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adamtaylor

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Posts posted by adamtaylor

  1. Posted

    Thanks for the reply. I had thought about the 12-50 but, again, reviews are so mixed good vs bad I don't know what to believe.

     

    Any thoughts on the 9-18 behind the 4" semi dome?

    Have never used it myself, but hear more bad reviews than good about the 9-18mm.

     

    Sometimes the 12-50mm combo and / or port are available used which helps the wallet. I see a lens / gear combo in the classifieds now.

     

    It definately doesnt have the quality of the higher end lenses, but for me the flexibility makes up for that... That being said when I have specific goals in mind I chose my 60mm or the 12-40 over the 12-50 jack of all trades.

     

    Seeing as you already have the 14-42 not sure the need for you to go that route. Thought it was worth throwing into the discussion.

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  2. Posted

    I have decided on the OMD E-M5 II and a Nauticam housing for my new camera setup. I need some advice on some lens and port setups if someone could give me some insight. This will be my first Nauticam housing and I have all of the lenses listed except the 14-42EZ – I have the 14-42 IIr right now.

     

    I currently shoot an E-PL1 behind a Zen Underwater WA-100 dome on an Olympus housing with the 3 lenses listed.

     

    Option 1:

    · Olympus 60mm Macro / N85 Port 65

    · Olympus 9-18mm Wide angle / N85 4 inch Acrylic Wide Angle Dome Port

    · Olympus 14-42EZ / N85 Power Zoom Macro Port 29 (option to add WWL-1 later)

     

    Option 2:

    · Olympus 60mm Macro / N85 Port 659-18mm

    · Olympus 14-42EZ / N85 Power Zoom Macro Port 29

    · WWL-1 Wet Wide lens (with all of the adapters and mounts)

     

    Option 3:

    · Olympus 60mm Macro / N85 Port 659-18mm

    · Olympus 12-40 PRO / Zen Underwater DP-170

     

    Option 1 concerns me because some reviews say the 9-18 behind the semi dome is trash, others say it’s good. So, who do I believe without spending big bucks to find out for myself? I would rather sell the lens and go a different route if the photos will not be good.

     

    I really like option 2 and the flexibility it offers but am very nervous about taking a 3 lb lens on and off underwater. One slip and $1000 worth of lens heads to the bottom well beyond even a tech divers reach for retrieval, at least on a lot of our dives. Plus, when it is not attached and on the holder on the arm, that 3 lbs must seriously torque the arm and make the rig unstable as hell.

     

    I am trying to keep a mix of versatility and cost effectiveness as much as I can.

     

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks.

    Depending on your budget and number of lenses you want to own / carry you may wish to consider the Olympus 12-50 in the Nauticam Macro port with gearing.

     

    The lens itself is inexpensive and flexible with its 43mm Macro Mode but the port and gear combo is expensive. Bonus is the port works with 60mm Macro lens as well.

     

    Perhaps someone else can compare the 14mm zoom lenses you mention to the 12-50mm?

     

    The 12-50 set up is my go-to lens for unknown sites / conditions, or all around flexibility. I generally get better results from the 60mm for macro or 12-40mm in the 180mm dome, but the 12-50 offers flexibility especially when wet diopters ate added.

     

    Good luck with your research and choice

     

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  3. Posted

    I recently researched monitors for my GH 5. While the Ninja Inferno was my first thought by the time I factored in the cost of housing and mounting hardware I couldn't justify the price for what you gain over GH5 internal recoding.

     

    Perhaps I will revise this opinion in the future and upgrade to Inferno in Nauticam for the reasona you mention. But for now have opted for a Small HD monitor.

     

    Apparently the Nauticam housing for the Shogun also works for the Inferno

     

    https://www.backscatter.com/Nauticam-NA-Shogun-Atomos-Shogun-Underwater-Housing

     

    Regards,

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

    Oops, misread the which Ninja model was on that link. Please ignore

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  4. Posted

    As we know 4:2:2 is limited to 30p but with the new recorder from Atamos we can record 4:2:2 at 60p ProRes!

     

    The only problem is I can not find any housing for the recorder.

     

    My option is a Canon 1DX Mark II at 3 times the cost to get into camera and housing along with a difficult to use codec out of camera increases my work flow difficulties.

     

    Recorders should become much more popular as the storage options for video footage are limited. If you count how many 128gb SD cards would be needed for long underwater footage a recorded becomes much less expensive and has so many extras that you get at a decent price.

     

    I'd like to find some manufacturer that is going to support the inferno. This thing has been out since March 2017 and we are bound to have many mire cameras coming down the pike at 4k 60p this year, so there is going to be a demand for these housings. 8f6884de7e3e344f5e848ffffa28ee9f.jpgc912fbed218724206ac238f24c49aa12.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk

    I recently researched monitors for my GH 5. While the Ninja Inferno was my first thought by the time I factored in the cost of housing and mounting hardware I couldn't justify the price for what you gain over GH5 internal recoding.

     

    Perhaps I will revise this opinion in the future and upgrade to Inferno in Nauticam for the reasona you mention. But for now have opted for a Small HD monitor.

     

    Apparently the Nauticam housing for the Shogun also works for the Inferno

     

    https://www.backscatter.com/Nauticam-NA-Shogun-Atomos-Shogun-Underwater-Housing

     

    Regards,

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    So what's the conclusion? The dive and see 5 inch or the small HD 5 inch? Is the colors really not reliable as I read with the dive and see?

    And how much problems does the small HD mini hdmi cable give u underwater?

    I actually like the features of the small HD more but having usable cables is priority nr1

     

    Skickat från min VTR-L29 via Tapatalk

    As I will occasionally use the monitor topside I have opted for SmallHD 502 (so I can send up a surface feed in the future).

     

    Ordered the housing and just waiting to see if there are any Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals for the monitor.

     

    Will comment after I have tried it out.

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  6. Posted

    Thanks, Adam. That's helpful.

     

    @tassietraveller I use a Tokina 10-17 fisheye. Last year I was still only using a single strobe positioned above the camera. No TTL, just manual settings. I would take test shots while setting up to dial in the correct settings.

    A frw more thoughts.

     

    Positioning two legs to the front helps compensate for creep. But depending on how far forward you set your strobes you may need to strap a weight to the rear leg (or all legs if there is much current).

     

    Also, when available light is good, and only a single strobe required I have rotated the second strobe behind or beside the camera to act as a counterweight for the forward strobe, or to compensate for current pushing on the dome.

     

     

    Basically I found that by starting with a solid base, and adjusting components upwards from there minimized the fine-tuning required.

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  7. Posted

    Considering picking up a Gorillapod Focus tripod (legs only) to shoot brook trout with this fall. Last year I used an old RocketFish tripod, but the overall footprint was quite large. I'd like something smaller and less intrusive near the trout redds. I came across this Gorillapod model, but am unsure how well it might hold the weight of a DSLR housing. For reference, I'm using an Ikelite D7000. Anyone with experience use this with a DSLR?

    I have used a Gorillpod Focus with my Olympus EM5 in Nauitcam Housing.

     

    I would recommend the more robust Focus over the SLR model as it supports more weight.

     

    With the standard flat / macro port things worked well. But with 180mm glass dome and moving strobe / video lights up and forward the gorillapod would creep.

     

    Same issue with 180mm dome in streams with any noticeable current... you have to ensure to adjust it just right or the additional pressure causes some creep / settlement.

     

    This is particularly noticeable trying for over-under images if you position the strobe / video arms up in the air over the camera / water. The centre of gravity shifts and the gorillapod struggles to carry the load.

     

    Good luck

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  8. Posted

    5e1494b5474470e09087854f3610c1c7.jpg

     

    b4fef22c0aadc5247d2b1a4896fc7723.jpg

     

    91fb43c0ef1b7787d0c08716881ef20c.jpg

     

     

    Regards - Richard

    Thanks for the images,

     

    Kind of what I recall from the marketing materials, but it does seem to tuck in tight behind the camera. Must feel like a brick underwater without the floats ;-)

     

    Can you still access the top and front buttons / dials easily?

     

    Am thinking cost wise I will going for one of the other two...

     

    Regards,

     

     

    Adam

  9. Posted

     

    The image flip can be turned off and it's not intrusive. I haven't had it flip on me unless I was tipping the camera to the extreme. How you describe your use of the camera is exactly why I have it set this way. It's really easy to adjust in this orientation.

     

    I have the camera's built in screen turned off and I can get to the buttons and dials just fine. Attached are some bad iphone pics to give you an idea. I have the tilt adjust in several positions. It adjusts easily underwater. Positioned behind the camera it's less of a sail in current, but it still creates drag.

     

    Thanks for the images, really helps appreciate scale.

     

    Looks like an extra long clamp, and that the monitor can swing into a few different orientations easily.

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Adam

  10. Posted

    I should also add about the SmallHD 501 housing is if you have the vacuum ports on both the monitor and camera housings there is a slight complication. Basically if you open one, you'll have to vacuum both of them again as the pressure will be released through the hdmi cable. This is a bit of a pain. It takes just a couple minutes and you don't have to open the other housing, but it may require moving pieces around to reach the vacuum port. So, it's mainly an irritation.

    Thanks for the images.

     

    Really helps me get a feel for the set up. I note you have the flip adaptor on your 12-50 Macro port. Are you using the CMC 1 or CMC2?

     

    Do you think the system would balance the vacuum if only one housing had the vacuum valve?

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  11. Posted

    Thanks Nick,

     

    Seeing the size in relation to a similar housing is great. I am considering the smaller 5" version, so seeing that the 7" model is not enourmous is a relief.

     

    The images and video I have seen of the Atomos Shogun looked rather unwieldy.

     

    Hopefully someone has tried both Small HD and Dive amd See products and can comment.

     

    My eyes are still good, but its tough to see focus peaking on the tiny GH5 screen, especially from am angle.

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

    Another thought / question for the forum.

     

    Has anyone either sent a signal to the surface, or mounted the monitor further from the camera?

     

    Am thinking about filming spawing salmon and it would be nice to set camera on tripod and control from streamside instead of in the water... Mind you even having a monitor on top will save getting a kinked neck in shallow streams.

     

    Thanks for all the useful input so far

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  12. Posted

     

    I can attest to the fact that the Atomos housings for their 7" monitors make a relatively small rig rather large and yes very unwieldy - BUT stable.

     

    The other issue, is as much as I love the Nauticam housings - they are negative as my weight belt, and its not just the size of the housing thats the issue, its the number (and size) of the float arms you need to get the thing neutrally buoyant. Can post photos of my neutrally buoyant rig later, its cost me a lot in buying arms and getting the right mix.

     

    I don't regret getting the Flame housing, but the days I take just the camera for some some ambient light shots - I really appreciate the size.

     

    The only benefits you will get with running the Atomos is the potential to get 4K 10bit 422 60fps and increased AF speed, but on the other hand, it can't handle the new 6K modes (once you hit record there is no HDMI output) and the cost of SSDs for 4K 60p is something to consider, for the marginal gains.

     

    But boy is that screen a joy to use underwater....

    Would be interested in seeing images, but am thinking the higher cost for the Atomos housing could be used for a new lens instead

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  13. Posted

    Hey Adam,

     

    I have the SmallHD501 with the Nauticam housing. Like you I was considering the ninja inferno as the screen costs the same as the SmallHD. However, the housing for the ninja is way more expensive. I also looked at the Diveandsee monitors but didn't like that it was always in the housing as I'd like to use it on land too sometimes. So, I opted for the SmallHD501 and Nauticam housing.

     

    The housing does seem to be much bigger than it needs to be for the size of the smallHD screen. It is slightly positive in buoyancy. This is helpful so as not to require floats. There are 5 main buttons that are easy to use with dry gloves on and two buttons on the top. The smallHD is really easy to operate and I've made adjustments to it during dives with no problems.

     

    One feature I like a lot is that the smallHD screen will flip its orientation just like a mobile phone does. It also flips the operation of the buttons so you don't have to think about them operating differently when upside down. Previously I had the monitor mounted above the camera, but since the screen flips, I have the monitor mounted behind the camera. This make it easier to see the subject and position the camera correctly.

     

    I can get about three dives using 2 batteries in the monitor. However, having the monitor connected to the hdmi port on the GH5 prevents the camera from going to sleep. So, I can only get about 1.75 dives out of the camera battery. So, I usually swap the camera battery after every dive. (I usually do a least an hour on each dive).

     

    I mainly use focus assist, exposure peaking and histogram features of the smallHD.

     

    It's late now, but I'll post some pictures of the setup tomorrow.

    Thanks for the input.

     

    Is the screen orientation change you mention highly sensitive? Can it be turned off?

     

    I am hoping to have a top mounted screen I can clearly view from above. Basically for wide angle on the glass sponge reefs I want to be able to hold the camera below me to get a sideways / slightly upwards shot as I swim the edge of the reef. Between the silty bottom or live sponge cover I need to keep my fins up in the water column

     

     

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  14. Posted

    I looked at the smallhd/Nauticam housing setup at a dealer and found it pretty clumsy, which helped straighten my mind :)

    Good to know...

     

    No local dealers where I can try hands-on so this type of input is appreciated.

     

    My dry gloves are not super thick, but later in winter / early spring when there is a lot of snowmelt will be doubling up my wool gloves underneath

     

    Thanks again

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  15. Posted

    Hi Adam,

     

    as you already researched, options are limited. In the end I decided for a DiveandSee 5.5inch Monitor, called DNC-5A. Its the replacement for the 5inch which is not being manufactured anymore.

     

    It's a fullHD Monitor (ie same resolution as the 7inch) but a little bit more compact. Still weights 1.3kg compared to just 1kg for the previous 5inch version. I like the screen quality of the DNC and certainly compared to the SmallHD Focus which I use overland it compares quite well. (To be fair the Focus is only 1280 and not FullHD). I like that its ready to dive. No housing to maintain, no O-rings to worry - and it saves weight. Charging is easly done thru the plug on the backside. And as Nick says battery lasts easily for a day.

     

    The one thing I underestimated is the the drag this creates in truly heavy current. In Fiji I took it off after a couple of dives because it was getting too tough. Later put it back on when conditions eased up.

     

    The buttons on top of the monitor are quite narrow and and the click-and-turn button for menu navigation is miniscule. So, not sure how well this would work with big dry gloves. But then again I don't really fiddle much with those buttons underwater anyway. I've Peaking always turned on and if really required press F2 to get the Scopes I've put on there.

     

    Anyway, couple of pics attached with WA-setup using the Nauticam 180 Dome, sans lights.

    Many thanks bubffm for the comments and especially the pics.

     

    As the specs appear similar my choice may be down to the simple question of do I want / need a monitor for anove water use?

     

    If you didn't already have the othe SmallHD topside monitor would you have gone for the newer SmallHD + housing?

     

    This discussion is really helping me narrow down my decision.

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  16. Posted

    I use the Dive and See DNC-7A with my GH4.

     

    It's been very reliable for me, and a battery charge easily lasts all day.

     

    The colour rendition was never great, but it's time I checked all the settings; I'm scared of all those buttons along the bottom so I haven't touched any of them for over 2 years :D

     

    I don't use the shade anymore because it tends to obscure the red record symbol at the top of the screen. I don't miss it.

     

    NA-GH4-macro-rig-Nick-Hope.jpg

     

    I have it mounted with a ball clamp like in this photo.

     

    DNC-7A-and-NA-GH4.jpg

    Thanks Nick,

     

    Seeing the size in relation to a similar housing is great. I am considering the smaller 5" version, so seeing that the 7" model is not enourmous is a relief.

     

    The images and video I have seen of the Atomos Shogun looked rather unwieldy.

     

    Hopefully someone has tried both Small HD and Dive amd See products and can comment.

     

    My eyes are still good, but its tough to see focus peaking on the tiny GH5 screen, especially from am angle.

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  17. Posted

    Hi all,

     

    Am new to shooting video and am loving my GH5 in Nauticam housing.

     

    My biggest complaint is the position of the viewfinder...

     

    For most macro shots I cannot see the screen without being on my belly disturbing the bottom. For some wide angle where I am swimming it would be nice to look down on the screen so I can better frame sideways / upwards shots.

     

    I am doing alot of conservation work on glass sponge reefs and the last thing I want to do is damage the delicate sponges trying to capture images of the reef and fish life from their level.

     

    Have done some basic research and need some input / advice.

     

    1) As amazing as the Atomos Ninja Inferno in a Nauticam sounds the price is double other options. With the GH5's available internal recording formats it would take serious convincing before giving this option more thought.

     

    2) Small HD in Nauticam housing

     

    3) Dive and See 5" monitor

     

    Anyone used either the Small HD or Dive and See?

     

    Am looking for input on which model people recommend and why? How have you mounted yours, how easy is it to use wearing gloves etc.

     

    External feed to surface isn't necesary but would be nice to have / add in future.

     

    Any comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks,

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  18. Posted

     

    Thanks Adam. I'm still learning. Way more complicated than the Sony and awkward underwater! But the image quality is really good as you know! I'm looking forward to being more capable with the modern tech. I've been doing a lot of practice dives in the puget sound and will eventually post something now that Komodo is out the door ;^)

     

    I've decided AWB works just fine with my solas and now only custom white balance for ambient light. Previously I was using auto ISO but ended up with too much grain. So I keep that at 800-1200. The fewer things to twiddle underwater the better!

     

    How are you liking the GH5?

    Love my GH5

     

    Agree about the grain on Auto ISO. Our dark waters can push ISO too high.

     

    Still learning to edit but enjoying the process and the camera.

     

    Eill need to try Auto WB a bit as I usually use Manual. I Have found that when I manual WB while shooting wide angle with lights things can be a bit off.

     

    Probably asking too much of the camera but if for example I WB on a white plumose anemone 10 feet away (still getting a little bit of articificial light) and then later pan past another, closer white plumose in the foreground it can be purpleish...

     

    That being said decent screenshots can be pulled, and overall performance is night and day compared to my old Olympus EM5

     

    Regards,

     

     

    Adam

     

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

    • Like 2

  19. Posted

    Back in July I took a trip to Komodo with a virtually brand new GH5 Nauticam setup. I shot either the 7-14 Olympus pro fisheye for wide angle and the Olympus 12-50 for everything else. I recorded 4k60p 8bit and output at 1080p. I like the flexibility of being able to punch into the 4k footage. Although my 10 year old Mac Pro was feeling the pain of the large files. I relied heavily on proxy media when cutting.

     

    I just recently switched to this camera from a Sony CX550 camcorder. So, the techniques and all the buttons were really new to me. I used 2 sola 3000s for lighting and a sola 500 for spot.

     

    On each dive I'd manually white balance for ambient and the solas with a grey card. This worked pretty well and I like I could store the values. Although, I'd sometimes forget which white balance setting I had selected--ambient or solas.

     

    Generally I'm pleased with the results, but learned a lot through making mistakes!

     

    I edited in FCPX. Comments and critiques are very welcome. Oh, and I used a Phantom 4 for the drone footage.

     

    Very nice

     

    I see you have made a gkod transition to the new camera

     

    How are you enjoying it in local waters?

     

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    Reading this thread encouraged me to try editing a 1080 video from 4K footage.

     

    This was a learn as I go experiment, so I cannot really comment on how things SHOULD be done, simply what I did.

     

    Imported the 4K footage into a 1080p timeline in Premiere Pro. I really enjoyed the flexibility of having x2 the area to work with for framing, crop, zoom and motion. Will definitely change the way I frame some shots in the future if I want to do more of this.

     

    Another thing I noticed is a need for an external monitor. The tiny viewfinder was hard to confirm focus in macro, especially with the housing on a tripod tight to the bottom. The Nauticam CMC2 was also great, but the focal plane is VERY narrow.

     

    Gear was Panasonic GH5, Olypmus 12-50mm lens in Nauticam Housing + Nauticam CMC2. Lights are Archon W41VP

     

    Any comments & suggestions appreciated

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Adam

     

    https://youtu.be/5Yx-EOces8g

    • Like 2

  21. Posted

    Hi Adam,

     

    Is the Oly 12 - 40 parfocal on your GH5? Olympus tell me that both the 12-40 and the 7-14 are parfocal but there seems to be some doubt about this. Thanks, Tim

    I am by no means familiar with good vs bad performance as a parfocal lens.

     

    I do not zoom with my 12-40 lens while shooting so cannot comment on that.

     

    But I have changed aperture to lighten or darken the image due to camera orientation relative to available light. Subjects seemed to remain in focus when kept within the general focal plane.

     

    Keep in mind this was experimenting with with transitioning to an upwards angle near the surface, or in extremely dark environments at high ISO so I was not expecting perfect results.

     

    Maybe someone else can provide a more definitive answer?

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  22. Posted

    Hey, as the title states I'm looking into either making (I haven't found any ready made snoots for my archon w42r's) or get a spot light for those macro night dives where you want the black background. It would seem like a spot light would be easier to handle and also simpler to get going with, but the results are what matters.

     

    Any input is appreciated. Cheers

    Following as I am considering the same.

     

    I will try with my Archon on spot light only to start, and possibly drop by a local hardware / plumbing store to see if any standard pipe reducers would fit.

     

    A low tech, and cheap experiment which I did for my YSD1 strobe. Getting a snug fit so it does not wobble will be the biggest challenge. Surgical tubing as a gasket was my first solution.

     

    Will post pics if I cobble something together.

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

    Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

  23. Posted

    Still testing the camera, no footage to share, just experience. Tried the 60mm with the cmc-1. I don't have the focus gear so I was relying on auto focus--which I'm not all that happy with. Part of it is because I'm learning the general focus distance of the lens and the cmc. But, in general the auto focus hunts a lot. Even when using the back button focus lock.

     

    I also tried the camera in AFC in tracking mode. Didn't really work. Right now my preference lies with the 12-50mm lens for flexibility. But, I'll give the 60mm more tries.

     

    I still find myself hitting buttons and dials I don't want to with dry gloves on. I'm going to try a thinner liner and glove on my right hand to see if that helps.

     

    I have decided setting the ISO to auto is probably the way I'm going to go. One less thing to adjust.

     

    Hope you're getting along fine with the new setup. Please chime in a share any discoveries or more efficient setups.

     

    Oh, I did place an order for the smallHD501 and na-502 housing. I expect to put those into action this weekend on next week.

    Agree with what you say about the 60mm. It is a great lens, but has a fairly steep learning curve as it is much more powerful than the 12-50mm set to 43mm Macro. To limit focus hunting I set the focal range on lens to 0mm to 19mm.

     

    I have the focus gear so especially when focus peaking (and optical zoom) is active it's easy to achieve focus at the START of the shot.... Confirming focus on a small moving subject during the shot is more difficult as the focus peaking dissapears.

     

    Cannot wait for my flash so I can try focus peaking with still photography.

     

    For the 60mm I find that if you have a subject surrounded by other things it can confuse autofocus. Try pre-focusing on something at a similar distance and it helps get autofocus in the ball-park.

     

     

    Have only got the camera back in the water one more time. A dusk dive with 12-40 lens. Works with the tripod but I suspect it will not be super stable in current due to the size of the dome.

     

    Lots of particulate in water so tried the spot feature on my lights to minimize backscatter. Interesting effect and will definately experiment more.

     

    Video has always been an after thought for me, so still getting used to keeping the subject firmly in the focal range.

     

    Will try to post some more sample footage.

     

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

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  24. Posted

    I did a test dive in the south San Juan Islands yesterday and here are some uncorrected video clips. I shot in manual at 1080/60p and custom white balanced against 2 solo 3000 lights. Use the Olympus PRO fisheye lens and the conditions were good enough viz wise to work with wide angle--which I'll confess isn't my strong point. Setting details are in the video. I was mainly trying to work with wide angle closeups. I ended up with a fair amount of footage out of focus. In manual mode I'd half press the shutter button to lock focus and then start recording. For the next fisheye tests, I'm going to just leave the aperture wide open and see how focus to infinity works.

     

    Comments and critiques are welcome. My macro port arrives tomorrow and I'll do some tests with it this week as I have better competency with macro.

     

    Nice, how do you like the Olympus fisheye? Is it challenging to light such a wide field of view without burning the edges?

     

     

    I've been wanting something wider than my Olympus 12-40mm f2.8 PRO and still on fence between the Oly fisheye and Oly 7-14mm so would live to hear pros and cons.

     

    Tried macro with my GH5 today for first time using spare 10" & 12" arms on the tripod ball joints. The 60mm macro is a bit challenging and the CMC-2 would be best left until I dial in macro on its own.

     

    Conditions were challenging to say the least. River silt, plankton and a couple curious seals kicking up the silty bottom....

     

    Would prefer to experiment on settings using the 12-50mm as it isn't quite as tight as the 60mm. Still waiting for the replacement gear set from Nauticam which works with GH5.

     

    Regards

     

     

    Adam

     

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  25. Posted

    My housing arrived today so I'll take it for a dive tomorrow. Although, I only have the fish eye port. Macro port comes in next week. And, the viz reports are about 3-5 feet. So, it will be a chunky mess, but good for developing muscle memory where the controls are located.

    Good luck and have fun with it

     

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