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Everything posted by kerryw

  1. I have 2 Inon z240 Type 3 strobes for sale includes 1.5 & 0.5 stop diffusers, red lenses and spare o-rings, a few other bits 7 pieces, lightly used. 325.00 ea located in Canada, buyer pays shipping & insurance. Thanks Kerry PLEASE NOTE I HAVE EDITED THIS LISTING THE STROBES ARE ACTUALLY TYPE 3 NO OTHER CHANGES
  2. I've done 1 trip to Soccorro on the nautilus and several others in the Pacific NW, always had a good time on the boat! As far as Schooling hammerheads, we saw one school but it was deep during a drift dive. Lots of Silkies, whitetips, manta rays we also saw single hammerheads. Pretty interesting spot to dive. I did the trip in December/January and got by with a 3mm suit but I dive mostly in the Pacific NW (42f last weekend at 30feet) so take my comments about water temp accordingly I think it was around 78-80.. Kerry
  3. Hmm news to me, I so far only use the housing with a macro wet lens. It comes with two ports one for wide angle and one for standard/macro. I don't see any flaw it the system but maybe i'm missing something, oh and I have WA wet lens on Backorder.. Kerry
  4. http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/control_parts.html might help
  5. Hello all I have an Canon A640 in an Ikelite housing and I would like to improve the macro shots I am getting with this setup. basically coming from a Nikonos background I would like to get 1:2 or even 1:1 macro out of this setup. Now I know it can do this already but the problem is the subject get very close to the housing port or you have to Zoom to tele setting and get too much water between you and the subject. I assume that the Inon macro lens would increase the fous distance when the camera is set to WA in Macro mode but not so much as to make it too far. Also i assume it would increase the magnification. Am I on the right track here?? thanks KLW Pics with my current set up here http://klw-web.com/photo/albums/Recent_Pics/galleries.htm
  6. I've just purchased a Canon A640 in an Ikelite housing, I have not had much chance to try out except in cold water and poor vis but it seems like it would to the job tropically, advantages are, full manual control and if you want to use a hack, RAW. nice little camera for above water as well. You might also consider the Canon housing for it but I prefer the Ikelite, since you can't add a WA lens to the Canon that would probably be a deal breaker for you. KLW
  7. Figured it would, nice to hear confirmed however as I will be buying an A640/ikelite setup shortly. Nice Gallery by the way, I'm thinking of Bonaire this fall is work allows... KLW
  8. I'm pretty sure this hack would have no effect on warranty since it makes no changes to the original firmware. It loads everytime you start the camera from the card. KLW
  9. Two things that come to mind immediately are the abiltiy to use auxillary lenses and product service/support, Ikelite is known for it's customer service. But yeah it is expensive... Also I believe there is no preflash when the A640 is in manual mode, but I don't own the camera so I might be wrong. KLW
  10. Yes thanks, I have looked here and it does both help and add to the confusion :-) One thing I notice is that they list Ikelite's DS-51 as able to both ignore and mimic preflash. This is news to me I thought using the manual controller it would only ignore the preflash, or perhaps it will mimic if hard wired to a DSLR??? I should also have mentioned I'm the type of person who buys gear once a decade or longer :-) so what I buy now will have to do for quite some time thus I'm thinking about the Inon, but of course I have 15 years of great Ikelite service im my past. Thanks Kerry
  11. Thanks for the responses. I admit to being intrigued by the Inon products and S-TTL and External Auto mode. I'm also looking at some of the cheaper Sea&Sea offerings like the YS-15 and YS27. Correct me if I am wrong but any strobe with optical sync and variable power settings should work similar to the Ikelite model right??? Any Inon users out there want to try and convince me to spend the extra dollars? It was easier when there was really only Ike and Nikon Strobes to pick from in the old days (ok and my first old used Subsea) Thanks Kerry
  12. Hello all I'm getting pretty close to picking out a digicam system but I am a bit stuck on the strobe options. I'm a long time Nikonos user with a couple of Ikelite Substrobe 50's and know I'll need a new strobe for the new rig. The options as I see it are: 1. Cheap, Fantasea nano, or Sealife, both optic sync to the digicams internal flash Question do they fire and quench with the digicam's strobe or just fire and full dump every time? 2. Ikelite DS51 w/manual controller. Sort of mid priced, I'm a bit unsure of the manual controller route, I'd love to hear comments on how easy it is to get the right exposure wit this rig. I confess to being a TTL user with the Nikonos, I've got strobe to subject distance so that in combination with TTL everythgin works out "most" times. 3. Inon or Sea&Sea most $$ but most features, if I were to go this route I'm leaning towards the Inon 2000 as it looks like it has a lot of features, can anyone confirm the features a) work and B) are worth it Feel free to try and confuse me with more options I may have missed. FYI the camera looks like it will be a Canon A640 in and Ike housing. a second dtrobe will be added after I master whatever strobe I get initially. And shots will be 75% macro 25% WA. Thanks Kerry
  13. Thanks for the additional info I had forgotten you could use the Ike strobes corded with this camera. That does make a bit of a difference. Anyone have any other comments re the original question/setup. thanks Kerry
  14. Nice shots, it certainly looks like the camera can perform u/w. I had discounted it due to rumours about poor batterly life and excessive shutter lag. Any comments on those two points? Also i assume you are using the Ike manual controller, I'd be interested in hearing any thoughts on it. I have never used anuthing other than an Ike strobe underwter (ok about 10 dives with a SubSea) so i so have a soft spot fo the company. Thanks for the input Kerry
  15. Hi folks, I've been shooting Nikonos underwater for 15 or so years (NIK I and NIK V) I currently use a NIK V and 2 Ikelite Substrobe 50's. Currently I shoot mostly cold water macro but I'm hoping to add more torpical macro and WA in the near future. I want a nice small compact set up that is easy to transport and easy to bive with, just like the Nikonos. budget is an issue I've pretty much decided on a Canon A630/640 (not sure if the extra MP's are worth it in a Digicam) in a Ikleite housing, what I am unsure of is the strobe.... I'm not sure I like Ike's manual controller approach, Inon 2000S sounds intriguing and it looks like it works good but it is also probably at the top of my budget. Any comments on other options particularly Sea&Sea or some of the cheaper brands?? Also if anyone is using the A630/640 underwater 9or topside for that matter) I'd be intersted in your thoughts I do shoot DSLR topside but I have no desire to go to the size or expense of housing it... Thanks Kerry
  16. Folks i have posted a simialr question on digital Diver so if you read both you only need reply in one unless you feel your reply will be of use to other. I can find anything about this exact topic in a search, no mention of strobes this old. So here is what i have found out.. The F810 is not a preflash camera. The F810 controls flash real time (that is it measures actual light arriving at the camera and quenches the strobe whe it thinks the exposure is correct) The F810 is not TTL it has an external sensor to measure light (some lens might block this) Now here is what I was thinking. I am looking at replacing my Nikonos V (a sad day really) with a nice small digital rig for travel photography underwater. Price is an issue and since I currently have two Ikelite strobes (a SS50 and a MV) I would like to re-use these strobes at least initially with the F810 in an Ikelite housing. I have the optical TTL slave sensors from Ikelite (now discontinues in favour of the Digial slave sensor). I assume I can use these to trigger the older substrobes from the F810's internal flash. Now at last the question I also assume that if I trigger these older substrobes from the F810's internal fash, they will effectively mimic the internal flash and provide correct exposure???? I know this might all fall apart if say a wide angle lens blocks the camer sensor but then I assume I can still use the internal flash to trigger these strobes and use strobe to subject distance to control exposure (anyone remember doing that) ?? There seems to be a great deal of knowledge here so if I have made a fundamental error in assumptions here let me know. Also feel free to suggest alteratives but please keep in mind Price and Size are my main considerations, oh and of course good image quality. thanks Kerry
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