Jump to content

craig nelson

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. John I've seen it in your garage, Your car !!!. you got rid of your RED BEASTLY thing when you finally stopped blaming your camera. And i'm not talking about a NIK 5 here Please no comments about red beastly things either I think john like most of us, when we turn up on site and get the camera equpiment, it is very often the case that the cost of our equipment exceeds the cost of our cars !!. If I need it, I'll buy it !, "as long as it make economic sense" ... wicked. I keep telling sharon that it makes economic sense, but she's having none of it hope you and the family are well regards craig Maybe this underwater photography game is for SINGLE people... she says she'll Divorce me if i spend any more money on it.... Anyway i thought we should post pictures of our cars here's mine whilst i'm on dive site with a Tinny... You can tell can't you that i spend all my money on camera gear
  2. HI JOHN ! How True are your words. The man driving the Ferrari is not always the sharpest tool in the box, although he has plenty of money, he keeps getting speeding tickets. one day he will lose his driving licence ! or just maybe onday he'll learn to drive and stay with the laws, he will then become much wiser and keep his money in his pocket and get himself a city car. still does the same job with a lot let noise and cost... A WISE MAN ONCE SAID craig
  3. All true as well however can you actually fire off a 4 shot buffer with flash at 3FPS ? there wiill come a point surely when the flash cannot fire as all its power has been sucked and it needs to totally recycle. unless of course your shooting without flash then I see your point. don't know if that is worth this user spending another $2100 on a D200 housing I suppose it depends on your shooting style on what you encounter on a regular basis. like i say, If money is no object, then spend it to please. craig
  4. Hello Stephen I often used my second Sb-105 in slave manual mode. usually this would be in the macro situation as there is 100% certainty that it will behave as it should. i've recently done a little testing on my new 12-24mm zoomer, this was carried out in using 1x Sb-105 wired the other slaved on 8-4 tlc arms & all worked well take a look. simple pool test of myself holding the camera at me. the strobes were tested in lots of different position and worked 100% of the time. However , i must say that this was in a indoor pool that is quite dark, and that the camera is approx 1.5ft away from me. I've completed some testing a long time ago using a pair of Ys90 Duo in a typical WA situation with blue water around and it was HIT & MISS as the reflectance is very low to trigger the slave. Personally i always DUAL cable my SB-105's if shoot blue water WA shots, If i know i might have to disconnect a strobe underwater to say BACK LIGHT a subject with a strobe in a cave or similar, then i'll wire up with a single cord. hope this helped a little regards Craig
  5. Hello my answer to this is quite simple. If you want to keep on throwing good money at underwater photography then do by all means, but have it firstly !! just getting the best camera into a housing will not give you better pictures. I ALWAYS TELL MY STUDENTS, ALL CAMERAS CAN TAKE SNAPS, EVEN $4000 ONE'S, HOWEVER NOT ALL CAMERAS ARE CAPABLE OF PRODUCING PROFESSIONAL QUALITY IMAGES. THE FINAL RESULT IS OFTEN NOT THE CAMERA BUT THE USER. I see nothing at all wrong with your D70, i've been extremely happy with my OLD D70, Shooting RAW all the time and then doing the final enhancements when dry i've been very happy with everything. In the days when we used to shoot film, did we see any difference between images shot on a F90x, F5 or even F80, Nope it was the LENS the produced the sharp image and the photographer that pulled the trigger on his/her housing. IF YOU HAVE IT THEN FLAUNT IT, IF YOU HAVE NOT , THEN BE HAPPY. I'd just be happy with your wonderful housing and pop a wonderful camera back into it and allow you creative side to shine. regards craig. unless you have a few spare $$$ burning a hole in your pocket
  6. Hi Lambis the Sb-800 option is looking good all the time. A Hard choice. some hard testing needs to be done. regards craig
  7. HI Colin Totally agree there are some GOOD reasons for going with Sb800's I did see the cable on the fantasea website, thanks for that. now this is turning onto a real option, inon 2000w - ys-110 with Sea & Sea TTL adapter or SB800's ? i must say that looking at that little lot the SB800 wins because - You cant get pure manual and TTL with the inon switchable on a dive need WN - After Seeing recent pictures of Sea & Sea's TTL converter from Toyko show, makes my housing look like an ROV, - Sb800's well i get everything. mmmm regards craig how are you find strobe positioning using the housings and firbre cable colin, An issues ? do you possible have any shots you have taken tha have impressed you. regards craig
  8. HI Colin i remember talking to you at least a year ago regarding this subject. I've had the same thought myself and ran it by fantasea the other day, they admitted that it will work too. I've been giving it some long hard thought if at all it is worth the bother of me doing this. I use SB-105's at the moment and if i must be completely honest, there is nothing wrong with these dam good strobes. I just would like to get my setup running with FULL functionality. The Sb-800 Solution would make a nice setup as there are plenty of modes to choose from on this flash gun. Yes is could be under powered a little, but too be honest with you looking at the GN of the SB800 its not bad at all, and i have to be honest and say that i've NEVER shot my SB-105s at full power in a wide angle shot. so the aurgument of lack of power is frankly not on the agenda for discussion. for shooting macro, the SB800 would be fine, for wide angle from MAX 3ft away i cant see any reason why there would not be enough power. my only concern is that could 2x SB800's cover the 10.5mm fisheye from 3 FT away. i need to test this but i dont have 2 sb800 at present. Thanks so much colin its nice to hear of other people thinking along the same lines as me. regards craig
  9. The answer is simply NO the D100 is based on the F80, I have an NX-80 housing, it simply will not fit in, the body on the D100 is much taller. however, of no use to you i can get my D100 into my D70 housing, and work most of the functions, enought to finish a shoot with anyhow. you may well find that it could fit an ikelite housing for the F80, but as james said, you can pickup a used D100 housing for the same cost as a F80 housing. and you will need to address the hotshoe in the F80 as all five wires are connect to the bulkhead, the D100 will lock up with that connected, simple to address though. regards craig
  10. HI Having worked in the Motor Car Paint industry for sometime, (a long time ago) i can tell you that, Normal Spray paint (aerosol) is generally CELLULOSED based, It will not hurt you housing at all but then again it will not really stick to it, it will appear to but will fall off after a short time. you will more than likey have to address the area with an etching based primer firstly to give a good STICK to the metal, then apply a coat of 2 pack paint if you can get your hands on some. the best thing to do is to pop over to you local car sprayer and ask him if could have the left overs from his WHITE jobs. Now 2 pack paint has a Half life, once mixed with its hardener it will only last a few hours then it hardens off rapidly. so you need to stick around there or ask him/her to give you a call when they have mixed some up and TAKE BEER for them as a gift of thanks. you might find that most housings our what we call POWDER COATED. regards Craig
  11. Yep I go with mike often like to shoot only with one for some nice shadows. craig
  12. yeh i think we did James ... i seem to recall a posting a short time ago, craig
  13. Hi again Ted just a few notes on shooting macro - use manual on your camera and shoot apertures above F8 for MAX depth of field as the DOF with macro lenses can be as much as 1cm , so you need to close the aperture a little to get the best DOF. Use a shutter speed that is 1 to 1 with your lens. so if using a 105mm use 1/100 or 1/125 or faster this will ihelp nhibit any camera shake. I usually just go in preset with 1/125 and F11 if you use aperture priority or Program the camera will always try and balance the light of your shots and almost certain it will use F5.6 down to 2.8 to get the exposure correct. it does not take into account that you will be using flash as well. Most macro work is TOTALLY exposed with flash . we just set the camera manually to suit our lens - subject matter - DOF and then use either TTL or manual flash to expose the picture. just one more note, on macro lenses, take a look through any lens once on your SLR and you are looking through it at MAX aperture WIDE OPEN, now focus in on somthing real close, take a look around the view finder and note just how much of the area is out of focus, that because we are looking through a F2.8 aperture. Now if you camera has DOF preview button crack the aperture to F16 and press it. The screen has gone dark, yes, but now you are looking through a F16 aperture (SMALLER) but not how much of the picture has now come into focus from your focus area. (A LOT MORE). so using very wide apertures like F2.8 3.5 5.6 will give you what you percept as a BLURRED image, Not really its just that the DOF is so so shallow. again i hope that helped a little. anymore questions just ask away. regards craig
  14. Hello Ted Not sure if you have already made your purchase. I'm a nikon user myself. but I'll pass on what i can to you. The sigma 105mm is a great lens, i've used one for a couple of tests and is pin sharp. The AF is a little on the slow side but thats not too worry you. The 60mm is also a very nice lens and if its USM it will focus much faster than the 105mm from sigma. In terms of Use A True Macro lens will be able to give you a reproduction ratio of 1:1 or LIFE SIZE. that is if you take a picture of a Coin at 1:1 it will be exactly the same size on a 35mm frame than it is in real life... 1:1 LIFE SIZE Now each macro lens has its minimum focusing distance MFD in which it can capture this 1:1 image The 105mm and the 60mm are capable of capturing 1:1 the difference is The MFD of a 60mm 1:1 is about 26cm The MFD of a 105mm 1:1 is approx 38cm so if you can get close enough with a 60mm for a 1:1 shot and its 1:1 that your looking for you have got to get in real close. If you dont think you can get all that close then the 105mm will let you stand off a little but can produce 1:1 from further away. Now this is not always good as if we are further away we have more water infront of our lens, thus distroying image quality a little if its muddy that is. its a really hard choice sometimes, if the subject is very small and i cant get right into them i use a 105mm if i know i can get close in like say.. "CLOWN FISH" then i normally go with a 60mm as the closer i get the better the quality. if its fish you trying to capture, the 105 can be better, as you can stand off that little bit and not scare them away, thus preventing the classic images of FISH TAILS. hope this helped Ted regards craig
  15. Hello Martin The proof will be in your images, take a few test shots and see how they come out. not sure what wide angle lens you have or how it fits on the housing. dont be too over critical prior to a test. If you happy with what comes out of the test, then be happy with you setup. if the lens can be used on land try shooting a plain brick wall, and examine that on your PC take a good look all around the edges for vignetting (dark shadow). you might find that it only appears in one place, this will be the result of your displacment, But dont get it confused with total lens Vignetting as would occur with most digital compacts when a 0.7x converter is added, you always normally need to zoom in a little to get rid of the vig as its simply because your angle of view now exceeds your housing angle of view. regards craig
  16. well thats not completely true. its all depends on how much film you shoot and then you need to add the cost of the processing when I was shooting film & still do i used upto 20-30 rolls per 2 week trip. so take into account 25 rolls of Fuji Provia @ £4.50 a roll = £125.00 now the cost of process and mount at a pro lab = 25 x £7.50 =£187.5 Total = £312.00 you can almost buy a Nikon D50 for that each time i undertook a two week trip. do a couple or three of them a year and you have a housing... Film is not cheaper.. Digital is actually. Now i can shoot a 1GB card of 178 images every dive and it cost me £0.... i dont charge myself for my own time.. well i do really i buy more camera gear total cost of the pictures for a 2 weeks trip £0 total cost of my digital gear £3000 or there about total cost of my film gear £3000 or there about its cheaper to shoot digital. once you get you hands on a setup. regards craig BUT I use either Provia 100 or Sensia 100 it depends on the Job.
  17. YEH some BIG LUMPS of metal boys and girls. Hope they are airline carry on size and weight. I THINK NOT !! its fine having the kit, But we gota get it to the site and avoid the EXCESS BAGGAGE MONSTER i thought technology was getting smaller but nice to see activity. I'd like to get my hands on one of those TTL conversion units from Sea & Sea. regards craig
  18. Has anybody been to the show over the weekend ?, can you report on any new items that are impending on us. "before i rush out and buy some new strobes" regards craig
  19. Hi Julian sorry julian , i jumped ahead a little there didn't i, your assumption is correct. when i was shooting film , i intended to get myself a flash meter, there was a few companies doing them mainly in the USA, professional TV camera companies were the main sources that were popping up on net searches. http://www.cameraservice.com/rental/camera/hydro_3.htm i wish you luck with your search craig
  20. HI Julian ok you could take a look at this http://uk-germany.com/ http://uk-germany.com/english/bmg.html they have a unit from Gossen listed in their accessories section. as well as the ikelite one of course , which is basically a polaris meter. regards craig
  21. Hello. I would suggest that you mount the light onto the YS-60 using inner tube rubber. this will serve 2 functions for you 1 - act as a focus light 2 - as a strobe aim light not sure what system you use or housing. regards craig
  22. HI Paul I know you used to be a Nikon user yourself, and myself, I used to be a canon user in them days of FILM never had a siggy fail on me, more than likey because as your discription says, i've only ever used them underwater and not really worked them hard. after switching to nikon a number of years ago, my 60mm & 105mm used to alarm me with motor noise as i was not used to this coming over from a 20mm USM (canon) , which well for my deaf ears, was silent. I suppose it really all depends on budget, what your happy to spend on glass, and what you want from your final images. I remember the days when i never would have entertained the use of a ZOOM lens. my nikon 20mm was the bee's knee's, then i moved over to digital. I now actually find myself quite happy to use Zoomers, Strange , maybe the overall quality from the glass men has gone up. Even JB is using a 12-24mm and John was a 20mm fundamentalist. Very funny how things change, But my words to this post would be if you have it spend it, if you dont ,then take a look at the other makes. The internet and this list has been such an incredible resource for UWP's. We can now obtain information from those people who have first hand use of the equipment we are looking at purchasing. So Post every and enjoy the replies. regards craig
  23. Hello I agree sorry with eric. Never underestimate the so called "underdog" Sigma make some dam FINE glass. the 155FE is one of the best i ever did use, their 105mm macro gets fab reviews. If you on a budget, take a long hard look at sigma. i've shot with a 24mm F2.8 siggy for many many magazine articles, and its TACK SHARP i love it. i've never used the 50mm 1:1 sigma, but i'd certainly have NO reservations in purchasing one if i needed a 50mm. Like all lens suppliers each makes excellent glass and also each make glass that is only fit for the trash can. regards craig
  24. hello I have used a Sigma 80-400 OS/VR, nice focus is faster than the Nikon, and all the reviews say the optical quality is the same. however it is a brut, but has a totally usable tripod collar, unlike the nikon, which is a little on the poor side. regards craig... ah and the sigma is much cheaper.
  25. HI Jack Sea & sea are planning on showing their new products at the tokyo show, i think it starts this week according to a banner on there japanese site which i was able to translate this Ys-110, D-200 & 5D housing are also to be shown at this show. Dont know when they will be in the shops but i did read somewhere that April was the intended date. I do hope it prior to then as i'd like to take a look at the YS-110 myself prior to my trip to borneo. regards Craig
  • Create New...