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DigiSnap Mark

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About DigiSnap Mark

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    Clownfish

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    http://www.Harbortronics.com
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    Fort Collins, Colorado
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    Scuba, electronics

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  1. Thought you folks might be interested... I've decided to offer as a standard product, an underwater time-lapse camera system. Just announced it today! https://www.harbortronics.com/Products/Hydrolapse/
  2. It is possible to add a wired remote control to the D70... http://dp-now.com/archives/000689.html This would allow use of a simple electrical cable release, which might be easier to implement than a mechanical system. Mark
  3. Right.. the bottom of the camera does have a lot more pins / functionality than the 10 pin connector. As I remember, the 10 pin on the MB-D100 only has the shutter release and power.
  4. I'm about to buy the D70, and of course will consider a housing for it someday. I currently use a Coolpix 950 in an Ikelite housing, and am concerned about using a viewfinder. With the non-SLR digicams, the LCD provides a 'live' view from the camera's lens, making it IMHO quite a bit easy to frame a shot. I can poke the camera into a crevice and still be able to see whether the octopus is still in the scene, while hanging out upside down and swimming against the current (standard practice in the Puget Sound). Putting my mask up against the back of a housing, looking into a tiny passive optical viewfinder through several air spaces, three glass plates, some water, as well as a mirror / prism seems to me like a real disadvantage. I've been a huge fan of the Coolpix swivel lens, and really wanted to develop an U/W housing that made use of that feature, so I could look down, or angled into the camera, rather than having to place my face directly at the back of the camera. Aquatica had a great idea with the Coolpix 995 housing, with the 45 degree LCD angle. I honestly don't know how U/W photographers frame their pictures when the camera is sitting on the bottom. Any comments on the use of DSLR viewfinders???
  5. It may happen more often than you might think. I've worked on a lot of Coolpix 990s... IR mods, major re-configuration for deep ocean cameras, etc., and have noticed that there are at least two different case designs... very subtle differences though.
  6. We do... The DigiSnap 2000 controllers can be used with the 10pin connector. This allow for shutter release, and time-lapse operations. That's all that's available via the 10 pin on the D100.
  7. I can imagine the warm water divers wondering why the heck we would bother diving up here in the cold, given the need for dry suits, thick gloves, hood, etc, plus all the extra weight (30 lbs is pretty light... I use 40, and my buddy uses 50) to sink it all. Fun climbing back up the hill at Sunrise Beach after a dive... I still laugh when I think back to my first dive in Hawaii... I picked up the weight belt (only 12 lbs!) and about threw it over the car! The kicker is all the life up here. Very nice diving! I haven't been up as far as Port Hardy, but I'd sure like to! I think ol' Jacques Cousteau has been quoted as saying that one of his favorite areas to dive in the world was the Puget Sound. My wife is a non diver... pity me....
  8. There don't seem to be many articles that deal with dome vs flat ports. I'll admit there are some, but the ones I've read tend to deal with generalities, and when I dive deeper to try to find some fundamentals with which to buoy my understanding, I flounder and sink into despair (ok... lousy puns, but you get the point!). One general basic about dome ports is that the dome creates a virtual image that is closer to the lens than a distant subject, whose distance is dependent on the dome radius. Does anyone know of a good reference that goes through the optics/math? I've always wondered if this gives any particular advantage to lenes that can focus up close. Another point I've read, and experienced, is that a dome does not focus an image properly for use with an uncorrected lens. For instance, if you put a wide angle lens in a dome, the center of the image might look fine, but the edges are out of focus. Apparently a correction lens is required for use with a dome, whose diopter is dependent again on the dome radius. It is optimally located at the center of the dome... In developing a deep water (i.e. 20,000 ft deep) system, with a small dome, this was clearly (there's those puns again) apparent. Working with the Nikon 24mm lens on a coolpix 990, the difference in edge to edge sharpness is quite obvious when a corrector lens is used. This begs a question... how well does the 19mm lens work with scuba housing domes??? Anyone seeing this issue? I've never noticed it with a 950/24mm on a Ikelite housing. Again... anyone know of good technical references on the subject? Mark
  9. Optical quality aside, unless the lens is purposly designed for U/W use, the seals between the lens elements (if there are any) are not likely to hold up to much pressure.
  10. Many moons ago I wrapped up a portable mineral light (black light), and took it for a dive. Flooded it fairly quickly, but I didn't see anything fluoresce while it worked. (Puget Sound) T'would be cool if it worked!
  11. That's a lot of metal carved off of that billet!
  12. I've got it! We need to place a small 18% gray card in every scene, and then PS it out after using it to balance the image. Wow, I see a new market opening up... a trained photographer's assistant fish, to swim into each scene wearing a gray plackard! One sold with each camera rig, possibly with a maintainance plan? [Edited on 5-24-2002 by DigiSnap Mark]
  13. Actually the WB works, in that it assigns white to 'something' in the image, but there are time when the lighting is poor enough (generally my fault), or there is nothing in the scene that is actualy white, so that it shifts the color of the entire image way off of center, and in those cases, there usually isn't enough dynamic range in the pixel color depth to pull it back. I don't think there's any problem with the WB on my 950, nor any particular shot to shot variation, but the scenery and lighting vary so strongly from shot to shot that it's sometimes pushed beyond it's capabiities.
  14. I've only used auto-WB, and have seen a huge variation in the results, depending on location and lighting (duh). In most shots, there's enough dynamic range to drag it back into balance using post editing, but it would be nice to not have to rely on it, particulalr as it doesn't always work. Time is so limited though that I don't much like the idea of doing manual WB on each shot... hmmm.
  15. I do some photography in the Puget Sound... likewise fairly dark waters, where only on shallow dives can I rely on ambient light. Thus far I've used only video lighting, and it's worked for me, but I do mostly macro. If you autofocus, then you need a source of constant light... Strobe would be great for wider angle / more distant scenes, but those are not all that common here. I did a dive with a buddy using a strobe, while I had a video light. We both did some shots of a giant octopus in a den, and his strobe scared the $#%! out of her, while the video light just made her squint.
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