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ksporry

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ksporry last won the day on April 27 2014

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About ksporry

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  1. Actually, I don't just kneel or stand anywhere. This is always during instruction sessions and always on sand or dead rock/rubble. Never anywhere where it could potentially do harm to aquatic life. I'm very conscious about aquatic life when I'm diving, which is why I flag this up as an issue that I'm hoping to address with new lightweight but slightly negatively buoyant fins. (if I can't fin backward, that introduces more risk). I also did get my PPB, but I got that before I got my own gear. The 2 PPB dives do not teach a diver sufficient trimming or buoyancy effects of gear and its use. This is an interesting point that I may try out. I don't use a dry or wet suit. I only dive with a rash guard and shorts as it's usually 28 degC in the water. However, I did get the feeling that I could do with less weight (e.g. at the end of the dive I still have some air in my BCD to keep me neutral, and that's with a 15l tank). Currently I'm on 4kg. I'll try to reduce that to 3 and see if my trim gets better as a result. As a note, a camera can definitely affect buoyancy and trim. If the camera is 1kg negatively buoyant then thats extra weight. I actually used that to trim my position with my previous BCD. If i wanted to be more head down I pushed out my camera, and if I wanted to be more feet down I pulled it in. With my current camera rig, BCD and fins I'm nicely horizontal, except my feet want to go up. So I'll try out that theory about less weight and less air before changing more gear...
  2. I'm sure my camera weight/buoyancy affects my trim, but the point is to have a good trim with camera. My camera is a bit negatively buoyant (I have an EPL5 with nauticam housing, 2 Z240's, with either a 6" dome port or a macro port. I used INON 24cm floats with 24cm sticks, I now changed that to h2o floats, both 28, one 3 cm diameter, another 4,5 cm diameter. I tried 24 + 28cm INON floats but that was too buoyant. The new setup should be somewhere in between). However, i don't think I should consider the camera buoyancy to be the problem. Because, when I stand on one knee on the bottom, that's a position thats difficult because my feet constantly want to float (i.e I need to push them down). During photography It makes my positioning very uncomfortable as it tends to result in me arching my back more than is comfortable for a long period of time, which ends up sore at the end of the day. I think with neutral or slightly negatively buoyant fins I might be in a more comfortable position.
  3. So, I think what we see here is a whole mix of different buoyancy control mechanisms. Buoyancy of your camera is a personal thing I believe. Different people have different preferences. At ADEX I was talking to a german guy from h2o tools. I got a few float arms of them. They guy expressed that he wants his camera perfectly neutrally buoyant, and he said that was the way to go. I told him I disagreed. I personally want my rig to be slightly negatively buoyant and in a decent trim. Having it negatively buoyant gives me a more stable feeling when handling the rig. The guy actually insisted neutrally buoyant was the way to go, and I just told him again I preferred slightly negative, and said its a personal thing (I'm actually wondering if he was trying a sales pitch, which I absolutely hate. Especially when someone already expressed their preferences, which should indicate they experimented and found what they prefer). Anyway, my point is, because it's a personal thing, you can play with any and all mechanisms to do a mix and match for your personal optimum.
  4. Guys, I have a question related to getting my trim right. I currently have scubapro Nova Wings. They are brilliant fins, but have one drawback: They make my feet float, which makes it damn hard to manoeuvre (especially reversing). I'm using neoprene zip boots. I'm looking for a solution to bring buoyancy to neutral or negative. Can anyone give me a suggestion that will help keep my feet from floating up without the use of ankle weights? Are there solutions that allow me to continue to use the nova wings and my booties, or should I be looking into new fins? I looked at the above and from further research i did online, the scubapro jet max fins, and equivalents are fairly heavy to use. The diverite EXPs seem to be quite stiff, but I have no idea if that's good or bad to be honest. Note that so far I've not been able to locate them where I am (I'm in Shanghai). I heard the scubapro twin jets are slightly negatively buoyant (but haven't found those locally either). I can get the twin jet max, but I don't know if those are negatively buoyant or not. Are there any other, more traditional fins, that are neutral or negatively buoyant? PS, I got about size 45 (EU) or 11 (UK). That may limit what fins would be suitable. Thanks!
  5. I realised this afternoon that the 3-way clamps could do what I want. I'll explore that possibility. It may not seem necessary in water, but forces are still forces, and I feel more comfortable with some stiffness. eliminates vibrations too...
  6. Hi Guys, I recently got the attached setup for my underwater camera (Olympus camera, Nauticam housing and Z240 strobes). With this configuration I noticed that the handle bars are quite unstable for this setup. As such I am considering adding a bracket of some sort on the top of the two handle bars above the housing to add stiffness to the construction. Does anyone know of a bracket for this nauticam setup (the housing and arms are nauticam) that would do the trick? Would I need to make one myself? As a secondary question, on land, gravity makes the setup heavy, especially with the strobes apart as in the image. On land this requires the clamps to be tightened quite a bit, to the point that it becomes very hard to adjust the position of the arms. Would this be resolved if I attached the floating arms to the strobes (i.e. swap the arms) making the strobes more floating? Is there another way? (I was told that the dome on this camera makes the housing quite buoyant, which implies that floating arms close to the body is not required, but floating arms close to the strobes may be appreciated...). Any advice will be appreciated! Thanks! K PS the stability problem is very similar to the topic described in the following link, except that the solution cannot be implemented wih hthis housing as it only has one ball mount on the housing, not 2 http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42507
  7. Hey guys, Finally got my nauticam housing in this week. The port I got for it is the nauticam 6" for the panny 7-14. I don't have the lens yet though and when I tried everything out, I found the 14-42 kit zoom fits perfectly in the port without clipping etc. My question is now, to what extend does it matter that the port is not a prefect match? Why would I get another dome port when the current one can host the 14-42 kit lens with plenty space for diopter filters and other filters is desired? My second question concerns the user of magic filters and potentially combining them with flash. So I haven't used these filters before and as colour correction filters they look very different from standard red or orange filters. How well do they work and what's the drawback of using them with Flash? (Note, I did read their web page)
  8. Hi guys, Early october I'll be around Cebu for holiday. I plan to dive at Mactan and Panglao, reason for those is because they also have non-dive things to do (I am travelling with a non-diver. I tried to convince her but so far no budging...). Bohol has some nice excursions to the chocolate hills I believe, so that's something that will be done. Other than that, I hope to dive as much as posisble. I arrive late in the evening, so that day no diving, and probably also no travel to Panglao (too late for ferries), so I'm considering maybe staying a few days in Mactan, then a few days in Panglao, and the last day before my flicht (which is early morning) take a boat back to Mactan for somenon-dive activities and getting rid of N2 gas... Does anyone have any resort/operator recommendations for either location? Mactan seems to be owned by Japanese and Koreans as I could only find japanese and korean websites. For Panglao I heard something about seaquest (their website is down), and Fun Divers. Any suggestions or experiences (good or bad) are welcome!
  9. Just my 2p: I'm a mere beginner so can't really compare one against another type. However, I got Scubapro seawing Novas in white. They are pretty awesome. Easy to put on, robust, and easy to swim with. I took the white version because it makes white balancing underwater much easier than when using a slate (Am I a nerd or what....?!?). I also like it that people can see me well under water. Not that I 'Like to be seen", but for keeping an eye on your buddy kind of practises I think this has its merrits...
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