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Everything posted by JMartel

  1. If there's interest in splitting any of it up here's some prices which do not include shipping: Nauticam Housing & Vacuum valve $600 6" Dome Port $300 E-M5mkII with extra batteries, charger, grip $400 Panasonic 7-14mm with zoom gear $400
  2. Upgraded to a new system so my old one is up for sale. It's an Olympus E-M5mkII micro 4/3 camera, Nauticam housing with vacuum valve, dome port, and Panasonic 7-14mm wide angle lens with 3D printed zoom gear. This was my wide angle setup for a while until I got a new camera and a WWL port. Camera and housing have been used on approximately 100-150 dives by me, and was purchased used from Wetpixel in 2018. Everything is in working order, but definitely shows signs of use. Dome port has some very light marks that don't show up in photos. Dome port also has weights added to offset the positive buoyancy that tries to flip the dome up towards the surface when diving. Camera comes with 4x batteries plus charger as well as an aftermarket grip that works in a tripod. Wide lens shows no scratches or imperfections. Electrical tape is covering the lens labels on the front so it doesn't reflect onto dome during use. Ready to go as a package, will only need an Olympus flash or nauticam flash trigger if you want to use external flashes when diving. I can break up if desired, but preferred to sell all together. Price is $1500 for everything plus shipping.
  3. Personally, Sea & sea lost me as a customer with the poor quality of the YS-D2. I won't buy another strobe from them. I had 3 of them fail on me. The D2J was supposed to be better, but I didn't want to keep it long enough to find out. Just because of that I'd be looking between Inon z300 and the new Retras.
  4. I have an opened up S&S YS-D2 strobe if you want photos of that as well. The non-J model.
  5. Bump this up, now asking $450 plus shipping.
  6. Up for sale is my YS-D2J (updated japanese made version, not original D2). It's had maybe 50-60 dives on it, still in great condition, never flooded. Selling because I switched to a pair of Inon z240's. Looking for $500 plus shipping. Would prefer US buyers.
  7. Right, most of the time it's not an issue. I found that 24x36 it starts to have issues though. All my prints below that have been fine. Really only an issue if you are trying to be printing huge regularly. For one off stuff you can do some tricks to make the big prints look better.
  8. Minor correction here, but that wouldn't be anywhere near 300DPI. It would be around half that. The 16MP sensor will do prints that size, but it will start to break down on the quality a bit. I've got the same sized sensor in my E-M5mkII and have printed large, but it definitely doesn't have the same detail as an 11x14 would. Honestly, at this point I would just bite the bullet and get something full frame instead of M4/3. I would like to switch at this point, but definitely can't spend that kind of money.
  9. Looking to buy 1 Inon Z240 strobe since my YS-D2 failed on me yet again. Not looking for any Sea & Sea strobes at this point. Would prefer a US Shipper.
  10. Nice results. Can you share how you did the calculations? I'm assuming the goal is to correct both to roughly half way between the strobe color temp and water color temp and set the camera to that?
  11. Sea & Sea also has no customer service to speak of as well. I contacted them several times about my recent strobe failure and haven't heard anything back. Not happy with them at all. Save your money and buy different ones. Maybe they will learn when people stop buying their crappy products.
  12. I regret buying my YS-D2 strobes. Bought one very slightly used (i.e. no warranty), and one new. The new one was messed up upon arrival. It would flash itself every few seconds while underwater with no provoking. Bluewater replaced that one for me. The replacement for that ended up with the burnt flash tube like in this thread like 6 months later. That one was replaced with the D2J yellow version. Now the first D2 that I bought (the not truly new one) no longer changes output strength when I turn the dial. Stuck in one setting only. Was fine for 2 years and now this. My dive buddy had a YS-01 fail on her as well. Wouldn't fire and perpetually charging the capacitor while getting hot. Don't buy from Sea & Sea. Retra or Inon only at this point.
  13. Got it. Thanks for the photos. Certainly a cool effect. I wonder if you would be able to find some of the stainless tube used for handrails on boats. Not sure how polished it is inside. The other option is to maybe find some circular sanding balls that fit inside of different grits to polish it up a bit. EDIT: Here's a link to a pipe on McMaster that looks like it would do the trick. Polished inside, 1" diameter 1ft long is about $16 USD in 316L. Not sure how much it would be to ship to Canada. https://www.mcmaster.com/4466k58 I would think you would want the diameter of the pipe to match up to the diameter of your lens, correct?
  14. Does anyone have an example of how this looks when done? I'm not sure if I understand what's being accomplished with this.
  15. Why not. I'll put mine up here. https://www.instagram.com/martelunderwater/
  16. You could use an insulated cooler bag. Also doubles as a personal rinse tank while you are diving. I just did that for my trip to Mexico this summer. Waterproof, padded, but it's only one large compartment, so you might want to wrap individual ports and stuff with clothes to protect them in the bag.
  17. If you are buying new, the YS-D1's aren't available anymore. You have to go to the YS-D2J. I would advise against buying a used YS-D2 (the non-yellow ones) as there were a lot of quality control issues on those strobes. I had replaced one of mine 3 times before they gave me the upgraded one. I'm still leery of the new ones.
  18. Skip the 9-18mm. Not a good lens at all. Sold mine pretty quickly after getting it. I shoot with the Panasonic 7-14mm and the Olympus 8mm fisheye. I'd do one of the following: WWL for your 14-42mm (Friend that works at Bluewater likes this combo) Olympus or Panasonic 8mm fisheye Olympus or Panasonic 7-14mm Panasonic 8-18mm. If you are doing wide angle reef scenes and close focus wide angle shots, get one of the 8mm fisheye lenses or the WWL-1. If you are doing big animal stuff, go with one of the 7-14mm or the 8-18mm.
  19. Late to the topic, but here's my rundown: 12-50mm: Don't care for it. Not wide enough for wide work, not close enough for macro work. If you want to be able to access macro on the go, you have an absurdly expensive zoom gear & port to buy. Image quality isn't that great. Will fit into the 60mm macro port with a basic zoom gear or using the electronic zoom (i.e. no macro function). Didn't spend much on the lens and nothing on an additional port or zoom gear, so I'll keep it around as backup or as a loaner. 9-18mm: Not wide enough for most WA photos, smeared corners for days. Better for medium sized animal photos than anything else it does. Uses the same gear and ports as the 14-42mm. Sold it off as quick as I could. Panasonic 7-14mm: Almost wide enough for CFWA. Nice and sharp, not crazy expensive. Long end isn't great for medium animals such as sharks that like to keep their distance. Issues topside with purple flares when shooting towards the sun. Stays in the bag. 60mm Macro: Amazing lens. Easily my favorite. Definite buy, especially since it goes on sale for $300 occasionally. Stays on the camera 90% of the time. Olympus 8mm Fisheye: Really wide. Great for CFWA. Nice and sharp. Pricey, but I got my copy for about the same price as a used Panasonic 8mm, so a great deal. Haven't gotten to use it much yet though. If you have to pick 1 lens, then get a 12-40mm and a wet macro and wet wide lens. Pick 2, then get the 60mm macro and one of the 8mm fisheyes. 3, then add a rectlinear zoom (but not the 9-18mm).
  20. The E-M5mkII has the same sensor as your E-M5. Definitely not worth it to upgrade. If you are going to upgrade, get the E-M1mkII. Or you can wait until fall timeframe and see what Olympus does with the E-M5mkIII which should be coming out soon. Alternatively, you could upgrade to the Panasonic GH5.
  21. I'll give you a different option. Olympus 60mm Macro & Nauticam port Olympus 12-50 - Uses the same port as macro, just lose the ability to use macro button during dive (but you have the 60mm anyway). You can 3D print a much less complicated gear for really cheap. Panasonic 8mm & 100mm dome. Then you only have 2 ports to worry about, covers the range, and the 12-50mm is only about $150 used I wouldn't do the 9-18mm. I used that combo and didn't like it. I now use a Panasonic 7-14mm instead.
  22. Or, even cheaper, 3D print your own. Find someone that has a printer, or use a printing service. Works great. I gave a friend $10 US to make it for me. I've also used him for a few other gears as well. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60536
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