Telar

I'm not sure why there is so much more discussion about this "specialty" kind of insurance rather than just extending the coverage of homeowners. It's cheaper and there are no hokey exclusions, at least with my carrier. The only issue my agent pointed out was that claims can affect rates. (More on that later on.) I recently spoke to my homeowners insurance agent regarding "scheduling", ie listing specific items to be covered. This process provides a very differant insurance coverage from normal homeowners coverage. Normally my house and its contents are protected from "named perils", fire, theft, windstorm, etc. to the extent the loss exceeds my deductible. Scheduled items are specified (XYZ Camera, serial number xxxx) and are covered for all perils with no deductible . Swept overboard, stolen, lost, flooded, eaten by a shark, you name it, it is covered. As to cost, for me it is about 7/10ths of 1 percent of the value of the covered item, or $7 US per 1,000. I checked the specialty carriers and they were closer to 10%! Just like special cancer insurance and mortgage insurance policies, they are signifigantly overpriced and prey on people's ignorance. Sorry if I've stepped on toes, but that is the truth. Claims can affect the rates of my overall homeowners insurance. For me that is unlikely to happen or, if so, will be a minor issue. If you have few claims over time and your credit score is good you are pretty safe from big increases. Going with the specialty carriers may not protect you from rate increases on your homeowners. Just like health insurance, these companies share information. Just because you don't submit a claim to your homeowners company doesn't mean they don't know about it eventually. And they treat a claim with another carrier the same as a claim with them when figuring your rating. Don't know yet if reimbursement is based on depreciated value or replacement value. Either way, this seems like a better way to go.

Okay. Pretty basic, I know, but this is the first time I ever had a secondary/add-on lens. So I am on the boat for a two tank dive (not a liveaboard). What stuff do I want to have with me to take care of this WA lens, and the camera too, I guess? I'm not proud, no answer is too obvious. I saw a list that included foam makeup applicators. I suppose I can get them at the local Walgreens, but then what do I do with them? What about the little bulb syringes with a brush on the end. How well do they work? Then comes lens tissue. I have a box of lens tissues that's been around for years for my glasses. Normally I just discard the first one that has been collecting dust and spritz from a little pump bottle thats also been around for years. **(Is the proper technique brush, don't rub?)** The bottle is small but the tissue box is maybe 4"x4"x2", somewhat of a space hog to me. Also the box is vulnerable to both water and crushing. Guess I could just put a few tissues in a ziplock and the spray in another ziplock. Okay, never mind on that question. Also on the list was a chamois/microfiber towel. That's to dry the housing before opening, yes? And where does one pick up a microfiber towel? What do you use? What do you carry it in? BTW, the lens came with a screw on cover for the camera-side (diopter?) lens but nothing for the front. I had a land camera that I kept a clear or u/v filter on all the time to protect the lens. Shouldn't there be a corresponding device for this lens? Also, shouldn't there be a lens cover for when it is not in use? Looking forward to your response. Please feel free to answer whatever parts of this posting you feel like and have time for. Thanks.

I'm in the US. All my Sony products worked fine also so I never needed CS either, but to count on that absolutely is not in my nature.

What!? Thirty people have viewed this post so far. I'm surprised no one has had a comment yet.

Oh. Okay. Thank you.

I know in general terms what a poll is. What is a poll and how is it accomplished in a web forum?

Trying to decide between the Sony V3 and the Fuji f810. I recently read several complaints of horrible customer service and warranty issues about Sony. I would like a sense if these are isolated exceptions or typical. I'd like to hear from those with Sony and/or Fuji customer service and warranty support experience. How were you treated? Did they live up to the spirit of their warranty? Would you buy their products again?

Mike, 70% of my diving will be drift diving. So my subjects will tend to be medium to large reef fish. Due to the pull of the group on a drift dive (not wanting the DM to have to come back to get me 8-( ) I won't get a chance to do much macro, at least not of the shy rascals. I assume the larger the subject, generally the more a WA lens is appropriate, yes? Also, I was told your b flat 35 mm lens would be considered WA on the surface, but u/w the field narrows due to refraction, making it effectively closer to a 50 mm. Based on these assumptions I figued WA would be important to me. So, are my assumptions correct? What do you think about my conclusions? Anybody else have an opinion?..want to jump in? Feel free. 8-) Don, what about the Sony V3? (See the beginning of the thread. Thought that would be enough bait to attract you. 8-0)

I read the thread started by Mason H asking for suggestions for an under $1000 system. I want a complete setup for about $1,500 so it attacted my attention. The info was great (and the subplot of newbie behavior in relation to the advice could have been a comedy script). Mike & Don, you guys convinced me I need to buy either the Fuji f810 or the Sony V3. At least I was sure until right near the end of the thread. Then didn't you indicate that neither can produce good output u/w with a wide angle lens? Did I misunderstand? Isn't this a pretty big issue? Sincerely, Another Newbie

Great James. Thank you.

Thanks Don. You have given me my next few research assignments.: >For my money, the best non dslr solution out there now is the sony V3 - far awd >away the best AF in any digicam, near 0 final press shutter lag, great focus >closeup mode that allows focus from very close up, to infinity, without switching >in and out. This one will take several days for me to get back to you with intelligent questions. >Regarding TTL and strobes, read the thread "TTL Anonymous". I read the thread. So the value of TTL in today's digital cameras depends on who you talk to, the kind of situations faced, and personal experience and taste. It is not open and shut. TTL ability now becomes a less important feature than previously in deciding which camera and strobe combination to purchase. >Have you done a lot of land photography? Yes. >Have you used manual flashes, using the guide numer >rule? None. Okay. It is almost 11 PM. My eyes are starting to close. Have to respond to the rest tomorrow. Thanks again.

Could you give me some suggestions? A couple years ago some well-meaning friends gave me a Reefmaster CL camera. I bought a Reefmaster strobe for it. Couldn't get an in-focus picture with the outfit and left it in a closet for 3 years. (I do get decent shots with an MX-10 outfit so I'm not willing to take the blame.) Now my wife is showing an interest in u/w photography and I would sure like to salvage something from the Reefmaster debacle in the application of the strobe to a relatively inexpensive camera. The camera could be film or digital, though digital might be the preference. I'm thinking in the $150 - $300 range. The strobe is optically fired with a sensor on the side. Its settings are "On", "Off", and "Test". Looking forward to your ideas.

I do not yet have a digital camera. I'm researching so I can make some knowledgeable purchases. So far I know a few things: 70% of my diving is drft diving with a group. That means patient, very close macro work is problematic due to current and the pull of the group. Experience wth a fixed focus camera/strobe outfit (an MX-10) tells me I tend to hesitate and shoot too late. So long shutter lag is a no-no for me. I can't afford a DSLR outfit even if all I get is a camera, and housing. I can afford a more middle-of-the-road camera with an inexpensive housing from the camera manufacturer, and a strobe. Beyond that, I am undecided. Olympus clearly wants to be in the market with three wide-angle cameras/housings in my price range. But reports tell me their AF is way slow. (I have worked with AF on land. Now that I know it's available u/w too, it's a feature that is too good to pass up.) So now I need to look at other camera brands. Each of which has their strengths and weaknesses. But before I can do that seriously I need to know about strobes. This is a whole new set parameters I'm not familiar with. I do know they often work differently wth different cameras. There's TTL, and steps, and adjustable power, and fiber-optic triggering, and so on, ad infinitum. My eyes start to cross after a while. I'd appreciate some perspective, perhaps an overview of a few pieces of the puzzle. Thanks.

Well maybe I just climbed out of my Model T (MX-10). First, is my guess that "AF" means autofocus accurate?...And it works underwater? Don't I feel silly. What kind of range does it have?

Hi! Where can one find an overview of digital u/w photography equipment that gives a beginner enough information to buy a whole package, camera, housing, strobe, lenses? I want to go digital. I know what kinds of photographs I want to get. What I don't want is to buy a camera and housing that's right for me only to find I need a certain kind of strobe that won't work well with that camera. Some subject samplings: terminology. what is TTL? why should I care what it is? what is white balance? how can I use it? what about light meters? do I need one? Can you direct me to a source for this?