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About TotDoc

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  • Location
    Tampa, FL

Additional Info

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OMD
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    S&S YS D1
  • Accessories
    Nauticam control arms, ULCS clamps, Nauticam Flexitray II
  1. That's really helpful information! Good point about the sensitivity of the camera. Unfortunately I am using an olympus OMD and a gopro for my video, not a high sensitivity monster like what you mentioned. I'll have to push some lumens to make things pretty! VERY good point about the filters, though. I guess if I am considering using those, I might as well go for the higher lumens for the reef work, and worry less about the CRI. I'm also happy to hear that there probably isn't a major difference between the 82 and 96 CRI lights if they are not side by side. I would really like to make sure I am getting good lighting if I am dropping this much cash on lights, but let's be honest - I'm not paying my bills based on this video. As much as I love your suggestion of getting the best of both worlds with the gates lights, they are just outside of my pricepoint. I really wish I could pull those off - they look awesome! Anyway, thanks so much for all your input!
  2. I am planning on picking up some Keldan 8x lights this year, but I'm stuck on which model to pick up - the 12k flux or 8k CRI model. I plan to do video in a mix of environments - largely cave and reef. And the reef will involve a significant amount of daytime use, possibly even with the cyan filters. Being honest with myself, I likely don't NEED the 12k lumens from the 8x flux, but what I was hoping for is the ability to extend the duration of the light without needing a battery change by dialing the light down. For cave rebreather dives, run times can be rather long, and I didn't think that 45 minutes of burn time would quite cut it, otherwise the 4x with 7k lumens would likely have been enough. Anyway, with keeping in mind that I was planning on running the lights at the second highest setting to keep light durations longer, it makes me a little hesitant to get the CRI model of the light, because of the drastically reduced lumen output. Certainly I don't NEED 12k lumens - although in bigger cave passage, there are certainly times I would like to dial it up. My concern is that the CRI version only has 8k lumens - and that is a big drop from the 12k on the flux version. Not only does that significantly decrease the available light output for big passage, but it makes me worried that I won't have enough headroom to decrease the light output for the majority of the dive to extend the burn time. I have no doubt that the CRI version will make for some pretty video, especially on the reef. I just don't know if the lower CRI flux version will also be good enough. I am sure there are apparent differences in a side by side comparison, but I really don't know if I would see the difference without a direct comparison - I have never had the chance to work with high CRI lights before. So with all this in mind, I have a couple questions. #1: 82 vs 96 CRI - is the CRI bump alone worth accepting a 33% decrease in lumen output from 12k to 8k? #2: Even in a cave environment with no natural light, am I overestimating the importance of lumen output? For example - is 3-4k lumens enough, and 12k lumens would never really be useful anyway? #3: If CRI of 82 IS good enough that the CRI version isn't really necessary, AND I am overestimating the importance of lumen output here, am I better off just getting the 4x lights at a significantly decreased cost? Thanks for your input!
  3. Thanks for the input! 2/2 say go for the Keldans - so it looks like that is the way I will go. I have been drooling over them for a while anyway...
  4. Wow...nobody has an opinion on this one, eh?
  5. I have been debating picking up a set of video lights - looking to get some higher lumen lights for both cave diving and open water diving. Since I want to use them in open water, I'd love to get some higher CRI lights to save effort in post processing. I have used low CRI floods before, and I was never super happy with the results. This has led me to look at a number of high end lights, and now I'm not really sure which way to go. What I'm considering: Keldan 4x video flux lights: 7000 lumen, 82 CRI, 110 degree Fix Aquavolt 10000 lumen, 91 CRI, 100 degree Light & Motion Sola Pro 9600 lumen, ? CRI, 90 degree All lights are relatively similar in price. The Keldans have a really smooth beam, and I know they are some seriously intense lights, and I really love the soft falloff of the edge of the beam. I have never seen the other lights, but I know they have a good reputation, and have heard they have a nice soft edge as well. The Aquavolt has a little more light, for a little more money, but I like it that it has a controller for adjusting it remotely. The downside here, other than the extra cost, is the increase in bulk and weight of the lights. They might be a bit big to put on a goodman handle with a GoPro, which I think I would do with the Keldans now and then. The Sola beam should be really intense, especially since they are packing 9600 lumen into a more narrow angle, but I am worried that might make for a harsher falloff at the edge of the beam. Also, I'm a little concerned about not having the ability to replace the battery, though I do love the fast charge feature. I also really like the time remaining displays on the Aquavolt and Sola lights, though Keldan has a battery meter, too. Keldans also have the ability to add on their cyan filter for ambient light appearance, which I think is a pretty cool concept. Does anyone have any practical experience in comparison of these lights? My heart has me going with the Keldans, but I think it's because I don't have enough experience with the other options... Thanks!
  6. Thanks you guys. I ended up using the housing today with the airlock, and I wedged the electronics in between the camera and the lower left corner of the case. I wasn't able to attach it to the wall, but it was held in nice and snug by the camera, and it seemed to work well. It is a tight fit everywhere in there!
  7. I'm feeling a little bummed about this one...I spoke with the service manager at Backscatter, and they said they have never installed the electronic airlock in the NA-EM5, so they are not sure the best place for it to be mounted. Worse yet, they don't have one of these housings in stock so they can check it out themselves. If someone has one of these, PLEASE take a pic and let me know where you managed to mount the electronics. Hopefully someone out there has done it! Thanks!
  8. I have the Backscatter electronic airlock for my EM5 in the Nauticam housing. I was trying to figure where I should mount the electronics inside, but it seems like everywhere I looked to mount it would cause some problems changing the battery or with clearance. Where is the best spot to mount the electronics board? Thanks!
  9. I used them for a pair of ysd1 strobes about 6 months ago. Had a great experience with them, and their prices are amazing
  10. The 8mm and the 7-14 zoom are the best wide angle options for the OMD. Both will work great for whale sharks. I have both, and both are very enjoyable to work with. The 8mm FE is a bit wider of a lens. The 7-14 has the added advantage of being a useful topside lens. I don't get much use from my 8mm topside. I think the best way to decide which one is best is to look at a bunch of pictures from fish eye lenses vs rectilinear lenses and see which perspective you like the best. I wouldn't worry about trying to find pics specifically taken by these lenses to make your comparison - I would just decide which perspective through the lens you enjoy the most. Both lenses are plenty sharp. For your stated purpose of taking pics of whale sharks, though, you can't go wrong with either lens.
  11. I recently had this port show up at my door. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it looks pretty nice! I have never seen a formal review on this port, but I do know that Alex Mustard had borrowed one from someone earlier this year and posted some nice pics using it on his facebook. He said it worked well for him, and that was good enough for me to take the leap and buy one sight unseen. It is the same dimensions as the nauticam port, except it is optical glass instead of acrylic. They even make replacement glass that goes in the nauticam port. Thought this was worth mentioning about this port since someone was asking about the 8mm FE
  12. So I ended up getting a FIT 2400 UV video version. I can't wait to get this thing in the water! The light is very bright, wide, and has very smooth light distribution. I only notice a central hot spot when very close to a wall, but this rapidly fades with a little distance. The controls are very easy to flip between different modes using the 2 buttons. I really like it that one button is dedicated to changing the intensity and the other is for changing modes. The purple and UV lights are really nice, too - testing it on some things around the house, it does a great job of making things glow nice and bright. I did a quick comparison vs a pair of 1000 lumen flood lights on my go pro setup. They are not high end by a long shot, but this single light has a larger, brighter, and more uniform distribution of light than the pair of those lights ever did. I imagine this will work well for some casual video use. Overall, I'm very pleased with the purchase. Oh, and the build quality appears to be very good, also. Nice solid little light.
  13. I am doing mostly stills and a little bit of video. As it turns out, I just put in an order for the FIT 2400 UV version today. We shall see how it works out, but I have a good feeling about this light. 2400 lumens, cheap user replaceable chargeable batteries just like the i-torch, and it has white, red, blue, and UV lights built in! I like it that this will be a jack of all trades light. If I find myself shooting more video than I thought, I will add higher power dedicated video lights sometime down the road, but I think this will hold me over for some time
  14. Oh yeah, I saw this discussion too! Sorry I didn't mention that one!
  15. glad you sold that viewfinder. it broke my heart when I saw you decided to separate the package - I ordered a new viewfinder and it had shipped the day before you posted that yours was now for sale! Oh well, I guess some patience could have saved me a nice chunk of change there!
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