MarkB

Thanks for the info. Please let us know how the Sony 90 mm works with the A7R V after you get a chance to test it.

Phil, Can you comment on the speed and quality of focusing with the Sony 90 mm lens with the V? Is it similar to the A1?

Thanks Chris and Pavel. I assume that the ACC is more helpful when using a camera with a flash built in so as to save the camera's battery from firing its own flash. Which is why it is not very relevant for using a trigger? It clearly is faster to adjust the flash compensation via the camera in one step unless you need one flash to put out less power than the other. Mark

Pavel, Can the firmware not be updated over the internet rather than sending you the product?

Stuart, So, did following the video instruction work for you to get proper TTL? Also, I am thinking of getting the Inon Z330 strobes and am confused about what to do with the Advanced Cancel Circuit Switch. Does it stay neutral or locked down or locked up so that you can still use the compensation dial on the Inon strobes?

I read your review on the UW technics TTL/converter and it sounds pretty good especially for some of my needs such as macro photography at night. I am thinking very strongly about getting the just released Sony A7R V with the recently announced and hopefully available Nauticam housing. I am also going to purchase the new YS–D3 II strobes. There is no listing of compatibility on the website of the converter whether it will work with the new camera and especially the new strobe. I did try to message them but their website must have a glitch because it did not go through. I can see where there is compatibility with the A1 but I do not see where it states compatibility with the similar A7R IV camera (although the review suggest that it should work in that camera so I assume it should work also in the newer V version). Any thoughts or help with this would be appreciated.

Any idea how the Sony 90 mm lens will autofocus with the new A7R V camera? Aside for the updated AI for focusing on objects and critters, will it autofocus as fast as the A1?

I just updated my firmware and can see the extra low ISO setting but I am not sure how to access the small focus point? Mark

I have not tried it underwater yet but am using my strobes for some limited land photography and would like to use them with optical triggering and manual control.

TTL is a little confusing. On page E12 of the S&S YS-D1 manual: When a fiber-optic cable is connected, DS-TTL mode is activated. (You can switch to Slave-TTL mode by pressing and holding down the target light switch for 3 seconds). I have done this and it works well with no fiberoptic (or otherwise) connection of the strobe to the camera. However, I would like to achieve manual (non-TTL) activation of my 2 YS-D1 strobes without the TTL function so that I can adjust the strobes as needed.

I know the slave TTL mode is available and works well. However, is it possible to get manual mode (set the power of the strobe to be fired) in slave mode? Also, does anyone know where the slave sensor is on the YS-D1?

I have tried using the auto and fill settings and have the same problem with both of those settings.

I have an OMD EM5 and have set most of the settings to those suggested in the OMD thread. I have noticed that the camera meters very well when not using the flash. However, when using the supplied flash for land photography or the YS D1 strobes underwater or on land that the photos are 2-3 F stops darker. I have the flash compensation set to 0 so that should not be the problem. This occurs in all metering modes (spot, center and pattern) and in P or auto mode. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?

What size cable is recommended (it goes from .25 to 1.0 mm)?

I currently am only having the strobes with a few feet away from the camera as that is a long as the S&S fiber optic cords can stretch. The cable cost $80 which is not that cheap. I would like to know where I could get regular fiberoptic cords so cheaply as I do not really need the finished ends (since I can probably just stick the cut ends into the Nauticam housing and S&S strobe door.

I could not find the slave eye that you mentioned. However, for land/studio use, simply duct taping the sensor door open is a very cheap solution. I also found that using the camera flash caused harsh shadows so I just put the OMD into the Nauticam housing and used the fiber optic connectors. This actually worked very well and the resulting photos are better than I expected. Using the housing is somewhat cumbersome I suspect that there another simpler solution. I would really like to hear what others have been doing. Mark

How do you use the strobes in slave mode? I am using them too far away for the fiberoptic cable to connect. Without a fiberoptic cable, the slave/sensor is covered by the sensor cover and cannot sense the camera's flash. Other than taping the sensor door open, how do you use the strobe remotely without any fiberoptic cables? Mark

Bill, thanks for your answer. I have read in older posts that there may be some issues with using the strobes on land at high flash rates (my use will be at quite low flash rates). However, I checked the S&S YS D1 manual and could not find any mention of land use for the strobes (other than taking a test shot). Is this warning still current and where can you find it? Mark

I want to do some indoor photography with my OMD EM5 and need to use auxiliary flashes. Has anyone used these strobes above water and if so any recommendations? Also, how do you mount the strobes...separate stands? what type of connectors? I was even considering using my Nauticam housing but the strobes are clamped to the handles which are attached to the Nauticam tray (that cannot be attached to a tripod). Thanks in advance for any advice. Mark

I did what to change it from fill to manual. You don't need to change the settings in the camera except that when shooting the strobes manually it is better to set the camera's manual setting to the lowest power (1/64) so that it recycles quicker. When going back to TTL, you should then reset the flash setting to Fill. Using the arrow button (which I now know how to do) makes this much quicker.

I haven't seen this discussed recently. I am transitioning from film to digital underwater photography and am not sure about the type of light metering for exposure. I seems like many of the digital photographers guestimate their settings on full manual camera and strobe settings then adjust according depening upon the results after the picture is taken. However, for TTL and wide angle, I would like to know what type of metering is used for those using more automatic settings (and this may help when using the histogram or highlight/shadow info). Do most use center weighted for macro (like I used to do mostly for film)? Do you also use center weighted for wide angle or is matrix better? Also, for automatic settings, do some use shutter priority or aperture priority (or are there situation with which one works better than another?)? Mark

I have a question concerning an earlier part of this thread about the settings of the OMD for underwater. I am trying to set the F2 button to the flash setting (so that I can change from TTL to manual quickly) but I can't seem to find that option on the menu. However, on the Button Funtion menu, my options skip from Magnify to OFF so I don't get a choice of the Flash Mode (the lightning symbol). Any idea of what I am doing wrong and how I can assign that function to the F2 button? Thanks, Mark

Thanks Bill. Once you pointed out the correct place, it is easy to see. I guess I thought that it was clear plastic instead of a hole and with my not so great vision, it was hard to see it. Thanks again, Mark

I have been looking very hard for those small molded loops (with monocular contacts so I may have missed it) but cannot find them. Can you post a picture (blown up hopefully) so I can find those loops?? Thanks.

It is easy to connect the lanyard string supplied with the YS-D1 to the diffuser. However, the manual shows attaching the strobe end to the YS adapter. I am using the ball connector so cannot find anyplace to attach the strobe end of the string lanyard. Any ideas where to attach the string so that I don't lose the diffuser when underwater?