trimix125

Hi, Was doing my calculation in the wrong direction.... the Tokina 10 - 17mm is for the 4,33" mini dome port planned with 50mm adapter on the Nex / Axxx housings. For the Canon Dslr its only the 4,33" mini dome, or plus 20mm for the 8,5" dome. I have the 60mm adapter and the 8,5"mm dome, so i need only the 10 extension ;-)) The 20 & 40mm extension are laying around, but no fitting port either... Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, thanks for the info! Found now that i have to use either the 34,7mm adapter and 10mm, because the 35,5 is a N100 to N120... Or i buy the 45mm N85 to N120 adapter.... That one is more expensive, on the other side gives me direct the 45mm without any other rings and has a zoom knob that maybe works... The 140mm glas dome port would be nice, but then again to long. Have the 60mm adapter, that is fine for the 90mm macro, but too long for the domes. Time to think... Regards, Wolfgang

Hi Interceptor, this is what i wanted to know and thought how it could work. Thanks! The lenght difference results from the Metabone adapter, but the radius / port tio lens form factor should stay the same. A posibillity in that case would be to use the N85 to N120 35,5mm adapter and add the 10mm extension to my 8,5" dome. That would be nearly the same as the Dslr with 20mm extension and the 26mm for the Metabone adapter. And to compaire the other lens / port combos that are not in the N85mm chart, i wanted to know the Nikon N120 and the Sony N100 both style flange differences. So i can figure out what makes sense, what to buy and add to my list. Regards, Wolfgang

Hi Bill, but the entrance point should not change, thats why i want to know the measurements. Maybe not the right explaining from my side... When i use the same Tokina 10 - 17mm on a Canon DX or on a Sony DX the inside port to lens distance should be the same. The projection of the picture should not change. Only the lenght of the tube behind the curved part is a different one, since i have to use the Metabone adapter. But in the lens chart is no bigger port for the N85 system, and the only reason i could figure out, would maybe the force of the bigger port against the smaller housing / port connecting N85 vs N120. For dslr you can use from 4,33"" to big ones. I have been using this lens in the Hugy housing with a Zen 100mm dome or the Hugy fish eye dome. Different radius, different distance, ok. But if i use it on different systems, which would work in the charts for DX dslr, it should work for a DX mirrorles with the same port as long as i take the same distance. Hope i write it now clearer ;-)) Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, asking for a little help: Could Nauticam housing owners of different systems, specially Canon N120 / Nikon N120 and Sony N85 and N100 both styles measure the distance between housing and camera flange in milimeters please? Simply reason, some lenses, specially from Sigma and Tokina, are in all these charts, but sometimes with different ports, or combinations. The Tokina 11 - 16mm f2,8 is in the Nikon chart with 50mm extension, in the Canon with 60mm, both for tee 8,5" dome. For sure the Canon style lens is 3mm longer, but then i would be better to combinate 25 + 30mm, or? The Tokina 10 - 17mm is in the N85 chart only with the 4,33" mini dome.... So which would be the best big dome with the Sigma or Metabone adapter, and which lenght? I have some ports and try now to figure out a small system with a Sony A6300, and have to find out which N85 to N120 and extensions would be the best solution. But my Nikon dslr rig is Hugy, so i can not compare it ;-)) Any discussion is welcome. Thanks a lot, Wolfgang

Maybe Oly 12mm f2 for using the light from above? Small setup, lowers the Iso, not fisheye style.. Had used it for tresher sharks, was nice... Which lenses do you have now? Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, dont know how it is in february, but diving in Cozumel was very expensive as i remember... To close to the states... Night dives in the red sea can be great as anywhere else. We had lots of stuff in Dahab, where i was often, but i would not recomend it now out of security reasons... Yes if you are solo and stay away from crowded places, should be ok. Most of the shopes have closed, Planet divers is a euopean shop, polish tek divers, last time i was staying there, the sport divers got a guide, and i guided the tekkies... Nightdiving at lighthouse or caves was ok. Since this is the first year without a 2 week dive trip, which is normally the longer holiday every year, i am looking for a one week destination as well for march... Out of medical reasons it will be a last minute trip, if the doc gives a ok ;-)) So we think about Marsa alam, or Maledives... Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, think that Red Sea is a good option. You can get even pygmy seahorse or frogfish, lots of shrimp and so on. Maybe think of a resort working together with a biological station, so you can get entousiastic guides ;-)) The normal ones sometimes dont know what is living there, if it is smaller than 10cm... What we liked much was Marsa alam, great hose reefs, depending on the resort and Elphinsdome just a short boatride... We ve been to one resort for years, could dive what we wanted, but then it changed to an egypt owned resort, and you needed a guide for a house reef dive, so we never been there again... These guys freeze, want to leave as soon as possible and we knew all the places better than the guides, since we have been there for many years... Mangrove bay was nice as well, but long time since the last visit... This year maybe the Red sea will see us again, so if you find a good place, please let me know! Good luck, Wolfgang

Hi, the neoprene dome cap is on the dome for entering and leaving the water. I made two small holes in it, on opposite sides near the edge, and clipp it with the double sided piston clip, i use to fix my strobe arms as a handle for lifting out of water, during the dive. Two holes because otherwise it could float in the picture..... Same with the plastic cap from my 4" Zen dom, there is one hole enought. Worked well until last trip i took it off after installing, for a last shot, where it escaped from my hands.... Strong current and wall is a bad combination in that case... Regards, Wolfgang

There is some, but you have to find it by yourself... Lot of time hanging on the edge of canals looking for sharks in the blue. The guides are only for big stuff.... Would plan wide angle and fish portraits. Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, or check a strobe more with a slave trigger, so your buddy can hold it between diver and wall, to get these shadow shots. So only the trigger should be lined up to you, and the strobe is not seen... Have fun and great the cenots for me. Regards, Wolfgang

Some old guys say spit a lot on the dome and rib it, so there will be no drops... I have heard as well that a fresh cut potatoe ( better its juice ) helps. And you could try anti waterdrop fluid to stop forming drops as well. All the best, looking forward for that shots, had some ideas about this topic as well, Wolfgang

Hi, you are wellcome. We grow different species from the indo pacific in our tanks and breed frags. So i know how theyshould look ;-)) Sorry for no id, as its a caribean species, thats not my spezific area. And we once got a very small basket star as a blind passenger, or better we bought the gorgonie because of him ;-)) He was living for some months with us, but had been starving during transport and before selling, so was only recovering a bit even with lots of food ;-(( Regards, Wolfgang

This is a type of gorgonie. Not looking good, as the white tips are skelet where the coral is going back... No polyps outside, but algae on the surface... A basket star is looking very different.... Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, use this beauty as well since years... There was or maybe is an original Subal port for this lens including a af switch.... Its huge and heavy, but loved it with my D300 and now use it with the D500. For flying trips i use the Sigma 105mm OS, simply of weight and size reasons for lens and port... Its slower than the new afs lenses, but gives you more flexibility. Built myself a zoomgear out of an old Ikelite gear and a acrylic pipe as extension. No focus gear, if i want manual focus, i go close, switchthe af on the camera of and move front / back for focus. Regrds, Wolfgang

Depending on your strobe type, it can need a strong trigger and good fibre cable... Specially the Sea & Sea srtobes are hard to ignite...

Hi, yes, or you use a led trigger.

Tim is absolute right. And even strobes can get you only light in situations closer than 3m. Your camera is great for macros, but the smaller the sensor, the more light you will need. So have a look for good used ones, like Inon D2000, Inon Z240, Sea & Sea will be fine as well, as your camera is using a built in strobe for ignition. If you are used to shoot topside, maybe older but strong strobes without ttl could be a possibility. They are cheap.... Good luck, Wolfgang

Hi, as i have tried a lot, the Sea & Sea YS-D2 need a lot light to ignite..... So i think the only reason is that the multicore are newer and will transfer more light ;-)) The Inon type 4 take nearly everything.... Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, the problem is not the camera, the lens is slow.... Was trying a 90mm Sony against a 105mm Sigma ( Canon mount with the sigma adapter ) on a A6300, Sigma won in speed.... And have the same lens on my D500, very sharp and very, very fast. With the f stops, yes you can close them down, but every lens has a point there it starts to perform bad, and then badder.... So only closing it down is not the same. Had a Oly OMD5e before and loved the macros with the 60mm lens. Sharp and a lot of depht. And if you want supermacro, it gets harder the bigger the sensor is. Simply physics. Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, why a dx or aps-c camera for macro? Simply better dof. Dont know if only selecting crop mode, will bring the same... And if i compare the D500 with the Sigma 105mm OS against the Sony 90mm on a Axxxx, there are worlds in focusing speed in between... Dont know how it is on the A7 or A9 models. And i would only use single point focusing mode with macro, otherwise the small sharp part is anywhere. The Sony 90mm is sharp, no question, but slow.... Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, following your answers, i think about a setup with one gas transmitter and two computers. Does that work with any brand you know? @Adam Did that happen with new models, or older ones? Thaink about a Scubapro Mantis M2 as back up, using a G2 as primary.. @draq Do yuo use two complete sets or only one transmitter and if, which brand? Will still use a finimeter on hose, but would be fine if only checking one gauge if shooting intense... Regards, Wolfgang

Hi, have you tried to connect the fibre from the working strobe outgoing to the other one? So you can check ignition and fire if it works without ttl. Done that earlier with my Sea & Sea 250 pro..... Best of luck, Wolfgang

Hi, how much would the shipping to europe / austria be? Thanks, Wolfgang

Hi, both cables are the same type? Both strobes as well? Which are you using?