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craig nelson

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Everything posted by craig nelson

  1. HI Just another note, This problem could well be an issue with a camera control rod. whilst underwater pressure it could just be pushing onto a button just enough to lock out your camera. You needed to put the camera into manual focus and repeat the test see if you can trigger the shutter. if you can, then it could well be a dome refraction issue. if you can't then i can only suspect a function button issue. regards craig
  2. Hi I Use it !! compact dome port with 40 extension ring & +4 samples regards craig
  3. HI I quite agree with Chris on the Size weight ports issue. I used to be an ikelte user, But exactly the above stopped me due to Airline luggage restrictions. Now i just have 1x Dome port 1x Macro port 1x extension ring this covers 18-70mm 15mm FE 60mm 60 & 2x TC 10-20mm Sigma 12-24mm Nikkor basically whatever i wish in 2 ports. if your going to restrict yourself to a couple of lenses or don't plan on travelling then you have no worries. As for the First time lens I've used the KIT 18-70MM AF-S and got some excellent results. so below, I can well recommend using that lens as a general purpose tool. All shot with 18-70mm & +4 Dio. Regards Craig
  4. HI Mark / Tim I use the following combo 60mm, Kenko Pro 300 2x TC. Port combo is Compact macro port base. 40 Extension ring Compact macro port (s)35 sea & Sea code 56211 I guess that if your having issues mark, if your using a different port rig than me or your 2x TC is larger. I use this setup as it allows me to carry only 2 ports around with me to cover all the lenses. That Being. Compact dome port (WA) Compact Macro port Base and the 35 (S) port the above combo will accept the following All my wide angle stuff including the 18-70 AF-S and Wide zoomers if i ever get one, as i just mount the dome onto the extension ring. Folk may laugh at the 18-70 AF-S, But i actually find it a really nice lens to use , it produces excellent images. I tend to use this when i dont know what to expect underwater. see the attached all shot with the 18-70mm & +4 using a combo of the (s) port and base with or without the extension ring i can use 60mm Micro 105mm Micro 60mm with 2x TC 105mm with 1.4x TC they all fit into this simple to carry setup. regards craig
  5. Hello All , My comments mirror Tims & Mike's I personally use a Mini Q40 as my focus light which is mounted to my housing. But have used SL4's in the past, but i found those to be a little too strong at times with 60mm as you need to be quite close as Mike says to fill the frame. As you know Tim I tend to use my 60mm alongside my 2X TC as well, a couple of stops of light loss but nothing to worry about. All that is required is a 40mm extension ring to soak up the 2x TC This lens is nice a sharp, not the fastest kid on the block , but a real gem. I tend to use settings of 125/ F16 180/F13 whilst shooting macro in Manual Mode. Just a few images shot with my 60mm & 2X TC remember that your DOF whilst shooting Macro will be quite shallow at times, so make sure that you are critical with your focus. I've used AF-S and AF-C, you'll find the one that suits you as start to play around with the lens and subject matter I'm sure your going to run into our usual little fellow the anemone fish, among many other critters. I tend to look around for textures and shapes also, as the middle picture of these three, just reminded me of an ALIEN FACE... Have a great time , i'm off to the Maldives myself next week... going to give one of Alex's Magic filters a Hard testing. regards craig
  6. Yeh while i'm at it can someone tell me how i get my images to just appear full size in the post instead of thumb nails thanks craig
  7. Hello Alcina Although not a canon user, but newish to digital, I've used my Nikon 60mm with 2x TC which brings me near enough to your canon 100mm as your playing with bigger crop factor. I agree along with mike, I only tend to use my setup with around F16 F22, to try and gain the best DOF i can using FLASH to expose the entire image. When i'm shooting fish i try and fill the frame and focus on the critical area of the EYES. Example. shot using the above combo , you will see that even though this is smaller reef fish that his pec fins are way out of the DOF, focus is on the eyes. I try also to not shoot too many fish using this combo, and go for shapes a flat textures where i know i'll get max focus from front to back see example, I like the sponge image in these shots as it looks like some kinda ALIEN FACE, the whip coral reminded me of a SeaHorse And the clam shot was just a perfect bathroom wall shot. Sorry reached limit see under for clam shot best of luck craig
  8. HI Tunc looking at your picture of the diver next too the reef. I'd have thought that all your dealing with is a DOF issue. If your working at wide apertures even with your 12-24 you cant expect total front to back focus. your diver seems to be a considerable way back from the reef scene. Depending on your focusing point within this picture you would end up with different results. your divers face actually looks quite focused. If you focused on your Diver, then i would anticipate that your foreground would be soft. Depth of Field is always Less infront of your subject then behind it, Couple this with say F5.6 and even though its a 12-24 your going to get less than pin sharp results front to back A good tip is try and get your diver in the same immediate area as your section of reef as near as you can get to your key focus area if you wish them to appear as sharp as your subject. and away from the edges as possible to avoid and distortion of their features. Otherwise just use them in the backgound as a scene enhancer as Paul's cools example above Take a look at the following image. Not a wonderful picture but you will see that the diver is very close to the my reef scene and will appear as in focus as the rest of the reef. This was shot with a Nikkor 18-70 AF-S & +4 Dio i expect around F5.6 to F8. Lighting from 2x sb_105s Manual using Sea & Sea compact dome port. Again the next image shot with the same combo. but the divers just set in the background. Try and get some hard testing of your combo done using different aperture settings see how things come out. regards craig
  9. Hello All just thought i'd pass my comments on regarding ITTL. I remember when i made the switch into DSLR with my D70, I was looking at all ways to get my Sb800's into the water because i too was a TTL Junky. But I'm now pleased to say that i love using manual flash and dont find it at all an hinderance whilst shooting. The bouns is you instantly see your results, so you become much more confident to use Manual flash than we used to when using film. I did however change my flash guns from YS series to SB-105's just for the simple reason that they were extremely cheap and they had 3 power settings. Couple this with aperture changes you can control the light until its just SPOT ON. I sometimes do wish that i had ITTL when shooting macro, but too be honest i like the complete control that comes with manual, its just a learning process like most things. I had contacted Sea & Sea quite somtime ago regarding ITTL, and they informed me that they were working on some new ITTL flash guns... when these arrive or even if they are still on the board i dont know. regards craig
  10. Hi All, This does appear to be a strange one indeed, If the system appears to work fine on land even in the housing then it can only be one of 2 things 1. when the housing is under water pressure something is jigging with the focus system on you D70. PLEASE PLEASE make sure that you dont have CLOSE FOCUS SUBJECT PRIORTY engaged in the menu,,,, this will be the culprit of most problems. and that you have Dynamic Area OFF. it will STILL be same even with AF-C on if CFSP is ON Just AF-S thats all thats needed for a good test. It will appear to work onland even through the dome if you have CFSP turned on your camera as it just wont see the dome and focus on the nearest object in the frame. 2. there is indeed a refraction issue. The 15mm FE will focus as close as you can almost get to anything, I've actually had mine with the dome touching the subject and it still focused in. I suppose there could be a possibilty that its actually focusing on the DOME itself infront of the lens. or if the water conditions are so turbid that its focusing on particle matter. however you do say that the results were the same even in Manual Focus, its sure steering towards a refraction issue i'd guess. I'm not an ikelite user, however i have been, And never really had an issue. just for a comparison here is a shot from my 15mm the dome was touching the Anemone... at times when the current took it. Sorry for that in advanced.
  11. Although I might ADD i'm not a canon user, BUT i think you need 6 pins on their hotshoes for ETTL ??? craig
  12. personally i cant see that working with the Sea & Sea range why well they only wire 2 pins on the camera hotshoe. Xcontact & ground the SP pinout is disconnected thus allowing us to fire our MANUAL guns.. for ITTL to function all 5 pins need to be connected as far as i know. and thats using a matthais ITTL conversion circuit. if they made a replacement hotshoe connection then sure, not a problem but it would involved some intervention buy the user to re-wire their housing. regards craig
  13. Well, thats it..... mass ass is grass She caught me looking at the dates to goto the NIKON Expo in london next week to see the D200 I musn't get any funny ideas about that now must I I used to manage a scuba outlet a few years ago, Always made me laugh that the amount of Male customers who came into the shop and upon leaving said DONT SAY ANYTHING TO HER IF SHE COMES IN... FOR GOD SAKE , SHE KILL ME. Well wouldn't she notice that you have taken the money for that item from your bank account ? NA.... ITS MY SECRET STASH.... , I'LL JUST HIDE IT FOR A FEW WEEKS , THEN TELL HER I'VE HAD IT FOR AGE'S... Guys this only works if your loved one is a NONE DIVER !!!. PLEASE PLEASE, dont try this on a DIVING LOVER... she'll Twigg it straight away honestly... If there are any youngsters reading this posting, go ask you dad where he keeps his secret WAD... and watch his face... .. More better, say it front of your MUM, and watch her say HAVE YOU !!! Then say... YEH DAD.. I SAW YOUR PAYPAL ACCOUNT THE OTHER DAY... YOUR LOADED... LET THE GAMES COMMENCE craig
  14. Alex, your better off with only one love in your life, why well YOU get to spend your hard earned without complaint on the things you love to spend your cash on. You'll never have to make excusses as to WHY you need to buy yet another item of equipment costing the price of the family car. It will all end when the nippers come along , as they are more important than your loved hobby,. you will resort to stashing away the little we earn as UWP's in secret places away from the joint bank account "not me dear honest" a great way to build a relationship, but you'll do anything for a quite life Then there will be the complete breakdown of communications between you both as she can no longer understand what the hell your talking about and cant understand at all why you need that new flash gun or housing because the one you have works. she'll complain at you for always being glued to the internet on that bloody underwater photography sado's group thingy... and not paying a blind bit of attention to what she's saying "yeh ...mmm .. really.....what love ?" BUT LOVE IS A FINE THING, I WOULD BE .... er WOULD'NT !!! BE WITHOUT THE BEST UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY MODEL,"complete mind reader" SPOTTER & COMPANION IN MY LIFE. "she was watching when i wrote the last bit" BEST WISHES craig
  15. Hi Lambis no worries I'm off to the Maldives next weekend, and have a magic fliter myself, intend to do lots of snork'in with my D70 and Magic, so hopefully i will have somthing to post when i get back regards craig I use capture 4.3 as well as PS, it is atually quite good, also try looking at www.fredmiranda.com fred does a lot of plug'ins for PS that actually work quite well, i use his DRI pro ISO NX reducer with great success Also, check out your inc camera sharpening whilst using iso 400, have it set to normal and work on it later
  16. Hi Lambis Yeh that would be correct in the field of wildlife photography is i were shooting a 400mm tele lens i'd need a 1/400 at least to be sure of a sharp image free of camera shake hand held.. depends on how good you are hand holding though as well. Not sure if you can apply this to WA shooting 1/10 seems very slow to me for moving subjects... i should think 1/30 is possible with practise your only other option is to open the aperture up if your using ISO 200 regards craig
  17. Hi Lambis Just to pass on my knowledge on this subject. firstly WB, You need not worry really if your Shooting RAW, you can sort it later in PS but your assumption is more than likely correct, however, as long as the lighting conditions stay the same. as for you information on ISO I've done a lot of shooting for various magazine articles. all shots are normally done ON THE FLY.. shots of divers training etc etc.. A simple rule that shutter speed should be equal to Focal length or greater to capture a sharp image. WITHOUT FLASH. whilst hand holding I suppose it depends on if your using flash or not in your case I have on many many occasions shot 24mm with F5.6 100ISO 1/30 1/15 and still ended up with crisp good images. good bouyancy control is also a strong player. if your base is 1/100 then i guess your shooting without flash your subjects are moving quite fast and your trying to freeze them ? flash should freeze your frame at 1/30 1/60 no worries another thing to think about whilst snapping this type of subject is flash sync and TTL or not to TTL. First curtain flash with a slow shutter speed and faster moving subject would not give the correct effect, i'd choose rear curtain and have any motion blur behind my subject. I'd guess for instance.... your free diver returning to the surface "quite fast i'd guess if he's high on CO2" not wanting to wait around for a pose !! ITTL would also be an issue here as well, the small pre-flashes that ITTL fires would not produce the best image during rear curtain usage. I've found that ITTL gives a very slight multiple ghosting effect as the preflashes are fired at the start of the shutter opening for ITTL metering then the final flash prior to the shutter closing all this is being recorded during rear curtain sync. GOOD OLD manual flash works best here as there is 1 flash of light and thats the light that freezes your subject and nothing more just prior to the shutter closing. I remember reading somthing from Alex M regarding this when he tested a rig of SB80's .... and D-TTL "i think" go try it with a sb800 and a moving car at night time you see what i mean well thats just my input on the subject, not of any use i suppose. but it might have touched something regards craig
  18. well mike you certainly made me laugh, i didn't think it was April yet !! better scub this posting quickly as Alex suggest's reading the manual always works wonders..... sorry mike.... regards craig sorry again
  19. Hi NWDIVER I posted a question regarding the 80-400VR a few weeks ago, as many reviews of this lens all complain about slow focusing... So i popped the question on the list, and made a comparison to the 60mm Micro's focusing as its the same system ( driven by the motor in camera and not lens) the response was indeed positive, with my likeness being confirmed. I still have to make my choice of what to buy as i'm going to borneo next year and wanted a lens to deal with the Orangutans. My Short list was Nik 80-400VR Sig 80-400 OS Sig 100-300 F4 with 1.4x TC I recently purchased a 80-400 OS Sigma. Very nice well built extremely rugged and exceptional tripod mount should you require it. HOWEVER its heavy.. but it is 80-400 Glass. Now I had an issue with the lens on my D70 It was Locking out whilst focusing , i had to resort to turning my camera off to regain control. It was also making some real strange grinding noise when the OS was suppose to work.. I ended up taking the lens back and getting a refund, ... Although images that came from it were excellent and sharp I'm now going to try another 80-400 os as i think i maybe had a bad lens. If its the same, then its the 80-400VR for me i think. regards craig take a look at www.fredmiranda.com for reviews
  20. Nikon launches the D200 Tuesday November 1, 2005 http://www.nikon.co.uk/press_room/releases/show.aspx?rid=190 Hi all this in on NIKON UK website regards craig
  21. Thanks for the shots I was kinda expecting a FUJI S3 Body with a intergrated vertical grip.... mmmm. i do hope they have added some connectors this time to attach a vertical grip electronically, the only BONE i have with my D70. I'm considering purchasing a D100 so i can get a dam vertical grip for when i'm land shooting as they have been reduced to £699 new here in the UK i really dont need a D2X.. "thats my wife talking" Are there any D100 users out there that could comment on your camera, Do you love it or hate it ? craig
  22. Just tryed to follow your links Alex, seems nikon have removed all trace on their site.. unless its my computer. craig
  23. Hi Sean You will like the Sea & Sea Housing,I spoke to them yesterday and it very very similar to my NX-80 which is a complete dream to use and carry about, very very light weight and compact. Enjoy whatever you get, My comments were born out of seeing Sea & Sea make a complete fudge when they produced a housing for the F50... a lot of R&D for so little return. Dont think this will happen though with digital. i just never expected a D50 housing , 350D yes... craig
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