Jump to content

Mark Twain

Member
  • Content Count

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Mark Twain

  1. I found a decent priced Sea & Sea 12mm. Should I buy it? Is it correct, that the FOV is ~167° (diagonally or vertically?)? I couldn't find detailled descriptions. Also what I've read is that the minimum focusing distance is 30cm which is a lot in my opinion for such a wide lens. Does anybody have had problems so far in this regard?
  2. Many thanks for the info. How does the nauticam Adapter work in Terms of connection to the camera? I worry about light leaks and durability
  3. The 12-24 is a valid Option but it offers 'only' 122 degrees fov diagonally in comparison to a fisheye with 180 degrees.
  4. Hi, I am currently shooting with my Sony A7 in a Nauticam housing and for wideangle I use my 16-35/4. Though I am happy with that lens I sometimes miss a fisheye and I really do not like the fisheye adapter solution by Sony. So I am thinking about getting a Sea&Sea 12mm but I have a few questions. Is there enough space between housing and lens to comfortably operate aperture and focus dials? How is the Sea&Sea mounted on the housing in terms of durability/stability and how is it mounted on my Sony camera? Is anybody using this combination and can report? Many thanks!
  5. Thank you all for your replies! I already ordered a Retra snoot and will use it on my dive trip to the Red Sea in June; I hope I can test it extensively prior to that in fresh water. The snoot holder by Retra is a bit expensive for a nylon bag in my opinion. I'll have a look if I can make a DIY solution that fits my needs ;-)
  6. Hi, many thanks for your reply. I think I will go for the Retra. Nevertheless, I think when using a wide angle lens and not a macro I still want to take some snooted pictures (see the first picture here for an example of what I mean) every now and then - and if not, I have to take the Retra off. Well, we will see how everything works out in the end ;-) I'm quite happy that you can confirm that the Z-240's modeling light is quite good visible. Regards
  7. Beautiful pictures, many thanks for sharing! I especially like the second one though it is really hard to pick a favourite. Great work!
  8. Hi, I have searched a lot for a proper snoot solution for one of my Inon Z-240s and basically I came across three solutions: fiber optic arms something like Inon's own snoot solution (with other manufacturers having additionally a laser aiming light) Retra Which one would you prefer? Currently I am leaning towards the Retra given its flexibility. But how do you store the Retra when you decide to take a picture without it? Also it is really heavy (600g though I don't know how much in water). Regards,
  9. I'm glad that I have bought Z-240ies from what I've heard about Sea & Sea so far. The knobs are definitely to small and to numerous, especially in comparison to my previously owned DS-161/125 and the battery compartment is a bit fuzzy - but what counts in the end is reliability. Unfortunately I did not have many occasions where I could try out my new strobes but in a few days I'm going on a trip to the Red Sea and I will report more after that.
  10. 50mm is a bit short for my taste but choice is always a good thing. Price: around 500$ Press release: http://www.sony.com/en_us/SCA/company-news/press-releases/sony-electronics/2016/sony-releases-full-frame-fe-50mm-f28-macro-lens.html
  11. I had the Sigma 10/2.8 and I tried it on my A7 with LA-EA3 once and it worked (although I would have had to shave it to cover the A7's full frame sensor). AF was naturally slow but this should not be an issue with LA-EA2/4.
  12. Why not stay with the Sigma 10/2.8 and use the native Sony LA-EA3/4 instead? Having said that, I don't know if that combination phyiscally fits into your housing but AF should be fine at least with LA-EA4 (I'm not sure how well the a6000 performs with the LA-EA3).
  13. Unfortunately I have no idea where I read about the incompatibility, I was 100% sure I read it on Nauticam's homepage about Sony A7/ii mini flash trigger but I can't find that information there any more. Probably my fault. Longevity and reliability is very important for me, those two factors justify sacrificing the better controls of the D2. Auto mode is not really important for me. Previously I had Ikelite DS125/161 in an Ikelite housing but I hardly ever used TTL (sometimes when doing macro).
  14. Thanks for the answers. I'm using a Sony A7 inside Nauticam's NA-A7 housing. I've already downloaded the manual of the Inon Z-240 and it is indeed trash. But after a bit of googling I found some decent manuals on the internet. Basically, using the Z-240 is pretty easy if you do not have TTL. Just put them on FULL for a full dump or manual and adjust the strength of the flash with the right wheel (if I remember correctly). I'm going to buy those Z-240 (you convinced me ) from a local dealer here in Vienna so if something goes wrong I know in whose letterbox I'm going to pee
  15. Hi, I'm currently searching for a pair of strobes for my Nauticam housing and I'm wondering if I should go for Inon Z-240ies or Sea & Sea YS-D2 (or alternatively YS-D1, although they are more difficult to find these days in Europe). I'm slightly leaning towards the Inon Z-240 (Mark IV) as it can be used with fiber optic sync cords (whereas the YS-D2 would require 5-pin nikonos cords on Nauticam housing) and I read far more posts complaining about the quality of Sea & Sea flashes than Inon's flashes. The YS-D2 would be stronger than the Z-240 (32 vs. 24) but this advantage disappears when using the diffusor to achieve the same angle as the Z-240. So the advantage that remains are the more intuitive controls of the YS-D2. Price is basically the same. Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  16. Hi, I'm selling my complete Ikelite/Sony setup. All parts are in used but good condition and never flooded. Housing: Underwater TTL Housing for Sony Alpha A57, Alpha A65 DSLR (6842.65): € 600 Universal Zoom Set for Lenses up to 3.0-inch Diameter (5509.28): incl. Focus Clamp (9059.8 ): incl. Explorer Case (3818): € 200 Ports: Modular 8-inch Dome (5510.45): € 150 Modular 2.75-inch Lens Extension (5510.11): € 75 Dome Port 4-inch Length (5503.50): € 50 Flat port 3.5-inch Length (5502): € 100 Strobe: Alu Arm System 9"/9" (2x): € 180 DS161 Strobe + Video Light (4061): € 500 DS125 Strobe (4065): € 300 NiMH Battery Pack (4066.5): incl. Smart Charger for NiMH and NiCad (4066.1): incl. Ikelite-to-Ikelite TTL Dual Sync Cord (4103.52): € 100 (Variable) Neoprene Floats for DS125/160/161: incl. I prefer the complete ready-to-shoot setup being sold as a whole but will also sell individual items (with those buyers preferred who buy more parts). I recommend getting one Explorer Case (3818) when buying the housing as the foam is customized for the Housing + macro port + both flash units (without batteries) and offers protection. I have a second 3818 Explorer Case in which the 8" dome, arms & clamps, and battery packs fit. So best is getting both strobes, arms, housing and 8" dome with the two cases. Shipping from Austria worldwide. Of course you can also buy the corresponding photo gear: Sony A65V: € 300 Tamron 17-50/2.8: € 100 Tamron 60/2 Makro: € 200 Sigma 10/2.8 Fisheye: € 300
  17. Thank you for the image and description. I think this is a good solution. If you still want to use a shade for topside shots you can as well use some generic screw-in shade. Having the ability to zoom from 11(/10)-20mm would be great for fish portraits. Have you already made the test with the new extension? Happy holidays!
  18. Hi, sorry that was a misinterpretation for my part. The WWL-1 seems to be significantly cheaper than the 16-35 with a suitable Dome (but at the cost of less versatility). A 180° fisheye would be great nevertheless - just as you said ;-)
  19. Hi phil, could you provide more information about how you took the pictures? Aperture and method of focusing (af/mf and continuous af or single shot?)? The lens seems to be tack sharp, although in some pictures focus seems a bit misplaced to me (fore example in the first picture the focus is slightly before the eye). You mentioned the availability of a fisheye lens. As there is already the SEL057FEC which converts the FE 28/2 into a fisheye lens, have you ever considered using this combination (assuming that a port is available)? I highly doubt that there will be a native (in the sense that it is not an adpater solution) any time soon as the SEL057FEC is available. Regards!
  20. Could you please post a picture of how you modified the lens? Interesting work, I considered buying a rectilinear ultra-wideangle lens once but ended up buying the Sigma 10/2.8 diagonal fisheye.
  21. Thank you! Unfortunately the max sync speed of the A65 is 1/160 - a pure software limitation, as its big brother (the A77) which has the same sensor and processor is capable of doing 1/250. I think the key to better sharpness is more stability. As you said it is nowhere near the Caribbean or Red Sea or many other spots, but when you live in Central Europe it is easy to get there by car for three or four days and gives you some nice diving. I've been at Trogir Diving Center and most diving spots are whin this region.
  22. Thanks #1: 1/60, F7.1, ISO 500 #2: 1/160, F11, ISO 100 #3: 1/160, F20, ISO 400 #4: 1/160, F16, ISO 400 #5: 1/160, F22, ISO 100 #6: 1/160, F11, ISO 100 #7: 1/160, F8, ISO 100 #8: 1/160, F11, ISO 100 I think most of the blur comes from shake. Most of my macros of the nudibranches were not useable at all because I could not find anything sharp - which is then caused by shake imho. Furthermore I had troubles because of very negative buoyancy so I'm thinking about getting some floating elements for my arms or macro port. The wideangles were taken with a Sigma 10/2.8 fisheye and the macros with a Tamron 60/2.8 (which is a really sharp lens) mounted on a Sony A65 inside an Ikelite housing. As I find it easier to pre-focus manually and then move the housing to focus on my desired object when doing macro I am not using auto-focus (af also hunts a lot when doing macros near 1:1 and there is no focus limiter). But I'm not 100% sure why so many of the nudis are not sharp. I think it is because of camera shake or wrong focus or a combination of both. Sharpness should be reasonable good even at F22.
  23. Diving in croatia is great fun and you can enjoy nice diving spots with scarp slopes, lots of fish and sea fans. Critics highly appreciated!
  24. As I own a Sony A7 but do not use it for underwater (I have already invested in a Sony A65 inside an Ikelite housing and can't afford switching in the coming years I'm afraid) I am following information about lens/port availability and general functionality regarding underwater usage very frequent. I was always quite happy with battery life when using my A7. I noticed that when using the 16-35/4 it drained faster due to IS; when using old Minolta MD/MC lenses battery life was very good, even compared to A-mount cameras which have a larger battery. So I think using a full frame E-mount camera with sensor stabilization and optical stabilizer (e.g. Sony A7ii or A7Rii with 16-35/4) will drain your battery very fast. This means that you have to change your battery after every dive which is always a very unpleasant thing to do (at least for me) and increases the risk of flooding your housing. I hope Sony will improve the battery life by either reducing energy consumption or providing bigger batteries (which will increase weight) or same-sized batteries with increased mAh. But I noticed on the images of the first post in this thread that there seems to be some space left beside the camera body inside the housing. So I am wondering if it would be possible to use a battery dummy which is connected to an external battery? This requires an external battery which fits in the housing (and provides more power than a standard battery obviously) and the possibility to run a cable from the battery slot to the external battery.
  25. I'm accepting applications (females favored - sorry guys )
×
×
  • Create New...