Guillaume L

Thank you, that's a very telling case study.

An update would be great, thanks

Thanks for your replies, Did you think the service was necessary to do? I.e. Did you pick up (and fix) any problems that would have potentially caused a leak if the service had not been done? Or did you find those internal O'rings (etc...) to be in great shape without needing replacement? I'm currently servicing mine (Sea&Sea DX200) for the first time. I'm wondering whether I'm doing more harm than good.

Thank you And have you done a FULL service on your housing? Cheers

Hello all, I would like to know how many photographers out there (especially any pro shooters) do a FULL service on their housing? And do you did yourself or send it back to the manufacturer? I'm talking about an inspection and replacement (if necessary) of every single O'ring on their housing +/- a pressure test. Does anyone think whether this activity extends the life of the housing or reduce the incidence of flooding? Cheers

Hello all, I would like to know how many photographers out there (especially any pro shooters) do a FULL service on their housing? And do you did yourself or send it back to the manufacturer? I'm talking about an inspection and replacement (if necessary) of every single O'ring on their housing +/- a pressure test. Does anyone think whether this activity extends the life of the housing or reduce the incidence of flooding? Cheers

Yes I've tried that. It doesn't work My two sync cords still work, but I have no means of connecting them in a way that makes me happy. I found the 'best' solution for me at the moment - buy a twin sync cord. It meant spending more money but hey that's underwater photography.

Has anyone ever rewired the TTL converter connection port to allow another strobe to be connected directly? I use a Sea&Sea DX200 which (annoyingly) has only one connection for a strobe and one for the TTL converter which I loathe. The end story is that I need a secondary double adapter to plug in both strobes. It's an annoying device which is cable tied to one of my strobe arms. Not only does it encourage entanglements but I think it broke during my last dive. This leaving me with two functioning strobes but only one that is directly connectable. FYI I shoot fisheye, so a slave strobe doesn't work for me. If anyone has any budget conscious suggestions, that would be most appreciated.

Great! Thanks for the info, I will start using NiMh for my next dive.

No explosions? I was concerned because the label on the strobes recommends only Manganese, NiCd or Alkaline. Thanks

Can anyone recommend a brand (and type) of rechargeable battery that works well with Sea&Sea YS120? After reading previous posts I have not found the information I was after. Thanks

Hello, Is anyone currently using rechargeable batteries with YS120 strobes? If so would you please tell me what kind of batteries work well. I have read the previous (older) posts, but have not quite found the info I'm looking for. Thank you

G'day My quest for the perfect photo BCD has led me from using traditional BCDs, a Zeagle ranger and finally backplate and wing (which I love). The beauty of this system is multifaceted. Firstly it is modular. I started with a stainless steel backplate (zeagle) and used my old ranger wings. I then switched to Hollis wing (for single tank) and Halycon wing (for twin tanks). I bought my harness at a hardware store. The 'D' rings are strong enough to hold a housed SLR on land. It frees your chest from paraphernalia. There are no cummerbunds, tightening straps, quick-release clips etc... to get tangled in your strobe arms. It improves you trim (not your buoyancy) It is comfortable in the water (but not out of it). Cheers