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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. No Paul but Sea & Sea have an external ITTL conversion module due out at the end of this month This is an external circuit in an underwater package, much like the old GN controller, and you select you mode or TTL exposure compensation on that modes are ITTL with +/- 1 stop of EV either side of TTL flash - Manual. I'm getting one when available, it also has Dual Sync ports for 2 x single cords or 1 if you must use one strobe Details are on www.seaandsea.co.jp ... under the D200 accessories section. It is not just for the D200 i might add. regards Craig
  2. Hello folks Could anyone help me out with a PDF version of any of these manuals, Just got myself a couple of Z-240's but i'm not that good with Japanese text. I roughly got most of the functions but i'd like to understand fully Thankyou Kindly If you could email it to me at the address from my sebsite or PM me and i'll send you my email address craig
  3. Hi Udo I'm not exactly sure what the answer to that question is, I always Hard wire strobes either with a Y cable or if the Housing allows 2 cords. Ryan is your best bet with this answer. sorry craig
  4. Hi Ryan Your a complete star, Just what i wanted to hear !!!! so then i'll look forward to getting my new Z-240's Great shots as well !! regards craig p.s will order the Nexus Wet soon, thanks for the mail.
  5. HI Dave Thanks for that, Its just a concern of mine before I part with yet more cash on UWP gear. According to HM , the D-2000wn /w is fast enough to be usable by the D200 and their circuit. I just hope the Z-240 is of the same or better eletronics, the 1.6sec reycle time is very indictive of these guns being able to supply the goods craig
  6. Hello All Has anyone yet got their hands onto a Z-240 and tested it alongside their HM ITTL converter ? or indeed have the exact specs on these guns I've got the offer of a couple now, but as my plans for the Future are D200, if its not faster enough to cope with the D200 protocols then i'm stuck with guns that will ITTL with my D70 but not my D200 If they are the Same as the D-2000w then they will work, but if the new Z-240 is a step up Z-220 they will not work with D200 ITTL, they are too slow. Regards craig Information was gained via HM website
  7. Hi Nik shooter myself 105mm 12-24mm 10.5mm fisheye regards craig
  8. Great thanks sam. I'll get the 100mm version then. best wishes craig
  9. Hi I'm looking to get a hold of a Nexus wet lens for my Sea & Sea compact macro port s (32). any what one using one and what size have you found works. My ports external O/D is 102mm, do you think the plastic skirt on the 100mm version will adapt to 102mm, is it flexible enough. i know they do a 110mm. that will work , but i gota packout my port to allow use. Knowledge please craig
  10. HI All, I've been thinking about the reason for this. could it be the fact that because we cannot use TTL on our digital bodies the flash exposure compensation button does not perform a function. so those people that are banging out housings are just over looking the other important functions of this button. or could it be that, because most of our housing are so wired that the camera does not even know we have connected a flash gun to the hotshoe, so in such a case, if we depress the Flash Comp button, it will persistantly pop up the internal flash ? All this can be address , when finally the ITTL system is cracked and we can start to allow the camera to think it has indeed and external gun connected to the hotshoe. I've thought on many occasions about modifying my DX-70 with an ikelite control gland to cover this button, its a simple mod to do, but i'm not really sure i want to drill a hole in the top of my housing....... craig - just thinking aloud
  11. Hello your barking up the worng tree you need to set the YS120 even with a cable connected to SLAVE - ON, then set TTL on the exposure , not Manual, your seeing 1/2power hits as thats what you set, SLAVE - 1/2 the YS120 has cordless TTL Slave function, this means it can mimic whatever comes out of your other strobe as long as its of less power... SLAVE - TTL... I've used a YS90 Auto and a Duo 90 in cordless TTL slave mode, worked just fine, dont expect it to be 100% all the time though, fine for close-up macro work, but forget it for wide. craig
  12. HI Gary firstly the answer is NO, it will just trigger on the preflash phase to whatever you have set the manual power too on the SB-105 if your camera is capable of turning off preflash as the 5060 SP-350 7070 8080 are, (SLAVE flash mode) it works just fine, but it will need a fibre optic cable link up to trigger UW.. you then just use the manual power settings to control flash exposure, simple and it works second, they do work with heinrich/matthias converters i've just set up 2 units for friends with my old Sb-105. they can function in TTL preflashing and then Exposure flash, works 100% Perfect TTL exposures on Olympus 5060 & Sp-350 Get the Heinrich New Bulkhead replacement and come over to proper connections that are universal (NIKONOS) & still have TTL, easy craig
  13. Hi All i've just added my Ikelite Dual SB-105 to Nikon Bulkhead Sync Cable onto ebay just in case any of you are looking for such a unit. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...DME:L:LCA:UK:11 thanks craig
  14. HI Firstly, I You will need the Sea & Sea cord N to connect this strobe to you camera, The Sea & Sea 4 pin port is not Compatible with the 5 pins standard nikonos bulkhead. If your using a Sea & Sea 4 pin i suspect that you have previously used the YS60 or Ys50 with you TTL converter. Sorry to say, but i think you will need a New Digital Adapter 5 pin Nikonos style. regards craig better off trying Christain Weirkamp at HW for more information
  15. HI Good old SB-105 are easy to use in the cold uk waters.. even with my dry gloves on. craig
  16. HI Colin All looks great, good work. I'm just hanging on a little too see what Inon Come up with in comparison to Sea & Sea highlighting their ITTL converter. regards craig
  17. Hi Folks I just wanted to get your thoughts on Strobe arm config's for shooting WA only. I've always used either 8" - 4" Combo's or single 8" I quite like the use of a Single length one section arm when shooting wide. I'm just presently in thought of using UCLS 16" frames "one each side" or getting the system a little more rigid by adding the UCLS 5" dovetail base mounts and then adding my normal 8" section to that Anyone using this, and how are you finding it. will be throwing on my Sb-105's as per normal. regards craig
  18. HI Gary ok, here's my suggestion when i was using Olympus on a professional backup basis, here was my setup 5060wz with WA Epoque 20mm with a MIKE DIVE TTL converter (hard Wired) running Dual YS90 DUO's on a sea & Sea dual cable. Check out www.mike-dive.de for more information on the conversion scrcuit and hardware required. cost is about £130 it work perfectly and gave me excellent results. The Fl20 will be ok for macro work, but no good for wide work. if you dont fancy going down the TTL conversion route, then my suggestion is use a optical trigger system dual rig. something like dual ys90 or dual inon d2000 will work just fine. regards craig
  19. Guy's Guy's Guy's your barking up the wrong tree. MOST Modern TTL systems fire monitor preflashes, and olympus in no different than any other system. your using a dedicated gun a the slave trigger, IT WILL fire a monitor pre flash first, You may not be able to see it, its nothing like red eye. you just will not see it. why do you think we are all struggling with NIKON ITTL & Canon ETTL signal.. MONITOR PREFLASHES... we cant shut them off or else we will lose TTL The Old TTL systems just simply sent a quench signal to the flash to stop its ouptut. all new systems are much much more advanced in the way that TTL metering is acheived. I really cant see it it working, as the monitor preflash will trigger the YS90 prior to the actual exposure flash firing. Sorry again to burst the bubble craig
  20. Hello just to inform you that if your FL20 fires preflashes, which i think it will the YS90 will not work its just a simple slave mimic gun. it cannot detect or adjust for preflash so it will false fire when the FL20 fires. Sorry to burst the bubble. craig Although i does work rather well with any camera that dont use PREFLASH
  21. HI Rob Firstly Your thinking along the correct liine with your Aperture settings but F32 i dont think is going to be much use. I basically use upto F22 but mostly around F10-F16 for Max depth of field. Shooting A mode is not the best thing to do. When the nikon camera is placed into a mode other than M it will always try and balance your exposure or give you what it thinks is a correct exposure. now due to the fact that you might be using a 2 pin wired housing the camera wont even know that you have a flash present on you system so the balanced fill flash function will not work. The easiest way with maco is simply to preset using M mode. i tend to use F13 1/125 to start with and go with it from there using my strobes as the main light to paint the picture. Think about what the camera would do if you try using A mode, setting F13 @ iso 100 will give you about 1/15 or less underwater because the camera is giving you an exposure for what you are pointing it at and not knowing that you have 2x flash guns to provide the light for this shot. Hand holding a 105mm at 1/15 is only a recipe for BLURRED camera shaken images. use M on your camera and if you wish to adjust the background exposure of you shot you can reduce your shutter speed until you getting the desired effect, you can use the aperture a litte but remember that using aperture to control you background with do 2x things 1x reduce your Depth of Field 2x adjust the power of you flash your using inon guns so there is lots of settings for power adjustment, so you can drop a stop or two on aperture but watch the DOF . As for you using the 2x on a 105mm,,, remember you will get a 2 stop light loss, and an eqiv focal length of 300mm....!!! you have got to hand hold that, the age old rule of Shutter speed = Focal length of lens needs running through your head when using this combo. to be honest about it your better off using a wet dioptre or a close up filter, you will get no light loss then its no use shooting 1/60sec @ 300mm, you'll just get SHAKE. your DOF using the 2x will be very very shallow, so you'll try and use a very narrow aperture to increase the DOF, but you have a 2 stop light loss so you going to need to be VERY VERY close with those strobes to punch in light to make the shot when that 2x tele is attached when i used my 60mm with a 2x TC i found that using F10 to F8 often gave me the lighting result i was looking for but the DOF was extremely shallow. with all that then.. use MANUAL mode on the camera Aperture and strobe setting to control the exposure of your subject Shutter speed to address the background exposure of your shot and to compensate for SHAKE. happy shooting craig
  22. I simply refuse to use the cases like PELI. WHY ? Because they LOOK HEAVY, airlines have been clamping down for years on weight, if it looks heavy they will simply want to weigh it, not very often you can get your carry on to less than the standard 5kg so if it looks light and small then they dont ask to weigh it. I use Lowepro soft bag's & Rucksac's, And have yet never been asked to pop my bags onto the scales. When i used an Ikelite case, they were always hitting me, and often it had to go in the aircraft hold. another trick I use is to wear a really baggy pair or Pants (trousers) like combats with lots of pockets, and off load all my camera lenses into my pockets prior to check in, just in case they wish to weigh my bags. I dont like baggage handlers throwing £6000 worth of MY camera equipment around, I like to keep it with me that way it enjoys the journey just as much as I do, & i know its going to work when i arrive at my destination. Less delicate items such as Arm's, Cables, Ports Etc, goes into my checked luggage packed into HARD plastic storage boxes to protect it. regards craig
  23. Hello. I use 8" - 4" combo, this is enough for WA but i can break it down to just 4" for macro shooting. this is all held together with 3 ball clamps. 1x on housing handle 1x between the 4" & 8" arm segments & 1x between the last arm segment and strobe. Totally flexable lighting solution... lighting itself is totally user unique, it depends on your taste and the effect your trying to create. PHOTOGRAPHER = LIGHT PAINTER. top lighting with one strobe creates nice shadows in macro, shooting wide will require another approach, turbid waters require a different thought process. no hard and fast fix rules exsist. Play with you paints and create your art. regards craig
  24. Hi you may be a little confused about how these things tend to work i'll try and explain simply Nikon and Canon changed there electronic protocol for TTL into the ITTL ETTL system these is system will only run if you use a housed land flash or a gun that has the conversion curcuit built in or you housing is wired with a conversion circuit. most of us shoot manual flash because Its just as easy, Most housing are only wired with 2 pins connected on the hotshoe thus you can only fire a manual flash. they are wired in such a way because if we try and plug our current Nikon TTL protocol guns into a 5 wired bulkhead connector the camera locks up into an error. the only way that most people have manged to combat this is to only wire 2 pins up to trigger the flash, MANUAL Now there are some housings and flashguns around which contain conversion circuits. IKELITE, SUBTRONIC, SEACAM some are built into the flash gun, like subtronics and seacams others into the housing like ikelite to use a gun with a conversion circuit was must of preflash compatible guns that can cope with multi stroboscopic outputs. Ikelite DS Sea & Sea YS INON Dont get too worried about TTL because this digital is simple, you get instant feedback on flash level via the monitor screen on the camera. most of us now tend to enjoy shooting manual flash again rather than TTL because we get much more control of the final product if we shoot manual flash. hope this has helped you a little, its a long subject to type in and i dont wont to get more tecnical than need be. regards craig p.s you can use any old manual flash gun on a digital rig, the bulkhead just needs to wired correctly to allow you to do this. very simply
  25. Hi Ryan I tend to use AE LOCK & HOLD when shooting Aperture Priority. just my way. i tend to expose for the lighter surface waters, LOCK IT then recompose and shoot, this usually renders my background water a nice dark blue. craig
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