists, like in Venice and the beach region... So any kind of virus can spread easy... And no other country has a so much deadly quote.... So please ceep the older ones seperated ( sorry dont know a better word ), as hard this sounds, and ceep them alive this way! Cancel a trip if it is necessary, and try the best to stay healthy.
  14. Hi, the price difference is not that big, and APSC is not only DSLR! If i compare an Oly OMD1 mkII with my Sony A6300 or newer. Take the same housing manufactor, and then the ports, maybe wetlens, cameras and lenses... Dont think that there is a big difference. But there is a weight difference, and thats the goal for me. Same quality but not so heavy! And if i compare the WWL-1 with my SEa & Sea ;-)) Maybe the same price but double the weight, and needs a port and lens.... Then there is no advantage of the m43 system left... Regards, Wolfgang
  15. Hi, as it was calculated for water, side by side would be the best way to test it. Can try that in Summer, when i can go by car to the sea ;-)) Have the 10 - 17mm Tokina on my Nikon D500, and the most time i used it between 14 - 17mm. Depending on the picture. But no WWl-1 for testing... And then its a question of the dome size and quality as well.... Regards, Wolfgang
  16. Hi, the Tokina has the same problem, it gets longer, no question. And some FF users even take a teleconverter to use it. But the big benefit is that i dont need a dome! So no reason to step down like f8, lightweighted and small if there is current... And sharp corners... And the 8mm m43 gets a 16mm, FF 16mm gets 24mm.... But next question is, what is the port doing to it? How is the image changed before the lens throught the domeport glas / projection? Would be interesting to see a side by side comparison. Regards, Wolfgang
  17. Hi, but if you take different lenses, the game is wide open.... Have a Sea & Sea 12mm FE for Nikonos that i will use this trip attached to the Sony A6300. No need for going to f8, its a water contact lens. And will bring a Nikonos 15mm as well. So i can shot wider open as with in dome lenses... Regards, Wolfgang
  18. Thanks Chris, yes the spanner is one thing, but i belive that the thread is stuck, because it is made of aluminium... And if i have a close look, that is only the first ring. In the second ring is a tiny ellenkey on one side, that could work as a lock for the next thread.... Will try that after the coming trip, gave her another Inon wide wet lens i have.... Thanks, Wolfgang
  19. Hi Interceptor, forget the lab measurements, and try it in the field... I had the Oly OMD 5 mkI and have switched to a Nikon D500. Simply because the sensor is better and allows me more things in low light. For travelling the m43 setup was great, no question. And i know you tell us that the OMD 1 mkII is much better. But physics tell us a simple story. The same sensor with more pixels can not be better than a bigger sensor ... And with FF its just a step more.. Thats why i now try a Sony A6300 ( more or less the same sensor as D500, but smaller camera and much more smaller housing). Simply because i wait for the second generation Nikon Z50 ( however that will be named ) and a Nauticam housing in the same design as the Sony A6xxx series. Had some Sony stuff, been using a Nex5, and 6 but then changed. Light weighted, small and great camera / sensor inside. And not FF, that would limit it too much... Sorry, Oly was great at that time, but what happens now? Macro was absolute top, and now? The sensor size is keeping it on a based field, not much possibilities. The other companies came later, but took their customers with them, and their lenses... Now i will be trying a Sea&Sea 12mm fisheye, manual focus, but small and light weighted, have a 15mm Nikonos as well and other lenses, Sony 90mm as macro lens.... If the next generation Nikon comes and Nauticam builds a small housing, i know how to spend my money ;-)) Regards, Wolfgang
  20. Hi, has anyone taken this lens apart? I have 3 lenses, one with broken back lens, one with scratched front lens, and one with a minor dot on the front element that disappiers then on top or bottom. These lenses are used by my girl friend, and she unlukily droped her first one, so the back element broke. I found a used one with minimal scratched front element, could be used, but could not take it appart. So i bought her a third one with a minor dot in the outer section of the front element, only had to rotate the sun shade.. Now she uses a different camera, and the M67 to AD adapter stops in a different angle, so the sun shade is 45 degrees of the normal position. with the screws on the back side i can not get the right position, but maybe if i can take it apart and turn the front element.... Have taken down that plastic ring that covers the screws, sun shade is off, but can not open the front element. It looks like it has 3 components, there is a ring with two spots for a tool on top, in the second i can see a tiny ellen key screw.... So if anybody has an idea how to open it, please let me know. Regards, Wolfgang
  21. It depends on the cave and water a lot.... Shallow caves in Mexico are green, if you go deeper, under the halocline, in the saltwater they look blue... So it will bea matter of different factors. Regards, Wolfgang
  22. The setup is a temporary thing.... Have to reduce weight now for some time because of medical reasons with my hand. Thats the only Nauticam WA dome i have in the moment, and a very universal one. If i can find a Zen mini dome port fitting from the old changeable style, i could use that... Mine is Hugy.... For the Hugy i have a big fish eye dome, a small one, and an Athena 170mm with S&S fitting and adapter. Plus some macro ports.. Other ports are the flatport 72 for the 18 - 55mm and the 6omm adapter plus 60mm extension for the 90mm macro. Plan would be to get a Nikon Z DX setup, but will wait for the next generation... Than i can reduce to only Nikon...
  23. Hi, Was doing my calculation in the wrong direction.... the Tokina 10 - 17mm is for the 4,33" mini dome port planned with 50mm adapter on the Nex / Axxx housings. For the Canon Dslr its only the 4,33" mini dome, or plus 20mm for the 8,5" dome. I have the 60mm adapter and the 8,5"mm dome, so i need only the 10 extension ;-)) The 20 & 40mm extension are laying around, but no fitting port either... Regards, Wolfgang
  24. Hi, thanks for the info! Found now that i have to use either the 34,7mm adapter and 10mm, because the 35,5 is a N100 to N120... Or i buy the 45mm N85 to N120 adapter.... That one is more expensive, on the other side gives me direct the 45mm without any other rings and has a zoom knob that maybe works... The 140mm glas dome port would be nice, but then again to long. Have the 60mm adapter, that is fine for the 90mm macro, but too long for the domes. Time to think... Regards, Wolfgang
  25. Hi Interceptor, this is what i wanted to know and thought how it could work. Thanks! The lenght difference results from the Metabone adapter, but the radius / port tio lens form factor should stay the same. A posibillity in that case would be to use the N85 to N120 35,5mm adapter and add the 10mm extension to my 8,5" dome. That would be nearly the same as the Dslr with 20mm extension and the 26mm for the Metabone adapter. And to compaire the other lens / port combos that are not in the N85mm chart, i wanted to know the Nikon N120 and the Sony N100 both style flange differences. So i can figure out what makes sense, what to buy and add to my list. Regards, Wolfgang
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