Jump to content

craig nelson

Member
  • Content Count

    298
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. Just as the above states Looking to source a good set of cables for MDX D7100 housing to Z240 strobes. Normally it would be a proper nik cable for me but have to move with the times so looking for a good recommendation I was thinking of using the new INON L fittings as they look quite flexible. But attaching them securely to the front of the housing optical a is via what method ? Regards Craig
  2. Hi Rutger Your housing has standard 5 pin nikonos bulkhead. Look on ikelite website for nikonos to sea and sea strobe cable, that should work fine they are normally longer than S&S Hope that helps Craig
  3. Hi john Let's go back to basics when shooting underwater. Take as much water out of the equasion as you can between you and your subject. It matters not how many MEGAPIXELS one has if there's lots of Water based debris between you and your subject, image clarity will be poor forcing you to spend lots of time in photoshop attempting to correct it. Move closer to your subject rather than zooming in. Most modern lenses such as 10-17 or 12-24 allows one to get close enough to force out that H2O between you and your subject. You might find that housing the 17-70 will work great for you with what ever it is your looking for in your images however you also run the risk of being "lazy" and zooming in. I find that 12-24 is perfection for me. I have used 18-70mm underwater but I generally used it when jumping into the unknown for the first time and my focus is on items of equipment a diver is using. All you need to do is give it try , grab an extension ring and give it a go. If you have to buy a new dome. I just don't think it's worth spending the extra on the dome to potentially be unhappy with your results due to turbid water conditions. Grab a 12-24 if you don't like the fisheye , they are an aquired taste. I just use a 40mm extension on my dome to switch from 10-17 to 12-24mm Again 105 or 60mm. How close can you get ? Hope this helps Craig
  4. Hi Adam They are located just off to the left side of the top centre of the housing. The hugyfot converters I found on some other posts, basically strip out the standard nikonos bulkhead (easy to do) and screw in the optical acrylic unit. Found on the web for 55 euros. Triggering will be via a mini led flash unit if I can get it in the housing. Not holding much hope TBH as it fits like a glove. Jim, I've been in tough with Kevin, will send the unit to him. I've opened it and inspected and rebuilt it all working fine. I found nothing wrong but it's pressure integrity is suspect so it has to go off. See how I get on, that's the plan in my head anyway. Regards Craig
  5. Hi Double check your flash exposure compensation setting on your camera and check the mode of the flash, ensure its set to TTL in the camera and recheck by shooting a few shots at 100 iso f11 1/125 . Make sure your camera is set to manual mode. And set the focus mode to single shot selecting a single focus sensor This exposure is considerably dark enough to need a good amount of light to expose your subject form your strobes. Try using a Lens around 24mm to narrow the field of view enough for all TTL reference to ensure good functionality. If you have a macro lens use that to ensure the the subject will only be exposed by light from your strobes. Post the pictures so we can reference the exposures. Then feedback will be forth coming. Regards Craig.
  6. I've been using the 10-17mm since it first came out. It's great for my needs I've used it with a sea and sea compact dome with a 20-30mm extension ring. If you zoom it in to 17mm it effectively just cutting off the corners and using more of the central frame, less bending of straight lines. It's not a reticilinar lens, it's a fisheye with a zoom / crop facility. I've not use for it above water what so ever. I'm not a great lover of fisheye imaging anyway, I prefer the use of the 12-24 Tbh. None the less in in my kit bag. Forgive me it's been sometime. I once was an E-6 shooter , when life was simple Craig
  7. Hi Ive been using this setup with a S&S TTL converter since before most of you were born !! Lol. "Well it feels that way" as I've not upgraded I've encountered a flooded TTL converter and need to get it serviced to ensure its integrity. However I'm thinking about converting a bulkhead to optical. Anyone know a service agent provider in the UK? I see that hugyfot produce an acrylic conversion the replaces the inner workings of the standard nikonos bulkhead, looks like it screws is and seals using the standard nikonos internal oring and and oring placement directly onto the bulkhead itself. Has anyone had any success with one of these units ? Also I would need to trigger it using some kind of micro LED flash unit or if it will work pop up the flash internally however most Nikon units require the pop up to be in a certain position before the camera recognises that you require flash output. I have read a couple of posts in which DIY trigger units have been produced and have emailed a few users in relation to that. I use Z240 strobes any assistance is most welcome Thanks Craig
  8. hi Nat i use the d200 with tokina 12-24mm and nikon 10.5mm the 12-24mm goes behind a compact dome with the 40mm extension ring, the 10.5 works just with the compact dome. the image quality of the tokina in this combination blows me away, the 10.5mm well, i dont shoot with it that much, but when i do, never had an issue with the quality. i just love the tokina too much, i also use the 10-17mm from tokina using the compact and 25mm extension, again, i'm more than happy. regards craig
  9. Hi all just a quick one is anyone or has anyone found that they can cram a d300 into a Sea & Sea DX200 housing ? just wondering if its possible regards craig
  10. Ha ha John Sharon says take lipo suction and a few cosmetic lifts (the knife) as well I dunno how you do it Alex, i skinned my gear down to nothing, yet each time i go it gets increasingly heavier. maybe its the corrosion on my ally backplate, or the Jet fins.. regards craig
  11. HI All I'd like to add my comments to this thread if i may. When i moved from shooting "transparency" to digital I remember feeling almost "what the hell have i done" pretty much like i guess anyone switching from Canon to Nikon or vice versa. it can be a difficult transition, I started with Canon "film", then went to Nikon "film" and have stayed with Nikon since. What i've learnt from the digital revolution is what most are saying in the latter areas of this post, That you cannot depend on just one form of post production software. Each of them have their merits and pitfalls, I like to use NX or Capture (older version) when i want my images to arrive as I shot them and dont require too much correction, e.g a wedding shoot. for underwater work i'll use a combination of various software packages dependant on what results i'm looking for. but my favored is PS for underwater work. I dont own a D300 so cant pass any advice on settings for you. But i'm sure you have a very capable tool in which to capture your image, the rest is in the eye and mind of the user. happy shooting and PP regards craig
  12. HI All Im a user of the compact dome port with sx extension ring alongside the 10-17mm it works just fine but i would agree with john that it not as good as it could be edge to edge. but for me at this time, i'm quite happy with it. when it gets a look in that is, i love my tokina 12-24mm (with the 40mm entension), i have had work published from the 10-17mm behind the compact dome. regards craig
  13. HI I use the Nikon 18-70 Zoom ring on my Tokina 12-24, works like a dream for me, just the addition of a small amount of felt and removal of the oring on the gear using this behind a compact dome and 40mm extension. regards craig
  14. Yeah I think you should John ! if you keep going one day you'll be able to take better pictures , You've always told me you simply press the button and trust in Nikon.. its gota be better mate DIVORCE or D3 & housing ? if we can afford to buy one, once the wife has taken half of all our camera equipment. they are not stupid you know, they know just how much is sitting in that safe.. its "their" GOLD its all good fun. at least i cheered myself up today whilst writing these stupid things craig
  15. Hello again thanks for not shooting me down folk... I was a little grouchy when i got up yesterday and instead of the wife getting hit with it, i thought i'd rant on the internet ! So, Yes your correct John, i do live in stoke, and i am indeed from the NORTH, so you'd need a 7/8 spanner to prise the 50 pence out of my A**e (that means for the guys over the pond, that i'm really careful where i spend my money and would rather sit on it than spend it) The Comment re John Being older than his house made me laugh, thanks for that john actually feels younger than he is, and this is much more important. I'm not going to go over some of the points raised by others , but i own 2 D200 bodies, and have always had 2 of whatever i have used. it just makes sense. if i'm away on a job and the first tool breaks , i have another to complete the job with. i also have A WIFE !... No i certainly dont need 2 of those if you dont want to end up in a divorce, then its much better to get along with the loved one, not consistantly keep spending your earnings on what she see's is another NEW TOY "why do you need another camera ? when the one u have already does the job" in some ways, i suppose the Wives are correct, Maybe we should encourage more women to work at NIKON & CANON... YEH thats the answer i'm sure ! I'm ducking already as lots of flak is going to come my way regards craig Just one moment... while we are on the subject of love and those cherished ones. If your a Male, Is you camera Female or Male..... you know, we often attach a sex to our automobiles, they are always female when they are about to go wrong or run out of gas "come on girl, just get me to the gas station" well i'm interested in what sex you put on your camera... My Primary is called "JIM" Jim is Male, he's dependable and you can take him down the pub (bar) and dont have to worry about people's opinion of seeing 2 guys drinking together. "JIM" can take his drink and can be the life and sole of the evening if you allow him too. Jim had his beverage changed so many times he wont know whats in the glass, he can take it, and still walk home without falling down after a big session, awakes in the morning ans just resets his menu and formats the card and ready for another session. When jim and if ever jim feels sick or i need a shot while jim is sleeping in his housing i use. CHLOE' - Now Chloe' could sell me a Renualt Clio anytime, fine lines, sleek, I just press the button and she delivers.. people adore Chloe' when the grip is attached.. she's complete "the little black dress" every man looks at her with envey and wishes they also had my Chloe'. Her menus have not all been surfed because there is no need to just yet, I know them all from Jim because he told me about them , but i'm not going to press all the right buttons just yet, i'll save a few for later.... she's perfect not a blemish on her and two batteries to turn her on ! keeps her going for a long time. Na , thats enough, sorry folks, just thought i'd be a little lighthearted this morning, but its interesting how at times my car is male, then its female. just wondering if your camera is the same mine
  16. Hi All well i'm going to throw a spanner into the works a little here. WHY must we all rush out to change our cameras for the sake of 2 million pixels !! Its nothing in comparitive image dimensions. Are you not happy with your D200 ?. Paul Kay has the answer, I'm so fed up with this race between CANON & NIKON to produce new models every year, its crazy. Tit for Tat production, just incase one of them grabs the market. lets have just simple Sensor and firmware upgrades for what we have. then when big leaps come along, its then worth changing. Nothing revolutionary has happened with these new models, the old ones did just a good a job. I'm keeping with my 200 and happy I am with it. You can keep on throwing large amounts of cash at this hobby, would a D300 and a new housing make a magical difference in your images.. Lets not forget the art of photography eh !, its still the user that presses the shutter button and has the eye and knowledge to make the image. anyone think we were not photographers, all the time i hear people saying to me, YEH, i have a 10 mega pixel camera, oh woooooosh, here take a look at these shots from my 2 million Nikky 2200... better or worse than your 8 million super duper camera ? .. People start to think and talk MEGAB****CKS Craig............. joining the revolution against this POWER madness !!.. i'm sorry guys and girls about this outburst
  17. Hi All I'm asking this question on behalf of friend, Basically i he wants to purchase the sigma 10-20mm, currently he has only the canon 18-55mm using the recommended Sealux port of 120/99 Sealux do a whole range of domes just like ikelite or anyone else. The recommended for the sigma is 120/94 now in my infinite wisdom i'm assuming that the 120 is the dome radius and that the /99 /94 is the extension length or total length of the port. So could anyone confirm that the Sigma 10-20mm will indeed fit into the 120/99 dome, it seems really stupid to buy a new dome for the sake of 5mm. he can just zoom in a little to take away any vignetting. also, sealux list zoom gears in SHORT LONG. from this should i take it that they are ONE SIZE and you pack out to fit your lens ? kind regards craig
  18. Hi ALL i'm asking a general question here regarding Sea n Sea external TTL converters, My buddy has a 400D and sealux CC400, 5 pin standard nikonos sockets, are any of you guys using the above, or do you know if the TTL converter is compatible, i can re-wire the housing no trouble, but not too sure about all this Canon stuff, (6 pin hotshoe Blah blah) but i'd like to help him out. ta craig
  19. I have used all 3 major brands IMHO , Sea & Sea or INON, Currently i'm using Inon Z-240, and was totally blown away by their compact size when i first opened the box, I'm very very happy with them. I'm a Sea & Sea DX-200 user, and i also have the Associated ITTL converter from Sea & Sea running with my Z-240's. It all works perfectly. When i'm looking for new items, SIZE matters, I travel with Photography and weight and package space is all important along with the items ability to get the job done. regards Craig
  20. Hey John ! have you changed your email addy lately, i've mailed you a couple of times but got no response, maybe you just ignorning emails from a northerner ! Hope the D200 & Sea & Sea is treating you well. with relation to the question raised above, here's what i use and its works just fine 18-70 is used behind the compact dome port with a 40 extension ring and 18-70 zoom gear. & a +4 60mm is run using a compact macro port base along with the small compact macro port. If i run the 105mm i simply add the 40 extension ring to this and its as simple as that. i also use the 12-24 with the dome and extension above the 10.5mm us run in this dome without extension. Simple regards craig
  21. Hi all i'm using DX200 with type I TTL converter and a pair of Z240 SPOT ON, no problems at all. regards craig
  22. Hi John Paul Basically, there is no correct way. You simply paint with your light, use them as an artist would use paints. if it were me i would have normally added light from TOP DOWN to add nice shadows , basically to simultate the sun. Thats me, each artist is unqiue in the way they use their paints. just paint. regards Craig
  23. Hello Lambis I'm not informationally wise up on these little HID lights, but what i can tell you is that i use a much larger HID unit for a lot of my TEC diving. firstly, you'll get a better burn time from an HID than that of a Halogen., Not really sure how they are claiming that an HID light has a colour temp of 4000k, thats sound much like a halogen unit to me. "very YELLOW in light terms" HID are normally extremely close to Daylight in terms of Kelvin temp, if not most of them have a much stronger tendancy towards the 10,000k end . Having kept Marine Aquariums for many years and used all manner of lights to simulate the reef, the industry has kind of settled into HID's of around 5500k - 10,000k, dependant on what depth range you are trying to simulate within your aquarium. but we are talking about the diving industry here and not the aquatics indusrty, however i'd say that if its closer to 5,600k then your not going to have to great a problem with the difference between your external guns and this little light. knowing your working conditions in sweden, i can see what your attempting to do using this light. my only concern for you is that the beam angle on this little light is not going to provide anywhere near what your looking to do with it.. what you need is an underwater light that is HID and designed for video usage, try taking a look at www.halcyon.net. i've been using there lights for a long time now and are totally awesome. my HID has a focusable head which can be taken from tight SPOT for signalling to massive wide angle for flood lighting. "wicked in overhead enviroments" it would also be quite possible to tandem these units up so that you could run them as constant studio lights underwater, however, you are looking at a massive expense, a nice unit from Halcyon would set you back approx $1800 per unit complete with a video head reflector.. you'd be better making a suface rig of Outdoor HID Metal Halide lights, or the aquarium industry units which of Pendant type would also work, but mostly they are approx 150w, which could be insufficent for your needs like i say i'm not sure on the spec's of these little lights, forgive me if i'm incorrect. regards Craig
  24. Hi Espen. The ttl unit attaches to a bracket that is mounted onto your left control handle, according to data, this unit will work with your D2X, it matters not of you housing, however it must be wired with all 5 pins connected. you will require the Z-240 in order to operate regards Craig
×
×
  • Create New...