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Tinman last won the day on September 4 2020

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About Tinman

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  1. Most Nikonos lenses were well-regarded optically. I never bothered to pursue any third party accessories other than extensions for the shutter release/film advance levers on My Nikonos II and III cameras. The optical quality of the lenses made for the Nikonos RS were exceptional. Seacam offers a modification for several of these Nikonos R Series lenses that allows the lenses to be used with current Seacam housed Nikon DSLR's. I still maintain and occasionally use four Nikonos SB105 strobes. These have limited light output adjustment compared with newer strobes, but the SB105's still work. -Tinman
  2. The ISO lever on Nauticam's NA-D850 housing isn't in a great location, but I can change ISO on mine with just my right hand. I manipulate the ISO lever with my right index finger and use my right thumb to move the control dial. This allows me to change ISO settings while leaving the other fingers of my right hand loosely wrapped around the housing handle and without having to use my left hand. Of course this requires momentarlly removing my right index finger from the shutter lever. If my fingers were longer, I could probably use my right middle finger to trip the shutter lever if necessary. Keep in mind that changing the ISO setting doesn't require much movement of the control dial. The shift of finger position to make the adjustment can be done pretty quickly. -Tinman
  3. I had a good mentor when I worked for a small town newspaper back in the early-1970's. The editor of the newspaper noticed I was interested in photography and worked with me. The newspaper used medium format twin lens reflex cameras. Development of film and prints was all done in-house and expectations to produce usable images were very high. I would often be given camera with one roll of twelve exposure film and sent off to photograph events at the high school I attended. Expectations were that an exposed roll of film would have a minimum of six usable images. Not only did my boss expect to see well composed images, exposures had to be correct as well. The metering system on those old twin lens reflex cameras were pretty primitive compared to what we have available with a modern DSLR. Before I graduated from high school, the newspaper switched to 35mm SLR cameras. I was issued a Canon Ftb QL with a Canon 50mm f/1.2 lens. I ended-up switching to a Nikon F2 when I could afford to purchase my own camera. One of the downsides to pushing film above its intended ISO is grainy images. Of course, we can get the same thing nowadays by shooting digitally at high ISO's. Now, we call it noise. Images captured with film have a different texture than those produced digitally. When I published a book about California sea lions a few years ago, I used some film images in one of the chapters. Shortly after submitting the chapter to my publishing editor for review, she called me and told me she noticed I had used film for several of the images. I didn't even have to tell her which ones. It's hard to resist the urge to do the point & spray thing when we're using digital cameras with high capacity memory cards. Check my website: www.cortezbluephotography.com if you're interested in looking at my work. -Tinman
  4. I've done a lot of road trips into Mexico with underwater camera equipment and never had any issues with customs agents in Mexico. Regulations do limit the number of cameras you can bring, but I've never been questioned about how many cameras I've got. -Tinman
  5. Interesting post and video... yes, film can be fun, but you will not find many underwater photographers using it much any more. It is often hard to find developing labs and developing film is expensive. I have a good collection of Nikonos cameras and lenses that are still serviceable underwater. In addition, I also have a couple of housed Nikon film cameras (Nikon N8008s and Nikon F100). Prior to the beginning of the major pandemic shutdown stuff in 2019, I would occasionally pack a Nikonos or the N8008s on dive trips. I started diving back in 1989 when film cameras were the only option for underwater still photography. The problem I had when I started trying to capture images underwater with Nikonos cameras was that I could not dive enough to learn the cameras. When I relocated about twelve years ago to a location making more frequent dive travel possible, I unpacked the Nikonos equipment and started working with it again. I also invested in the equipment I needed to capture underwater images digitally as well. My occasional underwater use of film helped me slow down to compose my digital images more carefully. I learned a lot about the Nikonos camera system from the guy who ran Southern Nikonos. For example, I packed a Nikonos II and a Nikonos V out to Isla Guadalupe to pursue images of white sharks. The Nikonos V refused to work for me and I ended-up doing some dives with the Nikonos II. When I talked to Bob at Southern Nikonos about the issues with my Nikonos V, he asked me if I had put a new battery in it. When I confirmed that the battery was brand new, he told me to take it out, wipe my fingerprint oil off it and reinstall it. His solution worked perfectly. When I use my underwater film cameras, I usually use Fuji Velvia 100 film pushed to ISO 400. I also use black & white film from time to time, but I have never bothered to print any of the B&W images. During the height of the pandemic lockdown, someone sent me a Subal housing for a Nikon F100 camera. The housing needed some refurbishment. Tracking down parts took a while, but it's ready to go underwater. Nowadays, I usually pack several digital underwater camera systems when I travel into Mexico. I am usually working with student underwater photographers and need to have spare DSLR systems available if anyone has issues with cameras or housings. There are limits to how much gear I can pack so the film gear has not made any recent trips. The images were captured at Isla Guadalupe with a Nikonos II and 28mm lens. I did not use strobes so the images are too blue. -Tinman
  6. If you try the glueing thing, I'd definitely use a high quality CA type glue to stick it back together. I've never had much luck with the Home Depot variety of CA glues. -Tinman
  7. Thanks for the reminder, but I don't see anything listed for sale in any of these posts. The discussion involves a decision to repair a broken switch on a Sea & Sea YS-01 strobe or looking to replace it with a 'new' used one. -Tinman
  8. The repair folks really can't be faulted for wanting to look at the strobe before giving you any kind of ballpark quote regarding doing repair work. They really don't want to be put in a position of having to guess. I've got a couple Sea & Sea YS-01 strobes. If I had a cracked switch like you do, I'd probably try to fix the plastic switch with a quality CA type glue like Duncan's R/C sells in Phoenix. Duncan's is on East 35th Avenue. It's available in different viscosity; I wouldn't want the glue fusing the switch to the strobe housing so I'd use medium or maybe extra thick rather than the thinner versions. After the CA glue fully cured, I'd reinforce it with an epoxy designed for marine use. The asking price for these older used Sea & Sea strobes has dropped as the company has produced new models. I bought a pair a few years ago for $400.00 from a seller in California. While they're not my strobe of choice, they've proved to be solid strobes and work very well with one of my older Nauticam housings. Of course, if you're really attached to your Sea & Sea YS-01 strobes having the switch replaced by an authorized repair shop would be worth sending the strobe in. -Tinman
  9. I use a Nikon D7200 and usually shoot wide angle. My presets before entering the water are: Exposure Mode: Manual Release Mode: Single ISO: 200 Focus Point (Metering Mode): Spot (use the Multi selector to move the focus point as needed) Shutter Speed: 1/250 or 1/320 (depending upon lighting conditions) Aperture: f/8 Focus Mode Switch: Auto-Focus Depending upon what's happening in the water, I make adjustments as needed. If you're pursuing large animals at Socorro with decent ambient light, you may find yourself shooting with no strobes with a higher ISO and slower shutter speeds. Aperture adjustments may need to be adjusted as well. -Tinman
  10. Prices? -Tinman
  11. Don't Ikelite housings for the Olympus TG6 already have the connections for fiber optic cables? The Ikelite housings I've seen for the TG6 have fiber optic connections on top of the housing above the camera's built-in strobe. Are you sure you need to buy an adapter to get the cable plug ends? There's a whole thread specifically addressing DIY fiber optic cables. The posts in the thread actually have links to the parts necessary to build cables. -Tinman
  12. Nope, https://cjcphoto.net/ won't open any page for me. I'd really like to see your pics, but nothing seems to be working. -Tinman
  13. Kraken Hydra 1500 WSR probably has everything you want. -Tinman
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