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sunnyboy010101

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sunnyboy010101 last won the day on May 17 2018

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About sunnyboy010101

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    Wolf Eel

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    Vancouver Island

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  1. I guess I was always worried about putting a 'set' into the o-ring if I left it closed. That is, leaving it squished and sealing seemed more likely to cause a leak down the road than letting it expanded with the housing open. As for spare o-rings, most of my good (i.e. aluminum) housings were bought used and so did not come with a spare. I did buy spares from the manufacturer for those. Go-pro housings do not come with a spare o-ring, though I suppose you could steal the one off the 'skeleton' door. Then again, go-pro housings are cheap enough to just buy another if they start to weep. For now my go-pro housing joins all the others being left open. Everything is under cover and protected.
  2. I have had several UW camera housings over the years, and I have always stored them open. Usually in something that keeps dust off. I make sure the seals/o-rings are dry but usually leave them on. On my larger housing, because I don't dive it as often and because the housing has 'corners', I actually remove the o-ring and store it separately. BUT... housings come from the manufacturer often with the o-ring installed and with the case CLOSED. My question is, is it better to store the housing week-to-week open, or closed (sealed). Sounds like a silly question for someone whose been doing this since 2003, but I recently got a brand new Go-Pro (official) housing and it came all sealed tight. I just wonder if you are supposed to keep them sealed or do as I've always done and leave them open. -R
  3. I've been diving long hose (7 ft) since 2003 when I dive bubbles. Never had any issues and I've also been taking a camera underwater since about the same time. Again, no issues, even with big DLSR housings and strobes. There are single tank configurations that use a 5ft hose but the standard doubles config was a 7ft hose which is what I've always used, even with single tank setups. I do have a long bungee that has a d-ring clip on one end and is securely fastened to the camera securely (i.e. arms or tray). This is my 'backup bungee'. I also have a loop on the housing and a double-ender to clip the camera off close to my harness. The long bungee is just there if I have to drop the camera in an 'event' so I don't lose it. Once the event is sorted, you can just pull back the camera and carry on or clip it off. I've had this system on every camera I've taken underwater since my second camera.
  4. I see a Deep Pro housing for the Go Pro 4 for sale locally, and a check on the Deep Pro housing shows a very nice housing with a corrected dome port that looks quite interesting. However, the last post on their FB page is like 2014, as is the video of the housing. It also seems the Go Pro 4 is the last model they've built a housing for. Does anyone know if they are still in business? If not, does anyone else make Go Pro housings that can go fairly deep and have a dome port? -R
  5. I bought a set of M67 'magnetic mounts' that I use as an alternative to the flip adapter. Very strong magnets in an AL housing. Screw one on the port, one on the lens so that you can quickly add the lens (i.e. macro) or remove it. I simply tethered the lens for my tests but a neoprene case would work as well. They came from ali-express and weren't all that cheap, but they do what I want.
  6. I just bought a used NA-16 housing to use as my scooter cam. I have a leak detector (V4) on my other housing (different housing, different camera). I transferred it to the new housing and pulled a vacuum on the empty housing. Left it for 24 hours... no issues. After that I just dove the housing using the leak detector. I did verify the moisture sensor worked (needed a new battery). Before the leak detector, I would always test a new housing by dunking it empty in a long tube I have that is 'deeper' than my rinse bucket, with paper towel in to check. Also after any housing change (port swap, whatever). Now with the leak detector, if I'm concerned I'll put it on the night before. If nothing has changed, I'll just run the vacuum and dive it.
  7. Indeed. If you are using one of the popular setup guides (i.e. A mode, F8, Ev -2) then that is specifically designed to give you 'dramatic' (i.e. very dark background) shots. Knowing how you are setting up the camera is important. I used the almost identical setup except a Bigblue video/spot light instead of Archon you mention. I got the dramatic 'very black background' shots using the settings above (also with the S2000), but that was exactly the effect I was seeking on my macro shots.
  8. I use both an 'action camera' (4K go-pro clone/copy), a point-and-shoot or a DLSR underwater. Since I often use a DPV on dives, I need something small and light, so the DLSR in housing with strobes is not taken on DPV dives, but the compact camera & action cam are. The action cam mounts on the DPV and I tether the compact to my harness. It works very well. That said, the action cam video is nowhere near the quality of the compact camera video. Same shot, same settings (1080p 60fps), the action cam footage is noticeably inferior to the compact. Not surprising considering the cheap plastic action cam lens plus the teeny-tiny sensor compared to the compact camera. I also know from comparisons with a dive buddy that real 'Go Pro' video is considerably superior to my 'action cam', but then I paid $80 CDN vs. over $500 for the latest Go Pro. You do get what you pay for.
  9. Well, that certainly shows how dumb I can be... I have a bag of those exact Uxcell items that I bought in 2018 (with the toslink cable and o-rings) specifically to make my own optical cords. I just never did make them as I have 4 now and have not needed any new ones yet. -R
  10. For the housings that take the approx 1/4in optical plug-in cables, what do people use for port plugs to block the extra port, assuming you have lost the ones that came with the housing? (i.e. sea & sea plug I believe it is)
  11. Price drop to $300USD + shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted. (Note: this new price does not include free shipping)
  12. Sorry, I tried to remove the ad or edit my posts but neither seems possible.
  13. UPDATE! $350US but now this price includes shipping to USA or Canada (Canada Post or USPS).
  14. Ikelite DS51 Strobe $350USD + Shipping/Paypal fees Ikelite DS51 Strobe (4044.1), comes with diffuser, 1" ball mount and manual Strobe is in excellent condition, never flooded, always rinsed in fresh water. Buyer pays shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted.
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