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About jbrookfi

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  • Camera Model & Brand
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Subtronic,Sea&Sea,Subal SN800
  1. Nikon Switzerland are quoting 1398 SFR as the "suggested" price. In comparison the "old" 105 macro is 1628 SFR. These prices include 7.6% sales tax so 1398 equate to about 990 USD (without tax). However Swiss prices are horribly inflated when compared to BH Photovideo. The markup is becoming less over time but 15-20% is still normal. Jeremy Brookfield
  2. The ancouncement says that the TC14E,TC17E & TC20E are supported but not with autofocus. Can anyone hazard a guess as to why this might be ? Jeremy Brookfield
  3. One possible disadvantage of the Seacam and Subtronic strobes having non-removable batteries is the risk that a airline may refuse to carry them. The problem was highlighted in a recent article in the German magazine "Unterwasser". IATA rules state that a diving light (doesn't mention strobes directly) must have the energy source and the "heat producing element" disconnected. Then it may be carried in hand luggage. Subtronic have a downloadable PDF on their web site that is a reprint of an LBA (German Civil Airlines Authority) that gives an exemption to the Subtonic strobes if they are fitted with a means of blocking the switches from turning on. Subtonic and Seacam supply a plate designed to do this. However this PDF is in German and doesn't look very "official". The Unterwasser article suggests that in any case an airline can refuse to carry the strobes. I remove the halogen pilot lights from my Seacam 150 TTLs and am prepared to argue that the remaining flash tube is not a "heat producing element". With my Subtonic mini, I would have to argue that the LED pilot is also not a "heat producing element". One day this is not going to work and I have to accept that the next strobes I buy must have removable batteries. Jeremy Brookfield
  4. Harald of Seacam told me that it's possible to remove the pins from the hot shoe connector. The pins can be re-inserted simply by pushing them in. I now use this technique to swap from TTL to non-TTL setups. Jeremy Brookfield D2X & D1X in Seacam F5 in Aquatica
  5. Hi Mathieu It would be great to see some photos (ideally of the same subject) taken with and without the diopter. How easy do yout think it would be to attach the diopter to the Seacam port whilst u/w ? Jeremy
  6. I have a DK17M and it now lives on my D2X (excepting when it's in the Seacam housing as there is neither room nor need). You can view the entire image (corners are a bit dark) but do need to look right or down to read the info displays. Highly recommended for above water photography. Jeremy Brookfield
  7. Many thanks for the tip. The existance of a diode in the Seacam custom cable would explain why the cable only works in one direction and why I saw no connectivity on the trigger wire. Isolating the ready wire did permit the Subtronic mini to work without hindering TTL on the SB800 side. Jeremy Brookfield
  8. What wiring is correct for the D2X is continous source of puzzlement to me. I wanted to be able to use the D2X with a housed SB800 (in iTTL mode) and a manual strobe (as a "fill" flash"). Seacam made me up a "two pin" cable to connect the second strobe. I had expected that the ground and trigger wires be present but Seacam went one step better to provide a functioning ready light. When I test the connectivity then the ground wire is present as is the ready wire. The trigger, SP and quench pins do not connect. Further the cable only works one way round - I have to connect the correct end to the strobe and the other to the housing. If I connect the wrong way round then the stobe is not fired. I cannot begin to understand this but it works in the following combinations D2X + SB800 + Seacam 150 (equivalent to Subtronic Alpha) D1X + SB800 + Seacam 150 D1X + SB800 + Subtronic mini digital In each case the SB800 is working in iTTL mode and the second strobe is filling in based on the power settings. Just what I want for macro. but the combination I really wanted D2X + SB800 + Subtronic mini digital does not work. The flash indicator on the D2X blinks and I cannot take an image. If anyone could explain the above then I would dearly like to hear from them. Otherwise the Seacam D2X works perfectly and is a beautiful piece of engineering. Jeremy Brookfield
  9. Hi Kasey, Have you had a chance to try your 10.5mm with the Seacam D2x yet? If so, what port(s) are you using? Jeremy Brookfield Seacam D2X&D1X, 12-24mm, 60mm.105m,2x Seacam 150 TTL-
  10. I have also seen the problem in which not all iamges are written but with my setup this happens whether or not I connect the stobes through the bulkhead connnectors or directly. On further investigation I discovered that if - I take a burst of images then all but the first are written - The first image after powering on the strobe (YS300 or YS120) is always written - If I wait more than 30 seconds between firing then the second image is not written. - If I disconnect all but two wires (leaving trigger and ground) then my strobe works consistently and all images all written -A stobe (Subtronic Alpha) that works with the D1X and D7O with the ready pin connected fails to work at all with the D2X unless I remove the ready wire. Because I want to sometimes use an SB800 in a housing in iTTL mode with a manual strobe as a fill and sometimes 2 strobes in manual, I have ordered cords with just two wires. I can therefore leave the hot shoe and wiring in the housing with all 5 wires and by changing the cords I can support the configurations I like. Jeremy Brookfield
  11. how may of the 5 wires are used to connect the 105 to the D100? If the SP wire is present then you might have problems. I don't have a D100 but on the D1,D1X,D70 and D2X (I seem to collect Nikon cameras......) one must use a true speedlight if the SP wire is connected. What I do is to kill the SP wire on the D1. On the D1X and the D70, I must also cut the ready wire and on the D2X I must also cut the quench wire unless I have a SB28DX,SB800 or something that is specifically supported. Depending upon the camera/strobe combo either the strobe will not fire at all, the strobe will fire but no image will be recorded or (confusingly) an image will be recorded on the second and subsequent firings. Jeremy Brookfield
  12. I haven't tested this but I assume not. If the camera is set for rear then the strobes work in manual mode and I think this will be triggered with the front curtain. What would be the advantage of rear curtain underwater? It's not something I ever dreamed of doing although I do use it topside. Jeremy Brookfield
  13. Yes, the circuit board fits in the housing and is connected between the camera hotshoe and the cables leading to the bulkhead connectors. To use the D70 iTTL converter in manual mode 1) set the camera to Manual exposure mode 2) set the flash to rear curtain 3) then dial in a flash exposure compensation in camera (pre-supposes that your housing allows this). I can't remember the precise scale but a -3 compensation is equivalent to 1/64th power (or something like that - I'd have to read the book again) and so on. If the controls on the housing are convieniently placed then this beats having to adjust the knobs on the strobes themselves and allows for a finer control of output. If the flash is set to front curtain then the device runs in iTTL mode. Jeremy Brookfield
  14. I've tested the Heinrich iTTL adapter with both the D70 and the D2X. The device was advertised as supporting the D70 and does indeed work. I tested with two strobes (YS120s) in iTTL mode and this worked. I however was most impressed with their manual mode support (put the camera into manual mode, flash setting to rear curtain and adjust the output using the flash compensation). This is ingenious and would be my prefered mode of working. As for the D2X, it didn't work in either mode (not much of a surprise). If they ever made a version that did work with the D2X then I would certainly get one. Jeremy Brookfield
  15. One solution you might want to look at is http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net/blitz/index.htm They make a small circuit border that goes into a housing between the hotshoe of the D70 and the strobes. It gives TTL with a number of u/w strobes (requirement is that the strobes can fire a preflash and then a main flash quickly enough) I recently bought one of these circuits in the hope that it would work with my D2X. It worked well with the D70 but it looks as if the iTTL protocol of the D2X is different. As far as I know there is no way to have two SB800s working in iTTL mode behind a D2H,D70 or D2X without using CLS and CLS of course uses a series of pre-flashes. If anyone has any further suggestions then I'd love to hear of them.
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