davidearney
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Posts posted by davidearney
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Until returning from the Bahamas the only lens/dome combination that I had was the 20mm. I've since corrected that problem with the purchase of two more domes and a 14mm Fisheye, 15mm WA, and a 50mm Macro.
I had to crop the image a lot, and while you're suggesting putting the tongue at more of a diagonal, the image is true to the situation. The flamingo tongue was pretty much vertical where I found it on the Willaurie Wreck.
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Camera: Canon EOS 10D
Lens: Canon 20mm f/2.8 IS USM
Housing: Ikelite
Filter or Strobe: Ikelite DS-50 Sub-Strobe
Shutter Speed: 1/90 sec
Exposure Program: Manual
F-Stop: f/9.5
ISO Rating: 100
Focal Length: 20mm
Effective Focal Length: 32mm
Metering: Average
Description: Taken in the Bahamas during my Underwater Photography specialty course..
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Camera: Canon EOS 10D
Lens: Canon 20mm f/2.8 IS USM
Housing: Ikelite
Filter or Strobe: URPRO CY Color Corrective Filter
Shutter Speed: 1/90 sec
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
F-Stop: f/4.5
ISO Rating: 100
Focal Length: 20mm
Effective Focal Length: 32mm
Metering: Center weighted average
Description: Taken in the Bahamas on the day of my shark dive. This fish swam by and just stopped in front of my camera for a moment. Long enough that I could get this photo with the sun shining down through 15 feet of water.
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Concerning the "get what you paid for" remark.
I don't see a Sea & Sea equivalent, out there, and I'm not fond of Aquatica housings, so that leaves me with Ike, and frankly I like the ability to watch the entire frame and detect leaks or other problems early upon entry into the water, so the Ike frame naturally becomes the best choice.
This wasn't about wanting to hear someone denigrate a particular brand. I need a working solution that I, as a layperson, can put in place to fix a relatively minor problem.
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I have a Canon EOS 10D with an Ikelite Housing, and I'm having control problems.
Anyone else encounter a problem where your index finger adjuster knob (shutter knob in M mode) and your selector knob on the back of the camera (aperture adjustments in M mode) will not work?
My housing has only been in the water a few times and I like to think that I take very good care of it, but when I was in the Bahamas a few weeks ago I had to fight with the housing most of the week. Finally, I took a bit of plastic from blister packaging, folded it in half, and slid it between the frame of the camera and the platform that my EOS rests on in the housing.
That put just enough pressure on the camera to tilt it back enough to allow both controls proper contact with the housing controls.
Does anyone have any suggestions about a better way of fixing this problem?
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First air consumption: You're right on the air. My first 5 dives were painfully short but by dive 6 I was in control of my breathing. By dive 10 I was in the water for 45 minutes at 65 feet - a lot better progress.
I hadn't thought about learning all of the skills one handed, but I'll definitely work on that in October. As far as descending along a line, the obvious thing there is to tether the camera so that I can have both hands free for descent. Clearing my ears isn't a problem for me though. I can just wiggle my jaw and I'm good to go - really convenient actually.
All of your equipment locating points are extremely valid and I'll definitely merit some practice BEFORE getting into the water with the camera.
Since I get vacation 6 weeks a year, with my current employer, and I'm planning on diving during all vacations, 50 dives won't be a problem. My next R&R I'm hoping to get in between 18 and 27 dives and I'll still have 2 more weeks of dive vacation available in October.
I hope you can see we arent trying to be condesending to you as a new diver but are trying to help you become a good diver and good underwater photograper. But you must do it in that order.I know you weren't meaning to be condescending, that's the reason that I posted the apology later in the thread. I agree that I have to be good at both, not just one.
You will find that different companys use different tables and have different guidelines so it will be more work on your part to learn 2 sets of guidelines but that is the only issue.I hadn't thought of different tables from different companies, but that's an excellent point and I suppose that keeps me diving with PADI. I don't see a reason to mix and match when that doesn't allow for things to remain consistent.
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Apologies for the tone of my response. I was a bit frustrated.
I understand the concern with protecting the reefs and natural environs, but I'm no slouch with my SLR. I'm a fast shooting photographer above water and I don't intend on taking serious closeups at reefs or other sites until I've mastered handling of the camera underwater.
On another note....I know that PADI offers the National Geographic Diver program, but are there any other conservation diving programs that are offered?
I'm a PADI Open Water diver as of this past February (with 10 dives from the same vacation woohoo!) and I'm interested in the conservation side of diving.
Another question is: Do I have to stick with PADI for everything now that I've started with them or will they all mix and match....has anyone tried?
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I've not gotten the hundreds of dives under my belt that Mike and acroporas sound like they have, but I'm not intending on going to the expense of buying a smaller camera and a housing for the tradeoff of the issues of shutter delay and sensor lag.
The reason that I went for the SLR above water was as simple as the reason that I won't go for a P&S below water - I can't get the on-demand response from lesser digitals that I can get wth an SLR.
Perhaps you're right and I do need to work on my bouyancy control some first, I'll take that under advisement before I put the camera in the water with me. With upcoming R&R's I should have between 32 and 50 dives under my belt by October. Will that be enough that I don't have much more to worry about?
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As the title suggests, I'm new to SCUBA, and I have a Canon 10D. I'll be using a Canon 20mm WA lens with a URPro CY filter when I go diving with my camera the first time, but I have some questions.
I have been looking around the forums and I keep seeing diopters mentioned, specifically the +4 diopter. The only diopter that I'm aware of on my camera is on the eyepiece.
I've never used add-on diopters before and in fact this site is the first time I've seen such extensive mention of them. Can anyone help me out with this issue? I really don't fancy my shots going all to hell for lack of focusing.
My next concern is "dropping" the camera in the water. I have purchased an Ikelite housing and dome port, so I'm good on housing, but I notice no tether on the housing. Does anyone have any suggestions on attaching a tether to the housing so that I can't "lose" the camera in the water?
I was Open Water certified Cancun in February and the most frustrating part of diving for me at that point was my inability to take my camera with me in the water. I've since corrected that problem, but I want to make sure I'm travelling the right road in terms of additional equipment.
Thanks in advance for your help,
David
Shark Dive 5
in Photo / Video Showcase
Posted
Camera: Canon EOS 10D
Lens: Canon 20mm f/2.8 IS USM
Housing: Ikelite
Filter or Strobe: URPRO CY Color Corrective Filter
Shutter Speed: 1/30 sec
Exposure Program: Manual
F-Stop: f/4.5
ISO Rating: 100
Focal Length: 20mm
Effective Focal Length: 32mm
Metering: Center-weighted average
Description: This photo was taken while diving at the shark arena off of Nassau, New Providence, The Bahamas. The photographer in frame is Julia, from the Fin Photo Staff at Stuart Cove's Aqua Adventures.