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About MarkB

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Long Beach, California

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD E-M5, 12-50 mm zoom, 60 mm macro, 8 mm fisheye
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-EM5 Housing, 45 port with 20 mm extension ring and M67 diopter holder, 4.33 port
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS-D1 x2
  • Accessories
    ULCS 5",8" with 3 Stix floats x2, Sola photo 1200
  1. I just updated my firmware and can see the extra low ISO setting but I am not sure how to access the small focus point? Mark
  2. I have not tried it underwater yet but am using my strobes for some limited land photography and would like to use them with optical triggering and manual control.
  3. TTL is a little confusing. On page E12 of the S&S YS-D1 manual: When a fiber-optic cable is connected, DS-TTL mode is activated. (You can switch to Slave-TTL mode by pressing and holding down the target light switch for 3 seconds). I have done this and it works well with no fiberoptic (or otherwise) connection of the strobe to the camera. However, I would like to achieve manual (non-TTL) activation of my 2 YS-D1 strobes without the TTL function so that I can adjust the strobes as needed.
  4. I know the slave TTL mode is available and works well. However, is it possible to get manual mode (set the power of the strobe to be fired) in slave mode? Also, does anyone know where the slave sensor is on the YS-D1?
  5. I have tried using the auto and fill settings and have the same problem with both of those settings.
  6. I have an OMD EM5 and have set most of the settings to those suggested in the OMD thread. I have noticed that the camera meters very well when not using the flash. However, when using the supplied flash for land photography or the YS D1 strobes underwater or on land that the photos are 2-3 F stops darker. I have the flash compensation set to 0 so that should not be the problem. This occurs in all metering modes (spot, center and pattern) and in P or auto mode. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?
  7. What size cable is recommended (it goes from .25 to 1.0 mm)?
  8. I currently am only having the strobes with a few feet away from the camera as that is a long as the S&S fiber optic cords can stretch. The cable cost $80 which is not that cheap. I would like to know where I could get regular fiberoptic cords so cheaply as I do not really need the finished ends (since I can probably just stick the cut ends into the Nauticam housing and S&S strobe door.
  9. I could not find the slave eye that you mentioned. However, for land/studio use, simply duct taping the sensor door open is a very cheap solution. I also found that using the camera flash caused harsh shadows so I just put the OMD into the Nauticam housing and used the fiber optic connectors. This actually worked very well and the resulting photos are better than I expected. Using the housing is somewhat cumbersome I suspect that there another simpler solution. I would really like to hear what others have been doing. Mark
  10. How do you use the strobes in slave mode? I am using them too far away for the fiberoptic cable to connect. Without a fiberoptic cable, the slave/sensor is covered by the sensor cover and cannot sense the camera's flash. Other than taping the sensor door open, how do you use the strobe remotely without any fiberoptic cables? Mark
  11. Bill, thanks for your answer. I have read in older posts that there may be some issues with using the strobes on land at high flash rates (my use will be at quite low flash rates). However, I checked the S&S YS D1 manual and could not find any mention of land use for the strobes (other than taking a test shot). Is this warning still current and where can you find it? Mark
  12. I want to do some indoor photography with my OMD EM5 and need to use auxiliary flashes. Has anyone used these strobes above water and if so any recommendations? Also, how do you mount the strobes...separate stands? what type of connectors? I was even considering using my Nauticam housing but the strobes are clamped to the handles which are attached to the Nauticam tray (that cannot be attached to a tripod). Thanks in advance for any advice. Mark
  13. I did what to change it from fill to manual. You don't need to change the settings in the camera except that when shooting the strobes manually it is better to set the camera's manual setting to the lowest power (1/64) so that it recycles quicker. When going back to TTL, you should then reset the flash setting to Fill. Using the arrow button (which I now know how to do) makes this much quicker.
  14. I haven't seen this discussed recently. I am transitioning from film to digital underwater photography and am not sure about the type of light metering for exposure. I seems like many of the digital photographers guestimate their settings on full manual camera and strobe settings then adjust according depening upon the results after the picture is taken. However, for TTL and wide angle, I would like to know what type of metering is used for those using more automatic settings (and this may help when using the histogram or highlight/shadow info). Do most use center weighted for macro (like I used to do mostly for film)? Do you also use center weighted for wide angle or is matrix better? Also, for automatic settings, do some use shutter priority or aperture priority (or are there situation with which one works better than another?)? Mark
  15. I have a question concerning an earlier part of this thread about the settings of the OMD for underwater. I am trying to set the F2 button to the flash setting (so that I can change from TTL to manual quickly) but I can't seem to find that option on the menu. However, on the Button Funtion menu, my options skip from Magnify to OFF so I don't get a choice of the Flash Mode (the lightning symbol). Any idea of what I am doing wrong and how I can assign that function to the F2 button? Thanks, Mark
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