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yzer4

Member
  • Content Count

    42
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About yzer4

  • Rank
    Triggerfish
  • Birthday 12/29/1966

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    pvyzeren@hotmail.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Zeist, Netherlands
  • Interests
    Travel, Diving, Photography

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Netherlands
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D200, Nikon D70 (16-85mm, 18-70mm, 60mm 2.8, 28mm 2.8 and 80-200mm 2.8)
  • Camera Housing
    Sony MPK-PHA, Ikelite 6807.1, #5503.55 dome & #5502.41
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS50
  • Accessories
    na
  1. @ Karl, Yes we had a great time, diving is sooo relaxed on Bonaire and the locals are just too friendly, judging by the hangovers I've had yet again. Camera is configured to TTL, I change manual VS TTL on Ike's circuitery by pressing down the mode buttons. @Ken, that was what I was wondering about as well, the "not detected" makes me somewhat suspicious, so I would be gratefull to anybody out there that can doublecheck? @Peter I can certainly try next time, but the only real difference would be that I set the flash sync on the camera to "slow" and then I would still have to use manual settings, I mean, aperture and shutter speed will change relative to desired effect and distance to subject, won't it? The good part of it is that after starting to use manual settings (also on the camera exposure and aperture) I finally started getting the shots the way I liked them, so I may now be well and truly hooked on shooting all manual
  2. I'm baffled... When using the strobe with the TTL settings, the shots come out like sample 1 Sample 1 EXIF info S=1/60 iso=400 A=f11.0 flash fired Strobe return light not detected Auto mode 3 flash function present no red eye reduction When using the Manual setting as per Ike's circuitery, at "nominal" flash power the result is as in Sample 2. Sample 2 So clearly the strobe can supply sufficient light <_< ... I doublechecked the DS50 serial, but that's a 70K number, so according to Ike's info, it should be compatible. The sync cable has the blue band on it, so that should be compatible. I have the same results with two D70 bodies, one of which still had old FW on it. I have had one or two shots come out right before, but have not been able to establish a pattern apart from the fact that those were the only shots I took that were exposed at 1/60s, all underexposed ones were 1/250s. But now in the clear Bonaire waters, well, reasonably clear, shots at 1/60 are also dark. The pics are raw files, processed in CS2 with camera settings applied, so no tweaking on them. Has anybody got a clue? Am I just better of forgetting about iTTL and start using manual settings now? Or maybe I'm just plain old stupid and doing something wrong? Thx for any ideas, I'm somewhat out of them... PS there are more pics over on my Webpage including ones with manual strobe settings that came out pretty well, the first ones using the strobe that I'm actually pretty satisfied about B)
  3. Is this full sized or did you crop the picture? The fins are cut of a bit on the top and bottom. I used to shoot with a P10 and had a similar hue on most pics as well, but you can get some of the colours back PS. Pieter
  4. you could check the digideep website. it has a listing for all availlable housings. However, I would think that the only option for a "splash housing" would be an EWA bag. I don't know if there are many people who will trust the bag to be more than a splash bag though, although EWA claims 10 to 50m ratings on the bags depending on model. However, for the money, you could just buy it as an extra...
  5. mea culpa... James is right, just looked at my settings and I have indeed only loaded the monitor profile in the display settings and use Adobe 1998 RGB as workspace since that is what I set up on my camera... I'm gonna keep my big mouth shut now
  6. Make a profile for your monitor. make that profile the RGB working space and embed with the images that you will send to be printed. Now their printing device should translate your monitor ICC profile to their device profile and choose the closest color. If you want to look what the pic will probably look like, you should call the photolab and ask them for an ICC profile of their printing device. If they have it and send it to you, you can look in PS what the pic will look like when printed, see instructions below. Eye One does have an excellent paper on this subject, although it primarily deals with CMYK printing devices, this Photolab printer is however not a CMYK device. Still, the paper covers most of the basics of color matching. @ Eric, I didn't come with this, it's simply what ISO standard says...
  7. This will be a longish reply <_< Whitepoint settings on CRT monitors usually ranges between 5000K and 9300K. 6500K is described as "daylight" and is considered the "neutral illiminant". Less than 6500K will look yellowish, more than 6500 will appear blueish. (As background, the temperatures refers to the color of an iron bar when heated to a certain temperature and the color it will emit at that temperature) According to the ISO norm (3664:2000), use 6500K as whitepoint for the monitor. Gamma is used to describe the transition of brightness from black to white for a device in this case a monitor. Gamma values range from 1.0 to 3.0 but in practice tend to be between 1.8 and 2.2. The lower the device gamma, the brighter the mid-tones will appear. Gamma for windows environments is recommended to be set to 2.2, for Mac they usually say 1.8. Now here comes the catch: If you are really serious, you should probably have a chat with the wife/girlfriend as well: If you want optimal viewing, you'd have to paint the room in a nice neutral shade of gray or mossy green and use 5000K (d50) TL lighting. Then you'd have to make certain that outside light doesn't influence viewing conditions inside, so preferrably you'd have to blind the windows. My whole point is actually that you can take it as far as you want to take it, your pics will look great on your monitor, but when other Wetpixel users download them onto their monitor, they might look completely different... The Eye one is a good tool, I'd say better then the Spyder. Do you have the Eye One with printer proofing or without printer proofing? I have the version that has printer profiling as well, which is a nice feature since it makes me independant from the ICC profiles provided by the manufacturers.
  8. Great pics. When I did my first galleries I didn't have navigation buttons on the picture pages and got a lot of remarks about them not being there. In retrospect, I must admit that they were right, I kinda miss them on your site as well, they would save you visitors having to go back to the index after viewing a picture. Maybe the SW that you used to create the galleries also has the option of customizing the click action of the pictures to go to the next pic in the gallery in stead?
  9. And my destinations wish list just get's longer and longer... Pieter
  10. Love them all, specially jellyfish 3, although it does have some colordifferences in front of the jellyfish, probably fom retouching? I hope to get to this level of quality as well... some day Pieter
  11. good call Arnon, I've been hearing about the up and coming diving over there as well. skro0ob, pray tell us more....
  12. there is no easy answer, color management has a lot of factors involved. first thing to remember is that it will never be a 100% match, it's RGB versus CMYK, so certain colors simply can not be reproduced. What application are you using? What does the epson sw do in terms of color management? Did you profile the printer only once or did you make profiles for every paper type your printing on? etc, etc. here's a very good document from Gretach Macbeth that will give you some insights and will probably also get you in the right direction. Pieter
  13. the temperatures should be pretty much the same in H & S. There are no hotels that I know of in Hurgada that have a house reef, and not too many in Sharm either. If it's a house reef you're looking for, I'd go farther south, Like Safaga, see for instance Coral Garden hotel or El Quesir, see Subaqua There are also some hotels near Marsa Alam that have house reefs and from Marsa you should be able to do day trips to Elphinstone as well, which should be a bonus. have a nice trip.
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