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About jknights

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle
  • Birthday 12/03/1954

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Valencia, Spain
  • Interests
    Photography, Scuba Diving, computing,

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D300
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125
  1. I have completely retested and found it is the Nikonos plug that is the problem. I have got another cable and this works. That said I would like to replace one of the two bulkhead Nikonos sockets with an Ikelite socket. Has anyone tried this? Is it possible?
  2. I have a Sea&Sea housing for my Nikon D300 with twin sockets (Nikonos style) but they seem to be problematic with my Ikelite to Nikonos cables when connecting my DS125 to the housing. It is not a cable fault, nor is it a bulkhead fault as there are no short circuits. When I first switch on the flash it sometimes behaves correctly but other times it just flashes repeatedly as though there is a short circuit. If I unscrew the Nikonos plug 1/16 of a turn then it stops, likewise if I change power or switch to Has anyone experienced this? What could be the problem? I do NOT want to buy another cable as I know the cable is OK as I have tested it on another housing. I would be prepared to buy a Nikonos plug and replace the current one as the connections are held in a rubbery compound which doesnt look like a good design to me. I cant find a source for new Nikonos plugs. Any EU sources or elsewhere? Url would be good. This indicates there may be some fault or poor connection in the Nikonos bulkhead socket. However there are no short circuits when I test it with a multimeter. The easiest solution I can think is to replace one of the Nikonos bulkhead sockets with an Ikelite bulkhead socket but I am not sure if this is possible. Has anyone done this? How easy is it?
  3. Probably more HSE bullsh1t. Many photographers and rebreather divers are solo divers for all intents and purposes. It is about the state of mind of the diver and their capability to react to preserve their life rather than panic that dictates the safeness of the situation. If you want to solo dive at 50m then I would say that you were taking a risk but at 10-20 metres then I only ask that you plan for an equipment failure and be aware.
  4. Hello, I am based in Spain and UK. I want to buy a Sea&Sea VF180 or VF45 viewfinder for my MDX300. Please contact me via PM or email
  5. Please could you post a picture of your filling plate. Thanks. BTW CameraUnderwater in UK will be able to get you Ike push control parts for the housing.
  6. Yes the D90 and the D80 are the same camera bodies. Most controls are in the same place. I'm looking into fitting a D80/90 into my Sea&Sea housing for my D70. There may be a loss of some of the back plane controls but I only use them occasionally. D70 - 140 x 111 x 78 mm (5.5 x 4.4 x 3.1 in) D80 - 132 x 103 x 77 mm (5.2 x 4.1 x 3 in) D90 - 132 x 103 x 77 mm (5.2 x 4.1 x 3 in) These are extreme measurements eg the width includes the strap lugs!
  7. I have a Nikkor 60mm and it is brilliant. I used to have it on a Nikon F801 in a Subal housing with two strobes in manual (1/125, f8 -ASA200), camera TTL mode. I cant wait to get my hands on a housed S2. I am dumping my Olympus 4040 and going for the S2. Too much shutter lag on 4040 and I cant see the LCD properly underwater. when it is close enough to see LCD screen I cant focus on it ( old eyes) and when it is too far away it is too difficult to see what is ion the LCD. !!! Expensive mistake. Life's a learning !!
  8. James, The pictures that you took under the oil rig platform (barracuda and sharks). Were these taken with your S2 or something else.
  9. Why not purchase one in US and import. All you would have to pay is the VAT difference on the $1300. This is what I will probably do. I am dumping my Olympus 4040 and going for a Fuji S2 housed (Ikelite looks like a winner it is the only one with a S2 housing. I have contacted Subal, UK Germany and SeaCam. All were uncommitted to S2. Such a shame about D-TTL as I would have preferred to use my D1. MrFish where are you located in UK. I would be interested to talk to you. My email in my profile.
  10. James, I would definitely agree with you on the TTL/D-TTL . I think D-TTL is one of those things that seemed like a really good idea and works most of the time on land, u/w it really sucks. Also I think that it is another ploy to sell new digital compatible strobes.
  11. Hi - I started this thread as jk but have reregisterd as jknights. I have not had any success with getting a housing for my 6900.
  12. FYI to all: The TTL in the Fuji S2 Pro works differently to the Nikon D1 series and D100. I'm not sure about Canon D30/60 and 1D. The Fuji uses TTL flash and works in the same way as the old film TTL flashes. It takes it TTL measurement from (I think ) the black rebate around the CCD. Hence James' glorious results. The Nikon uses D-TTL which relies on a preflash. Also when it is measuring the light prior to quenching it does not use the old TTL system that measured reflected light from film plane but calculates from the pre-flash. Who thought of this. It really sucks and kill us U/W photogs.These are without doubt certainly the best results that I have seen from a digital camera.
  13. James, Just to clarify. You are shooting with Fuji S2 Pro (set in Manual Mode presume 1/125th @ what ever fstop you decide), with two flashes (S&S90X and Nikon SB102) set in TTL mode and synching via Nikon fit connector link to camera hotshoe, 'protected' in an Ikelite housing. I used to have a Subal 801 with Nikon F801/N8008 with a pair of Ikelite MV50s synching via Nikon fit cord to hoteshoe and this worked fine for me. I have now moved digital and am still struggling with Olympus 4040 as it is no where as fast at focusing as my old Nikon.
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