Jump to content

g3cko

Member
  • Content Count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by g3cko

  1. At $40k a body - Nikon will recoup their margins pretty quickly...
  2. I did some digging on this too, and the best I came up with for a DIY hotshoe was repurposing a $12 Pixel TF-322. This is how I'm syncing a camera now - I've soldered a few wires to the Pixel and plug them into the Nauticam bulkhead wires inside the housing. The next best thing, as best I could tell, would be to 3d print and buy spring loaded pins. I'm pretty confident this would work great and cost FAR less than retail prices.
  3. Awesome - thank you both!! I had a small hunch they looked similar, but had no idea if they actually were the same filter setup.
  4. I get there are probably not too many people shooting the 13, but I wanted to ask - does anyone have the rear filter piece that they could measure the pitch/size of the threads? I'm betting I could 3D print a small insert for attaching gels/filters, but I don't see much threads to measure. It might even be that this filter is standard across other lenses? Like the 16mm fisheye?? Does anyone know on that? (Pic from another post off here as I'm missing that filter)
  5. Regarding the DP-54B, does anyone know if this is what @Alex_Mustard refers to in this post ?
  6. Sorry - I was referring to the shutter planes, not the button. If you look here - the light output starts before the shutter has opened at all. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/38968615?image=0
  7. The "gotcha" that I learned, the camera body and "flash" (for Nikon at least, but I think Canon too) need to communicate in order to say HSS is possible. So yes, the flash itself is what performs the HSS pulse, but whatever you plug into your camera needs to pretend to be a HSS capatable device (fake your body out) in order to perform HSS. Saying it's _just_ the strobe is not very accurate IMO By perform HSS, I mean start the flash BEFORE the exposure starts. I've tested this with simple LED triggers and without faking your camera out, the flash is firing in non-HSS mode and you'll get black bands.
  8. Not to speak for them, that may have changed through their development.... but what was communicated to me sounded like that was not possible due to the trigger not being bright enough.
  9. @Tom_Kline From what I have heard from them, it's not possible to fire 2 strobes from one "E-Opto-converter" (if that is what you are referring to)
  10. While this is "compatible" with a many strobes, you do still have to buy different adapters. Which strobe is this for?
  11. I have the mounting module for the YS-D2, so if you happen to find a LSD with a different mount and want that, please let me know
  12. I'm not sure I see the relevance? I'm aware you can use topside flash underwater (with a housing and electrical cable), but this thread is about the Retra flash, which mentions "HSS ready" for the Pro/Prime. Are you inferring the "pulses" in HSS are controlled by the camera body?
  13. What is preventing optical trigger on a front curtain, with a preset pulse duration? If I recall, my D500 allows me to exceed my flash sync (Auto FP), and I just get black banding issues. If the flash was in a "HSS pulse" mode - shouldn't this get me work? I think Canon behaves differently, but as a Nikon shooter... *Edit* maybe the duration is still tied to the pin going low?
  14. I have a two of those now, I was hoping someone would have one they don't want. I know a lot of people shoot the LSD but I was hoping one or two didn't like it enough to sell me their mount haha.
  15. I imagine this is a long shot, but does anyone have the Retra flash LSD mount that they do not use? I think they were originally shipped with that as a free add on. I would be interested in that, or the reduction rings (not the protective ones, the larger version) or maybe other filters too . Thanks!
  16. I bought a old Subal housing kit to get a larger dome port for a trip last year, and now have some extra parts I have no need for. The Subal viewfinder, although a bit dirty, appears to be in great shape. And a type 3, manual focus port in very good shape too. I am not 100% sure the exact model of this one, but it is type 3 and free of any signs of use. Additionally, I have a used 67mm wet wide angle lens that would be great to get rid of. There is the smallest blemish in the coating on the glass, but I wasn't able to find any scratches or marks outside of that. Open to offers, let me know. Would like to clear out some of this so I can buy some new toys haha
  17. Ahh, the rear curtain thing is Cannon specific? Any idea how Nikon does things? I would need to make my own (or buy) the hot shoe adapter and also double check that my Subal has room to fit that, but it is something I've wanted for backup (or primary, and keep the electrical as backup)
  18. Very cool! You mention, it only works for 1st curtain? How does rear curtain change this? I would have assumed (I'm guessing incorrectly) that rear is just at the end of the exposure, and that as far as the flash is concerned, exactly the same as front.
  19. I can't say I've tried this yet (have my Kraken 5k loaned out right now so I can't test), but my initial thoughts are the strobe would very likely be a lot brighter. Hopefully I can get my 5k back and do a test for you (feel free to ping me in a few days).
  20. Hi Tom - thanks for your input. I guess I wasn't meaning just installing the bulkhead myself, but building bulkheads onto custom parts, and using the Nikonos/Sea&Sea style sync cable to provide the electrical connection to and from either my camera, strobe, or custom electronics. For example, if I wanted to try to make my own remote trigger, I would want to connect my strobe via a electrical sync cable, to a small, waterproof 'box' that I would install a traditional housing bulkhead, that can house some small electronics. But, if I wanted to go the other way though (do "something" based on the camera trying to trigger a strobe) then I would need the other side of the sync cable. That's where I was curious - if it was easy to find the male/female parts of these bulkheads/cables online for building stuff.
  21. Hey all, I like to tinker with stuff and wanted to ask - does anyone know how to get the components for the S&S/Nikonos style bulkheads? Is this completely proprietary? Or does it simply have another name? I know I could re-purpose a $100-140 bulkhead (or part out something used) but I wanted to ask if I could buy the components anywhere... Essentially, I want to run an electrical cable from my housing to a water proof "something else" that I can tinker with remote shutter/programmable selfie mode/strobe/etc. Thanks!
  22. Hi Irene, So sorry to hear about this - I've seen mention of this go rounds through my Facebook friends (I dive Monterey couple times a year). I have an 8" aquatica dome and 60mm AF-D lens that I'll probably never use again. The dome saw maybe a dive from myself (bought used, but in great shape) and the AF-D was serviced by Nikon after a trip, and then replaced with the newer 60mm AF-S - so that has been sitting there unused as well. If you want, I can get a price/images to you tonight. -Aaron
  23. I have similarly sized inon floats for one set of my arms arms; I recommend long clamps but overall, I don't feel restricted in moving my strobes/arms about.
  24. Just to try to hit on these one by one.. The more correct term would be extension ring, they can be used adjust how close or far the port is from the camera and lens. If the housing isn't setup for Ikelite bulkheads, you won't be able to use those strobes without replacing the bulkheads (approx $150 each??? Been a while, I forget exactly). Otherwise, if you are talking about ball mounts that go on your handles - Ultralight makes solid products, and they are friendly. I would always recommend vacuum systems, there are a few options. I have used the Vivid leak sentinel and thought it was pretty solid. I have also used the Nauticam, but I'm not sure those can be adapted to Aquatica housings or not. Generally, I don't think you'll find anyone who shoots the 105 behind a 8" dome. I suppose it's possible, but it's definitely not an optimal combination. There are several other options to get your housing serviced outside of sending it to Aquatica. I've done it myself, it's not terribly complicated but it takes time. I would estimate $300-500 for a full service (if you haven't noticed, not a cheap hobby).
  25. I have one - I have a copy of the manual, if you pm me your email address I'll send you it. In my opinion - that doesn't sound normal. Is your strobe on manual? I haven't used it in a long time as it was unreliable for triggering, so it sits in a box (want another? hah) To add - the other obvious question, there isn't any water in your sync ports is there?
×
×
  • Create New...