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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. Hi I use a UK Mini Q40 or 2x on the strobes, depends on what i'm shooting. the beam is quite narrow and has punch not sure where your based or if you can get your hands on one. www.uwkinetics.com if you need help give me shout i could mail you one out if you have a paypal account for payment. regards craig
  2. Hi Everyone just thought i'd let you all know that the sigma 10-20mm is now available through ebay (hong Kong) I buy most of my photographic equipment from the below seller and they are most trust worthy. and a bargain price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...DME:B:FSEL:US:1 regards all craig
  3. you were just trying to get the addled shop keeper going. I rekon that most just won't bother with the D50 housing except ike, as all his housings are made from basically the same plug and its a matter of routing the controls then. there will be somthing else out next month anyway... a D50s or somthing like that these DSLR's are getting like our PC's out of date in a few weeks !!!! well not so quick the price difference between the D50 & D70 isn't much. if that price difference is a major issue for the customer, they will have a heart attack when they come to purchase their housing. those customers best go for what Alex suggested A freezer bag and zip tie Just my thoughts on it. craig I remember in the old days of film, there were a lot of budget slr's on the market from Canon & Nikon EOS500 EOS300 Nikon F70 F50..... what happen there, we'll the housings were made, the cameras got blown out by newer models leaving surplus housings knocking around and companies out of pocket. we still have a Canon Eos 300n housing is our shop, it was left behind in the rush of new Models. I suspect that alot of companies have learned the hard lesson and may well be cautious in the future. for top end camera's like the D2x YES, but when we are taking about £150 between a D50 & D70, whats the point. lets say......... 4x ultralight ball clamps....... thats all... why bother ?
  4. Hi James I suspect that the method used was as followed 1. have the camera in AF mode, focus to your desired distance 2. once focused, switch the camera to Manual Focus. assuming that nexus covered the focus mode selector switch this lock focus distance this is a method i've used before if i did'nt have a focusing ring available for manual mode. 3.Adjust the custom settings on the D100 so that the shutter button only activates the Shutter and not Autofocus i've tryed this method on my nikon F80 and it works just fine. regards craig n
  5. Hi All just too add my comments to this thread. Currently with my Sea & Sea housing i access the AE/L AE/F button with my right hand thumb whilst holding the hand grips. its very easy on this housing as sea & sea extended the control to exit on the right hand side of the housing with a lever so you simply just hold it up with your thumb. The mode of the button can be changed as james suggested those modes are listed below 1. Exposure & Focus lock when button is pressed and kept pressed 2. Exposure Lock when button is pressed 3. Exposure Lock and stays locked when button is pressed and realeased. I often use this function whilst having the camera is Aperture Priority locking the exposure for the higher midtones. this hopefully will save time messing about when the unexpected swims past. 4. Auto Focus On/Activate. these frees up the shutton button from autofocus and just simply allows it to realease the shutter This is the method that james was suggesting "i Think" you just focus the camera to your set distance using this button and then fire away with the shutter. you might find that the camera needs to be in AF-C whilst trying this method as you can fire the shutter even when the camera is thinking its not in focus in this mode. I've just completed a test using this method and it works fine, you can lock your focus at a preset distance using the AE/L button , select AF-C as the Focus Mode and fire away with your shutter.. If the camera is in AF-S it will only fire the shutter when it thinks your in-focus, which i suppose could still be quite handy, However I rekon the AF-C using a 10.5mm or 15mm FE preset would work just fine. regards craig
  6. Hi again, just read a little information on it for you according to ikelite you may need to cover up the 4 small pins on the hotshoe cable in your housing to get the strobe to fire. leave the main larger central one free to connect and try it again, you should be able to fire the strobe in MANUAL only. regards craig the pins should be arranged like this O- leave this one free to connect o o o o --- cover these four with insulation tape
  7. Hi I'm not a canon man however you might wel find that the strobe will not fire due to the pin connections on the hotshoe. check Ike's site for information, if it were nikon i could help you more, i'm sure however it will be the same issue that nikon user have if all pins are connected on the hotshoe. you really dont want to pop up the internal flash either , as this defeats the object of using an external gun really. not only do external gun yeald more power , they also help us remove our arch enemy "backscatter" along with lots of other plus pionts. regards craig
  8. Hi James yep i'm in total agreement on that, the camera just goes mad, i'm not 100% sure on the circuit for a focus light but whatever the voltage travelling down the SP can only be used as a trigger on a circuit as it extremely low voltage, As SP becomes live when we half depress the shutter or use to on our old systems personally i think its just a matter of modding a circuit to cope with whatever nikon is throwing down the SP line at this time. As for Sea & Sea they kindly provided the bulkhead in the Dx-70, its not wired but its there , so sometime in the future it may be of some use. I'm already thinking of Modding this bulkhead into another 5 pin nikonos unit so that i can run 2x single cables from the dx-70. The thread and socket size is as per normal 5 pin socket , it just has no internals. but that would be very easy to sort out. and with only 2 pins connected which are x and ground , no worries on the front of strobes triggering. regards craig
  9. HI Tom I'm not sure if Sea & Sea rep's are technical people but here is what i know about it ok firstly only 2 wires are connected on the D70 housing hotshoe that is X contact and ground. when we press the shutter these short out and fire the strobe. (simply) now then on the NX80 housing all 5 pins are connected on the hotshoe now for a shutter activated focus light to work firstly is must have some wiring, and there is NONE in the DX70 we take the small current that flows on the SP line of the hotshoe (if you hold the hotshoe on the DX70 with the cable at the bottom its the top left hand one) we can use this signal voltage to make our focus light circuit when we half depress the shutter button the signal is produced down this line if you test the connection port of the focus light on the NX80 its wired as i say to this terminal on the NX80 bulkhead. so therefore it works now then on the DX70 housing we only have 2 pins, X and ground, if we connect SP up at all we cannot get the D70 or D70s to fire a manual strobe at all. see ikelites testing on this , we usually have to cover the SP with tape or use only a 4 connector core cable. so if the shutter activated focus light gets it signal down the SP line and its not connected up the DX70 housing then it simply will not work, even if it were connected it still would'nt work as we dont use SP on the hotshoe the protocols have changed for signal transmitted down the SP line with the introduction of DTTL and ITTL, this is why we are having so much trouble shooting TTL. so i doubt it if nikon had change the signal as it would bugger up all the user of the SB600 & Sb800 flash guns and nikon would have to market a new gun for the D70s so if you tested you camera on a NX housing you may well find that the shutter focus light functions , but you might well find that it will not fire a strobe.. i tested my NX80 and it was exactly this, only when i covered up the SP line did it fire a strobe. thats my understanding of this , please read http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/info/tech/nikttl.html for more information i hope this helps you more regards craig
  10. Hi Again everyone I've done a little more testing on the PS Plug in i last talked about in a previous post Fred Miranda's DRI Pro Again firstly forgive me for the lack of Underwater images again, but the essence remains the same, and that was how to increase the Dynamic range of our DSLR's so that we capture what we used to capture on slide film (sunbursts seem to be a popular piont of discussion). The Original Posting was born out of my frustrations with my first attempt with my D70, coming from a Slide film background it was not a straight forward transition onto a DSLR. please read my previous post's for information on that. Anyhow to move on with this post. After getting my hands on this plug in and running an initial test i was very please with the results (see my last posting). It gave a much more natural looking image exposure more accustomed to what i'm used to seeing when shoot other than digital. I then began to ponder on the DRI plug-in ability to cope with what we would normally shoot underwater "CFWA" balanced light shots. As we all know there are generally 2 sets of highlights within the exposure of such typical images, being The background water near the surface or the sunball Our Subject cast with light from our strobes. (not exactly hightlights) So i decided to run a couple of test's, AGAIN sorry but these are in my garden. Settings on the D70 were as follows RAW Aperture Priority Mode setting F22 1/500 sec Internal Flash on the D70 was used on this occasion ISO 200 NORMAL SETTINGS in the menu I metered the sky/sun and locked the exposure using the lock button pulled back to composed the image and popped out the internal flash resulting in the image below. Shot from as close as i could get using the Nikkor 18-70mm and of course using F22 i had to be as close as the lens would allow to light the subject with the internal flash. I did'nt know how the D70 would deal with this image as the sun is very prominent i expected a really awful result, but i was pleasantly surprised. using the HIGHLIGHTS checker on the 70 it only showed WHITE SPIKES in the very centre of the SUN SO with that image i began to process using firstly Nikon Capture to get my image of the Card exactly as i intended it to be. (one thing that bugs me with PS RAW is that it always tries it dam hardest to bugger up my exposure as i load the image into it, Suggestions on that one please would be welcome). So i then saved this image with no changes as a JPEG file. Step 2 Was to take the RAW image again and to create a Exposure Based on the Midtones and Shadows of the image, this completely blows out your highlights but dont worry !!!!!. Then I ran the 2 images into DRI pro and it came out with this Not a bad result in my opinion a little halo exists around the trees at the back but its not too noticeable. But the Midtones which where underexposed in the original image now have much more detail. The Subject Itself has been slightly flattened but is still acceptable too me. I'm now much happier to know that My Hard Earned cash has not gone to waste on my D70 & Housing and it can produce some very very nice results as the boys and girls on this list have been posting. I was starting to think that my camera was faulty or do all bad workman blame their tools.... mmmm i remember when i first got my MMIIex Ys60 combo, It was AWFUL, RUBBISH..... until i learnt THE ART & Its limits then it became such a wonderful tool regards to everyone Craig
  11. HI tom too add you might find that its the wiring on the NX80 housing more than the d70s i know that there are only 2 pins wired on the dx-70 housing hotshoe, so it will not be connected properly in the circuit on this housing. however the NX80 housing has more pins wired, that why it might just work. not 100% but i'm sure that would have somthing to do with it craig forgive if i'm miles out with it
  12. To add.... Hi Mark I've never tryed to use any functions directly provided with photoshop with regards too increasing DR. My example shots where taken at 9.15pm using Iso 400 Aperture Priority Hand holding the camera. i made one RAW exposure, then made 2 x Tiff files from that exposure as discribed then converted the finished Tiff to a Jpeg for the post. with fred's DRI Pro you can set the amount of radius blending or let it work the exposure out itself which i've found to be 95% to my taste. I've tryed it with balanced light exposures as well using flash "obviously" making my exposure for the highlights and balancing with the flash. i found that it still worked, creating very nice images with an extremely wide dynamic range. the underwater testing is yet to be completed so will post later next week. craig
  13. Hi Guys ok firstly , you dont need a tripod, just a RAW image. this is just a discription by fred. i shot the first image metering for the sky. then processed it in PS to make myself 2 images , As shown then DRI them for advanced PS user's , i guess its already in the package however for an idiot like me i'd have to have someone to do it for me :-(( i've tryed it on most of my last weeks Bag of shots which most of them were blown out at the surface but with good balanced fill in. i can see that its going to work just fine, as its user tweakable. i'll test this somemore next week underwater at post the results. regards craig
  14. Hi All This post is just to follow up my last one regarding Exposure issues and white spikes with my D70 after the suggestions on the previous post, i've done some hard testing and now i'm getting to grips with the lack of Dynamic Range in DSLR's After suggestions of taking a look at www.fredmiranda.com i've purchased the DRI Pro plug in for CS2. This little plug in as it say's gives a welcomed tool to increase the DR of your camera when we try to capture difficult lighting situations which the camera just cannot capture without creating WHITE SPIKES Simply the process i know has already been a suggestion by Alex M and others, this is to blend 2 images together to end up with a more suitable exposure of the enitre image. The process being Shoot a RAW image exposing for your highlights. open up 2 images from the RAW file in PS, 1x exposure for the highlights. 1x exposure for you midtones and shadows. save these files using the DRI plug in, Simply tell the software where each images is stored , set your blending pref's and hey presto !!!! A WONDERFULLY Exposed image with detail throughout the entire range. It does feel like cheating however " so my wife says" but i'm telling myself that i'm making amends to what Nikon cannot provide. regards craig SORRY ABOUT THE LACK OF UNDERWATER IMAGES BUT I LIVE MILES AWAY FROM ANY DIVE SITE, SO YOU'LL HAVE TO MAKE DO WITH MY GARDEN AS AN EXAMPLE.................SORRY HIGHLIGHTS EXPOSURE MID'S EXPOSURE FINAL RESULT WITH INCREASED DR.
  15. HI I had this happen a couple of times on my F80. i put it down to the contacts between lens and body although i did'nt do much to fix it, just remove the lens inspected both and carefully cleaned contacts re-seated the lens checking all the switches on the lens itsself AF/M selectors and Aperture setting ring and it burst back into life. sorry i cant help you anymore than that. regards craig
  16. Hi Anthony I Guess then its my LAPTOP screen ... LCD however the color depth is set to the highest setting (millions of colors) thanks regards craig
  17. Thanks Arnon i'm with you now regards craig
  18. HI again everyone to expand on this thread a little, find below one of the half not too bad images from my days shoot (read above) i'm getting quite critical here now. I've found on a lot of the results that i'm getting a kind of Gradient colour banding on the background water ( is it my monitor / computer settings or is it the D70) all are RAW and converted using PS. no matter what file type i save to the image still has this colour seperation banding..... weird... can anyone explain why or how this is happening regards craig
  19. Ok can you expand a little on this method pls. i understand where your coming from and to deal with a difficult exposure situtaion this method might well be useful. are you able to get the 2 images "in camera" as a pre setting to shoot 2 images 1 over / 1 under i haven't seen any settings for that option. or are you just simply using exposure bracketing or even just doing the same shot twice with different settings, however this latter method would be a little tricky to get the shot composed exactly as the first one. thanks craig
  20. Hi Guys Thanks for the information so far, Peter the sigma 15mmFE you recommended is wonderful, thanks for your help. Anthony, Thanks for your information so next time around i'll start exposing for the highlights and try and train my brain to set aside what looks to be very dark shadows. I'm slowly getting to grips with the histogram after reading lots on this forum, the highlights settings as you mentioned is also excellent. I'll try this method on my next outing, I did'nt learn to shoot film overnight , that took lots of hard work , so i must not expect to learn this art overnight. I think in this day and age we expect the term DIGITAL to be better and easier than our older methods, as i'm finding out this is not so true. I shot a 5060wz before my D70 and got some excellent results using that camera, the benefit i now found was that i could see the exposure on the screen before i hit the shutter button, which is not the case with the D70. Learning will take place.. has anyone got anymore tips on settings to use on the D70, i did find that SHADE and Cloudy WB settings gave a pleasant results in my Green Water. I've been juggling around with custom curves on the D70 using a number of software items availble on the net or would it just be better to shoot with NORMAL settings entered into the D70 contrast/curve area. Keep your advice coming thanks craig :-)
  21. Hi All, Just got back from a quick trip to my local inland site here in the UK with My now 4 week old D70. My system is D70 - Sea & Sea Dx70 - 15mmFE - compact Dome - SB-105 x2 The conditions were totally terrible viz was about 1-1.5m and extremely cruddy... I'm still not convinced about Digital, Or am / was i expecting too much coming off trannies after the 7 years. I got a bag a very mixed results. I'm going to try and post some pictures below but not 100% sure how too do it, so if no pictures are present can someone inform me on how too. Ok the basic problem seems to be what i'd discribe as Exposure latitude or the lack of it. I just can't seem to capture a typical wide angle exposure slightly pointed towards the surface. the problems are listed Blowing out the surface pixels to WHITE (far right spikes on the histogram), you'll notice on the portrait shot of my wife, she's exposed ok. the lower section of the image is underexposed, it transitions to the top into a COMPLETE WHITE BLOW OUT. i'm struggling to get my head around why. surely if i had metered the water somewhere near the surface the lower section of the image would have been extremely underexposed, this shot was taken in 5meters of water on a cloudy dull day iso 200. i've tryed using the D70 in manual and using the shutter speed to control the background exposure, but i can't seem to capture the WHOLE image. Is it just the conditions that i'm shooting in, i await a trip to the blues for a proper test. the other images as you can see the diver shot through a window is a nice exposure however the other one is terrible, the surface water again just blew out. I do understand that i can't have all my cake and eat it, as there must come a point where the exposure between the two areas is more than the camera can handle. Please Any information you guys might have to restore my confidence in the D70 would be more than welcome along with any tips for sorting out the problems in photoshop however i dont think much can be done for WHITE SPIKES Thanks Craig
  22. Hi firstly shooting macro with your D70 is not like shooting macro with you 5060. the DOF "depth of Field" on your 5060 at 5.6 will be much much higher than the DOF on the D70 using a 60mm as you may already know Aperture effects your DOF. A wider aperture like f5.6 you'll have Less DOF than say a setting of f11 or f16 your primary concern shooting macro is FOCUS, you want your subject to be as tack sharp as you can get it. If you choose an aperture that is reducing your DOF you may well find that you subject becomes a little soft depending on where you focused. to combat slight errors in focusing you could choose much smaller apertures to give you maximum DOF I personally always use F11 F16 & F22 on my Nikon F80 & will continue to do so using my D70. As for shutter speed. the i suppose i would have a think about a few factors 1. What i need to capture the subject in the way i wish to capture it 2. what kind of exposure do i require of the background surrounding my subject normally however "speaking for myself here" i tend to expose my subjects when shooting macro Totally with Flash, as when using such small aperture settings, to get any kinda background exposure you'd have to have some crazy slow shutter speed. But creativity is in the mind of the person who holds the shutter button. Also i'd shoot in MANUAL mode
  23. Hi All, i asked the same question a few weeks ago, in the end i got myself the sigma 15mm FE , i've only tested this lens on land so far on my D70 & i'm really impressed. its tack sharp and very nicely built. I'm sure it will serve me well underwater. I did'nt get the 12-24 due to the fact that a number of folk had said it was soft on the edges which would be fine if the subject is filling the centre of the frame, i generally use a WA lens to shoot CFWA filling most of the frame and to have SOFT spots was not an option. However the plus was ZOOM, i will however be getting a 10.5mm for that true fisheye regards craig
  24. Hey Hello John Thanks for all the info guys, John, I know cappy is a greenish colour somtimes, but usually i get lovely blues on my Fuji Provia 100 :-) All info has been entered into the memory banks, I dont think the weekend shot went that well, I was forced to use a 24mm F2.8 which obviously with the 1.5x factor it was pretty much...... well, no darn good. i think its just going to take a little time to get used to the transition, My Old Olympus 5060 did a dam good job 99% of the time, i now have my 15mmFE and will try again now i can get MUCH MUCH closer to compose a picture and post the results here. As for the WINTER splash in, ... would be good fun, but i think i'd rather jet off to somewhere that is WARM ... But...... those BURGERS & Bacon/egg Buns will take some beating. thanks again all. will try and get a couple of the shots on the next posting , at work at present...... craig
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