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sunnyboy010101

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Everything posted by sunnyboy010101

  1. X2 I bought a TG-6 and then an S2000 and it worked great. Like Chris says, you need the optical cable and a tray, but those can be had pretty inexpensively. The Inon S2000 is a really great strobe for small cameras, and works especially well in macro settings.
  2. I agree with ChrisRoss - always suspect the last thing you changed before the problem started. What I'm wondering is whether or not the new ring is deforming under pressure at 32m? This is only 104 feet, and should be well within the limits of the equipment, but it's always possible some minor flaw might be causing the sealing surface to shift enough to leak. I think the best test is the paper towel in the empty (weighted) housing on a dive to the same depth.
  3. Campark is the one I had most recently. However, I get the distinct impression all the various 'named' brands are all made at the same factory in China and sold via Amazon under a bunch of different 'brand' names so it looks like there's a variety. Often the specs can even 'ad copy' is identical for multiple units. I paid $70 CDN for mine a few years ago. I still see them in the $70 CDN range. All 4K, all 'action cam'. Most if not all come with an underwater housing that lasts about 2 years, then the buttons or the back door seal starts leaking. If you get one with a 'kit of stuff' then it comes with a spare door as well, so you get an extra year out of it. As a scooter cam in our murky water, I thought it was a pretty good deal until I compared footage side-by-side with my new GoPro 8. No comparison at all really. The '8' wins hands down in all categories - better white balance, better quality (much less pixelation at low light levels) and better lens. The housings are apples and oranges as well, even though I had to buy my gopro 8 housing separate. It's just a higher quality all around. Of course, consider the housing for a gopro hero 8 cost the same as the Campark action cam plus case plus housing plus a bunch of mounting stuff and 2 batteries... ;-)
  4. One thing I can report is that a 'real' GoPro (like my new Hero 8) is substantially better than the inexpensive clone 'action cameras' you can buy. I've been through about 4 different action cameras over the years, from a 1080p Muvi to the 'identical except in name' 4K action cameras you can buy for under $100 from amazon. I notice it especially in the amount of pixelation at low light levels (i.e. 90% of diving in PNW). Even my buddies gopro 3 was better at low light than my 4K campark units. I did a side-by-side comparison on a dive back in January and the difference was astounding. (both set to same resolution and frame rate).
  5. I have the 8 because I didn't want to pay that much, and 8's were a good price just after Christmas. I have played with mine for a few dives now (and used clones for years before that). I use mine mostly on the scooter handle (Dive-X P1). Amazing what a stable video platform the scooter makes even when it's off. I lock the trigger and hold the shroud and just 'point and shoot'. My current preferred mode of use has been to turn it on on the surface and leave it on the whole dive, then edit the final result. In 47deg F waters, yesterday I got 72 min dive no problems, with 38% battery after I got home. That is with 1080p 60fps video on all the dive, with default 1min 'screen saver' active. Two weeks ago I ran 2.7K 60fps with screen saver OFF (so the screen was on the entire dive) and the battery died at about the 65min mark. When it died, it was dead. I had to change batteries even to get it to fire up connected to USB on my PC. I could (of course) always use the upper button to create clips while I dive instead of just leaving it on, but I kind of like being able to review the entire dive, or at least that's what I'm enjoying for the moment.
  6. I guess I was always worried about putting a 'set' into the o-ring if I left it closed. That is, leaving it squished and sealing seemed more likely to cause a leak down the road than letting it expanded with the housing open. As for spare o-rings, most of my good (i.e. aluminum) housings were bought used and so did not come with a spare. I did buy spares from the manufacturer for those. Go-pro housings do not come with a spare o-ring, though I suppose you could steal the one off the 'skeleton' door. Then again, go-pro housings are cheap enough to just buy another if they start to weep. For now my go-pro housing joins all the others being left open. Everything is under cover and protected.
  7. I have had several UW camera housings over the years, and I have always stored them open. Usually in something that keeps dust off. I make sure the seals/o-rings are dry but usually leave them on. On my larger housing, because I don't dive it as often and because the housing has 'corners', I actually remove the o-ring and store it separately. BUT... housings come from the manufacturer often with the o-ring installed and with the case CLOSED. My question is, is it better to store the housing week-to-week open, or closed (sealed). Sounds like a silly question for someone whose been doing this since 2003, but I recently got a brand new Go-Pro (official) housing and it came all sealed tight. I just wonder if you are supposed to keep them sealed or do as I've always done and leave them open. -R
  8. I've been diving long hose (7 ft) since 2003 when I dive bubbles. Never had any issues and I've also been taking a camera underwater since about the same time. Again, no issues, even with big DLSR housings and strobes. There are single tank configurations that use a 5ft hose but the standard doubles config was a 7ft hose which is what I've always used, even with single tank setups. I do have a long bungee that has a d-ring clip on one end and is securely fastened to the camera securely (i.e. arms or tray). This is my 'backup bungee'. I also have a loop on the housing and a double-ender to clip the camera off close to my harness. The long bungee is just there if I have to drop the camera in an 'event' so I don't lose it. Once the event is sorted, you can just pull back the camera and carry on or clip it off. I've had this system on every camera I've taken underwater since my second camera.
  9. I see a Deep Pro housing for the Go Pro 4 for sale locally, and a check on the Deep Pro housing shows a very nice housing with a corrected dome port that looks quite interesting. However, the last post on their FB page is like 2014, as is the video of the housing. It also seems the Go Pro 4 is the last model they've built a housing for. Does anyone know if they are still in business? If not, does anyone else make Go Pro housings that can go fairly deep and have a dome port? -R
  10. I bought a set of M67 'magnetic mounts' that I use as an alternative to the flip adapter. Very strong magnets in an AL housing. Screw one on the port, one on the lens so that you can quickly add the lens (i.e. macro) or remove it. I simply tethered the lens for my tests but a neoprene case would work as well. They came from ali-express and weren't all that cheap, but they do what I want.
  11. I just bought a used NA-16 housing to use as my scooter cam. I have a leak detector (V4) on my other housing (different housing, different camera). I transferred it to the new housing and pulled a vacuum on the empty housing. Left it for 24 hours... no issues. After that I just dove the housing using the leak detector. I did verify the moisture sensor worked (needed a new battery). Before the leak detector, I would always test a new housing by dunking it empty in a long tube I have that is 'deeper' than my rinse bucket, with paper towel in to check. Also after any housing change (port swap, whatever). Now with the leak detector, if I'm concerned I'll put it on the night before. If nothing has changed, I'll just run the vacuum and dive it.
  12. Indeed. If you are using one of the popular setup guides (i.e. A mode, F8, Ev -2) then that is specifically designed to give you 'dramatic' (i.e. very dark background) shots. Knowing how you are setting up the camera is important. I used the almost identical setup except a Bigblue video/spot light instead of Archon you mention. I got the dramatic 'very black background' shots using the settings above (also with the S2000), but that was exactly the effect I was seeking on my macro shots.
  13. I use both an 'action camera' (4K go-pro clone/copy), a point-and-shoot or a DLSR underwater. Since I often use a DPV on dives, I need something small and light, so the DLSR in housing with strobes is not taken on DPV dives, but the compact camera & action cam are. The action cam mounts on the DPV and I tether the compact to my harness. It works very well. That said, the action cam video is nowhere near the quality of the compact camera video. Same shot, same settings (1080p 60fps), the action cam footage is noticeably inferior to the compact. Not surprising considering the cheap plastic action cam lens plus the teeny-tiny sensor compared to the compact camera. I also know from comparisons with a dive buddy that real 'Go Pro' video is considerably superior to my 'action cam', but then I paid $80 CDN vs. over $500 for the latest Go Pro. You do get what you pay for.
  14. Well, that certainly shows how dumb I can be... I have a bag of those exact Uxcell items that I bought in 2018 (with the toslink cable and o-rings) specifically to make my own optical cords. I just never did make them as I have 4 now and have not needed any new ones yet. -R
  15. For the housings that take the approx 1/4in optical plug-in cables, what do people use for port plugs to block the extra port, assuming you have lost the ones that came with the housing? (i.e. sea & sea plug I believe it is)
  16. Price drop to $300USD + shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted. (Note: this new price does not include free shipping)
  17. Sorry, I tried to remove the ad or edit my posts but neither seems possible.
  18. UPDATE! $350US but now this price includes shipping to USA or Canada (Canada Post or USPS).
  19. Ikelite DS51 Strobe $350USD + Shipping/Paypal fees Ikelite DS51 Strobe (4044.1), comes with diffuser, 1" ball mount and manual Strobe is in excellent condition, never flooded, always rinsed in fresh water. Buyer pays shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted.
  20. Price drop to $500 USD. Buyer pays shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted.
  21. Olympus TG-6 Camera and PT-059 Underwater Housing $550USD Olympus TG-6 Camera and PT-059 Underwater Housing for Sale. Both items are in excellent condition. Housing has never been flooded and was always rinsed fully in fresh water after every dive. Buyer pays shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted. Olympus TG-6 Camera includes: • Olympus TG-6 Red • Olympus battery, charger and charging cord (USB, also used for photo transfer) • Olympus Tough soft padded case • 64GB Memory card. Olympus PT-059 Underwater Housing includes: • Optical port attachement & blanking plug • Underwater lens cap • Olympus o-ring grease
  22. I have an Ikelite for the G16 (TTL version). I realize it's not the Canon housing you seek, but you can PM me if you are interested. (note: I'm on Vancouver Island, Canada).
  23. I dive a 35W HID canister due to our very dark waters off Vancouver Island. It died a while back (12yr old battery) and I used other lights while waiting for the new battery. I definitely LOVE the powerful HID. So I always carry that light. I also dive with a TG-6 rig (my 'scootering' camera) that has strobe and a Big Blue video light. I also dive with a DLSR with bigger strobe in Nauticam housing with Kraken ring light as focus lamp. The Nauticam is heavy, but I'm used to holding the canister light via goodman handle in my left hand at all times. The TG6 is much lighter. I can hold and shoot either camera one handed, but prefer to use both handles. I just point the light away from the shot so it doesn't interfere with the other 'camera' lights. Once you get used to doing it a certain way, it starts to come naturally.
  24. It's also important to think about how you want to take photos, and whether a particular strobe is appropriate. I got some used DS125's with a camera housing, and they were perfect for that set-up. However that meant "wired connection" and manual strobe use only (no TTL in the housing plus $$$$$ to convert to TTL). Eventually I sold them and got a pair of used Inon Z240s (when the 330s came out and everyone was unloading 240s). I like them a lot more than the Ikelite DS125s simply because I can use optical sync, which immediately made my system "TTL capable" (there's a pop-up flash on the DLSR that works inside the housing). As I prefer to have TTL in some circumstances ('off the cuff shots') it was worth switching strobes. Recently I bought an Inon S2000 because it's so tiny I can pack it on my 'scooter camera' and its just the right size to sit in the slip-stream. I realize it's nowhere near the power of the Z240, but for macro shots it's still totally fine, and I mostly take macro so I'm good. Again, this is why you need to spend the time figuring out 'your style' and what you want to do. Macro has different strobe/lighting needs compared to wide angle. Dark water/low vis vs. tropical reefs etc.
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