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Everything posted by holloways

  1. When most get a prescription dive mask the "cheater/magnification" portion of the mask is typically in the very bottom of the mask. (for example, when you wear a pair of drugstore cheaters for magnification, you're looking at the very bottom of your glasses, nearest your nose, for magnification). As a photographer, I am not looking through the bottom of the mask at my viewfinder when I take a photo, I am looking straight ahead. I haven't heard much about where to have the optometrist place the magnification portion in the mask. (I learned of this the hard way. My Rx dive mask is perfect for reading books underwater but does not work for photography)! I still do not know the answer to this. Until I figure out where to locate the magnification section of the mask - I am going to rely on one contact lens for close up work.
  2. Try Bluewater Photo - not too far from you https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/rentals
  3. I insure mine through a special rider on my homeowners insurance (State Farm). Similar to how one might get a rider for your special jewelry. I've used it once for a flood and once for a big scratch on my dome port. I've also had some luck with travel insurance - although there is usually a limit (like $250 - $500 USD) per item. Its under "baggage" reimbursement although you wouldn't think so. Luggage / baggage is not just what you put in the belly of the plane. I once dropped a lens on a dive boat and $500 was covered under my travel insurance policy. The lens cost more than that - but $500 was better than nothing. I was surprised it was covered at all.
  4. CATARACT / SURGERY / DIVING QUESTIONS - Mind if I dust off this topic? My brother (and dive partner) found out (today) that he needs cataract surgery in BOTH eyes. His vision has been decreasing, at an accelerated rate, for a few months. He has been using a singular contact (monovision) to help him see his gauges and camera settings on his LCD screen (no viewfinder)... but because we haven't been diving for 2 years - the one contact approach may not be enough anymore) :-( We have a macro underwater photography trip scheduled mid January - a month from now. He is willing to get cataract surgery asap on one or both eyes - BUT - - How long does he need to wait - post surgery before he can dive (given the pressure) - Will his vision (post surgery) improve over time, or magically all at once? Important to know so he can make the appropriate accommodations for his vision on the trip. - Any suggestions would be helpful to help us figure out the best approach to this first world dilemma. Thanks so much! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  5. I've been doing a bit of research on the subject found that a number of the travel insurance policies (at least in the US) will insure you for COVID-19. While that sounds good, you need to read the details. They will pay (reimburse) IF you get sick with COVID while on your trip or if the fact you have COVID prevents you from going on your trip (you have to actually have the virus. Being scared to travel doesn't count). No doubt there are lots of terms and conditions that have to be met. Some plans are specific to scuba diving trips. I like the fact they will reimburse if weather or illness (even a stuffy nose) prevents you from diving a day(s) on your pre-paid dive trip (with the proper documentation). DiveAssure, for example, even has a specific rider for liveaboard trips. Again - careful with the terms and conditions... The dive specific travelers insurance plans (like DiveAssure) don't seem to have "pre-existing condition waivers" or cover you in case your family gets sick and you have to cancel your trip. Regular travel insurance (not dive specific) will often cover you if you have to cancel due to a sick family member, lose your job, get stuck in jury duty and some, under certain conditions, have "pre-existing condition waivers". Since they are not "scuba diving specific policies) they may or may not reimburse you for cancelled dive days. Careful too when it comes to what they call "extreme sports". Some companies exclude coverage for scuba diving all together, whereas some companies allow diving to 100 feet with a dive master. www.squaremouth.com is a good aggregator of travel insurance in the US. Think of them as the Amazon of travel insurance. I have used Squaremouth numerous times to select the right policy to meet my needs for each particular trip. They even have a "no complaints guarantee" (which I have used) whilst fighting an insurance company for one reason or another. (my guess is that Squaremouth does soooo much business in the US that travel insurance companies don't want to piss them off). I haven't found their prices to be any different that bypassing them and going directly to the insurance company.
  6. I have a Raja Ampat trip in 2022, for which I want to get travel insurance. I've had DAN insurance for 20+ years (their annual plan) and always an additional "trip-specific" policy when I travel overseas. (overkill?) (Trip-specific meaning a separate plan I buy for a 2 week (+/-) day dive trip). I only take a couple trips a year. I'm wondering what travel insurance plans people are getting these days for overseas trips? Do I need a "trip-specific plan" if I have annual coverage? Do you prefer DAN or DiveAssure for the annual plan - or another? Do I need annual coverage at all? What "trip-specific" carriers have you had good luck with? In a perfect world, the plan would include coverage for the following: All the normal stuff (medical, trip cancellation, travel delay, lost bags, repatriation of remains ...) and so forth - but ALSO Cancellation for days you can't dive (for sickness or weather or...) Some sort of gear / camera loss coverage Covid coverage (many seem to have that now - although I'm not sure how good it is) Competitively priced I've had good luck with Generali, RoamRight, and IMG. I have never insured my trip-specific holiday through DAN or DiveAssure but they appear to have interesting coverages for those things I listed above. Thank you!
  7. Thanks TIM! I hope to do all (or the bulk of) the editing whilst on the trip. Once I get home - tough to find the time. Thanks for the specs.
  8. I was about to start a similar thread - when I found this one. Glad to see the info. I currently have Dell laptop for travel but it has a beastly shiny screen which distorts the colors so badly can't really edit while on trips. I run Lightroom Classic and Photoshop at the same time. I've heard MacBook Pro 15" is the way to go but I see now that there are is a Windows option with the Surface. A couple questions, please: 1 - What about size? 13" or 15" ? I'd like to stay small and lighter is always better - but have heard one needs 15" for decent editing. 2 - Both have only one USB port. How do you deal with that? 3 - What specific model should I be looking for? I only use it for travel so I'd like it to be economical - but don't want it to be a slow beast either. 4 - Minimum specs - ie: SSD, RAM, processor, etc... Thanks so much!
  9. Thank you Pavel. This worked perfectly - unfortunately my strobe did not fire. Guess that means the issue is probably the bulb and hence a $200+ repair bill. Next question - would it make sense to cut my losses and buy a new little INON strobe for $350 instead of paying $200 + shipping, insurance, etc to get the Sea and Sea repaired? Is it a problem to mix strobes? INON S-2000 S-TTL: Guide # 20, Recycle time 1.5 sec, Color Temp: 5400K ... also has wireless slave mode (which is a plus for me) Sea and Sea YS D1: Guide # 32, Recycle time 1.9 sec, Color Temp: 5600K What do y'all think?
  10. Patel - this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!!!!! Pavel - you're the best!!!
  11. Im trying to trouble shoot one of my YS D1 strobes that slowly quit firing last weeek. I've already checked all the obvious stuff (batteries, fiber optic cable, flood, water, settings...) The strobe power indicator lights still glows - so I know it is getting power... it is just quit firing (my second strobe works fine) I was told that I could trouble shoot the strobe by manually firing it in the following manner.... I'm not clear on these directions, so please let me know if you know how to properly do this: 1) remove the sync cord cap 2) using a metal object (like butt end of tweezers) push in the center pin 3) at the same time, press two of the 5 pins (which ones???) This is supposed to trigger the strobe. Can anyone provide more insight into this process - and / or other ideas to trouble shoot the strobe? FInally - if it is the "bulb" it will cost upwards of $200 USD to fix. Is it work the price to fix or would I be better off buying a little INON strobe for $350 instead? Thanks so much!
  12. Thank you Draq! THat did the trick. I uninstalled and then reinstalled the firmware update. Worked like a charm. Thank you!
  13. I just bought an Olympus OMD-EM1. The firmware on it, out of the box, is V3.1. The latest firmware available from Olympus is V4.1. When I go to update the firmware, the site tells me I have the latest version and that my camera is up to date (although my camera still says it is V3.1). Any suggestions on how to fix this? PS - will all my customized setting go away when I eventually do figure out how to upgrade? Thank you!
  14. Ultralight double handled tray. Original purchase price $165. For sale $60 + shipping from California (originally offered at $90) Ultralight says it works as a double handle for most digital housings, including Olympus, Canon, Nikon, Sony, Minolta, Casio, Sea and Sea, Fuji, Panasonic and Sea Life. I used it with a Nauticam housing. See photos attached.
  15. For sale, Ultralight double handled tray. Size is 12.5" long by 6.5" tall. Original purchase price $165 USD. For sale for $90+ shipping from San Diego, CA. Part numbers include: UCLS-TR-DHB_BLUE: Blue Handles with ball (2 handles) ULCS-TR-DM: Tray no ridge ULCS-TR-DUP: Tray extender to make double Ultralight brochure says :Digital tray with handle for most digital housings, ie: Olympus, Canon, Nikon, Sony, Minolta, Casio, Sea and Sea, Fujio, Panasonic, Sealife. I used it on a Nauticam housing of a Panasonic camera.
  16. Nauticam Housing for Panasonic. Lumix DMC GX1 16.0 MP 4:3 camera Rugged, machined aluminum housing for Panasonic 4:3, 16 MB camera for $700 USD. Camera (not included) can use a wide range of Panasonic and Olympus lens. This is a great option for intermediate UW photographers. The camera is discontinued but easily available for less than $200 (see link below) making the entire package less than $1000 (quite a deal given the price of housing / cameras these days!) See link for more info on housing http://www.nauticam.com/product2.asp?id=147&sid=13 The GX1 housing is 3 years old. Original purchase price $1200. It has been taken on 4 trips. Moisture alarm doesn’t work, despite sending back to Nauticam for repair (alarm just buzzes so I remove the battery to keep it quiet.) I have service records and user manuals. Nauticam part number Nau-17705 Housing is priced at $700 USD plus shipping from San Diego, CA. Camera can be found for less than $200 - here is just one link of many..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281931540029?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
  17. I have the same question in December 2014 as Nige Wade had in 2011 ... Santa is coming to town and asking if I want a GRAPHIC TABLET for editing in Lightroom / Photoshop. I'm the queen of backscatter - so thought a TABLET might be helpful. Any thoughts about which is a reasonably priced, easy to use tablet for use with Adobe Creative Cloud. I'm not a power use - so easy is good! Thanks so much!
  18. Honestly I didn't even know what an ACR version was - let alone whether or not they were compatible between programs ... but Bill was right. My Lightroom V. 4.4.1" uses ACR V. 7.4 Photoshop Elements V.12 uses ACR V. 8.5.0236 Not sure it those are incompatible - but I can see why they might be. I have calibrated all my monitors to sRGB and set sRGB to the color space for both programs. I'm still not able to open a photo, from native RAW in Lightroom, into RAW when I "open in" PS Elements (it opens in JPEG). This is way over my head - but I appreciate you sticking with me. Any other suggestions? PS.... ADAM - the picture I attached is of Nadya with the sting ray ( from Alex Mustard's Digital Madness Week this September). I tried the spot remover in lightroom - but I have SO many spots - that I need something more to fix them (unless I'm doing something wrong). Elements works a lot better.
  19. Thanks for the reply Bill! I REALLY appreciate it. Sounds like a dumb questions - but how does one check that the ACR version is the correct one? Someone else suggested that the issue had to do with the image being in its native RAW format in Lightroom when I tried to bring it across to PS Elements. They suggested saving the image a PNG before trying to bring the image into PS Elements. I have tried saving as a TIFF and PSD - but not a PNG. So very complicated for a novice like me.... thoughts?
  20. My images change color when I go from Lightroom to Photoshop Elements and then back to Lightroom. Very frustrating - what's up??? HOW DO I KEEP THE COLOR CONSISTENT when I go from Lightroom to PS Elements????? I manage my raw files in Lightroom and do most of my editing there. If an image has a lot of scatter I make ONLY those fixes in PS Element. When I'm done with the back scatter I save the file in PS Elements and it then magically appears back in Lightroom. Very slick. Problem is that by the time the photo gets back into Lightroom the colors have changed (sometimes significantly). Its particularly bad with the blues (which turn purple). I've tried a number of things, including: -Setting the preferences in Lightroom so that the external editor has both a TIFF or PSD file format (I have tried both formats) -Making sure both software programs are using the same color space at the same time (I've tried both sRGB and ProPhotoRGB) -I've set Lightroom's external editor bit depth to 8-bit depth to align with PS Elements 8-bit depth I'm at a loss! Any suggestions? PS - the RAW editor in PS Elements does not come up when I pull my RAW images from Lightroom into PS Elements. Does that provide a clue? See photo attached.... I made no color changes between the two images. The difference is before and after using Photoshop Elements as the external editor. The more purple photo has been edited (for scatter only) in PS Elements. This is what it looks like when it comes back
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