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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. HI IMHO, i'd always cord the strobes up. this ensure's that they are certain to trigger if asked too. slave systems (if not linked optically) tend to work better shooting macro and you can be sure that they will trigger. the D2000 will certainly work, but i'd rather have the assurance of cords. regards craig
  2. Hi Alex I'll try and capture an image for UK publications whilst i'm out there.! When i was out in the Maldives in December. a certain dive guide actively promoted sitting and clinging onto the reef whilst awaiting Grey Reef sharks to swim by. !!! " i was not impressed" I just used my reef hook and stayed well away from the reef itself... so simple Having worked out in the Red Sea on numerous occassions i was totally disgusted with this behaviour. EL NENO eh! killing the reef !... I think not.. more like d*&k heads. No one i know that works for long standing centre's in egypt would do such a thing. I've known guides get into fights with people underwater over disregard for aquatic wildlife. my good friend got punched in the face with a camera !!!! . is a picture really worth that much too some people. I hope not to see this example Alex, but in some way i hope to do so, as i'll try my best to faithfully record the moment. Aquatic wildlife itself is so interesting, why must people make a party trick of it.. If people look so bored underwater whilst diving that they have to be entertained by a clown, then maybe they should OPEN THEIR EYES whilst diving and look at the reef and it inhabitants. or de-fog their mask's !! I'll take a few zip ties with me and zip tie his hands to his feet if i see him do such things..... fun to be had Nuff said Enjoy the rest of your trip Alex craig
  3. JESUS CHRIST "i'm sorr to take the lords name in vein" BUT HOLY SH~@ !! £2.00 A Litre Andy... I'll not complain then mate craig
  4. Quite true Herb. But in todays Global Market Place, what the hell do they expect. I live in RIP OFF BRITAIN, fuel is $1.74 per Litre at the moment herb !! The Global Market is here to stay I think. craig
  5. Guys I've had mail from Inon, they simply will not post them on the net for are use. I english manual is produced for each strobe that is shipped to international dealers... Its a good job , SONY, CANON , NIKON, PANASONIC & all those other companies dont do such things.. Multilingual manuals are the future, List to us Inon. Do you think if we keep mailing them on mass that they will eventually get the message. crazy crazy.. craig
  6. Hi Bob Great stuff & thanks I got UW GN of Z-240 simply by 1/2 the land value, as that what most simply do and all the books wrote by good people in the field all use the same methology. regards craig
  7. HI Julian Yeh STSD = Strobe to subject distance. Well considering all your posting, they all may as well not bother printing any data. if they cant make a standard test to work a GN value... I guess then we go on the assumption of IF its Big then it gives out a lot of light, so it must be good... simple.. Or we simply let independant people run tests and show us their results. regards craig
  8. they just dont seem right to me lads as well, i got the data from the Strobe database at digital diver. without some hard testing john, keep your money in your pockets for now, if you want to try my Z-240's to compare firstly , only too happy for you to have a crack with them... Capernwray ? just been looking around the net at data.. (subtronics site) Subtronics site gives GN 14 for the Alpha 16 for the Alpha pro 14/9.5 = 4.8ft STSD Alphas 16/9.5 = 5.5ft STSD Alpha Pro Looking as i would have thought on the better side......but 12/9.5 = 4.1ft Inon z-240 12 / 8 = 4.9ft Inon Z-240 Alphas are about what a 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop brighter according to all that data then.. enjoy taba, say hi to the dolphins for me, and make sure that camera and flash work this time they come to say hello. regards craig g
  9. Hi Scott Ok thats confirmed that that part is fine, You now need to trace the wires from the Hotshoe to the Bulkhead now, to see if 5 pins are connected. The SB's shouldn't be at fault, as tough as old boots.. I'm 100% with the S2pro, but i assume that there is no function to change the output of the hotshoe to just X-sync only and turn TTL off in anyway. Do you get flash connected confirmation signal in the viewfinder? craig
  10. Hi John. The Data on Inon gives it 100h x 100v thats the same angle as a Round tube on the Ikelites new DS200 the data on subtronics are as followed. Alpha = 106h x 106v Alpha pro = 108h x 108v Mega's = 112h x 112v Maxi = 116v x 116h Bit of a geek for the figures aren't I, well again all this data was taken from the excellent Digital Diver Strobe database. So Sub's are a smidge wider, but going off the data, all the weight and problematic areas are just not worth that extra 6o of beam angle. Could this be a strobe test on the horizon, I'll give you a hand if you wish, bring my Z-240's and i can get Sb-105's and Ys90's regards craig Data aside, i still think that your correct about the subtronics, but the maths is saying otherwise
  11. Hi Scott I've used Sb-105 for years, never had an issue with them, on my F80 (FILM) or on My D70 (shooting Manual) First thing you should check it all the connections i guess, the S2pro is still a TTL camera and will work with any TTL that is connected with all 5 pins in the Bulkhead connected. Check out the wiring is this housing and its hotshoe, Was it working ok or have you purchased it used and then found this problem. You might find that the housing could only be rigged with only 2 pins connected thus the stobes will only light Manual settings. Also are you using a TTL sync cord... important, lots of older SB Sync cords could be None TTL. regards craig
  12. Hello With Mike, I'm a D70 user, & give this system a total thumbs up also been a canon user back in the days of Film. Both are cracking little cameras if you ask me, I'm totally happy with my professional work that comes from the D70. Yeh i'd like A gem like D2x, but its all extra weight, and to be totally honest about it, its not always the camera that produces fine images. Most of the time it's the User regards craig
  13. Hello John according to the data on http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php your subtronic Alphas have a UW GN of 11 Alpha Pro's GN 16 the same site says GN of Z-240 12 UW so if i do the maths on that mate Alpha = 11/9.5 = STSD 3.8 Ft Alpha Pros = 16/9.5 = STSD 5.5ft Z-240 = 12/9.5 = STSD 4.1ft Thats the maths. according to that strobe index but we are talking here about STSD to totally expose the subject here and not just balance it. i should think from this data that the rear section of the wobby, will appear about 1.3ev less than the front. as Paul Daniels would say "not a lot" 1 stop of light do you rekon.. But i really cant get my head around it, subtronics look a lot more powerful than the figures say.. we do have the Watt energy to think about as well, but not sure where that fits into normal calculations as all flash exposures as i know work on the STSD = GN/F-stop sum. Moving up to the MEGA guns, yeh a massive difference.. anyway, enough rubbish from me regards craig. p.s I forgot that you like to provoke topical conversations on forums , & now your laughing at me for taking the bait. ... fool me eh !!, but the figures are there in black and white. or are simply holographic
  14. Hello Roswin. Shooting manual is no longer a major problem for us. Why ?. You have the best learning curve tool in your hands ! the LCD display, quite simply , if you had a Z-240 you have 13 steps of manual power, start off somewhere with the exposure dial, and look at your LCD-histogram and adjust accordingly. You will very quickly learn your new strobe and its power settings, after a few hours of practise you will be able to get very close to the exposure you require just by looking overall at your subject and its distance combined with your aperture setting on your camera. if your not sure of the simple calculations here they are Stobes all have a power setting MAX based on 100 ISO termed GN or guide number. Guide numbers can be in Ft or Meters, be careful of this. they are usually as well expressed with an ON-LAND Value. to use this underwater simply 1/2 it. so our manual calculations are as follows Strobe to Subject Distance = GN / F-stop Example Z-240 GN = 24m Land / 2 (underwater = 12) I choose F8 on my Camera with a shutter speed to make the Background exposure i wish. so my flash calculations are as followed. Strobe to subject distance = (GN) 12 / F8 = 1.5 or 1.5meters. So my strobe.......not my camera needs to be placed 1.5 meters away from the subject with it set to FULL GN Power to totally expose my subject when i use F8. Are you understanding ? ( i hope). You can simply make yourself an Exposure table for each strobe setting, The Z-240 has 13 Manual GN settings, so lots of options are available. It might Sound confusing at first but try working through a few examples and you will get it. You will find that shooters like James & Myself dont need TTL, we just learn our strobes & reach a level where the exposure table becomes second nature in our mind when taking pictures. but you have the best tool to learn, DIGITAL LCD, i'm sure James can remember the days when we used to do all of this with FILM, and 95% of the time we got it right as well.... The happy times i've had looking over the top of my housing to look at the flash level on my subject & thinking ...... Yep that look about right. I wonder if we could go back to that James after a few years on digital, and get as many keepers as we used too Here goes a challange for the future... dont sell your film rigs for a nickle on EBay, save them, in time to come, a photo contest to see who gets the most keeps from a roll of E6 shooting manual only regards craig
  15. Hi Alex. Hope you indeed had better luck after trying that method. I used to have a couple of YS90 Auto's , thinking they would function as you wish they would, with manual power settings. Guess what, I never had any luck with them.. but i never did try and tape method. I ended up switching them back to standard YS90duo, the shop took them back. Whats the weather like at the moment and are you using a 3mm suit... happy days, and good luck can't wait till i reach those shore's in approx .... 21 day !!! regards craig p.s did you ditch the inon's then, or take as well ?
  16. HI Marli Same old story then, nothing changes, as i suspected, no payment. no suprise. craig
  17. Hi Marli I take it you did not give them permission to use it. firstly you must address the matter direct with them, ask them where and who gave them permission to use this image and state the obvious to them. I have had this often happen to me during various assignments. If your happy for them to use the image, state you conditions of usage to them and you terms/payment and see what happends next. (you will more than likey find that they will remove the image) (people dont like paying for images these days, the internet is a big place) I sometimes have jumped in with both guns blazing and often found that they didn't even know as the image was given to them by someone else. If you not happy about them using this image, then state that too them and ask for it to be removed or you will take proceedings further. regards craig
  18. HI Mark why cant inon just post the manual to there website, its easy simple and accessible. i'm sure this would also boost sales, people like to understand and read about what they are buying.. so why are inon so worried about posting them to a downloads section... are they "top secret or something " craig maybe you could just mail me a copy.... if you have a copy they are FOC after all to purchasers
  19. Thanks Julian my knowledge and the ability to aquire knowledge on inon products is well you could say TRASH.. I've tryed to get PDF versions of their manuals but for some reason they dont seem to like to add them to a downloads section on their site. I'm sure this is not a problem and can aid in the sales process from time to time. thanks for the information though, learning has taken place. craig
  20. Hi John I bet you wish you had them trusty 104's still. they don't build things like they used to eh !! i'd be quite furious if it were my hard earned. To see that what I've always regarded as "THE BEST" is apparently failing a number of pro users is saying something in my mind. I've just switched over to Inon Z-240 myself, so i hope they serve me well. not to mention the weight i've saved in my kit bag... sweet little things that pack a nice punch. Now all my camera gear can travel with me in cabin baggage allowance, that is until they weigh the contents of my pockets " lots of sweet nikkors in there" mmmmmm,, where do i stick my 80-400 VR ? regards craig
  21. No Alex to be honest. It took me about 30 seconds to completely get to grips with the Z-240. i only got a japanese manual so, i cant say anymore really the main function on the 240 are all with the magnet pushed in TTL (when available) AUTO (external) Manual FULL Manual -.5 to -6 EV it was really simple and they work exceptionally well. i think all other functions with this magnet apply to using optical cords regards craig p.s I never read the Manual first. always to play and learn is better, then if i dont succeed then I open the book. but when i cant sleep its always nice to have a cure for my insomnia ...
  22. Hi All I agree with Giles on this one. I've use this port for every wide and zoom lens i own, and i'm totally happy with the image quality. NEVER had a problem or quality issue regards craig
  23. Hello Guys My D70 does go "doo Lally" with all 5 pins connected. i just simply use electrical insulation tape to cover the pins. the bouns of doing this on my D70 is The Camera now does not think that a flash is connected "but it is only via FIRE pin" so i can use shutter speeds outside X-SYNC not sure how Canons work when only fire pin is connected, i presume the same if the camera is not being told that a flash is connected. regards Craig
  24. Hi Alex just to confirm with the others really, i tested my new Z-240's, as you will know it has the Magnet switch built into the strobe and you simply push it in to switch it to pure manual. if i dont push this magnet switch in, it only outputs a small amount of light which no matter what i do to change it it simply will not alter its power. So I presume that with the magnet out, it thinks it has an a optical connection or a digicam attached.. Otherwise at full wack i've loads of power. I completely understand where your coming from regarding "I just want a strobe that does what I tell it too do" regards craig
  25. GUYS Dont be so DARN silly, of course this will work with other brand strobe's !!, what a task it would be to program and modify all their strobes so as to communicate with this converter to tell it that a Sea & Sea strobe is attached..........Come on... not very likely, the YS90 YS120 have been around for years and lots of people own them. Sea & Sea would simply not be bothered to test other brands with it, thats upto us. I suspect that the circuits are identical to Heinrich Weikamps or not HW OEM themselves as the settings are IDENTICAL Sea & Sea will just say that to get you to buy their brand strobes. its all about strobe timings, Its simply a electronic circuit. see HW site for information on strobe usage..and camera TTL timings you need fast cycle, preflash compatible strobes, such as INON Z-240 D-2000w/wn Sea & Sea 90, 110 120 depends on your camera timing, i'm using a D70 so i can just about use any strobe that is fast enough to preflash. if your on a D200 then you need the very latest strobes, Inon Z-240 D2000w Sea & Sea Ys110 Ryan @ Reef just tested a batch of HW circuits on Z-240 and D2000w and worked just fine. craig
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