Jump to content

Trevor Rees

Member
  • Content Count

    187
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Trevor Rees

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.trevorreesphotography.co.uk
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Worcester, England, UK
  • Interests
    UK underwater photography

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    --
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D90, D600
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea DX-D80, MDX-D600
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    YS110a's
  1. Apart from no pop up flash, the other thing that caught my eye is the ISO button having been moved to be near the shutter release (same as D5). I wonder if that makes a housing control for this button awkward to design for quick ISO adjustment? Perhaps some of the controls can be reassigned.
  2. Thanks for the reply, not sure how your experience relates to my housing problems though. I've been assembling it by the book! I was hoping to hear from a few more Sea & Sea users as to how well your housing controls work. Any D600, D800, D7100 users out there - does that rear command dial work perfectly on your housing?
  3. Has anyone had a problem with their Sea & Sea MDX-D600 housing - or a similar modern Sea & Sea housing? I've found that the rear housing main command dial fails to connect properly with the camera. In the design there is a rubber wheel that connects with the back of the camera and this is driven by a second rubber wheel controlled from the large knob on the back of the housing. There are two problems: Firstly, the camera is a little short of the rubber wheel. (it sometimes works better at depth). Secondly, if I try and put a shim or two in place to move the camera back on its tray a bit, the two rubber wheels just slip against each other. I'm fairly practical and am used to housing faults but finding a simple fix for this one has got me beat. It worked OK from new but after 6 months was a real pain and became unusable. I now conclude that this Sea & Sea design is pretty darned poor - a shame as I like the housing in most other respects! Any feedback welcome.
  4. It's just a big rubber bumper, held on with a bit of glue. Once you've peeled it off the first time it's easy to take on and off the next time. I find it handy to remove it occasionaly so I can clean the glass more easily and dry it all off.
  5. Can anyone tell me if there is any significant difference between these two viewfinders. I currently use the Inon but have never seen the Sea & Sea version. At first glance they look the same unit, but from product photos they are clearly made differently. Importantly, does one have a bigger and better view than the other?
  6. Zener diodes, that's useful to know. I've since been told they might be there to protect against voltage spikes. My interest in this is just to know how to wire up dual electrical bulkheads on any future housing when many manufactures are moving away from this in favour of fibre optic cables.
  7. Here we have the inside of a Sea & Sea DX-D80 housing showing the wiring from the 2 Nikonos bulkheads. The wires join at a small board before going to the camera hot shoe connector. There are 5 wires from the TTL converter bulkhead and 2 from the other one. Any idea how the wiring works and what the components are and why they are there. Would I be right in thinking that they might be diodes. Is this a standard configuration when two strobes are wired together electrically? Any insight would be helpful.
  8. Reassuring indeed Alex, that your thoughts are with me at this difficult time.
  9. Amazing! - Two quality replies from people in my own Bristol photo group. Mark, I'll PM you about Tues night.
  10. I've been using the Inon 45 for a few years now and can't imagine using a housing without such a device. I'm trying to decide if changing to the Nauticam to get the dioptre adjustment would help me. Depressingly, I can see increasing long sightedness in my future! Cuiously, I've not found the tiny adjustment knob on the back of my D90 viewfinder does much for me. Everything is best with the adjuster in the middle position.
  11. In my case my eyes have just started to loose the ability to close focus. It's an inevitable age related problem that must affect lots of us. I still have no need for glasses day to day and seeing wide angle scenes is not an issue. It's the close up macro stuff where things are not so sharp. Hence my question, would a viewfinder with a dioptre adjustment be my answer?
  12. This might be an odd question, but can anyone tell me what the dioptre adjustment knob actually does? Is there a particular eyesight problem that this can help with? Would it be an alternative to a presciption mask for example?
  13. I can't offer any assistance Michael but I'm sure that Simon B will be able to offer some useful comments. I was also a contributer that never got paid. For for me it was only a couple of pictures, and they were not worth a lot. I had conversations with Grahame Gourlay at the magazine but apart from a few limp promises of possible payment nothing came of it. I decided not to pursue anything, but in principle it should be chased.
  14. The big question for me is which is the most reliable strobe. I've now had a total of six YS110's of which four have died on me and been beyond economic repair. This can't just be bad luck! I'm left with two working ones but feel I really need to carry a spare. It's nice to see that they have been discontinued in favour of a new model, the YSD1. I prefer the look of these compared to the Inons and the tighter beam angle would suit me better - but are they more reliable? Are there any Inon users prepared to own up to strobe failure?
×
×
  • Create New...