
divingbiker
Member-
Content Count
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Joined
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Last visited
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0 NeutralAbout divingbiker
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Rank
Sea Nettle
Contact Methods
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Website URL
http://
Profile Information
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Location
Leeds - U.K
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Interests
Diving & Biking - hence username.
Additional Info
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Camera Model & Brand
Olympus C-5050
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Camera Housing
PT-015
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Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
YS-90DX and YS-30 Y-sync
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Accessories
Sea&Sea Multistay
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O.K - take that as a no then Will let you all know how i get on - I am favouring the Ike with twin DS-125's but need to rob a bank first Thanks......
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Hi - looking for help..... Oly E-500, I know there are only three housings for this, has anybody used one of the set-ups? Which one and which strobes I used to use a C5050 with Oly housing and YS-90 + YS-30 through Weikamp converter and it worked very well, bought the E-500 'cos I luv Olympus.. ..but in retrospect for underwater probobly wasn't the smartest move..... So any help and advice on how best to set up the E-500, for underwater use, wouls be appreciated. Thanks
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forgive me if this topic has been covered before......I am looking for all possible housing/strobe combinations for the Olympus E-500. I cannot find out if Olympus intend to produce a housing or when it would be available. Thanks in advance for any help.............
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Strobe for Olympus C-5050 zoom
divingbiker replied to a1johnny's topic in Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique
Another option is Sea&Sea DX90 using optical trigger. I have this and it works great. You can go one step futher and purchase the fibre optic lead which helps prevent a false trigger from other cameras or light sources. No modification to your housing. -
Lights, strobes, and lighting technique
divingbiker replied to zulu00's topic in Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique
I agree with Alto. I have Sea&Sea strobes but had the same problem. The optically slaved strobe was fully discharging on the pre-flash and fooling the TTL into thinking that there was loads of light available. My slave strobe then did not recover fully or quickly enough for the second discharge. Because of the false TTL reading the hardwired strobe hardly discharges. My slave strobe did not have a pre-flash setting so I now use a Y-sync cable. Everything works fine now. I am not sure but I think Matthias or Mikedive does an additional gizmo that allows two strobes to be used rather than a y-cable. -
Hi sorry for the dealy in replying......Been in Egypt using my new set-up.....Absolutley stunning.... Anyway. I sent my housing to Mike Finger....he drilled it. Installed the bulkhead ( which he makes) and pressure tested the housing afterwards. He installs the bulkhead and tests free of charge. But you have the postage cost. The signal converter comes from Matthias Heinrich, Mike attaches it to his bulkhead. You simply slide a small PCB into the hotshoe of the camera, then close the housing as normal. Then connect your strobe with a standard Nikonos lead. The system is not at all glitchy or problematic. No issues for me when doing 25 dives in 6 days.....400 photos, some bad but that was me not the kit. Saw other people underwater with similar conversion work. Works in all camera modes, M A S P or even cheating modes..... This converter is normally applied to the PT-020 and C5060 system as described on this site by Craig Nelson. but Mike has now converted 20 or so PT-015 and C5050 systems in the same way. Contact me direct if you want: mark.glynn@eptagroup.it. I can send you a picture of my conversion if it helps.
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Just a quick reply - just done this although my strobes are Sea&sea. Get in touch with Mike Finger (www.mike-dive.de). He knows all about this stuff, He is in Germany but speaks really good english and is extemely patient while explaining the options. Thare is an IR system available from Matthias Heinrich which will also work - but is not a s reliable as a hard wired system. I converted my housing to take a Nikonos bulkhead fitting. A circuit board inside sits in your hotshoe and converts the Oly signal into a Nikonos signal. Works full TTL/Manual settings, whatever you want. With optical you can get false triggering from somebody elses flash.
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Just a quick post to thank everybody for their help and advice. I now understand how Duo strobes will work both with my MMII, which I still adore, and via an OLY-TTL-IR Matthais Heinrich adaptor with my C5050 and Oly housing. Now for the painful part - flashing the credit card - I am looking to buy a ys-90 duo and nikonos lead. I do not think that I can afford the dx although this appears to be best suited to the digital camera. once again thanks for your help - especially Craig @ Aquaimaging
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Getting confused. The Sea&Sea Duo strobe is supposed to work with Nikonos and Sea&Sea. But the pin pattern on my strobe matches neither. The pin pattern is 5 pins in an arc (not a full circle like Nikonos). Does the y-lead take care of the pattern change from Nikonos to duo strobe, or alternatively Sea&Sea (4-pin) to duo strobe? Or have I got the most messed up understanding of these systems. How much do these leads cost? Best place to buy them? and last but not least what are the main advantages to using them rather than let the wireless YS-90 work things out for itself?
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Hi, I'm new to the forum........getting into digital photography, previously used film. As a result I'm looking to invade your minds. I have a C-5050 with PT-015 OEM housing. I also have Sea&Sea ys60 and ys30duo. Would like to make these work together but I'm finding advice confusing. The ys 60 has a 4-pin sea&sea connector and the ys30 a 5-pin (Nikonos) connector. The housing has no attachment for strobes. Has anybody successfully connected Sea&Sea strobes to a PT-015? Or is it better to forget what I have and purchase again. Any advice or pointers would be really appreciated.......thanx