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Mark Twain

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Mark Twain last won the day on August 30 2016

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About Mark Twain

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A-65
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125 & DS-161
  1. I found a decent priced Sea & Sea 12mm. Should I buy it? Is it correct, that the FOV is ~167° (diagonally or vertically?)? I couldn't find detailled descriptions. Also what I've read is that the minimum focusing distance is 30cm which is a lot in my opinion for such a wide lens. Does anybody have had problems so far in this regard?
  2. Many thanks for the info. How does the nauticam Adapter work in Terms of connection to the camera? I worry about light leaks and durability
  3. The 12-24 is a valid Option but it offers 'only' 122 degrees fov diagonally in comparison to a fisheye with 180 degrees.
  4. Hi, I am currently shooting with my Sony A7 in a Nauticam housing and for wideangle I use my 16-35/4. Though I am happy with that lens I sometimes miss a fisheye and I really do not like the fisheye adapter solution by Sony. So I am thinking about getting a Sea&Sea 12mm but I have a few questions. Is there enough space between housing and lens to comfortably operate aperture and focus dials? How is the Sea&Sea mounted on the housing in terms of durability/stability and how is it mounted on my Sony camera? Is anybody using this combination and can report? Many thanks!
  5. Thank you all for your replies! I already ordered a Retra snoot and will use it on my dive trip to the Red Sea in June; I hope I can test it extensively prior to that in fresh water. The snoot holder by Retra is a bit expensive for a nylon bag in my opinion. I'll have a look if I can make a DIY solution that fits my needs ;-)
  6. Hi, many thanks for your reply. I think I will go for the Retra. Nevertheless, I think when using a wide angle lens and not a macro I still want to take some snooted pictures (see the first picture here for an example of what I mean) every now and then - and if not, I have to take the Retra off. Well, we will see how everything works out in the end ;-) I'm quite happy that you can confirm that the Z-240's modeling light is quite good visible. Regards
  7. Beautiful pictures, many thanks for sharing! I especially like the second one though it is really hard to pick a favourite. Great work!
  8. Hi, I have searched a lot for a proper snoot solution for one of my Inon Z-240s and basically I came across three solutions: fiber optic arms something like Inon's own snoot solution (with other manufacturers having additionally a laser aiming light) Retra Which one would you prefer? Currently I am leaning towards the Retra given its flexibility. But how do you store the Retra when you decide to take a picture without it? Also it is really heavy (600g though I don't know how much in water). Regards,
  9. I'm glad that I have bought Z-240ies from what I've heard about Sea & Sea so far. The knobs are definitely to small and to numerous, especially in comparison to my previously owned DS-161/125 and the battery compartment is a bit fuzzy - but what counts in the end is reliability. Unfortunately I did not have many occasions where I could try out my new strobes but in a few days I'm going on a trip to the Red Sea and I will report more after that.
  10. 50mm is a bit short for my taste but choice is always a good thing. Price: around 500$ Press release: http://www.sony.com/en_us/SCA/company-news/press-releases/sony-electronics/2016/sony-releases-full-frame-fe-50mm-f28-macro-lens.html
  11. I had the Sigma 10/2.8 and I tried it on my A7 with LA-EA3 once and it worked (although I would have had to shave it to cover the A7's full frame sensor). AF was naturally slow but this should not be an issue with LA-EA2/4.
  12. Why not stay with the Sigma 10/2.8 and use the native Sony LA-EA3/4 instead? Having said that, I don't know if that combination phyiscally fits into your housing but AF should be fine at least with LA-EA4 (I'm not sure how well the a6000 performs with the LA-EA3).
  13. Unfortunately I have no idea where I read about the incompatibility, I was 100% sure I read it on Nauticam's homepage about Sony A7/ii mini flash trigger but I can't find that information there any more. Probably my fault. Longevity and reliability is very important for me, those two factors justify sacrificing the better controls of the D2. Auto mode is not really important for me. Previously I had Ikelite DS125/161 in an Ikelite housing but I hardly ever used TTL (sometimes when doing macro).
  14. Thanks for the answers. I'm using a Sony A7 inside Nauticam's NA-A7 housing. I've already downloaded the manual of the Inon Z-240 and it is indeed trash. But after a bit of googling I found some decent manuals on the internet. Basically, using the Z-240 is pretty easy if you do not have TTL. Just put them on FULL for a full dump or manual and adjust the strength of the flash with the right wheel (if I remember correctly). I'm going to buy those Z-240 (you convinced me ) from a local dealer here in Vienna so if something goes wrong I know in whose letterbox I'm going to pee
  15. Hi, I'm currently searching for a pair of strobes for my Nauticam housing and I'm wondering if I should go for Inon Z-240ies or Sea & Sea YS-D2 (or alternatively YS-D1, although they are more difficult to find these days in Europe). I'm slightly leaning towards the Inon Z-240 (Mark IV) as it can be used with fiber optic sync cords (whereas the YS-D2 would require 5-pin nikonos cords on Nauticam housing) and I read far more posts complaining about the quality of Sea & Sea flashes than Inon's flashes. The YS-D2 would be stronger than the Z-240 (32 vs. 24) but this advantage disappears when using the diffusor to achieve the same angle as the Z-240. So the advantage that remains are the more intuitive controls of the YS-D2. Price is basically the same. Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance!
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