Pacifichiflyer

Been to Majuro several years ago. Dive operations have changed. Check out www.divemarshallislands.com www.rongelapexpeditions.com

Aloha, Been away diving and just catching up. As I said earlier I have the Sea & Sea 5000G with Sea & Sea YS90 Auto strobe. I took this to Palau and Truk and was very happy with the results. I need work on postioning strobes, but camera did great. I visited my favorite dive shop on my last trip to Tokyo and handled the new 8000G camera. Have to buy whole outfit camera & housing but the guy did say the housing is the same and that the Ricoh Capilio GX8 is the same camera. Have seen some for sale on E-bay and going to check out a couple camera shops my next trip to Japan. Thinking of getting one to have a backup. Cheers.

Thanks for the pointers. Did not pick up on the difference in strobe placement for wide angle vs longer focul lengths. Will give it a try. Also still working on strobe aim. I have some pics where I intentionally pointed the strobe away from the subject and got some neat shadows. Will try that more. Ron

Thanks for the replys. I have tried moving the strobe to different positions and that did not seem to do any good. I have a fisheye tray with two handles which are about 4" high. The strobe is mounted on the top of the left handle using two 6" ULCS arms and clamps. On the right handle I have a fisheye focus light on an 8" flexible arm. I have moved the strobe and focus light and even took shots with the focus light off and still sometimes get these reflections. I checked out http://www.kelpfish.net/strobe.swf, when I first built my setup. It shows putting the strobe out front of the lense and other postions so not sure this is a strobe placement problem. Ron

I have a Sea & Sea 5000G with 0.6X Wide Conversion lense and YS-90 Strobe. On many of my pictures I am getting what looks like a reflection of light in the upper left at about the 10 o'clock position. Sometimes it is a single curved stroke of white but can also be two or three curved strokes changing from white to magenta. Sometimes will get in both the 10 o'clock position and 4 o'clock position, usually when I get two or three stokes. Have attached two examples of problem. Pictures taken with same f stop, speed and ISO. It does not happen all the time. When I am in very close it seems not to be a problem. After looking at the exif data/properties I at first thought this problem was associated with large lens openings ie f 8.1 more often than f 4.7 or f 2.5. But after really looking at number of pics taken with each f stop there really was not a correlation. I also supected something on the lense, port etc. but found nothing and problem continued to occur after a though cleaning and checking with magnifying lense. This problem only occurs when using the wide angle lense and strobe. HELP!! Ron

I know this is kind of a late post to this subject but I had the same problem and got an answer (at least I thought it was a good answer) from Sea & Sea. Here is what they told me. Thank you for your inquiry. As you know, jpg format is compressed data and is used for most software. .tiff format is uncompressed data, so it needs more memories and takes more time to proceed. However, this tiff format is little different from ordinal .tiff format. In order to look at tiff formatted pictures, you need to install software (DU10X) which is in CD ROM that comes with the camera. Please install the software on your PC, open the pictures from memory card, and save the pictures in your PC. It is still .tiff formatted data and you can use Adobe or Photoshop. As it turns out you must open each individual photo using the DU10X software then save them to your computer. You can then open this file using photoshop, photoshop elements or whatever photo program you use. That is a ridiculous time consuming process just to get a .tiff formated pictureQ! Yes it takes forever to write the pictures you take in NC2592 (Non Compressed tiff format) hardly worth the effort. Hope this provides you some good info. I have emailed Sea & Sea several times and get replies within 2-3 days. I am using Panosonic Pro SD cards that are supposed to be the fastest possible. I just got my 5000G and am still learning it by using it on land before going under. I have a YS-90 Auto strobe that I was using with a sony housing. Any and all tips greatly appreciated. Pacifichiflyer