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Stuart Cove. Tiger Beach in a few months. Was thinking for extreme close ups, eg with feeding, the 20 prime might be better without the distortion. Will stick with the 8-15.

Next week diving Bahamas. Hopefully close up reef shark opportunity. Canon 5d3 with dual Ikelites. Cant decide between 8-15 fisheye or a 20 prime. I expect one dive with much close ups; second likely a wreck with greater distance to deal with. Thoughts on the choice? Thanks much, Jim

I picked up 2 of these. I have no means to measure the output but the specs on the LEDs would confirm that 8K lumens is correct. The build quality is fine. I have not yet detected any color temp issues. I am shooting Canon Magic Lantern RAW video and GoPro 5 4k. Have taken these lights only on two shallow macro dives and they did fine. See review of a branded version of the light here: https://nemopowertools.com/divelightblog/the-best-new-dive-light-of-2017-the-max-planck-8000/. 2 of these lights put out 16K L. With batteries,total cost is under $250. Crazy value if they keep working.

Also Posted on the DSLR housing forum. I have the large Ikelite port dome with shade. I mount a GoPro either on the strobe arm or on the housing top. I have noticed a few divers with the GoPro quick release plate affixed to the top of similar dome port shades. This would free up the housing for other stuff, like focus lights. Has anyone mounted a GoPro to their dome shade in this manner? How? Pros and Cons of mounting here? Thanks.

If the 125 is still available, what is the serial number?

Heading to Great Exuma in December. Anyone have any advice or recommendations on dive operators or sites? Will bring the big wide-angle rig.

Marjo: reviving this thread. and not laughing, nice job with this. I am building the same fiber optic snoot for one of my Ikelite 125s. What product did you use to cover the strobe and screw the loc-line into? Is it adhered or screwed to the strobe in any way? Btw, how's your technique now? some good results? advice?

Harry: any updates. Did you do the Bridge? thoughts? comparisons? Jim

On three dives, I experimented with magenta and amber adjustments and the results were mediocre at best. Manually white balancing at depth (off my slate or grey fins) still produced the better results.

Thanks. I suspect you are right. Magic Filters look interesting. Filtering out blues before the sensor makes sense to me. Any issues when you switch to stills with strobes and shoot RAW?

Am curious whether any of you have tried to replicate underwater filters with in-camera color temperature and/or tint (eg, magenta or amber shift) adjustments? The ideal would be the creation of a chart showing Kelvin levels and Magenta/Amber shift for water type (e.g., tropical blue or green) and depth. I shoot with a Canon 5D2 but have not been wholly satisfied with manual white balancing for video (without video lighting). As an alternative to external filters, I wanted to experiment with setting color temperature and tint (toward magenta and amber) depending on depth and water type (blue/tropical vs. green) as an experimental alternative to custom/manual WB setting. Manufacturers do not appear to publish these specifications (e.g., the 3 flip filters for the GoPro, the Ikelite filters etc…). Fundamental Question: when you set a custom white balance, does it impact magenta and green? I assume (probably incorrectly), that only the relative blue and amber levels are adjusted. If so, boosting magenta levels at depth would also seem to make sense. My Canon enables me to set color temp (obviously) and a color shift to any of Blue, Green, Amber or Magenta (Canon claims these adjustments are equivalent to color correction filters). See chart for how the Canon can make these adjustments. Just trying to get in the ball park to compare to manual white balance results with video (sans lights). Thanks. Jim

Picked up a 5505.45 flat port to use with my 5d2. The 28-135 fits in the port but is too wide to use the focus/zoom gears (so you have to pick and stick with one focal length). With the lens set at 100, it worked fine. Can't go much under 60mm without the lens seeing the port. The port works with the Canon 100 macro lenses, so there is an upgrade path.

Reviving this thread to see if anyone else has had success with the canon 28-135 with an Ikelite port. I'd likely restrict it to the 70-100 range with a diopter. The Ikelite 5.5" flat port 5505.5 looks like the logical choice. I have the 8" dome port for my wide angle lens but would not think that it would a good match for the 28-135. thanks.

Jim: were you able to resolve this? Am curious whether this is a problem for all when using the 5D2 in the 5D housing.