
msilver2
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Posts posted by msilver2
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camera and housing are now sold
--msilver2
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$1000 for the housing itself
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My attempt to send private messages may not have worked. If you are interested in the housing & camera, you can email me at msilver2@comcast.net
--msilver2
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It is available. I have never sold anything through wetpixel. Is there a way to communicate offline?
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yes, still available
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I am selling my Nauticam housing for the Olympus E-M1, as well as a mint-condition E-M1
$1600 total; will ship within continental U.S.
Housing:
Nauticam NA-EM1 housing for Olympus E-M1, with Nauticam Vacuum Check and Leak Detection System
Olympus E-M1
Mint condition--less than 600 shutter activations (purchased new as backup camera 11/2016)
firmware version 4.1 installed
comes with original box and all original accessories:
· Flash FL-LM2
· Flash case· Lithium ion battery BLN-1
· Lithium ion battery charger BCN-1
· Shoulder strap
· USB cable
· Computer software CD-ROM
· Instruction manual
plus these extras:
· 2 extra Olympus batteries
· 1 additional third-party battery
· Wasabi power charger (plugs into outlet—no need for cord)
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Twice now in the last four days the E-M1 has locked up on me during a dive. The camera sticks into one screen and then it won't respond to any buttons or knobs and won't take a photo and won't turn off. both times I had to wait until the dive was over and remove the battery. After reinserting the battery topside, the camera returned to normal operation. Anyone had a similar experience? Is there a solution? It's hard to imagine sending it in for repair as I don't know that the problem would manifest itself while the doctor is looking at it.
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it's two YS-01 strobes.
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I posted this question yesterday, but the photos didn't come thru. Here's a second try.
On my first dive trip with the Olympus E-M1 and the Nauticam housing, I had a problem using TTL. I think it showed up the most with medium distances using the 60mm macro lens. I was using two YS-01 strobes.
I have some examples of the problem. All of these are shot with the mode dial on manual. The metering was center-weighted.
Here’s a pair of flamingo tongues that were overexposed when shot at 1/320th and f6.3.
My reaction was to drastically change the f stop, so exposure on the next shot was OK 1/320th at f 14.0:
Same dive, here’s a toadfish overexposed when shot at 1/320th and f 8.0:
Again, I stopped the camera down, and the next shot was OK at 1/320th and f 14.0:
Here’s a shot that had OK exposure at 1/160th at f 6.3:
But then the very next shot (different subject), is way over-exposed when also shot at 1/160th at f 6.3:
The same scene is better exposed after drastic changes to the shutter speed and aperture, this time 1/320th at f13.0:
Any ideas what I was doing wrong? Could I have had the flash setting on “full” rather than “fill”? Would that explain this?
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thanks for the reply. I'll have to figure out why the photos didn't post. I haven't done this before.
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Steve: I posted my question in the forum re mirrorless cameras. (Maybe I should have posted it here in the beginners forum, or maybe in the lighting forum, since it's a question about TTL.)
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On my first dive trip with the Olympus E-M1 and the Nauticam housing, I had a problem using TTL. I think it showed up the most with medium distances using the 60mm macro lens. I was using two YS-01 strobes.
I have some examples of the problem. All of these are shot with the mode dial on manual. The metering was center-weighted. Here’s a pair of flamingo tongues that were overexposed when shot at 1/320th and f6.3:
My reaction was to drastically change the f stop, so the next shot was OK 1/320th at f 14.0:
Same dive, here’s a toadfish overexposed when shot at 1/320th and f 8.0:
Again, I stopped the camera down, and the next shot was OK at 1/320th and f 14.0:
Here’s a shot that had OK exposure at 1/160th at f 6.3:
But then the very next shot (different subject), is way over-exposed when also shot at 1/160th at f 6.3:
The same scene is better exposed after drastic changes to the shutter speed and aperture, this time 1/320th at f13.0:
Any ideas what I was doing wrong? Could I have had the flash setting on “full” rather than “fill”? Would that explain this?
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Thanks Steve: I've got a longer question but I wanted to illustrate it with some of the problem photos, and I wanted to see if I could get a photo into a post. Thanks for advising me to resize the photos. I'll resize before trying it with my question.
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yes, especially the cyan shadows. I'm assuming that a second strobe will fill in and prevent that.
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I probably should have added that I've mostly been doing shots that are close up or just a few feet away--no attempts at wide angle. The lenes I have (and will probably stick with for a while) are the Olympus 60mm macro and the Olympus 12-50 mm. Would this information weigh more heavily for getting a second YS-01 and staying "balanced" rather than a D1?
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I have been shooting with an olympus EM-5 and a single YS-01 strobe. I've now got an EM-1 and a nauticam housing for it, and I'd like to get a second strobe. Should I get a second YS-01 or should I get a D1? If I get the more powerful D1, will there be a problem using two different strobes? I've mostly been shooting the camera on manual and use the strobe on TTL.
Are there advantages to staying "balanced" with the same strobe on each side? Are there advantages/disadvantages if the second strobe is the D1?
Any help or advice is much appreciated
--msilver2
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hello: I've been reading wetpixel for a while off and on, but I haven't tried to post a topic or question until now. I understand I need to do this "introduction" first in order to get authorization to open up a topic. complicated!
--msilver2 denver colorado
Id these Bonaire fish
in Critter Identification
Posted
photographed mid-August, 2017, in the shallows at a southern dive site