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Everything posted by holloways

  1. Thanks TIM! I hope to do all (or the bulk of) the editing whilst on the trip. Once I get home - tough to find the time. Thanks for the specs.
  2. I was about to start a similar thread - when I found this one. Glad to see the info. I currently have Dell laptop for travel but it has a beastly shiny screen which distorts the colors so badly can't really edit while on trips. I run Lightroom Classic and Photoshop at the same time. I've heard MacBook Pro 15" is the way to go but I see now that there are is a Windows option with the Surface. A couple questions, please: 1 - What about size? 13" or 15" ? I'd like to stay small and lighter is always better - but have heard one needs 15" for decent editing. 2 - Both have only one USB port. How do you deal with that? 3 - What specific model should I be looking for? I only use it for travel so I'd like it to be economical - but don't want it to be a slow beast either. 4 - Minimum specs - ie: SSD, RAM, processor, etc... Thanks so much!
  3. Thank you Pavel. This worked perfectly - unfortunately my strobe did not fire. Guess that means the issue is probably the bulb and hence a $200+ repair bill. Next question - would it make sense to cut my losses and buy a new little INON strobe for $350 instead of paying $200 + shipping, insurance, etc to get the Sea and Sea repaired? Is it a problem to mix strobes? INON S-2000 S-TTL: Guide # 20, Recycle time 1.5 sec, Color Temp: 5400K ... also has wireless slave mode (which is a plus for me) Sea and Sea YS D1: Guide # 32, Recycle time 1.9 sec, Color Temp: 5600K What do y'all think?
  4. Patel - this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!!!!! Pavel - you're the best!!!
  5. Im trying to trouble shoot one of my YS D1 strobes that slowly quit firing last weeek. I've already checked all the obvious stuff (batteries, fiber optic cable, flood, water, settings...) The strobe power indicator lights still glows - so I know it is getting power... it is just quit firing (my second strobe works fine) I was told that I could trouble shoot the strobe by manually firing it in the following manner.... I'm not clear on these directions, so please let me know if you know how to properly do this: 1) remove the sync cord cap 2) using a metal object (like butt end of tweezers) push in the center pin 3) at the same time, press two of the 5 pins (which ones???) This is supposed to trigger the strobe. Can anyone provide more insight into this process - and / or other ideas to trouble shoot the strobe? FInally - if it is the "bulb" it will cost upwards of $200 USD to fix. Is it work the price to fix or would I be better off buying a little INON strobe for $350 instead? Thanks so much!
  6. Thank you Draq! THat did the trick. I uninstalled and then reinstalled the firmware update. Worked like a charm. Thank you!
  7. I just bought an Olympus OMD-EM1. The firmware on it, out of the box, is V3.1. The latest firmware available from Olympus is V4.1. When I go to update the firmware, the site tells me I have the latest version and that my camera is up to date (although my camera still says it is V3.1). Any suggestions on how to fix this? PS - will all my customized setting go away when I eventually do figure out how to upgrade? Thank you!
  8. Ultralight double handled tray. Original purchase price $165. For sale $60 + shipping from California (originally offered at $90) Ultralight says it works as a double handle for most digital housings, including Olympus, Canon, Nikon, Sony, Minolta, Casio, Sea and Sea, Fuji, Panasonic and Sea Life. I used it with a Nauticam housing. See photos attached.
  9. For sale, Ultralight double handled tray. Size is 12.5" long by 6.5" tall. Original purchase price $165 USD. For sale for $90+ shipping from San Diego, CA. Part numbers include: UCLS-TR-DHB_BLUE: Blue Handles with ball (2 handles) ULCS-TR-DM: Tray no ridge ULCS-TR-DUP: Tray extender to make double Ultralight brochure says :Digital tray with handle for most digital housings, ie: Olympus, Canon, Nikon, Sony, Minolta, Casio, Sea and Sea, Fujio, Panasonic, Sealife. I used it on a Nauticam housing of a Panasonic camera.
  10. Nauticam Housing for Panasonic. Lumix DMC GX1 16.0 MP 4:3 camera Rugged, machined aluminum housing for Panasonic 4:3, 16 MB camera for $700 USD. Camera (not included) can use a wide range of Panasonic and Olympus lens. This is a great option for intermediate UW photographers. The camera is discontinued but easily available for less than $200 (see link below) making the entire package less than $1000 (quite a deal given the price of housing / cameras these days!) See link for more info on housing http://www.nauticam.com/product2.asp?id=147&sid=13 The GX1 housing is 3 years old. Original purchase price $1200. It has been taken on 4 trips. Moisture alarm doesn’t work, despite sending back to Nauticam for repair (alarm just buzzes so I remove the battery to keep it quiet.) I have service records and user manuals. Nauticam part number Nau-17705 Housing is priced at $700 USD plus shipping from San Diego, CA. Camera can be found for less than $200 - here is just one link of many..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281931540029?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
  11. I have the same question in December 2014 as Nige Wade had in 2011 ... Santa is coming to town and asking if I want a GRAPHIC TABLET for editing in Lightroom / Photoshop. I'm the queen of backscatter - so thought a TABLET might be helpful. Any thoughts about which is a reasonably priced, easy to use tablet for use with Adobe Creative Cloud. I'm not a power use - so easy is good! Thanks so much!
  12. Honestly I didn't even know what an ACR version was - let alone whether or not they were compatible between programs ... but Bill was right. My Lightroom V. 4.4.1" uses ACR V. 7.4 Photoshop Elements V.12 uses ACR V. 8.5.0236 Not sure it those are incompatible - but I can see why they might be. I have calibrated all my monitors to sRGB and set sRGB to the color space for both programs. I'm still not able to open a photo, from native RAW in Lightroom, into RAW when I "open in" PS Elements (it opens in JPEG). This is way over my head - but I appreciate you sticking with me. Any other suggestions? PS.... ADAM - the picture I attached is of Nadya with the sting ray ( from Alex Mustard's Digital Madness Week this September). I tried the spot remover in lightroom - but I have SO many spots - that I need something more to fix them (unless I'm doing something wrong). Elements works a lot better.
  13. Thanks for the reply Bill! I REALLY appreciate it. Sounds like a dumb questions - but how does one check that the ACR version is the correct one? Someone else suggested that the issue had to do with the image being in its native RAW format in Lightroom when I tried to bring it across to PS Elements. They suggested saving the image a PNG before trying to bring the image into PS Elements. I have tried saving as a TIFF and PSD - but not a PNG. So very complicated for a novice like me.... thoughts?
  14. My images change color when I go from Lightroom to Photoshop Elements and then back to Lightroom. Very frustrating - what's up??? HOW DO I KEEP THE COLOR CONSISTENT when I go from Lightroom to PS Elements????? I manage my raw files in Lightroom and do most of my editing there. If an image has a lot of scatter I make ONLY those fixes in PS Element. When I'm done with the back scatter I save the file in PS Elements and it then magically appears back in Lightroom. Very slick. Problem is that by the time the photo gets back into Lightroom the colors have changed (sometimes significantly). Its particularly bad with the blues (which turn purple). I've tried a number of things, including: -Setting the preferences in Lightroom so that the external editor has both a TIFF or PSD file format (I have tried both formats) -Making sure both software programs are using the same color space at the same time (I've tried both sRGB and ProPhotoRGB) -I've set Lightroom's external editor bit depth to 8-bit depth to align with PS Elements 8-bit depth I'm at a loss! Any suggestions? PS - the RAW editor in PS Elements does not come up when I pull my RAW images from Lightroom into PS Elements. Does that provide a clue? See photo attached.... I made no color changes between the two images. The difference is before and after using Photoshop Elements as the external editor. The more purple photo has been edited (for scatter only) in PS Elements. This is what it looks like when it comes back
  15. Thanks for the info... Sounds like I need to buy a device. No "eyeballing it" Spyder or colormunki ? There seems to be quite a wide range in price - $80-$600 USD at B&H. Which model do you recommend?
  16. Is there an inexpensive yet accurate way of calibrating color on multiple monitors? The color on my laptop is so messed up that I really hesitate doing any post processing in the field. When I bring the images home, and view them on my desktop, it is obvious the color on the image processed on my laptop, is way off. When I print the image on my home printer - or even - on a commercial printer - I get yet another color permutation. Any suggestions? Can I rent a device? Is there a DIY method? ??? How to I calibrate color on multiple monitors and printers without spending a lot of money :-)
  17. I have a GX1 Nauticam housing. GREAT, compact, tough. Nice thing about this system is that I can reuse all the lenses, etc. I'm considering upgrading - but still on the fence. Just had it cleaned and serviced since returning from Lembeh (kind of gritty there). Hasn't been wet since. What all do you need?
  18. I'm looking for an inexpensive, compact sized, camera or camera/housing combo, SPECIFICALLY for shooting whilst snorkeling with whale sharks, dolphins on an upcoming liveaboard trip to Mexico. I already have a UW M4/3 set up with 2 strobes, nauticam housing, including a 7-14 lens and dome port - BUT I want a small, cheapie device for 2 days of snorkeling. I don't really want to lug my M4/3 set up around for 2 days of snorkeling. Any suggestions? REQUIREMENTS: Lightweight, small, wide angle, waterproof, inexpensive ($200 USD +/-) NICE TO HAVEs (but not requirements): RAW, 130 foot +, built in flash, video Maybe the best idea is to use my M4/3 set up and buying a new little camera is not advisable/necessary. Ideas and opinions welcomed. Thanks so much!!!
  19. Item sold. Sorry - it was a good deal.
  20. Still Available - $400 (firm) No mounting kit - just the Sola 1200, case and charger. Buy your own mounting kit (to match your rig) for $15-$25.
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