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echo2600

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Everything posted by echo2600

  1. I’d have to think that moving the screen from within the confines of the original camera body, as the Tilta kit does, would make it impossible to use any housing designed for the camera, as produced. I’d be awfully surprised if there we the extra ~5 mm that would seem to be needed for the modified camera to fit in the housing....
  2. Thank you, all, for the responses. I’ve a bit of experience with electronics, so the capacitors, whilst keeping me mindful of my actions, “shouldn’t” be a major concern. I was figuring that I’d have to extract the inner workings out through the front. It’s really, now, more a matter of finding the time to delve into it.
  3. As the title states, I’m in need of advice on how to disassemble a Sea & Sea YS-01 strobe. One of mine seems to have gone wonky... sometimes turning on, and other times not... Living in Honduras, sending it for repair isn’t a great option. Since it works less often than it functions, I figure that I’ve nothing to lose by delving into home repair. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, in advance! Elliot
  4. Comparing it to my 100mm acrylic, where one can easily see the locking o-ring, my guess is that the 140mm fisheye glass is glued in place. I don’t see where there’d be any room to work an o-ring down between the glass of the dome and the port shade petals. Assuming it’s glued, Nauticam has figured out a way to make it so there’s no adhesive squishing out, anywhere.... Impressive!
  5. I'm curious if the Nauticam glass domes are secured similarly? My 140mm fisheye dome has gotten scratched, but I believe that if I could rotate the glass by 90 degrees, it might be out of the field of view (M4/3 8mm lens)… I'm residing in Honduras, so a quick trip to a Nauticam dealer isn't really in the cards...
  6. This isn’t necessarily a bug, but is an annoyance... on Safari, on my iPhone, when I revisit a thread that shows as having new content, I get sent to the beginning of said thread, as opposed to the first unread post (which the old site used to do)... Perhaps, I’ve something amiss in my settings... Though, I’m skeptical of that...
  7. When mine came loose, I used a dab of Gorilla Glue... It seems to be a thick consistency, water proof contact cement. BTW, Reef Photo recommended epoxy. HTH
  8. More likely, Im overly cautious... However, for a little bit of extra time and effort, Im more than happy that Ive still got functioning strobes... 🤙
  9. Use a smaller aperture, to increase DoF, and continuous autofocus... The smaller aperture will also require a long shutter opening, to get a reasonable background exposure, and increase the amount of trailing blur... then, trip the shutter a bit before the subject in in the best position... Takes some practice, but its not difficult...
  10. For sure... until that day when they flood... Unfortunately, after several years of good service, both of my Sea & Sea strobes, independently, flooded in the last year... After those events, I used copious amounts of distilled water, followed by isopropyl alcohol, followed by packing with rice or silica gel packs to get as much moisture out as possible... To date, both strobes seem to function properly... Whew....
  11. Looking at the shape of the operculum (gill cover), I believe you are correct in thinking that its a mutton snapper. The way it has a small spike shape right on the caudal corner seems, to me, to be indicative of a Lutjanus analis.
  12. I cannot see how one could add the M28 port, without cutting and welding.... Im thinking that its a purchase new housing type upgrade...
  13. Perhaps... though I dont see the vertical bars that muttons have.... how big was the snapper?
  14. The top one looks to be a tobaccofish - Serranus tabacarius
  15. In situations like this, the importer/distributor are often independent business entities, and see grey market and other legitimate imports as money taken out of their pockets... Even in the US, which has (or had) fairly strong consumer protection laws, independent importers often have no obligation to repair under warranty, or even service for pay, products brought in from abroad. To me, this is awfully myopic, but it is a fairly prevalent attitude in many niche industries. That, to me, is a core problem with most enthusiast industries....
  16. @Larry C, I think that you may have hit the nail on the head, without knowing it.... If the PCB costs more than the strobe, its likely because theres just no demand for the PCB - at least in the eyes of the strobe marketer.... Think about it from the PCB vendors standpoint - the strobe marketer (I use that term because its likely that they very little of the actual production) has been told by the PCB supplier what the expected failure rate should be... Armed with that information, the strobe marketers financial department looks at the cost of purchasing a reserve quantity of PCBs vs. the profit to be gained from non-warranty sales... Im guessing that it makes absolutely no economic sense to provide the PCBs as replacement parts.... I used to work in the motorcycle industry and we would regularly get complaints for end users the would lose and/or alter some seemingly inconsequential bit of a larger system (e.g. the plunger rod that goes between the front brake lever and the master cylinder. Under normal use conditions, the failure rate on that particular piece was less than 0.001%.... If the component did fail, during the warranty period, we would just replace the entire front brake master cylinder, because that was cheaper than ordering and warehousing parts that we knew we had no chance of selling before all of the potential profit was eaten up by logistical costs...
  17. Bill, thanks for the input. Definitely got the batteries in correctly. The first two sets seemed to last in the 10,000 flash range. From the third set on, not so much so, the fourth set lasted about 100 trigger events... At first, I thought that it was the batteries, as I had bought some Nuon brand batteries, for rather cheap, from an online retailer. They not only couldnt power the trigger, but failed to keep my old Uwatec Aladin powered up for more than 20 minutes (sometimes, you get what you pay for... Doh!). The trigger is about 15 months old and has, perhaps, 30,000ish trigger event cycles.
  18. Hello Wetpixel, as stated in the title, my Nauticam mini flash trigger, for Olympus, seems to be killing its batteries in short order. The latest set lasted less than two hours of standby time and about 20 strobe activations before the trigger stopped functioning and the green led indicator on the trigger went dark.... Im just wondering if anyone else has experienced similar? Or, if anyone has any thoughts on the matter. I look forwards to your feedback!
  19. What airport(s) will you be going through? Ive had the housing swabbed a few times at more inland airports. Flying in and out of LAX has never been an issue with the camera kit as carry on.
  20. This is very true... mine went to 70 meters, a few times, and now they collapse by 24 meters... This is certainly not a great situation...
  21. See below thread.... http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63585&do=findComment&comment=404279
  22. Thank you, for the explanations. I guess that I forgot that the natural light filters, on the light sources, are to be used with a red filter on the camera, it now makes much more sense!
  23. My apologies, if this has been previously addressed, but why do no apostrophes show up in comments posted fromand read on my iPhone? I believe that it can cause confusion, if Im not very careful about my word selection....
  24. Ive read Alex Mustards writings on illumination color and warmer lighting, and it made sense to me. However, that seems to be in complete contradiction to the strategy that Keldan and others employ with their ambient light filters.... What am I missing?
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