g3cko

Forgot to circle back here - thanks for the feedback everyone! I was unaware that the port + glass would be an o-ring still - will have to do a deeper look at my old port

Anyone have one for sale by chance?

Does anyone know what is "normally" used to bond/seal the glass (dome or flat) to a port for DSLR housings? I've been wanting to adapt an old port to Subal type 4 - I'm sure jb weld works, but thought I'd ask

At $40k a body - Nikon will recoup their margins pretty quickly...

I did some digging on this too, and the best I came up with for a DIY hotshoe was repurposing a $12 Pixel TF-322. This is how I'm syncing a camera now - I've soldered a few wires to the Pixel and plug them into the Nauticam bulkhead wires inside the housing. The next best thing, as best I could tell, would be to 3d print and buy spring loaded pins. I'm pretty confident this would work great and cost FAR less than retail prices.

Awesome - thank you both!! I had a small hunch they looked similar, but had no idea if they actually were the same filter setup.

I get there are probably not too many people shooting the 13, but I wanted to ask - does anyone have the rear filter piece that they could measure the pitch/size of the threads? I'm betting I could 3D print a small insert for attaching gels/filters, but I don't see much threads to measure. It might even be that this filter is standard across other lenses? Like the 16mm fisheye?? Does anyone know on that? (Pic from another post off here as I'm missing that filter)

Regarding the DP-54B, does anyone know if this is what @Alex_Mustard refers to in this post ?

Sorry - I was referring to the shutter planes, not the button. If you look here - the light output starts before the shutter has opened at all. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/38968615?image=0

The "gotcha" that I learned, the camera body and "flash" (for Nikon at least, but I think Canon too) need to communicate in order to say HSS is possible. So yes, the flash itself is what performs the HSS pulse, but whatever you plug into your camera needs to pretend to be a HSS capatable device (fake your body out) in order to perform HSS. Saying it's _just_ the strobe is not very accurate IMO By perform HSS, I mean start the flash BEFORE the exposure starts. I've tested this with simple LED triggers and without faking your camera out, the flash is firing in non-HSS mode and you'll get black bands.

Not to speak for them, that may have changed through their development.... but what was communicated to me sounded like that was not possible due to the trigger not being bright enough.

@Tom_Kline From what I have heard from them, it's not possible to fire 2 strobes from one "E-Opto-converter" (if that is what you are referring to)

While this is "compatible" with a many strobes, you do still have to buy different adapters. Which strobe is this for?

I have the mounting module for the YS-D2, so if you happen to find a LSD with a different mount and want that, please let me know

I'm not sure I see the relevance? I'm aware you can use topside flash underwater (with a housing and electrical cable), but this thread is about the Retra flash, which mentions "HSS ready" for the Pro/Prime. Are you inferring the "pulses" in HSS are controlled by the camera body?