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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. Lovely shot matt. after reading the thread from the above posting i find myself thinking of Sea & Sea YS-110 why. it all sounds Far too complex, TTL + MANUAL - AUTO - TTL.. I just want to run Inon with a ITTL converter from HM and switch from ITTL to REAL MANUAL mode and back again. on the Strobe. just like my Sb105's used to on my F80. Not sure if it at all sounds possible with this strobe. maybe the Wn version is whats needed for this What the Hell have Nikon Done to us, it was so so simple with the OLD TTL signal how come fuji did the S2pro but the might of NIKON had to think of a way to confuse us folks that shoot underwater. never mind , I await a solution , it will come one day, then i'll buy it, only if i need it Why do i consistantly wish to change the things i know work well, Maybe i'll just keep with my Sb-105's and keeping shooting good old Manual. I think its my salary burning a hole in my pocket !! I need to get some children around me, That will stop the burning and itching craig
  2. Hi Lambis Yes , thats just about what i make of it all... FILM USERS ONLY-- EH craig
  3. HI all could users or people in the know please pass on a little information regarding these new strobes I'm looking at getting a couple of new guns, want to use with ITTL converter (HM) What i want is quite simple. Lots of TRUE Manual settings and TTL (ITTL) with converter. After trying to read the specs on the D-2000w i find myself a little confused as to the functionality of this item it appears to have 2 group settings only selectable on land prior to the dive 1* TTL AUTO + MANUAL this appears to not be as it reads not true manual but some kind of limiter setting for the TTL like EXP compensation. 2* APERTURE AUTO FLASH - MANUAL this appears to be the true MANUAL with lots of GN settings. Aperture auto in built into the gun. The d-2000wn appears to say that either of these modes can be selected underwater. Maybe just getting Inon 220s is a better option for my needs Could user supply their findings please Kindest regards Craig
  4. YES put it on MANUAL then you can use all your strobe settings or you can use the manual controller in the housing to fine tune your exposure Craig
  5. Hi Trevor FORGET what the Sea & Sea website says, Most of its correct, but most of its incorrect also. Like all things there are many different solutions to problems. not all will be equal , some inferior some superior. The Sea & Sea suggestions of Flat port will work. But , Whats the point in taking a 18mm and slapping it behind a flat port to have it magnified by 25%. NUMBER 1 rule in this game, GET CLOSE. cut out as much water from between your subject and your camera. we can't step back as on land to capture an image as anything above 3ft away and we have so much water that the image quality is compromised. (except those natural light WA of course). so we have a lens bag that can allow CFWA (close focus wide angle) for the best quality in our images. if you use a 18-55 behind a flat, all you doing is having to step back to do any wide angle work thus compromising the quality of the final image. it ends up being 33mm - 70mm lens with crop and refraction factor. fine for fish, but it suck for a general WA to Close lens as for the extension ring M8, its all down to experience and knowledge of what works and a ruler the 40 extension ring refers to 40mm extension and the 22 - 22mm. Trust me. It works. i'm sure the 18-55 will serve you we'll as my 18-70 does as a general shooter for WA and larger fish stuff. i really enjoy using my 18-70mm. for ultra wide (weitwinkel) stuff i've a 10.5mm nikkor and i use a 12-24mm F4 Tokina ATX-PRO then for macro 60mm & 105mm. regards Craig, Trevor , i live in staffordshire, if you wish to check out my system, you more than welcome to pop up and take a look and play.
  6. HI all got the above forsale. all as new and unmarked mint. Offers please... sensible ones that is regards craig
  7. Trevor Who told you to put a 18-55 behind a flat port ! COMPACT DOME PORT, that will sort it out, save the flats for MACRO craig No Arguments please from anyone, i'll have none of it.. me heads in the sand on this topic
  8. Hi All Just wanted to find out if anyone, Actually managed to HARD wire a pair of SB-800's and run them in ITTL. I remember reading some interesting post's a long time ago, but the list has gone quite on results. Thanks Craig
  9. I second matt I'm going to go with 2x Inon 2000w when i get the chance ( I think) the new Sea & Sea 110 looks good as well, 10 steps of control so they say and ITTL compatible , with a converter of course. regards craig
  10. Lambis Looks like the inon's will come in at GN 22m @ 100 iso LAND so Underwater we are dealing with GN11 rough exposure table based on 100 iso will give you this set of distances Strobe to subject distance = GN/F-Stop (100 iso) F22 = 0.5m F16 = 0.7m F11 = 1m F8 = 1.4m F5.6 = 2m F3.5 = 3.1m ... too far away anyway for a quality image F2.8 = dont bother again too far away . these are all at FULL power. @ 200 iso we will be using 0.7m @ F22 and so on down the listing. regards craig p.s these are to EXPOSE the subject with flash, if you wish to balance the subject with flash then you must be at least 1 or 2 stops less than your chosen aperture so in effect if i was using a F8 and i was balanced exposure with my flash i would use the setting of 5.6 or 3.5 on the strobe power or AUTO mode.. this will output less light and only highlight your subject and not EXPOSE it . your only trying to put back in loss of colour and highlights with your strobe during a Balanced exposure. craig
  11. Lambis If you ever wish to take a visit over here, your more than welcome around my place. The waters cold and murkey, but the information will be good.. When are you next getting over to egypt ? could try and arrange a meeting I've got place left on a great trip to Borneo (sipdan-mabul-kapalai) in May if you fancy coming along on that. regards craig
  12. Oooopppsss i forgot guys to say.. I'm a Sea & Sea user, So i can use whatever shutter speed i like as the camera doesn't even know there is a flash plugged in and turned on. only 2 pins are connected in my housing that gives my a full shutter speed range. Those of you that are ITTL users you may find that you cannot exceed the 500/sec sync speed in the D70 Not sure how yours in rigged Lambis as your an nexus user. should you wish information on how to get the full range shutter speed please email me off list and i can send you a diagram on which pins to cover up on the hotshoe to trick the camera. Happy Shooting Craig
  13. HI Guys OK AS for GN, flash guns are usually quoted for there land value @100 ISO for underwater in good conditions divide it by 2. if the conditions are worse as my river was, then / 3 As the d70 is 200 Iso do your normal calculations and then close the aperture setting by 1 stop ... or simply go to the next narrower setting aperture than your calculations give you for 100 ISO hope your with me, we all agree that 200 iso is 1 stop faster than 100 iso yeh .... so if i get F8 in my power calc 100 iso , then i use F11 at 200 Iso.... Most exposure tables supplied with guns will ALWAYS tell you the GN of the strobe somewhere in the table. Lambis, You really dont need a powerful gun for working Wide angle close ups using medium apertures like F8. In the days gone by of FILM and Xsync Speeds of 180/Sec we had to have powerful guns, Why, well if we dealt with a sunburst then we needed to control the exposure with Aperture as our shutter speeds were fixed at max 180 or 200/sec depending on camera. it was aperture that controlled the sunball so we would use and need powerful guns to hit light onto our subjects as our aperture often ended up being very narrow F16 or F22 now if using a GN gun of 10... divide this by 22 and see what you get.... MACRO CLOSE... so we needed portable SUN'S down there. But what do we have now... A D70 with whatever shutter speed we dam well like... WICKED we can use this now to control the background exposure and use aperture to control our flash distance and exposure.. and also we are dealing with 200 ISO all the time, so we gained 1 stop of light back. even better. Hope you all followed that... I've found that my SB-105's are quite ample in dealing with all subject matter. Remeber the name of the game..... GET CLOSE & REMOVE AS MUCH WATER BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR SUBJECT MATTER. Regards to all after my little rant craig
  14. Hello Lambis OK here is what i do when i want to simulate that a diver is deeper than they actually are. firstly i'll address the strobe power. Quite simple, If you exposing your subject with strobe power alone the usual calculations work F-stop = GN of Strobe / Distance strobe is away from your subject. or simply just use the exposure table on your flash gun, not always 100% accurate but you can adjust either strobe power, F-stop or falsh distance to suit your foreground exposure. As for your background just wack up the shutter speed, and try and get a slightly downward (if no bottom) or Level shot in , Dont involve the suface if possible. see this example please excuse the steam up in the mask, But if you should increase the shutter speed a little more then the background would have been totally black. others here Yes i know that these images of Cave Diving look like they are shot in a Cave... That was the purpose for this magazine article. However looks can fool.. they were shot in a RIVER OUTSIDE... Near to the cave opening, as couldn't be bothered to lugg all my kit up the side of a hill. I hope i wasn't telling you to suck eggs with all of this. regards Craig
  15. NA I'd keep em, get a HM converter if you must use TTL, Nothing wrong with them.. craig
  16. Hi I would just like to have the Functionality of an Sb-800 with a nice GN so that i can choose MANUAL ITTL APERTURE AUTO But i'm totally considering getting myself a pair of Inon 2000-W when they arrive in the shops along with a matthias converter. Regards Craig
  17. HI Lambis Dam shame that the DS125 hasn't got wireless slave built in, you could have triggered it with a smaller unit on the camera housing "any strobe" I think cheap tripods will be just fine for you DS125. Lambis you could always use an openair swimming pool with that Big flash gun called the SUN for overhead lighting. But on the other hand in Jan in sweden... best not eh, or you'll all end up in Hospital. I would suspect that somthing like a HID Metal Halide light would do an excellent job, nice and crisp 10.000k light (depending on model), there are plenty of OUTDOOR units available. Have fun Craig. Cool stuff james..
  18. Hi I'm sure you have read my posting in the message below this one on the list The More paints you have the better art you are able to make As julian Said, its a matter of covering the lens you have. its no use having 1x if your trying to cover a 10mm lens. I tend to use one strobe when shooting Macro as i can create some nice shadows with direct over the top light from a single gun but i'd never shoot wide with one strobe. Underwater wide shots tend to have more than one subject, you going to need two lights to tackle 2 subjects and light it correctly. Not sure what stage of photography you are at, but we all must start at some point. if you can only afford 1x strobe then use that as best you can, i recommend that you use a aiming light with one strobe so that your placement is correct. I've just come back from the Maldives and found that my 18-70mm was very good, small life out there is limited but larger pleagics are plentyful happy shooting & have a great time craig
  19. EXACTLY MY MAN Photographer = LIGHT PAINTER !! Use your paints in a creative fashion and buy creative paints ... Look forward to seeing your efforts regards Craig
  20. Hi Tom Its always good to have a wonderful model. My wife can actually read my mind, she tends to know exactly what i'm looking for in an image. we always have a chat prior to the dive "argument" on what i'm looking for. At first its also very good to try and get some knowledge into there head on just how flash works and that infact its very dumb and it only knows to ouput at a given setting and it cant turn corners or bend. A good example I often give is, if she can see my flash guns then the light will enter her mask, if she cant then she must reposition herself accordingly. I've already obtained the optimum postion for the shot, so i cant move, but she can and her head can. Tom i actually just used a 8" section with 2 balls on that shot, it was at 46mm according to my RAW , hence the DOF is quite shallow. You would actually be quite suprised what you can do with just a simple arm rig, it was made easier due to the fact the her face is roughly on the same plane as the frogfish. If you think about strobe arms they dont just actually go up and down, they can swing out and around at 180o as well. you can push a strobe through a 16" distance from front to back. As i was using 46mm this narrows the field of view dowm quite a lot dont forget the 1.5x crop on top of that so even if i pushed one strobe well well forward you still wouldn't see it in the frame. see drawing again below The reason it was shot at 46mm was due to the fact the i couldn't get myself any closer to the frogfish without doing damage to the reef. Obviously when shooting 10.5 or 12mm you have limited use of pushing the strobes forward due them ending up in the frame Happy shooting Craig
  21. Hi Lambis Ok here's my thoughts again. You hit the nail on the head with the Studio Setup. I think you would more than likely do the best job if you could use some lighting from above the water and use a black canvas backdrop using underwater guns for SAFETY Its all trial and error work, You could mount 2 or 3 slave units just above the water or just under the surface if you not planning on getting the surface in the shot on a pole rig system so that each end rests onto the pool side "Keep it simple" see my drawing. I'd use a gun with built in slave like YS120 Ys90 or as big as i could get. Everthing shot in MANUAL. Using the figures quoted by ikelite for the DS125 the GN = 10m Underwater. If we used an aperture of 5.6 this would give us as working exposure distance of approx 1.75m (GN / F-stop = Strobe to subject distance). You could always lift up the pole to suit the lighting output by simply placing boxes under the pole at each end until you get the desired output of cast downlight your looking for. then i'd attack it with a single light underwater for fill in and slave triggering and see what you get Real shame we dont live in the same country as i'd love to have a crack at this with you just for fun. regards craig
  22. Hi Guys If you will permit me i'd like to show you just a few more sample images of wide portrait work and strobe usage. Not the greatest images i might add but this was the first time i took the D70 into the water. I'll try and explain my mind set with each image for those that require explanation. In all of these shots the Nikkor 18-70DX was used. the above shot, you will see that my wife is actually quite some distance back from the reef and the anthias that she is looking at. This is problem in itself for lighting. My lighting came from 1x strobe at the 12 oclock position giving cast downlighting onto the reef section of the image. The other strobe was based at 3 oclock as per the image drawing above in this post. the power output of this strobe was increased due to the distance that light had to reach and return. It was then again pushed forward as much as i could allow to keep it out of image and angled almost directly at Her Face to remove mask shadow and bring back colour. Strobes in this shot were now pulled into the 9 & 3 oclock positions very tight into the camera and power adjusted. The right strobe obviously reduced because the coral in the frame was the close subject matter. the left strobe did the work on the divers face. This shot was a little different that the others, both strobes were now moved over to the left hand side due to the angle of the divers face, if one had been allowed to come in from the right it would have cast horrible mask shadows. So both were used on the left, say a 10 & 11 oclock position. one being place higher than the other angled onto the clownfish, the other, cast from slightly above and out to the right to get light in to that mask. Ok final image. Not at all happy with this one due to MASK FOG in a new mask that my wife is wearing but the lighting example is good. The subject matters here are at totally different angles and were treated the following way. Portrait - 1 strobe was used to deal with the coral lighting from the almost 12 oclock position as you can see the shadow cast under it, the other strobe would have been over in the 4 -5 oclock position pushed well forward to avoid as much stray light on that coral. My wife's face is actually angled downward which creates a large shadow in that mask. so the second strobe needs to cast light at a slightly upward angle. Hope this has been again of some use to those that require the knowledge Happy shooting Craig
  23. Hi Lambis I've never done this type of photography, but looking at these images from zena the lighting could be coming from external rig's place above the water as the shadows in the second image show that lighting may well have been from above and then fill flash added just to enhance. As for the black backgrounds, It could be as simple as a fast shutter speed manual exposure , But i wouldn;t put it past zena to use a weighted black canvas as the backdrop, much as a studio would use one. if i was going to try it , i firstly give it a go with 3 strobes, 2 strobes based as slave units way out to the sides of the model so that light was cast side ways into the subject, and then using a unit attached to the camera for the trigger just as a slight fill in. For a totally professional job then i'd be rigging up external above water lights and add a little underwater. All just my opinion of course, Never done it , but i wish you the best of luck with it, love to see what you manage to get. as most of your work tends to be with free divers you model shouldn't have much of a problem holding her breath !! regards Craig
  24. Hi Tom, Ok i'm back at the Desk The Configuration for that second shot was this Nikon D70 , Nikon 18-70DX AF-S with +4 Dio and Dual Sb-105 running in Manual the strobes would have been placed as follows as this would be my normal method the 12 oclock strobe would have been placed lighting downward onto the frog fish. more than likely set to 1/16 power as the aperture was quite wide. The other strobe was angled to light my wife's face whilst trying to reduce mask shadows and as she was a distance back from the Frogfish that strobe would have been set to 1/4 power pushed well forward to avoid over lighting the frogfish. As i said above, it's just a matter of taste with lighting, there is no right or wrong way just an opinion. When dealing with portraits involving divers you need to pay great attention to there position in the shot. Try and get them as near or the same distance as your subject matter so they get the same amount of light cast and look in perspective. You can adjust the output of light from your strobes to suit what your looking for, but you must have a well set scene to start with. AND SHOOT MANUAL My normal configuration of strobe arms would be 1x 8" section with this mounted via 2x balls 1.camera 1x strobe. if I need a little more adjustment i'll use 1x8" 1x4" and the balls. Just too add one more note, You will find when shooting WIDE and CLOSE you will need to pull the strobes in towards the camera a little so to avoid a cast shadow in the centre of your shot. Hope some of my opinions have helped you guys out, if you have any more questions please ask away if you would like to see some more images then please visit www.aquimaging.co.uk gallery section. Regards Craig
  25. Hi Marcus & Tom firstly to answer you question Marcus hope you find this picture drawing informative, I use many variations of these positions to obtain just what i want. Tom thanks for you comment, I'll post up how a little later, as i'm due to shoot off out. I just wish i'd shot it at about F11 to give a little more DOF, my wife's face is a little soft, but that just add's to the picture as well as your eye goes to the frogfish firstly then onto the face. speak soon craig
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