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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. I've been had.... here are a few more with the 18-70 craig
  2. James I wish there was one there !!!, No so lucky in the RedSea, Its just one of those Shapes and textures kind of shots.... just playing around.. I hope to get some critters when i goto Sipadan Kapalai and Mabul next year.. B) thanks craig
  3. Hello All Ok I've used the 18-70 with a +4 with great results.. I just wanted to try it to see if it worked and it did, i was quite pleased actually. Dont shoot me down in flames lads for using a KIT lens will you. take a look, these are a couple of shots from my very first outing with the D70 back in august. D70 with 18-70 iwith +4 in DX-70 with Dual Sb105's Compact Dome port with 40 extension ring. regards craig
  4. Well, i didn't think it would really happen.. as the difference in price between the Nikon D70 & D50 is not really worth the worry. although there is a larger $£ between 350D & 20D. its not a major issue if your considering entering into this "pocket emptying" hobby. A thought i'd always had was, if that extra little £$ is an issue to you and you had to opt for a lowest end of the market, then paying out for a £1200/$2000 housing was not on your list of TO GET's for sure, not when you start to add those extra few thousand bucks for all the other clap trap we need. well i'm wrong, it seems that Sea & Sea also have jumped up at the chance to cater for the consumer lower end cameras.. Will it all end in tears....WHO KNOW'S The rate the big boys are banging out camera's at the moment, there will be a whole new range of toys around next year..... YET AGAIN. I AWAIT THE NEW " D200 " "D90" what ever it will be when its born. happy days craig NIK V's were so simple.......... Ah yeh, please Mr Nikon if you ever read this forum, Can you try and make cameras so that they fit into our exsisting housings please.. Here's an idea, they should start to make camera's like our PC's, a stanard case (body) and then we can choose the Motherboard & internal hardware (camera gubbins) ,CPU which would be our (CCD) at what Pixel depth we choose. then when we get sick of it, take out the CPU (CCD) when it becomes old and replace with nice new one... they could make great badges and slogan's as well like NIKON / CANON INSIDE with fancy little stickers.....like CENTRINO ..& ATHLON BARTON... On second thoughts ....... its better left alone....
  5. Thanks everyone. I dont need a AF-S lens, Orangs are not the fastest things on the planet are they.. i've the 18-70 AF-S and plan on getting the 80-400 that will cover the whole range just fine for land use. Reviews are difficult things to judge... If the person posting is used to spending $4000 on a 2.8 300mm or larger, it's obvious that a cheap little $1000 lens is not going to live up to the might of its $$$ brothers. It is nice to know that that you guys are using them and are completely happy. All i'm really bothered about is getting nice sharp images, the VR will be a bonus as its going to be dark in the jungle & i cant be bothered with tripods, I'll take my trusty mono.. 80-400 VR it is then thanks Craig
  6. HI all. Please forgive this off topic (underwater) question. I'm going to borneo next year to visit some orangutans in Sabah, then onto Kapalai/Sipadan/Mabul. I'm fine for underwater equipment but i'm looking for a nice telezoomer to use with my D70 The nikkor 80-400VR is my perfered choice of equipment, however there are lots of mixed reviews on the net regarding its SLOW focusing.. Does anyone on list have one they may like to comment on... I read that its like most older lenses that use camera motor to drive focus, so this leaving the lens somewhat slow. I have a nikkor 60mm Micro and it seems to me that this could be the same system, but i don't really class that as SLOW, yeh compared to AF-S but otherwise it's fine to me. Thanks as always Craig
  7. Hi all So what zoom ring have you found to fit this lens ? I'm a Sea & Sea user, at the moment they have not got anything in production to my knowledge. regards Craig
  8. Hi I've My Very Little Used, as NEW and Boxed with all parts and paperwork Sea & Sea NX-80 Housing For the Nikon F-80 £600 Also the camera is forsale complete with MB10 Grip £170 please email me off list Craig
  9. Hi everyone thanks for all the input you have given I've now settled on 2 Nights in Sepilok - Reserve and Orang sanct. 8 Nights in Kapalai water village, diving Mabul , kapalai, Sipadan. I love my Macro life, so it sounds the place for me and my camera , as long as there is a selection of Amphiprion species around this will complete my quest to Find nemo !!! thanks again. its been a hard decision to make trying to nail it down to a couple of flights, i really want to visit sipadan, and like the sound of Lankayan, but i cant get to sipadan from there. and i dont want to keep jetting around sabah as i need to relax at some point.... B)
  10. Hi All I'm off to Borneo next year for the first time, I currently own a nikkor 60mm Micro. Just wanted your views on what you found best in this location. my mind is telling me that i should be taking a 105mm Been looking at getting the Sigma 105mm F2.8 as its cheap as chips, and the reviews are excellent... you views would be interesting as there is some real macro shooting to be done around Kapalai and Mabul regards craig
  11. Hi everyone i'm looking for some help getting a group outing together for early next year to malaysia have a few destinations is mind and would like you thoughts on them please 1. visit to Sipadan stopping at kapali or mabul (your thoughts please) 2. Visit to lankayan island then a night and day at the Orang's in sabah. Is Sipadan really worth the time and effort to get to it..????? or should i stay clear of this area... kind regards craig nelson
  12. Hello all just to add my comments and findings on this subject. I personally use 512MB cards. reasons It takes a hell of a long time to download 1GB worth of images. 1GB worth of images is a lot to lose if the card goes down on , i've had a few various brands like PQI & Sandisk Fail on me mid flow, causing a total loss of everything. So now i use 512MB 66x units, i get 88 RAW images from my D70. more than enough for one dive for me. i carry 4 of these items around and split the images between these cards, so all four cannot fail at once, so a least i'll have some images should i get another failed CF card. I have also 1GB Sandisk Ultra II's which are excellent. just my views on it.... i'd hate to lose a 2GB Card full of images :-(( craig
  13. HI everyone could anybody out there who maybe using this lens please help. I'm just trying to aquire a zoom gear that would be suitable for using with the new sigma 10-20mm i know i can get a sigma 15-30mm zoom gear for my housing. Could you do me a big favour and post up or email me direct the actual barrel diameter of the zoom ring on the 15-30mm lens. I know that the sigma 10-20mm is 76mm from previous post's on the list. help please kind regards craig
  14. Hi Andre I rekon you should be able to use this len's without a Close up filter at all. I'm not a Subal user, but my dome por(sea & sea) is about the approx diameter of the subal unit's and i can get the nikkor 18-70mm to work without. Generally if the lens will focus at less than 12" then it should work fine, as most prime len's on our old 35mm on had about the same minimum focusing distance than the sigma. I'm not a big fan of Close up filters anyhow, as i really cant see why we pay out for a really top class item of glass (lens) and then go and stick a cheap filter on the front of it destroying the optical quality that we have just purchased. Although i have heard in some case's that dio's can actually serve to improve image quality. i just can't get my head around it... Please let me know how you get on with this len's as i'm about to order one myself, but its just the focus gear that is holding me back, if the canon item appears to work thats great, but please, let us know regards craig
  15. Ok final image is Macro, taken 1:1 lens in manual focus F32 1/160 sec standing off about 7" the quality seems dam fine to me you can pick out detail in the paint even. hope this helps those thinking of a 2x tele and quality issues regards craig
  16. Hi Guys i've just completed a few test's for you with my 60mm and kenko 2x pro300 tele please excuse me for the subject matter, on that front this is a wonderful item my wife purchased for me, made from scrap bits of metal, its a photographer and clownfish. ok to size it , the whole scene is approx 10" long, the little clown fish is about 2cm length inside his anemone first image: was shot Wide open at F2.8 1/160 distance approx 3 to 4ft for some reason the 2 stop loss is over the entire range of the lens, you can actually get it to down to F2.8 !!, why ? some might explain. you can see DOF is quite shallow, the photographer figure is approx 4.5 inches from the clown, the lens cap just gives scale. Second image: Same but shot a F32 1/160 distance 3 to 4ft DOF is greatly increased Third image is F32 1/160 shot from <1ft away final image is in next post as image size is exceeded in this post
  17. To cover the last question by Bluepixel Yes i have the same issue to remove the ports from my Sea & Sea Rigs, Dont worry it shows they are sealed !!! well !!!. an extension ring is not a extension TUBE. the ring is simply a metal spacer that fits between the housing and you port to extend its enitre length. regards craig
  18. Hi Arnon & Tim ok to answer your quetsions regarding the fitting of this lens. I use a Kenko Pro 300 2x DX teleconverter, the body length on this item is approx 43mm long. Your quite correct Arnon about some of the Nikon Units, My kenko unit is superb I knew that i had at least 15mm of space to play with using my setup which is a DX-70 housing Compact Port base and Small Port (sea & sea) so i just ordered the 40mm extension ring, this gave me about 55mm to play with, and the teleconverter is only 43mm so lots of scope. As for you Arnon, you going to have to do some simple measuring of your chosen teleconverter and select the ikelite port applicable for that. the Nikon teleconverters are a little longer which i chose not to purchase for the simple reason of, for the amount of time i actually use this setup, i would have had to purchase yet another port as the length exceeded my combination. Tim, your more than welcome to pop over my place and try out this 2x teleconverter if your ever around Cheadle Staffordshire. you simply will need a extension ring that will cover the length of your chosen teleconverter. regards all craig
  19. Hi james yeh thanks some of this does make a lot of sense and l earning is taking place your more than likely have much more expeirence shooting than i do james. point totally agreed about light loss and strobe power, you just gota get your strobes that much closer when using the 2x teleconverter or up the ISO little, which i never did when using trannies. so far with my D70 i have found that i'm having to put my SB-105's on 1/16 power at F16 to get an exposure that is not Blown away. however my strobe placement is extremely close, if i pulled them back about 1ft then obviously more UMPH is needed As you know the D70 is 200 ISO ,so we could just up that to say 400 if we need that extra bit of light, that would gain us back 1 stop of light , so the loss is not so great. but increasing ISO can remove a little quality, at the moment i cant really see any difference in the 200 & 400 setting on my D70, its only very slight. I normally use a focusing light as well james when ive used the 2x tele-converter i've never really had an issue with that. agreed that the viewfinder image is darker, but hey its digital, just fire your shot and take a look at the screen, instant learning. My Main reason for using the 2x tele which i did'nt list is that it saves me carrying another lens and another port when out on a trip. i just carry a extension ring, which saves all that extra hassle of luggage on the trip so weight is kept to a minimum, the 60mm micro on a 1.5x factor body comes out quite nice enough for me anyhow. hope all these pionts have helped blue pixel out regards all craig
  20. Hey well tim your dam 20 mins up the road from me......... no worries on the advice all are welcome regards craig
  21. Hi all Again sound like someone might have an issue with BACKFOCUS to me, get your 60mm checkout ok to comment on whats been said Loss of image quality..... Not valid, I cannot see any loss in image quality using my 2x tele (obviously you need a good one) Light loss...... for again this is not a vailid subjec. why would i want to shoot macro with an aperture of F2.8 ?, the DOF is so shallow at this setting that most of the images would be soft anyhow. When shooting macro, we need max DOF to ensure that all our subject is in focus due to the very close ranges we are shooting and long lenses we are using. personally i've never shot anything less than F11 on my 60mm. usually i'd shoot 16 or 22 , maybe 11 if i want to lose some of the background. so the light loss of a teleconverter is not valid when using a macro lens. take a look at these shots , taken with my F80 and 2x tele and 60mm. scanned i cant see any loss, only digitizing quality compared to the trannies. regards all craig now i know they are not as close as i would have liked but it was as close as i could get to the reef animals on this occasion
  22. Hi I second Alex's choice I personally use a 2x tele and 60mm micro, as suggested you need a port extension ring. its very nice, come out at 180mm on the D70, allows that little more stand off from the critter or filling the frame if you can get closer. regards craig
  23. HI there ! about these strobes there are lots on the market for use, you need something that is pre-flash compatible for a start. and allows you optical link up. ok preflash is the little bursts of light that fire from your flash on the camera prior to it actually firing the main exposing flash output. optical link is simply a fibre optic cable that passes light to the strobes trigger sensor from your camera. as i say lots around just check for these specs as for the ys25, nice little unit but it just might be that for you little, when choosing a strobe its wise to try and get as much power output and beam angle for you cash. taking into account your setup the following would be just fine Ikelite DS50 / DS125 Inon D2000 Sea & Sea ys90 auto or you can possibly turn off pre-flash on your camera and set the flash to slave , then just about any strobe will do the job as long as there is a optical link. hope this help a little. regards craig
  24. Hello Mike This might be of no help to you but i'll pass on my advice. I've found whilst travelling around at home and abroad on assignments, that Hard case's aren't always the best option. My reasoning for this is. If at all possible i like to keep my photographic gear where i can see it and know that it not being miss treated by some heavy handed baggage handler. I've seen on too many occasions, my camera gear packed into a Pelicase being abused by baggage handlers dispite Fragile warning stickers. in some instance's its actually fell of the belt whilst going up the ramp to the aircraft !!!! to my horror. yes the contents were ok which proves that hard case's withstand a hit, but i'm not sure what would have happen had anything really fragile like a Lens been in there. if you've ever watched the guys at work handling baggage, they aren't the most gentle of people. I understand this as they often don't have the time to be. so what i now do it pack all my gear into soft baggage and take it with me into the aircraft. that way i know its safe. I generally manage to get into the cabin Housing (with camera body inside) Flash Guns 2x Sb-105's Dome Port & macro ports Spare camera body & 3 or 4 lenses. batteries and chargers laptop the rest of the no distructable items go in my hold luggage only retaining retaining just enough to complete the job should my hold luggage go missing, (sync cord) & Minimum Strobe arm. I pack all my gear into Lowepro Baggage, the Nova 5 Series is ideal for a housing complete with its dome attached, as i never travel alone i come to an agreement with the other person to use my second item of cabin luggage as there own, Usually this is the a rucksac type camera bag. So far i've never had a problem at all, Here in the Uk we have a limit on cabin baggage of 5Kg. normally the Check In staff rarely weigh this, as the bags look small enough so they dont bother. however, i always carry plastic carrier bags, just in case i'm a little over, you can always get the checkin people to agree to spliting bags up so that they are within the accepted allowance. at times even this will not do, but i still have a trick up my sleeve that i use on them. ask to speak to the supervisor or the airline rep, Explain the situtaion and the basically blind them with a little science. like Ok , whats stopping me now going into the DUTY FREE or shops and Buying at least 3-4ltrs of Alcoholic drinks, Lots of electronic items and anything else thats available whilst you sit in departure ? then explain the weight of that to them. 1 ltr of water weighs 1KG forget all the dissovled sugar making is more dense !! plus the weight of the glass that its contained in. x this by 3 bottles, that's about 6Kg's in drink i could carry as well not to mention all the other goodies i then promise them that i will not buy any Bottled alcohol... this usually arrest's the problem dead in its tracks, and i walk away a happy man !!! Oh and always be extremely polite to them. I always like to know that all my camera gear is safe and sound and is enjoying the flight just as much as I am, and not sitting inside the hold feeling very unwell. Look after your gear & it will look after you. regards Craig
  25. Hi All again just ref my posting, i have just looked at getting this lens in the UK and its £349.00 plus £8 shipping from www.warehouseexpress.com the deal from ebay isn't that good really i think i'd rather pay a little more and have the item locally (as Such) regards craig
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