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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. Hi Gary Well to put a few answers to your questions. to obtain the finest image quality was used to use ISO 50 (velvia) or like whilst shooting macro, whilst shooting wide we used to use ISo 100 (provia) or like. if you striving for image quality then use the lowest ISO speed you can get away with. By get away with, you must understand how exposure are made and what effect ISO plays on the exposure. I'm sure you have heard of Stops of light. well, it would be simple to say the ISO 200 is one stop faster than ISO 100, ISO 400 is 2 stops faster than ISO 100. by faster i mean that it actually requires less l(its more sensitive to light) light to make what used to be the chemical change in order to make an exposure on our film, dont get bogged with digital at this piont, you need to learn the basics of photography here firstly for example. if i loaded up the camera with ISO 100 film and took a meter reading of a reefscene and i had returned an exposure value of F8 1/60. if i Used ISO 200 instead of ISO 100 i gain 1 stop of light back to my image. so in theory i could now choose to do the following to make the same exposure 1. Use F11 instead of F8, because this stops the light down by 1 stop, if ISO200 requires 1 stop of light less to make the expsoure then you must see that if i reduce the aperture opening by 1 Stop i will achieve the same exposure as ISO100 F8 1/60. 2. Use 1/125 shutter speed, Again , you can see that i'm not allowing the light to touch the film for as long as i would if i used 1/60 ( 1 stop) so my new exposure could be F8 1/125. when we shoot images, we have a couple of choice's that need to be made before we actually press the button, and these choices are made based our available light at the time. the numbers you see around are not just plucked out of the air, the photographer usually selects his or her exposure setting based on the following. 1. Depth of field, The distance infront and behind the subject that falls into focus from our selected focus point. This actually changes with Aperture setting, the smaller the aperture opening the larger the DOF. 2. Subject Suitablity , I.e its no use trying to capture fast moving animals with 1/8 second Shutter Speed. So taking a look at your subject and its movement more often settles the shutter speed your going to use. 3. if exposing with Manual flash alone and not taking into account any ambient light exposure we must adjust our strobe power output in order to make a suitable exposure and again APERTURE here is the determind factor, the simple equasion of F-stop = GN of strobe / Strobe to subject distance. I could go on and on Gary, but i'm not going to teach you a photography course within these small pages. but i hope you can see that one answer to your question would be that, if i dont get the exposure settings i wish to use on my image because the available light is not sufficient then as a trade off to image quality i can Up my ISO settings to give me back a few stops of light in order to try and achieve the settings that i require to capture my subject. Photography actually looks easy, and with todays digital cameras it is quite easy, however like most things in this life, if we have a total understanding of what we are doing and know how our tools work then we can become at one with the tool, it is only then will you become a master of that tool. a wise man once said. He who does not know and does not know he does not know is a fool, so shun him He who does not know, but knows he does not know requires teaching, so teach him. He who knows and does not know that he knows is asleep, so wake him. He Who Knows and knows he knows is wise, so follow him. Best regards Craig
  2. Hi Erika well firstly, you wont be able to use any strobe in TTL mode if you dont have the TTL converter unit not sure what your first cx of strobe is, but i use the Z-240 with my D200 and DX-200 with S&S TTL converter and they work a treat, extremely fast strobes. regards craig
  3. quite simple, i run up a table of distances using this standard STSD = GN/F-stop and test that, then simply just get used to the strobe. more often than not, the golden F8 1/60 with 1/2 power on the strobes 100iso works most of the time for subjects around 3-4ft away. The z-240 has lots of control steps, i generally run a few "clicks" at a time. you will with time learn you strobe until its settings just become instinct regards craig
  4. HI YES they all work fine, i'm using the exact combo, and its wonderful go get one !! craig Oh i forgot to say, you simply place the strobe to STTL and and thats all you need to do, if you want to use AUTO mode you need to place the converter into Manual Mode, as so for manual flash shooting as well the converter has +/- 1 stop of TTL exposure on the dial as well. the Z-240 ttl exposure comp doesn't seem to work, but that doesn't matter... craig
  5. HI I'm using D200 S&S converter and Z-240. total dream. TTL converter on the Z-240works fine. how come you cant handle manual ?, its so simple with the Z-240 or infact any strobe, ? i use manual all the time, my ttl converter only switched to ttl in anticipation of the unxpected swimming by. regards craig
  6. HI ok i'll share some of my testing information with you with regards to this problem. Firstly i'm no ikelite user, Sea & Sea is my choice of tool. test setup as followed D70 - Inon Z240's - tokina 12-24mm NO DIOPTRE I carried out the following shots after returned home from a Sipadan trip with my new 8" dome i'd been using the tokina 12-24 behind this dome without extension ring and using a +2.. each day i steadly got more and more frustrated with it images we very much like your's soft on the corners and at time's simply not even in focus. after a few days i then began to seek a solution to this problem. Firstly, I'd never and was never a dioptre user.. HATE THE THINGS with a vengence.. but i was prepared to give them another try given all the positive reading within these forums. I couldn't see any difference in my photos at all with the +2 added. It got to me , then i started to think about dome placement.. The next day i added a 40mm extension ring onto my fisheye dome port 8"... the results we much much improved, but still not the kick in the ass i was expecting but a great improvement none the less. So upon my return i carried out a few tests against my Compact Dome port, just to see if there was a quality difference in the two domes, as i had always been told that the bigger the dome the better. So i went to a local flooded quarry here in the Uk, water viz is about 3m and its 8c when these shots were done. setup was again, tokina 12-24 this time tested with the 40 extension ring in place and no dioptre first shot was done with the 8" dome, and the crop is from the edges second shot was the subject aircraft different diver model, and Compact Dome with 40mm extension sorry about the size of the crops they are 100% however, had to keep it small to fit it into one post, but i hope you can see that there is not a lot of difference between the two at all, you can see that they are quite sharp with detail and not stretched and pulled out of focus , However the lesson learned was that correct dome placement makes all the difference. even with the large fisheye 8" dome. just because the lens fits behind the dome, dosn't mean that its in the correct place at all. I think i'm inclined to say try your dome placement and hopefully that will help greatly. well it did in my case, now i'm a happy chap... and have actually gone back to my compact dome as there is just not enough quality difference to justfy me lugging it around the globe, i'm more than happy with my little dome and a 40mm extension. regards Craig
  7. Hi Arnon just remembered, your an Ikelite user, the cord i have is Nikonos bulkhead fitting to SB-105's.. made by ikelite you need a 4115.32 cable mine is 4115.2 never mind, good luck in your search for one.
  8. HI Arnon yeh still have and want to sell it. would be looking for £50 GBP for it + shipping "approx" £12 its brand new, Ikelite made. if your interested can you email me direct, payment can be via PAYPAL, or PM me and i'll send you my email addy not posting here due to spammers thanks craig
  9. Hello Again, (not sure of your name, its not in your details) You dont have to use DS125 with your setup, Only if you require to shoot ETLL , thats if your housing is ETTL wired. you could simply get a pair of SS100's for good money from Ebay or something and shoot like most of us with Manual flash. most of the old guns work fine with the new digital rigs in Manual Flash mode. i bet you could get a pair of SS100's for $600 nowdays. I personally have been using Nikonos Sb-105's for a long time, it was only the compact size of the new Z240 that took me down the Inon Route, being 1/2 the size of the Sb-105 and very evenly matched in power output. so far i'm really happy with them. But your going to have to stay within the ikelite system unless ike does cables for other strobes to ikelite housings. I got my last pair of 105's from the States "ebay" new items for $299 each, these would suit you fine. and i know for sure ike does a dual cable for nikonos onto ICS. see this link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nikonos-Nikon-SB-105...1QQcmdZViewItem This is the guy i purchased from, great to deal with, for $219 you cant go wrong, all you need is a cable and arm.. get to it ! regards Craig
  10. Hello re: Check in luggage. So far ive never had a problem at all, i carry all my delicate gear "CHECK IN" everything else like Ports - Strobes - Arms - cables - Spares , goes into the checkin in baggage, which is my dive bag packed into HARD PLASTIC containers firstly. i carry on in a small camera/laptop rucsac that looks small on my wife 1x D200 1x 60mm 1x 105mm 1x 12-24mm 1x 10.5mm 1x 18-70mm 1x laptop in a should style bag "lowepro nova 5" i carry 1x Housing with D200 body also mounted inside. Both my bags are almost exactly 5kg each, maybe a little more, if i get any problems at all i simply fill my pockets with the lenses and voila !! the weight limit is acheived. If i'm going out on assignment, i do have a slightly larger rucsac that will take all of the above, and i leave my laptop in a small hand held bag, if you read many airline standards they actually state that you can have 1 item of hand luggage plus a laptop case. otherwise, i have my assignment counterpart carry a bag for me , he has too or simply we cant get the job done So far, all my checkin items have had very good ride, always nice and snug in there boxes regards Craig
  11. Hello Steve. The sunburst, was actually taken with my old D70 !, so yeh its digital, & i quite agree, its not bad at all for a digital sunburst ! one of my better results on digital. was taken using 2x Z-240 and the Excellent Tokina 12-24 "i think" regards Craig.
  12. Hi If your happy with your ambient light photography then be happy with it, however. i'd just like to add, Apart from the above, EVERY shot benefits from FLASH photography not just macro photo's. Most of us use flash to perfect what we call, wideangle balanced light, quite simply adding flash to an amount which will capture natural looking tones and colours and to revel textures in our subjects. Granted, if you can't get close enough to you subject, but we all suffer this from time to time, however, there always comes a time when we get close enough and coupled with just the correct amount of flash we can produced stunning results. Below is a typical example of a Balanced light shot, If i was not to add flash to the foreground of this picture, the turtle in the shot would have looked ok, but, his true colours would'nt shine through. instead what i've ended up with is a shot that show's just how perfectly the average turtle can blend into his surrounds. not a master peice, but it shows the true colours of the reef and the creature another one below again a turtle, but its balanced against a sunburst, if i shot without flash, we simply would have ended up with a silouette shot, which still would be nice, but, the fill light adds impact to this shot Get yourself a couple of Strobes, you want be dissapointed. another item you could look at is Alex's Magic Fliters. but you need to shoot correctly and using the sun correctly to acheive good results with them, but they are excellent regards craig
  13. Do Aliens exsist ? depends on what you wish to believe in ! they seem to have halted production of them, maybe a copyright/pat issue over inon ? who know's i was awaiting, then gave up and got Z-240 craig
  14. I'm quite happy with my Z-240's it depends on what you want to light i suppose, but using x2 i have not had problem at all. regards Craig
  15. Hi Lambis by "out a bit" james means that you kick them out slightly to the lateral edges of your rig and not directly in line with the lens/port. regards craig
  16. Hi All Selling up my D70 body and Sea & Sea Dx-70 housing both as new boxed complete with all manuals and accessories. will split £1150 for the Lot - housing only £750 please feel free to email or PM me photos of the housing are at www.aquaimaging.co.uk/DX70.htm Scammers BUGGER OFF, i'll just rip up your silly cheques. dont even bother to send me any silly emails asking its condition or telling me your brother lives in london .... etc etc.... clear off and get a life. Sorry you good folks, rant over ! regards craig
  17. I'm Completely Bloody sick of this digital !! I'm going back to film !!!, i never needed a new camera then ! craig.. after just buying his new D200
  18. John thanks for making me laugh today, COSINA !!, i see why you kept it under wraps in lemby, They have a new version coming out called STEALTH; it suits this purpose very well. Myself, I own the Nikon's but have used Sigma's with just as much success when i was a Canon Shooter. Having just returned from Kapalai-Sipadan-Mabul, i found that the 60mm mostly suited, as you need to get that little closer and this kept the crap out from infront of the lens. prior to going i also purchased a Nexus WET Close up , if i had to recommend something to a shooter, its one of these !!, wicked tool to have in your bag and its cheap as chips. I'm now just in recovery after purchasing my new D200, the housing will have to move in when my DX70 stops paying the rent ! then i have an excuss to evict it ! I'm sick of all this Digital, I never had any good reason to upgrade my film rig's at all. now i find reasons everytime something new comes out. I feel that i'll be upgrading to a divorce if Nikon-Canon keep producing cameras regards craig
  19. Hi Jim well, i'm scratching my head, i've really never had a problem at all with my D70 like this, yes when the subject in backlite you need to highlight with a focusing light. i always use AF-S single shot when shooting wide. i could imagine however that if that water is very turbid, they it could may well be attempting to focus on particle elements between the dome and subject. make sure you have not got closest subject priorty enabled on the D70 as well jim. regards craig
  20. HI jim you did not state if your using a dioptre on the lens, I suspect that your not. this will be the source of your problems using small radius domes. nothing at all to do with AFS or AFC AFCD etc etc.. you will need at least a +2 on this lens, i often use a +4, and never have an issue when using a 5-6" dome, it does not require one at all if using a 9" dome. craig
  21. HI Folks thanks for you input chris, actually i've been looking at the CP-6 sanyo for sometime , but was unsure of the quality and amount of footage you can fit on a 1-2GB card. Any ideas anyone, or can anyone point me to a site with some footage from one of these cameras. thanks craig
  22. Hi All I'm looking for a bit of help, Myself & Wife wish to get us a compact UWV rig, nothing fancy, just to add a few vids to our photo DVD. can you pass on some advice /req's pls. thanks craig
  23. Hi All I have brand new in the box, only tested for its water tightness. Sea & Sea NX Fisheye Dome port "sea & sea's 9" super optic" surplus to my requirements £250 UKP please. Delivery will be at your expense by signed for international mail approx £20. please contact me via PM or below the listing. regards Craig
  24. Hi Mads very simple you cant ! the Z-240 is not able to work like the 220, its focusing light is only manual operation with cabled systems. so you will either have to have them on all the time, or simply press the button to activate it for approx 20sec. regards craig
  25. Hello Amir its totally usless running the 12-24 behind a wide flat port. its acts as a magnifiying lens and thus you will end up with a narrower field of view. I speaking for myself here, but i think we ALL use a Dome for this lens. get yourself either the Compact Dome port and 40mm extension or the Bigger fisheye dome. regards craig
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