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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. HI Basically the rule i tend to use with this subject is, Light it as you like it. when i portrait the camera i often tend leave one arm as it was positioned as the normal 9-3 oclock. and set the other so it would give say a 12-3 oclock position. I hope your following me, However, Its all a matter of personal taste and subject matter If you dealing with Divers as most of my work is with divers, i adjust the light to suit, as its the face that requires some specific attention here so the lights are adjusted to reduce shadow created by the mask. If i'm dealing with the reef in portrait fashion, I'll often just leave the strobe set as they were for landscape.. A good subject for discussion, there is simply no hard rule. its all to taste. "Paint your subject with light and be creative with your paints" Regards Craig examples below this above shot has been done as a portrait the strobes where simply just left in their normal positions as per landscape and the whole lot rotated Now we are dealing with mulitple subjects here, so the strobes where adjusted to suit as the divers face is also as important as the Frogfish in this shot
  2. Hey Mike Nice to hear from you , Thanks for the information, I've push robert onto getting a Ys90 and one of your TTL converters. So that clears is all up regards craig
  3. Hi Trevor and mike firstly Mike, So is the 18-70 ring made for front end zoomers, However with the addition of a little Felt stickyback plastic to the internal and the rear of the ring it fits like a glove. Just get a Nikon 18-70 ring and a tokina 12-24mm and its sorted, Canon or nikon the lens is still the same. In my Dx-70 housing the zoom gear mesh is at the rear of the lens as per most of the sea & sea housings. Trevor, No intend to test this lens without a Filter, After some test shots yesterday, its not going to need a filter. The optics are totally wicked, very sharp and is built as per normal like a tank, the zoom ring on the lens is like silk, wonderful. regards craig
  4. Hi folks this is on behalf of a mate of mine. Looking at getting one of these strobes, Does anyone have a PDF format MANUAL for this strobe. Details on functions are not very good on websites. Questions are I understand that this flash has 3 settings listed AUTO LOW AUTO HIGH ON from what i can see, auto low deals AUTO flash in the LOW aperture Numbers selectable, AUTO HIGH deal with the higher Aperture End what does the ON function do.. Is this a MANUAL mode, and then you adjust the GN of the gun using the Power/f-stop Selector ? Thanks in Advance Craig & Robert
  5. HI All FYI. folks after my previous thread on this subject when some of you may have read, i've taken delivery today of my 12-24mm The NIKON 18-70mm Zoom Gear FITS THIS LENS LIKE A GLOVE. so even though sea & sea refuse to make a zoom gear for this lens, you can just go ahead and use the stock 18-70 item. I'm now a happy chap thanks to all who posted in the previous thread craig
  6. Hi Trevor. Nice to conversate with someone so close to home. As for you question on the 18-55, I'm sure it will work without a dioptre, as the 18-70 does anyway and from your figures it will focus a little closer. Nice of S&S to produce a gear, I've bashed them for a month now to get it together and produce 10-20mm and 12-24 tokina zoom rings. without success. would i be correct in thinking that you have a D50 in mind ?, only reason i say is because the 18-55 is being shipped with that camera. Back to the dioptre. you are only going to need a +2 if anything on the 18-55 for sure as it focuses quite close anyway. I use Hoya close up's just the normal ones. you'll find that trying to get a HMC Hoya in anything above 62mm is quite hard. I use warehouse express for all my filter needs, they have a huge stock range and excellent service. regards craig
  7. Hi Trevor I've actually been back and forth with using zooms I first started out using zooms, then required better image quality and moved onto Fixed lenses. Now in the days of Digital I actually find it very nice to use a zoom again from time to time. I use zooms when i'm not sure what i'm going to encounter whilst underwater. If i make the decision to shoot wide but dont know the dive site or marine life, i tend to use a zoom like 18-70 as this can cover quite a lot of shots. If i know what i'm shooting (work) then i tend to use a fixed focal like 15mm or 20mm or 10.5mm as most of my work involves divers so CFWA and quality is what i need. I do however find myself going for the zoom more often than not, the quality is still just fine for upto A3 prints and magazine articles at A4. I've never had a magazine turn down any image that i've shot with a zoomer, I dont think they would even know in fact. There is nothing in-exact about it, you use what works for you, +2 or +4 or no Dioptre. Most of the new wide zoomers out these days will work without the addition of a filter, But and there is a BUT, there are people and Alex is one that will vout for using close up filters as they actually serve to improve image quality and edge sharpness. You just have to do some testing with your own setup until you reach what your happy with. I've just got a 12-24mm, i'm sure its going to become a favorite. testing will begin without using a filter and i'll move on from there. But i think most will agree, there is a certain QUALITY which comes along with Prime lenses. regards Craig
  8. Hi James Exactly , Thats why i wanted the External OD of the teeth of a Ikelike zoom gear,If its around 87mm it will work, the teeth need to be approx 2mm high and there is 85 of them. i've been given the number of a plastic gear manufacturer here in the Uk by Mark Webster and they are most helpful its only $6 for a gear that i hope i can get to work if all else fails. i think i will order an ikelite gear and hope for the best regards craig
  9. Thanks everyone, Your input is most helpful I'm quite ready to doctor with foam tape any dam ring i can get to fit..., I even thought of cutting my 18-70 ring in half and clamping that around the zoom ring of the 12-24mm its must work.....IT WILL WORK regards craig I will post my findings and solutions when i crack it.
  10. Hi All Could anyone please supply the following information for me please I'm trying to get a Zoom Gear for the Tokina 12-24mm working in my Sea & Sea housing. If anyone has an ikelite 5509.28 gear sleeve could you pass on the following diamensions please External OD - Internal OD - amount of teeth on the sleeve external - size of teeth on the sleeve. or if anyone is using a 17-40mm Sea & Sea gear the INTERNAL OD of that please. Thanks in advanced regards Craig its a real pitty S&S cant be bothered to make a gears for some of the new excellent lenses out there, I did contact them a while ago and was told that we would have some on the shelves. But it appears they have changed their minds and now say they have NO plans to produce.. Boooooo for sea & sea...
  11. Pitty the dam buggers cant get around to making up some zoom rings for sigma 10-20mm tokina 12-24mm Come on sea & sea get your fingers out and submit to demand. I WANT THEM regards craig
  12. Hi All For me LESS IS BEST, IF YOU DONT NEED IT DONT TAKE IT i use the following which streamlines the kit 60mm Micro - Compact macro port base and Compact macro port 35 (s) 105mm Micro - Compact macro port base - 40 Extension ring - Compact macro port 35 (s) 1 port ,1 extension ring, 1 base. fits all my lenses and is light and compact to travel with. I then use compact dome port for all WIDE stuff and Coupled with the 40 extension ring fits all ZOOM lenses. carrying 2 ports - 1 extension ring - 1 compact macro base does the LOT - SIMPLE all gears for Manual focus are available to use if i wish to do so, controlled from the DX70 housing.... regards craig
  13. HI I use the 18-70 DX to great effect on my Sea & Sea DX70 combo is Compact Dome port with 40 extension ring & +4 Dioptre. see images below for samples I dont think sea & sea make a zoom gear for 18-55, 18-70 is covered as i use it. 18-70 is the better choice regards craig
  14. Sorry for the confusion Julian. I thought i saw a posting from you a while ago, saying that you Dremelled a 105 ring to use with your 10-20mm... My Mistake. regards craig
  15. HI You might just find that this lens is bang on the limit and will be hit and miss unless you use a Dioptre. its MFD is 28cm and that will be at its widest end i guess. so once you move away from 17mm this distance will increase , thus the lens will not focus.. you could try adding a +2 to it and see if that solves the problems. Even though sea & sea don't list using a +2 ,you are having issues, so its worth a try. Other UW systems might work just fine, they are all different after all. regards craig
  16. Hi Lambis, Sorry to hear about all your troubles with the 16mm anyway just to boost your confidence a little, I'll tell you that I use Sea & Sea , I only own a COMPACT dome port, Roughly same size as the Ikelite units and Subal smaller domes. I've never had an issue with either 15mm FE or my old 16mm Nikkor working behind it whatsoever. i always thought that if the lens was capable of focusing closer than 12" then it would not require any additional closeup filters. This has held quite true for me. I can use my 18-70 AF-S behind the compact dome and an extension ring and it will work just fine. I hope you manage to sort out this issue, Best of luck. Regards and all the best for 2006 craig p.s Julian if your reading this, can you tell me what 105 focus ring you used to work with your 10-20mm ... Nikon 105 or sigma 105 ?.. with the dremel of course.
  17. I'm Using the Kenko Pro 300 DX. seems fine to me, 2 stop light loss as normal. but my images are sharp i take it your not actually going to use a 70-200 underwater ? here's an image shot with a sigma 70-210 F2.8 with the kenko attached. this was shot using a monopod from approx 6m regards craig
  18. TED you have a complete cover story... from your posting date 25/12/05 Just tell her SANTA must have left it for you Simple she'll never twigg it Honest merry christmas and all the best for the new year folks craig
  19. Hey John merry christmas m8 to you & your family, all the best for 2006. regards craig
  20. HI I second Arnon with the NOT MUCH BIG STUFF. I've dived TABA lots & Lots of times, Mostly small life stuff really but there are a few wide shots to be had. I'd go with a Macro 100mm and a wide zoomer , that would cover everthing really i think a 15FE would be too wide, Except for Dolphin excounter's. Regards craig
  21. Hi All My Favorite shot of this years was captured during a recent trip to the Maldives. Taken with the Nikkor 18-70mm. I just love the colours. regards and all the best for 2006 craig
  22. HI James thanks for the info, If only we had underwater local clubs here in the UK. shops suck as well, as they dont carry any stock. and they cant/wont order from Sea & Sea Uk as they will not allow Sale or return items... regards craig
  23. Hi Folks, sorry to ask the question again, but i'm now looking at getting 10-20mm Sigma or 12-24mm Tokina If anyone is using either in a Sea & Sea housing or can pass gear fitting information i'd be much obliged. Sea & Sea dont seem to be too bothered to produce gears for these excellent lenses, but i'm sure they must have one that i can doctor to make it work with either of these lenses. regards craig
  24. Hi Lambis thanks for your comments. I found it really hard work to use the 15mm out in the Maldives, I just couldn't get close enough to big pleagics and CFWA on the reef was near impossible. i hope to have a better session with it in Sipadan/Mabul regards craig
  25. Hi All. Just returned back from a trip to the Maldives and had a chance to test out my 15mm FE with a Magic filter only on one occasion Although the Reef Forna was lacking, I was still impressed with the colours that came out in the pictures. take a look at some of these shots, Not the best images I agree, but the colours shine through. I'll certainly be using it again that's for sure.. Thanks to Alex & Peter regards craig
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