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About miguelpereira

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  1. It seems you have the strobes configured for preflashes. They only fire on the second flash.
  2. Hi. I may be interested if you wish to ship it outside US. Best regards, Miguel Pereira
  3. Not sure if you are talking about a port extension or an extension tube. I've used several times the Nikon 105 VR with a Kenko 1.4 TC. With this combination you loose a stop of light wide open and AF becomes slower but usable. You cannot use the manual focus gear for the Nikon 105 VR with the teleconverter (not sure if there is an option for that lens + converter). Anyhow I was able to use that combination with Nauticam SMC using AF (with some headaches at the end of the dives though :-) The port extension for the Kenko 1.4 TC is 20mm (not sure if it's the same with nikon's 1.4 TC).
  4. Hi, I've read that the new Retra strobes will be HSS compatible. Is this true? Will it be possible to use high speed sync with the new strobes with existing Led Triggers? Will they be able to sync until 1/8000 like with HSS land flashes? I do not need 1/8000 but being able to use shutter speeds like 1/400 to 1/640 with slight strobe power loss will be amazing, and makes these strobes (even more) highly desirable.
  5. Nikon D800 to D850. Better AF. Sharper images because of the lack of AA filter and increased resolution. Smaller performance gains such as a bigger buffer.
  6. So I've made a few more tests at home and I'm even more confused. The Sea&Sea YS-D1's really top out at 1/200. I've also tried my old 3mm optic fiber cables (they are just transparent optic fiber cable with one nauticam conector at one end and a sea&sea conector at the other end) with the subtronics pro160 and they only work until 1/60. At 1/80 and above the strobes have no effect whatsoever! I've also troed to configure the subtronics to ignore preflashes but it only makes the strobes to fire once in every two or three shots (depending if I set to one or two preflashes). I ran out of ideas..
  7. Hi, I have been using my Subtronic PRO160 strobes (optic fiber) and Sea&Sea YS-D1 with a Nikon D800 successfully up to shutter speeds of 1/320 (always with optic fiber using a manual led trigger that I installed in a Nauticam Housing, with camera flash sync speed set to 1/320 auto-fp). I've upgraded my camera to a Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing with Nauticam's manual led trigger installed as default. Yesterday I've tried my Subtronic's PRO160 UW for the first and they only were able to successfully light each photo if I used shutter speeds below 1/60 (the camera configured slower speed to use with flash in A & P modes). I was shooting in manual mode as ever, flash sync speed set to 1/250*(auto fp) (also tried setting it to 1/250 but no luck). When I used shutter speeds above 1/60 the bottom of the photos became unevenly illuminated or even black (depending on aperture, ISO and strobe power). Strobes are configured to fire with only one pulse from the trigger (as I always use). Later, at home, I've tested the strobes again and oddly they function normally until 1/200 (but at 1/250 they show the black bar at the bottom of the picture). I also tried my Sea&Sea YS-D1 and they also work normally just until 1/200 (they could have had low batteries so I will repeat the tests, but the Subtronics had full battery in the beginning of the dive). Anyone has any idea why this strange behavior? Why did they only work until 1/60 underwater? What changes to make them able to work at 1/200 at the surface? Why do they not work at the surface at 1/250 at least? I've tried everything I could remember (Camera in Single shot mode, M mode, EFCS off or on, no shutter delay activated, several combinations of aperture and ISO...). The only thing that I've changed besides the new camera, housing and new led trigger is the fiber optic cables: i used to use a 3mm optic fiber cable custom made by me (which I didnĀ“t like because they were always failing) and now I use Nauticam standard cables (they didn't work at all with my other led trigger and the Subtronics, although they always worked with the Sea&Sea and also some INON's Z240 that I don't have anymore - all the way up to 1/320 with the D800). Any help would be appreciated: you never know when you will be busy fiddling with your camera UW and that great white will finally appear and gracefully swim by your side,, :-) Thanks, Miguel
  8. You can see my ad in this group. Selling D800 + Nauticam Housing + Sigma 15mm f2.8 fisheye lens for 2.500 EUR http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63310&do=findComment&comment=401919
  9. I configure my camera as you are saying (it's the only viable option for the NA-D850 housing), but for me it's far from ideal. I prefer to change ISO (and other settings that I don't use normally UW such as Exposure Compensation) in the default Nikon way: button + dial without releasing the button (lever + dial in the housing). Before I could change ISO in one single step: 1) press the ISO lever with my left thumb and adjust ISO with my right thumb simultaneously and now I have to: 1) press the ISO lever with my right thumb, 2) adjust the ISO in the rear command dial also with my right thumb 3) half press shutter to be able to change aperture or shutter speed (there are other ways but this is the fastest for me). If I just want to change ISO I can skip step 3, but I have always to do it in two steps at least. Anyway this takes me now some seconds more than before (3 seconds at least I would say) which lead sometimes to missed shots.. If only would be possible to assign ISO to the FN2 button, the ergonomics for ISO would be perfect (and the same of previous Nauticam housings), but I'm not holding my breath hoping for Nikon to change the firmware to allow this. One other way of analysing the ergonomics IMO would be this: In normal conditions, while taking a shot if I don't use zoom (I almost never do), my left hand normally only serves to hold the housing, while my right hand has to control aperture, shutter speed, ISO, changing autofocus points and press the shutter (and I don't normally use AF-ON or else it would be another control to use with my right hand). I understand this has much to do with Nikon and not Nauticam, but the camera ergonomics are excellent because you can do all these things very quickly with your right hand because of the buttons placement, but with the housing things are somewhat different. This is my third Nauticam Housing (before NA-D7000, NA-D800) and this is my first real problem with the housings ergonomics (well,sort of, I had before a Ikelite D90 housing and didn't like the ergonomics also). I always felt an improvement in ergonomics with each upgrade but not now. PS: sometimes I can be referring to a lever when it's a button or the other way around - in the camera it's all buttons and dials :-)
  10. If anyone is interested in individual parts I am willing to split the lot. I could even keep the D800 camera.
  11. Are you guys able to do it with you eyes on the viewfinder? I'm not.. And I find it difficult to access the ISO lever. I wish there is another workaround because it has significantly affected my way of shooting.
  12. I did that like I said, altough I prefer setting it to OFF (sometimes you want to change ISO and then Shutter Speed and you forget to press the shutter and you continue to change ISO instead) . But even with this setting ON I still have to go with my finger to the ISO button and then scroll the rear command dial with the same finger. And I find impossible to leave my finger near the ISO button and it's in a position that is not easily acessible. Like I said ISO is my most changed setting usually so I'm finding this solution very cumbersome. I wanted to use FN2 + rear command dial to control ISO, as I can do it on the fly, without taking my eyes from the viewfinder.
  13. Am I the only one who finds the ISO control in the Nikon D850 housing a major downgrade compared to previous housings? I understand why Nikon changed the MODE and ISO buttons because without the housing now is really easier to change your ISO while looking through the viewfinder, but underwater this is impossible for me. And even taking your eyes from the viewfinder it takes forever to change ISO, and I had to turn the option to just press buttons and then turn dials, because it's nearly impossible to press the ISO Button while scrolling with the rear command dial. ISO is "only" the setting I change the most so this is bothering me a lot. I tried to assign ISO to different buttons but it looks like this is not possible. The only workaround I did find is to assign ISO to the top item in My Menu and assigning this command to the FN2 button (which is the optimum placement of the ISO Button in the Nauticam housing, IMO), while choosing the option to scroll trough menus with the command dials, but using this method you have a final step to press OK or the center of the wheel selector to confirm ISO which is far from ideal. Anyone has problems with this or am I the only one? Did anyone found other solution for this problem? Miguel Pereira
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