MarkB

Thanks for the info. Please let us know how the Sony 90 mm works with the A7R V after you get a chance to test it.

Phil, Can you comment on the speed and quality of focusing with the Sony 90 mm lens with the V? Is it similar to the A1?

Thanks Chris and Pavel. I assume that the ACC is more helpful when using a camera with a flash built in so as to save the camera's battery from firing its own flash. Which is why it is not very relevant for using a trigger? It clearly is faster to adjust the flash compensation via the camera in one step unless you need one flash to put out less power than the other. Mark

Pavel, Can the firmware not be updated over the internet rather than sending you the product?

Stuart, So, did following the video instruction work for you to get proper TTL? Also, I am thinking of getting the Inon Z330 strobes and am confused about what to do with the Advanced Cancel Circuit Switch. Does it stay neutral or locked down or locked up so that you can still use the compensation dial on the Inon strobes?

I read your review on the UW technics TTL/converter and it sounds pretty good especially for some of my needs such as macro photography at night. I am thinking very strongly about getting the just released Sony A7R V with the recently announced and hopefully available Nauticam housing. I am also going to purchase the new YS–D3 II strobes. There is no listing of compatibility on the website of the converter whether it will work with the new camera and especially the new strobe. I did try to message them but their website must have a glitch because it did not go through. I can see where there is compatibility with the A1 but I do not see where it states compatibility with the similar A7R IV camera (although the review suggest that it should work in that camera so I assume it should work also in the newer V version). Any thoughts or help with this would be appreciated.

Any idea how the Sony 90 mm lens will autofocus with the new A7R V camera? Aside for the updated AI for focusing on objects and critters, will it autofocus as fast as the A1?

I just updated my firmware and can see the extra low ISO setting but I am not sure how to access the small focus point? Mark

I have not tried it underwater yet but am using my strobes for some limited land photography and would like to use them with optical triggering and manual control.

TTL is a little confusing. On page E12 of the S&S YS-D1 manual: When a fiber-optic cable is connected, DS-TTL mode is activated. (You can switch to Slave-TTL mode by pressing and holding down the target light switch for 3 seconds). I have done this and it works well with no fiberoptic (or otherwise) connection of the strobe to the camera. However, I would like to achieve manual (non-TTL) activation of my 2 YS-D1 strobes without the TTL function so that I can adjust the strobes as needed.

I know the slave TTL mode is available and works well. However, is it possible to get manual mode (set the power of the strobe to be fired) in slave mode? Also, does anyone know where the slave sensor is on the YS-D1?

I have tried using the auto and fill settings and have the same problem with both of those settings.

I have an OMD EM5 and have set most of the settings to those suggested in the OMD thread. I have noticed that the camera meters very well when not using the flash. However, when using the supplied flash for land photography or the YS D1 strobes underwater or on land that the photos are 2-3 F stops darker. I have the flash compensation set to 0 so that should not be the problem. This occurs in all metering modes (spot, center and pattern) and in P or auto mode. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?

What size cable is recommended (it goes from .25 to 1.0 mm)?

I currently am only having the strobes with a few feet away from the camera as that is a long as the S&S fiber optic cords can stretch. The cable cost $80 which is not that cheap. I would like to know where I could get regular fiberoptic cords so cheaply as I do not really need the finished ends (since I can probably just stick the cut ends into the Nauticam housing and S&S strobe door.