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Everything posted by Sinistar

  1. I am using Magic Lantern all the time now on the 5D2 - it would be hard to go without it! For underwater, the two features I use most are the crop marks (I just used the Cinemascope crops marks for a recent dive trip). And the other useful feature is for MWB underwater. With the 5D2 you can get MWB down to just two button presses and no need to turn any knobs or take any photos (major PITA). I should note though that with my limited dives, I'm not sure how well their MWB performed so I thought that should be mentioned as it may not be aggressive enough for a typical 50' deep ocean water shot. I have noticed that the camera is slow to "wake up" but at least all the settings are retained. Oh yeah, I also really like their on screen focus aid. Quite handy. And I do like the summary data overlaid on the bottom (shutter speed, 35mm equivalent focal length, etc). I just use the other little software program that formats all the cards in support of Magic Lantern and install the software on all the cards so its ready to go. In a way Magic Lantern would be even better for a rebel series. The rebel series don't have the control wheel on the back. On this models Magic Lantern then can be set to us the up / down arrows for white balance and the left right buttons for ISO which saves more multi-button presses while under water. The 5D2 Magic Lantern can do this as well but needs access to the joystick which my Ikelite housing doesn't have but really doesn't matter.
  2. I'm another Pelican 1510 user: Pelican 1510 Carry-On: - Remove all the foam and dividers!!!! - 3/2 Wetsuit on the bottom - Ikelite enclosure for Canon 5D towards the handle end, enclosure filled will gears, orings, etc - Regulator coiled up on other end (hog-style long hose, short hose) - Wrist dive computer and compass wrapped in cloth and stuffed inside the 8" dome - 8" dome with longest port extension tube placed on top of reg (port tube fits inside coiled up reg) - Strobe cable and arm - Batteries, chargers, small flash lights, etc stuff around edges - Dive boots above the dome port (boots are heavy!) - Small cable lock used to lock this same case to a pipe or bedframe in the room (if needed) - Swim trunks a very light tee-shirt on very top. - The case is quite heavy. - I always have a large padlock on it. Everytime it goes through security they have me unlock it (never cut) Think Tank (Medium Sized Forgot Name) as the camera / computer bag. - Camera Body - Canon 100macro, 17-40, 40 Pancake and the Rokinon 14mm. - Ike DS51 strobe - USB powered 500gb portable drive - Card reader and USB hub - Surface RT (web, movies, email, transfer files from cards to drive, preview 5d2 video) - Filters (polarizer, ND) - Camera strap - Ballhead (tripod goes in checked baggage - only for land shots and video) Large Roller Suitcase (checked) - Large Dive Bag (w/tags) And everything else inside (in case suitcase breaks) - BCD, - Fins, - Housing handle - Floats - Dive - Clothes - etc. This has worked for all the common Caribbean destinations and rarely have I paid any luggage fees since I'm only checking one item. Since we usually fly Delta (Minneapolis) the first bag has no fee for all Caribbean and places like Bonaire and Belize are two checked bags without fees. For the small hops (Aruba to Bonaire, Belize City to Ambergris Caye) the Pelican goes underneath but the camera backpack is okay to carry on. I can't wait to go to the Pacific - yet I know this travel setup would easily exceed the carry on weight limits as the Pelican 1510 loaded probably weights over 45lbs with all the gear. I really appreciate this thread as it has a great deal of useful information for traveling lighter and awareness of the various carry-on weight limits which haven't been a problem - yet - for US based carriers.
  3. In case anyone who initially followed this thread is interested - I have tried it. I started another post on wetpixel with more details and a sample video clip: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49765
  4. The following clip isn't that long but should give you an idea of what the lens, camera and dome combination are capable of. I will definitely be trying this again! It was worth cutting off the hood:: Background: Last year I purchased a used Ikelite DSLR housing and 8" modular dome port to house a Canon 5D2. For my first dive trip I used the Canon 17-40L with the #5510.24 port extension and the 8" modular dome. In the end it worked out okay but I didn't care for the edge sharpness - especially for video at the wide (17mm) focal length. I did try a +2 diopter and I think it helped a bit but I had a lot of problems focusing at/around infinity so I took it off after a day of diving. What I did like about the 17-40 is that is has a relatively close focus distance and so stills shot at 40mm were very sharp and worked well with a single strobe. But wide angle just wasn't working all that well. Here is a link to a gallery of photos (all underwater all taken with the 17-40L). Note: many of these photos are cropped, some quite significantly: http://www.amazonbeach.com/PhotoVideo/Cozumel2012/ I had seen some very nice footage shot with the Canon 14mm L version II. But that lens is way over my budget! So I searched around and found a Rokinon 14mm f2.8 lens used on Craigslist for $220. It was in decent shape. By f4 it is very sharp and for my copy by f5.6 it is crazy sharp and has no noticeable vignette on the full frame 5d2. It is a very fun lens to use. You can shoot straight into the sun with little or no flaring! The moustache shaped distortion is immediately obvious if there are any horizontal straight lines. Easy to fix for stills but need to be aware of for video. Of course, I really wanted to take it underwater and thought it might fit in the Ikelite system - nope! It was so close, but the built in hood of the lens is too wide to fit through the ikelite port extension tube. So I tried taking the lens apart a few times (to cleanly remove the hood) but never did figure it out. Along the way I declicked the aperture ring - which I thought I would like - but it had no damping and the throw is so short I put that tiny bearing back in. From earlier measurements, I knew that the lens would fit through with the lens hood removed. So, given the lens was cheap, I cut the hood off with a dremmel tool. I first removed the font element (easy), stuffed the lens with lint free cloth to keep the particles from entering the rest of the lens and then simply cut off the lens hood. After this the lens fits quite easily through all the ikelite port extension tubes. And I am able to use the Ikelite focusing gears! FYI - This is a manual focus lens so the focus gears working has been very handy. The first port extension tube I tried was the 5510.24. There was a lot of vignette from the modular dome. I'm believe this port extension would have worked focus-wise though. However, when I purchased the used Ikelite kit, it also had the slightly shorter #5510.22 and the very short #5510.11. So next I tried the #5510.22 on a local lake dive. The conditions were crappy but it seemed to work okay. I really struggled with focusing though as it was so dark. Although I did capture this image when were were exiting (this is through the dome but above water!) http://www.amazonbeach.com/PhotoVideo/AmazonBeachGallery/slides/20120819144951_5D2_IMG_4396.html Then two weeks ago I was down in Ambergis Caye for a week. Unfortunately we were blown out for the majority of the trip so I only got in three dives. On the first dive I tried the #5510.11 (very short port extension). I think it was just too close to the lens to focus properly. Only the very center of the image was properly focused. On the only other two dives I switched to the #5510.22 extension tube. On the first dive I struggled with focus. I was confused and thought I needed to stick a land based hyperfocal focus point - but that really didn't work. On the second dive I had more time and refocused with live view. This time the results were a lot better! When I disassembled the rig at the end of the day I noted that the focus was very close to the minimum focus distance. Perhaps with a dome port and in water, the focus is on the virtual image right behind the dome? For all the dives I used Magic Lantern. It has such an easy whitebalance menu system (just two button clicks). But in the end I wasn't overly pleased with the results. Because 14mm is so crazy wide on a full frame I had to hold the white card so close that often it had shadow on the card. But I'm also wondering if the Magic Lantern whitebalance doesn't use a very full range of tint? I should also note that this lens is manual aperture. So I just set the aperture at the click stop between f8 and f12 - I'll call it f10. The shutter was set at 1/47 and I ended up using iso 100, 160 and 320 for the dives. I probably should have set the aperture at f12. You will see that the water was pretty hazy and a bit dark but it worked. Also, I had the cinemascope crop marks turned on for all the dives as my goal was to create a 2.35:1 video when finished. So the sample clip is cropped this way. Observations: 1.) When shooting stills, there is a very noticeable vignette from the dome port. If you plan on shooting lots of stills you will need to crop to get rid of vignette. But I like wide angles with very landscape aspect ratios so no problem here. And at 20MP, you can crop forever on the 5D2. 2.) When shooting video, the full video frame (16:9) has small - but just noticeable - corner vignetting. The average viewer may not notice it but anyone critical will call it out. So, cropping to a more anamorphic aspect ratio is probably best. But once again, this lens is crazy wide which lends itself to that type of presentation. 3.) Corner sharpness. I think it is quite good! The 17-40 was much softer. And I think with more dive time to get focus better I think the Rokinon / Samyang 14mm f2.8 will rival or even best the Canon 14mm L version II. Perhaps if placed behind a glass dome (vs the Ikelite acrylic) it might be even sharper?
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