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About NikonKidF3

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Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D90
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica AD90
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    S&S YS-110
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms, Nocturnal Lights 800 Light
  1. Got one! Thanks fellow WetPixel member!
  2. Used, new, whatever! You can email to nikonkid90 AT Gmail DOT com Thanks!
  3. I was packing the dome and all the other things into my carry-on bag for the flight to Bonaire, and felt that the things that were going to be above the dome in the bag might bang into it and scratch it, even with the neoprene cover. What went on top of my dome in my travel case was the macro port, in bubble wrap, and one strobe on top of that, so it wasn't a huge load, just not one that I wanted putting any pressure on the port itself. Dust and sand could get on the cover and get ground into the port, and that would be in the center of the port, easily seen. The 10.5mm has such depth of field that dust inside the port and scratches either on the inside or outside of the port could show if if is stopped down enough and focused on a pretty close subject. You sure could use cardboard to cover the dome for the flight, but that might also get pushed in over time. I had read somewhere that another photographer had adapted a piece of tupperware to cover his dome, so I was searching around in the kitchen, holding my dome port when I came across this basket for the rice cooker. An additional bonus is that I can use this helmet in the field, going from hotel to dive site. It protected the dome when it was in the back seat of the pickup truck as we bounced around Bonaire. I would remove the helmet and put just the neoprene cover back on before I entered the water. After I exited the water, I would put the helmet on underneath the neoprene cover before driving off. I still got scratches on my dome that I have to polish out, but that was from swimming into some coral (DOH!). Scratches that happen underwater are much easier to forgive than scratches that happen on land. I just didn't want to arrive in Bonaire with a scratched up dome port to begin with! Willis\
  4. I am packing my Aquatica D90 rig into a rolling carry on bag, and I have a new (to me) 8 inch dome port. I wasn't happy just putting a piece of cardboard between the top of the dome port (in its neoprene cover) and everything else in the bag. I found the steamer basket from the Panasonic SR-DE103 fuzzy logic rice cooker fits perfectly, after trimming off some of the edge so that the basket fits inside the sunshade. The remaining edge rests on the lips of the sunshade and prevents the bottom of the basket from touching the dome. The neoprene cover fits over it all without a problem. I have made a gallery of the process: http://slickpic.us/407264UNTN The part number from the Panasonic website for the basket is: ARK53T975-W9 We own the rice cooker and never use the basket, so it didn't cost me anything. The rice cooker is really an excellent device, BTW. Willis
  5. Hello! If you still have the ULCS AC-TCS triple clamp, I will buy it! Just send me an invoice via paypal to: nikonkid90 AT gmail DOT com Thanks! Willis
  6. I'd like to purchase your YS-110a strobe. The price is fine, and I don't need the sync cable. Send me a receipt to my paypal account at nikonkid90@gmail.com We are going to Bonaire in March, so your strobe will feel at home! Willis
  7. Just returned from another successful week of diving in Key Largo, using the Leak Sentinel on my Aquatica AD90. It adds a tremendous level of confidence and eliminates much of my anxiety when the camera hits the salt water. I always assemble my rig in my hotel or condo before leaving for the boat, and don't have to open the enclosure to replace data cards or batteries between dives. I pump the enclosure down about 1/2 hour before leaving, and make sure the blinking green light is on before I leave for the boat. Diving the Spiegel Grove, I did find that the light went from blinking green to alternating blinking red-green, the caution condition. I noticed this at about 90 feet. I didn't see any water in the port or the back window, and thought it very likely that the enclosure was being squeezed to a slightly smaller volume at 90 feet than at the surface, thus raising the internal pressure very slightly. This turned out to be the case, and upon ascending the line at the end of the dive, the light went to straight blinking green at about 60 feet. There was not a hint of water in the enclosure when I opened it up at the condo that afternoon. I have taken to pumping the enclosure a bit further down than before: 8-10 strokes on the pump instead of 4-6, and that seems to have taken care of the false alarms. Ergonomically, the Leak Sentinel LED is positioned right at the top of the housing for me, in the second strobe bulkhead port, placing it at eye level every time I swing the enclosure up to shoot. I can't help but see the light and check that it is blinking green (it looks yellow underwater) throughout the dive. Battery life appears to be very long, certainly more than the 24 hours I spent underwater and leak checking my enclosure in the condo (I pump the enclosure down and leave it blinking overnight if I make any changes such as removing the port or replacing a bulkhead). I think any vacuum leak detection system makes a huge difference in reducing anxiety about your equipment. The Leak Sentinel does the job for me with no fuss, no muss, no sticky mess. I think the other systems would do a fine job as well. Willis
  8. Here is the link to the Leak Sentinel, which I used for week in Key Largo earlier this year and highly recommend to reduce your stress levels! http://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php I see you are using nearly the exact same setup I use: Aquatica housing, with D90, ULCS arms. I use S&S YS-110 strobes though! Willis
  9. I am just back from a week in Key Largo using the Leak Sentinel from vividhousings.com, and it definitely made me comfortable dunking my D90 and macro into my camera bucket on the boat each morning. Having the blinking green light going during that first kerplunk and during the dive is very reassuring and gives positive confirmation that the vacuum is holding. Miso, who runs Vivid Housings, was able to make an adapter for my Aquatica AD90 housing and have it shipped out to me from Europe in less than a week. It fit perfectly, once I figured out that the lockwasher goes on the _inside_ of the housing. Duh! I would assemble my equipment in the hotel the morning before the dives, and pump it down, going 3-4 extra pump strokes after the LED went from blinking red-green to blinking green. I would leave it pumped down the whole day until I was back at the hotel to remove the memory card and battery. I never got any water into the vent area: I used a towel to dry that area off thoroughly before removing the cap. If I was opening the enclosure on the boat, I would definitely want to have a towel or some compressed air to blow off the water around the cap. Now where would I get compressed air on a dive boat? For $260 all in, it's an amazingly good deal: provides the vacuum lock of the seals, provides continuous visual indication of vacuum, and the battery (single 1632 coin battery) seems to last forever. I agree with other commenters: there's just so much that you can get wrong putting a complex system together and that having some way to verify the integrity of the seal other than destructive testing only makes sense. Whatever system you get is infinitely better than not having a system. We are talking a fairly small fraction of the cost of your entire camera/housing system to keep it dry on the inside. Look at all those posts about folks getting their D7000 housings flooded because of the stupid microphone cable!
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