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miguelpereira

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Everything posted by miguelpereira

  1. It seems you have the strobes configured for preflashes. They only fire on the second flash.
  2. Hi. I may be interested if you wish to ship it outside US. Best regards, Miguel Pereira
  3. Not sure if you are talking about a port extension or an extension tube. I've used several times the Nikon 105 VR with a Kenko 1.4 TC. With this combination you loose a stop of light wide open and AF becomes slower but usable. You cannot use the manual focus gear for the Nikon 105 VR with the teleconverter (not sure if there is an option for that lens + converter). Anyhow I was able to use that combination with Nauticam SMC using AF (with some headaches at the end of the dives though :-) The port extension for the Kenko 1.4 TC is 20mm (not sure if it's the same with nikon's 1.4 TC).
  4. Hi, I've read that the new Retra strobes will be HSS compatible. Is this true? Will it be possible to use high speed sync with the new strobes with existing Led Triggers? Will they be able to sync until 1/8000 like with HSS land flashes? I do not need 1/8000 but being able to use shutter speeds like 1/400 to 1/640 with slight strobe power loss will be amazing, and makes these strobes (even more) highly desirable.
  5. Nikon D800 to D850. Better AF. Sharper images because of the lack of AA filter and increased resolution. Smaller performance gains such as a bigger buffer.
  6. So I've made a few more tests at home and I'm even more confused. The Sea&Sea YS-D1's really top out at 1/200. I've also tried my old 3mm optic fiber cables (they are just transparent optic fiber cable with one nauticam conector at one end and a sea&sea conector at the other end) with the subtronics pro160 and they only work until 1/60. At 1/80 and above the strobes have no effect whatsoever! I've also troed to configure the subtronics to ignore preflashes but it only makes the strobes to fire once in every two or three shots (depending if I set to one or two preflashes). I ran out of ideas..
  7. Hi, I have been using my Subtronic PRO160 strobes (optic fiber) and Sea&Sea YS-D1 with a Nikon D800 successfully up to shutter speeds of 1/320 (always with optic fiber using a manual led trigger that I installed in a Nauticam Housing, with camera flash sync speed set to 1/320 auto-fp). I've upgraded my camera to a Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing with Nauticam's manual led trigger installed as default. Yesterday I've tried my Subtronic's PRO160 UW for the first and they only were able to successfully light each photo if I used shutter speeds below 1/60 (the camera configured slower speed to use with flash in A & P modes). I was shooting in manual mode as ever, flash sync speed set to 1/250*(auto fp) (also tried setting it to 1/250 but no luck). When I used shutter speeds above 1/60 the bottom of the photos became unevenly illuminated or even black (depending on aperture, ISO and strobe power). Strobes are configured to fire with only one pulse from the trigger (as I always use). Later, at home, I've tested the strobes again and oddly they function normally until 1/200 (but at 1/250 they show the black bar at the bottom of the picture). I also tried my Sea&Sea YS-D1 and they also work normally just until 1/200 (they could have had low batteries so I will repeat the tests, but the Subtronics had full battery in the beginning of the dive). Anyone has any idea why this strange behavior? Why did they only work until 1/60 underwater? What changes to make them able to work at 1/200 at the surface? Why do they not work at the surface at 1/250 at least? I've tried everything I could remember (Camera in Single shot mode, M mode, EFCS off or on, no shutter delay activated, several combinations of aperture and ISO...). The only thing that I've changed besides the new camera, housing and new led trigger is the fiber optic cables: i used to use a 3mm optic fiber cable custom made by me (which I didn´t like because they were always failing) and now I use Nauticam standard cables (they didn't work at all with my other led trigger and the Subtronics, although they always worked with the Sea&Sea and also some INON's Z240 that I don't have anymore - all the way up to 1/320 with the D800). Any help would be appreciated: you never know when you will be busy fiddling with your camera UW and that great white will finally appear and gracefully swim by your side,, :-) Thanks, Miguel
  8. You can see my ad in this group. Selling D800 + Nauticam Housing + Sigma 15mm f2.8 fisheye lens for 2.500 EUR http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63310&do=findComment&comment=401919
  9. I configure my camera as you are saying (it's the only viable option for the NA-D850 housing), but for me it's far from ideal. I prefer to change ISO (and other settings that I don't use normally UW such as Exposure Compensation) in the default Nikon way: button + dial without releasing the button (lever + dial in the housing). Before I could change ISO in one single step: 1) press the ISO lever with my left thumb and adjust ISO with my right thumb simultaneously and now I have to: 1) press the ISO lever with my right thumb, 2) adjust the ISO in the rear command dial also with my right thumb 3) half press shutter to be able to change aperture or shutter speed (there are other ways but this is the fastest for me). If I just want to change ISO I can skip step 3, but I have always to do it in two steps at least. Anyway this takes me now some seconds more than before (3 seconds at least I would say) which lead sometimes to missed shots.. If only would be possible to assign ISO to the FN2 button, the ergonomics for ISO would be perfect (and the same of previous Nauticam housings), but I'm not holding my breath hoping for Nikon to change the firmware to allow this. One other way of analysing the ergonomics IMO would be this: In normal conditions, while taking a shot if I don't use zoom (I almost never do), my left hand normally only serves to hold the housing, while my right hand has to control aperture, shutter speed, ISO, changing autofocus points and press the shutter (and I don't normally use AF-ON or else it would be another control to use with my right hand). I understand this has much to do with Nikon and not Nauticam, but the camera ergonomics are excellent because you can do all these things very quickly with your right hand because of the buttons placement, but with the housing things are somewhat different. This is my third Nauticam Housing (before NA-D7000, NA-D800) and this is my first real problem with the housings ergonomics (well,sort of, I had before a Ikelite D90 housing and didn't like the ergonomics also). I always felt an improvement in ergonomics with each upgrade but not now. PS: sometimes I can be referring to a lever when it's a button or the other way around - in the camera it's all buttons and dials :-)
  10. If anyone is interested in individual parts I am willing to split the lot. I could even keep the D800 camera.
  11. Are you guys able to do it with you eyes on the viewfinder? I'm not.. And I find it difficult to access the ISO lever. I wish there is another workaround because it has significantly affected my way of shooting.
  12. I did that like I said, altough I prefer setting it to OFF (sometimes you want to change ISO and then Shutter Speed and you forget to press the shutter and you continue to change ISO instead) . But even with this setting ON I still have to go with my finger to the ISO button and then scroll the rear command dial with the same finger. And I find impossible to leave my finger near the ISO button and it's in a position that is not easily acessible. Like I said ISO is my most changed setting usually so I'm finding this solution very cumbersome. I wanted to use FN2 + rear command dial to control ISO, as I can do it on the fly, without taking my eyes from the viewfinder.
  13. Am I the only one who finds the ISO control in the Nikon D850 housing a major downgrade compared to previous housings? I understand why Nikon changed the MODE and ISO buttons because without the housing now is really easier to change your ISO while looking through the viewfinder, but underwater this is impossible for me. And even taking your eyes from the viewfinder it takes forever to change ISO, and I had to turn the option to just press buttons and then turn dials, because it's nearly impossible to press the ISO Button while scrolling with the rear command dial. ISO is "only" the setting I change the most so this is bothering me a lot. I tried to assign ISO to different buttons but it looks like this is not possible. The only workaround I did find is to assign ISO to the top item in My Menu and assigning this command to the FN2 button (which is the optimum placement of the ISO Button in the Nauticam housing, IMO), while choosing the option to scroll trough menus with the command dials, but using this method you have a final step to press OK or the center of the wheel selector to confirm ISO which is far from ideal. Anyone has problems with this or am I the only one? Did anyone found other solution for this problem? Miguel Pereira
  14. I'm selling my beloved Nikon D800 and Nauticam Housing with a Sigma 15mm fisheye lens for 2.500 € plus shipping. The housing is fully functional and has been serviced by Nauticam Spain last April. The housing has signs of use (most remarkably the white lettering that has fallen off in some buttons) but has always served me well. I have installed a UW Technics Led trigger to work with fibre optic strobes without using the camera pop-up flash (this alone is a 300 € extra). The camera and lens are in very good state and they were mostly used inside the housing. This sigma lens is very sharp (I would say it's sharper than my Nikkor 8-15mm fisheye). I'm the first and only owner of everything I'm selling. I'm asking 2.500 € + shipping. The itens are located in Portugal so I would prefer selling within the EU. Please check the images below and feel free to ask me for pictures taken with this setup. Miguel Pereira
  15. The reason why it isn't hugely popular for UW is that it lacks a native, autofocus, fisheye lens. If I could only have one lens for my setup it would be a fisheye.. For travel, portraits, street photography and even landscapes the Fujis are wonderful cameras.
  16. @twinner. All that you say about the MWL-1 is not specific for mirrorless cameras, right? You could have the same results with a Nikon D850 for example or not? It would be nice to know the apertures used in the pictures and also if you feel that the lens is only mainly usable for cfwa or also for shooting bigger subjects at greater distances. Thanks
  17. Nauticam has announced their Z6/Z7 housing and acording to their data the housing has about the same size and weight than the D850 housing! If this is correct I can't see anyone using a Z6/Z7 underwater!
  18. Hello. The only way I found until to today to fire my Subtronic Pro160 strobes is with custom 5mm optic fiber cables that I built. I use a manual led strobe trigger with red light in a Nauticam NA-D800 housing. This solution is however very cumbersome and the cables are easily damaged and I've been loosing many shots due to strobes not firing. Does anyone know a better solution using normal coiled fiber optic cables? I have a pair of these cables from Nauticam and they work with this setup with Inon Z240 and Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes but not with my Subtronics. I guess they are a lot less sensitive than the other two.. Thanks. Miguel Pereira
  19. D800 AF is rated from -2EV to 19EV while Z7 is from -3EV to 19EV. It's better to wait for some reviews but the Z7 on paper seems better in low light AF. Regarding flash sync speed the Z7 allows auto fp mode in which you can use any shutter speed with flash so probably it will be possible to use 1/320 with UW strobes like in the D850. Probably there will be some penalty regarding strobe power in doing so (for 1/250 and 1/320 ss). As for battery real world reviews talk about 1200 shots per battery which is not a deal breaker. There's also continuous AF tracking which seems to be not as good as D850.
  20. I've tried once a 50mm in a 230mm and it was not good. Very poor performance (I didn't tried split shots but I think that would have been even worst). I've seen someone get good results from a 50mm lens but in a 500mm custom dome! I think your 6" dome won't be big enough I'm afraid.
  21. Housing manufacturers will surely make housings for these cameras (we are talking about the system that is going to replace dslr's in a not so far future). I believe that Sea&Sea are already taking pre-orders of their housings for the Z cameras. As for the space for the adapter that should be real easy as the distance between the mount and the grip should be enough for that, without any special modification to the housing therefore.
  22. I've several reviews saying that it does not have 3d focus. The Nikon website specs mention all focus zones and 3d focus isn't one of them. Lowering ISO requires more strobe power, raising shutter speed does not so you are always loosing something with a lower flash sync speed.
  23. I was sure that was going to upgrade to the Z7 before the announcement: the size difference for a D8xx camera is substantial so will be the housing, but after seeing the first impressions and specs I'm a bit turned down by the flash sync speed (why 1/200???) and apparently the focus performance (no more 3d mode! why?). The best I've heard the people that tried the camera saying about the autofocus was that it was Sony good (arghh :-) but nevertheless without eye detect! Another thing that bothers me is that they remove the AF/MF selector and focus mode/focus zones button. Probably you can get around this with programmable buttons, but I fear that with the touchscreen capabilities that latest cameras are having, underwater photographers will start to loose some control in their housings. The single XQD card doesn't bother me but this was a huge mistake from Nikon, keeping lot's of potential buyers from buying these cameras. I do think that DSLR's are a dying technology (I personally have some difficulties in spending so much money in technology that appears to be reaching the end of it's life cycle) but probably the D850 is still the best camera for UW photography. The mirrorless cameras have the huge size advantage (less weight, less drag while diving against current) and the ability to use the back lcd to take photos while holding the housing at arms length (DSLR's can do it but with unusable autofocus). I will wait to see more detailed reviews especially concerning autofocus performance (with and without the adapter) to choose - give me top performance to the 105 and 8-15 lenses and I'm good to go! (if it's good with these two surely it will with the 60mm and the 16-35 which I use way more sparsely).
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