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Tinman

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Tinman last won the day on April 24

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About Tinman

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  1. Simply collapse (fold) the strobe arms to tuck the strobe up against the side front side of the housing and tighten the clamps.Depending on the length and configuration of your arm setup, the arms will probably fold over the top of the housing. I use the straps that connect my housed camera and strobes to my BCD to make a center handle. The crew uses the handle to pass the camera rig to me after I enter the water and take the camera rig from me before I exit. Often, I extend the arms and pre-position the strobes as I'm descending. My safety stop on my ascent is a good time to collapse the arms and position the strobes for the camera rig's exit from the water. -AZTinman
  2. Hopefully, you've found someone to fix your RS issue on you side of the 'pond'. If not, you may want to contact Southern Nikonos in the Houston, Texas, area. I'm not sure how much work he did on the RS model, but he's been the go to guy for Nikonos repair in the United States for more years than most of us have been diving. He also has an incredible stash of Nikonos spare parts. -AZTinman
  3. Yes, switching from the D7100 to the D7200 did help with low-light auto-focus, but low-light can still be difficult. I encountered difficulties last week in Mexico with darker than usual water. There was a lot of junk in the water and the D7200 had problems locking onto subjects. Lens selection made a major difference. There were fewer issues with my Nikkor 60mm and Nikkor 10-24mm than with my Nikkor 16-85mm. The 16-85mm is an excellent lens if challenging visibility issues aren't present. I've never used a focus light on my D7100 or D7200. If you're diving in dark conditions, it might be a good idea to use one. I recently did some informal low-light comparison testing with my D7100, D7200, and D850. The D7200 outperformed the D7100. Of course, the D850 outperformed both of the cropped sensor cameras. Eventually, I'll house the D850. -AZTinman
  4. I put together two web straps with bronze snap rings on the ends. The straps clip to the housing tray and to my BCD harness D-rings. A lot of the areas I dive have California sea lions and they like to play 'snatch & grab' games with divers. I've had some experiences where they've grabbed the floats on my strobe arms and tried to take off with my camera rig. I wouldn't hook anything to my legs when sea lions are around. I've seen them grab dive knives right off divers' legs. The straps also can be configured to make a grab handle when boat crews are passing the camera to me in the water or taking it from me when I'm preparing to exit the water. -AZTinman
  5. FYI... Ikelite no longer makes sync cords to connect a Nikonos V to Ikelite strobes. I sent an inquiry to Ikelite several weeks ago regarding this. Also, Ikelite has no more of these sync cords in stock. On a positive note, the Nikonos to Ikelite strobes sync cords do show-up on the used market. While I haven't purchased one yet, I've seen several. I have several Nikons SB 105 strobes that I can use with my Nikonos cameras, but I wanted to have the option is using the camera with my Ikelite strobes. Considering the advancements made in trays and strobe placement over what was originally available for the Nikonos V, the original Nikonos tray with its double arms limits the ability to adjust strobe placement. When I put my Nikonos V outfit together, it's unbelievably awkward compared to my housed DSLR. For what it's worth, I guess the bottom line is that there are better tray options now. -AZTinman
  6. If you're buying a true glass dome port, Zen is making one for the Ikelite DL housings. Like most glass dome ports, it's pricey. Thanks for your comment about my Ikelite D7200 housing. When I get around to housing my D850, the D7200 housing will join a couple of Sea & Sea MDX D300 housings that underwater photography students will be using. It seems like used Nauticam housings show-up from time-to-time in the Classifieds. -AZTinman
  7. Is it just me or is that one of the smaller ThinkTank bags? It looks like a smaller model, but it could just be the angle perspective of the photograph. Handles with balls still mounted on the housing are a problem. For what it's worth, I think the issue of packing the housing with a mounted camera inside causing alignment issues really depends upon what housing one is using. I've never had any alignment issues with packing my Ikelite housing with the camera installed in my carry-on. The camera mounting system in my Sea & Sea housings locks the camera in place solidly. The soft Pelican roller bag I use fits in the overhead and holds my housing, camera, housing handles, two strobes, four strobe battery packs, three lenses, three port extensions, strobe arms w. floats, macro port, two strobe battery chargers, and two sync cords. Two dome ports for wide-angle lenses, cleaning/o-ring maintenance kit, two strap wrenches and camera battery charger fit with my computer in my under-the-seat bag. The under-the-seat bag zips onto the roller bag for the bag drag through the airport. -AZTinman
  8. For what it's worth, my efforts with digital SLRs for underwater started with a Nikon D7100 housed in an Ikelite housing. I bumped-up to a D7200 when the camera became available. Both cameras have worked very well. Photographs can be seen on my website (www.cortezbluephotography.com) if you're interested in taking a look. The only real limitation I've noted with my Ikelite housing (D7100/7200) is the fact that I can't use my Nikkor 17-55mm 2.8G DX lens. It's not a huge limitation because there are lots of excellent Nikkor alternatives. My Ikelite DS161 strobes have worked incredibly well too. I've crossed paths with quite a few underwater photographers who use different strobes and have expressed some frustration because of issues they've had. As I look at housing my Nikon D850, I'll probably look seriously at purchasing something other than an Ikelite housing. Affordability was a major issue when I assembled my D7100/7200 system and I not quite as concerned with that particular issue now. -AZTinman
  9. Wow! Thanks for this information and clarification regarding the issue. My housing required changing out the strobe control electronics when I switched from my D7100 to my D7200. Your issue might be be a quick, easy fix for the tech folks at Backscatter. -AZTinman
  10. Hmmmm... as was mentioned in the previous post, the mode dial and the locking buttons are identical on the D7100 and D7200. I don't use a Sea & Sea housing, but the controls on my housing work with both cameras. It would be interesting to see the problem you're encountering. -AZTinman
  11. Do these cables allow use of Nikonos strobes with a Sea & Sea housing or use of Sea & Sea strobes with a Nikonos camera? -AZTinman
  12. Part of my maintenance routine for strobes is to exercise the capacitors regularly. Basically, this involves running the strobes through discharge and charge cycles when I don't get to dive regularly. I do this routine with the strobes submerged in cold water. It would be interesting to see the Sea & Sea data regarding how much heat is actually retained by their strobe housings in an underwater environment. Plastic and metal are typically not very good insulators. Those materials usually conduct heat and cold pretty quickly and air doesn't work very well as an insulator either... just saying... -AZTinman
  13. I've got several old Nikonos SB 105 strobes what work rather well and have never presented any issues. I exercise the capacitors regularly. The down side is that I can only use the SB 105s with my Nikonos cameras because no one makes a sync cord to permit use of the 105s with any other housings. While I do enjoy shooting film with vintage cameras every now and then, it would be nice to be able to use the strobes with my digital housing. Of course, it's not unreasonable for companies to stop making parts for vintage equipment; there's very little profit in it. -AZTinman
  14. I had issues with an Ikelite DS161 strobe several years ago. The strobe stopped working during the first day of a trip to La Paz. I suspected issues with the battery pack and cursed a little over my failure to being a backup battery pack. When I returned, I called Ikelite and they directed me to send them both of my strobes. They fixed the problem strobe and did some a upgrade on both. In the end, I simply paid for shipping and they did the repair and upgrades under warranty. The work was done and the strobes were returned in less than two weeks. Both strobes continue to work very well. During a dive trip to Hawaii, an o-ring on one of my Ikelite battery packs failed. This was unusual as Ikelite o-rings are usually 'bomb-poof'. I'm not convinced I didn't do something wrong to flood the battery. When Ikelite dumped the use of lithium batteries, I took advantage of their exchange program and swapped my battery packs. As I look down the road towards housing my Nikon D850, and read threads about strobe issues others are having, I can't help but think staying with strobes made by a reputable American company with a commitment to customer service would be a good idea. -AZTinman
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