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sunnyboy010101

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Everything posted by sunnyboy010101

  1. I wasn't sure, so I grabbed my TG-6 and experimented. YUP - when you turn the flash off in A mode with minimum speed (I had 1/125) and maximum ISO (I had 400), it ignores you completely. I just took a 4second shot of my keyboard. :-) I suppose it's not totally unexpected - the shot would have been totally black if the settings had been honored. What I do find most disappointing is how "crummy" the manual is for the TG-6. I understand if this was the "user manual" and there was a more detailed "expert manual" or "technical manual", but the manual you download is all there is for the camera. I found two other horrible omissions in the manual: 1. It says nothing about what aperatures are ACTUALLY available in A mode. It also says NOTHING about how displayed aperature changes when you zoom. You can figure it out pretty quickly, but only 3 f-stops when first turned on? (2, 2.8, 8). Really? 2. It also says NOTHING about how to attain 1cm focus in A mode. If you just turn the dial to A and then switch from auto-focus to macro-focus, it doe NOT focus to 1cm. More like 2in. I had to read about zooming to 1.2X in order to activate the 1cm focus. It's weird to have to do that in the first place (why?) but not to mention it at all in the manual is just terrible. I love the camera, but am really disappointed in the manual. -R
  2. Ikelite strobe items for sale; prices shown below. Available individually or can be purchased together. All items in good condition and working when last used. Ikelite dual sync cord - Nikonos digital to 2xIkelite 4104.32 $190CDN or $145USD Ikelite Optical Slave Converter 4403 $125CDN or $95USD Ikelite EV Controller 4100.6 $150CDN or $115USD Buyer pays shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted.
  3. Strobe, Arm & Cord Package: Ikelite DS51 Strobe, sync cord, ball mount & arms $725CDN or $550USD Ikelite DS51 Strobe (4044.1), comes with diffuser, 1" ball mount and manual Ikelite single sync cord (Ikelite-Ikelite ends, 4103.51) Ikelite 5" strobe arm, two clamps & long quick-mount ball Everything is in excellent condition. Strobe never flooded. Willing to sell individually only if package does not sell first. DS51 Strobe $450CDN or $345USD Arm set $175CDN or $130USD (includes Ikelite quick-mount ball) Sync cord $100CDN or $75USD Buyer pays shipping from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada and any payment fees. Paypal or interac transfer accepted.
  4. The G7 Mk III was just announced this week. As for your question, I have been diving a G16 with Ikelite TTL housing for several years now. I quite love it, though I am not as fond of the corded TTL. I swapped another camera system to Inon Z240s and optical sync and am much happier. I looked at the G7 as well as the G9. They are almost the same camera (sensor, electronics, etc) but the G7 is considered to have a much better lens than the G9. It's also a bit 'thicker' than the G9 as a result. I don't like the G7 housings as they all have the oval port, which I dislike from a purely aesthetics standpoint. Also pure personal opinion, but I really do NOT want a touchscreen in my UW camera. Reading the reviews for the G9 & G7, it works (RecSea housing), but it's really fiddly to set up the first time, or so the reviews say. I ended up going with the Olympus TG-6 and PT-059 housing because it was so small. The TG-6 is the same native resolution (megapixels etc) as the G16, which was plenty good enough for me. I went for it based 100% on size (and cost, but that was incidental). So far after first dive I quite like it. I'm happy with my purchase (bought July 4, arrived July 9, 1st dive July 13).
  5. Quick update: Within 24 hours of my tech support email about Luminar3, I got a reply with a link to an actual windows (.msi) installer. That worked perfectly. I started looking at Luminar3 due to an emailed deal that was slightly better than 50% of the standard price, which also hit my personal "sweet spot" for stuff I'll buy just to try it out. After playing with the trial version for a little while, I bought the full version at the sale price. The good news is that because Luminar3 is updated very regularly, the latest version (May 2019) easily imported my Olympus TG-6 raw images. Sweet. As I still have LR6 (full purchase) and now Luminar3, I'll post any findings/thoughts as I start to use it and get a better sense of how it compares to LR6.
  6. New price: $160 USD. Same terms as original post.
  7. I'm using LR 6 (purchase) and to this point have loved it. Sadly, it won't import raw files from my new camera - the Olympus TG-6. I tried installing the raw camera update, but that seems to have been totally ignored. Finally I installed the latest raw converter and converted all the raw images to DNG and was able to import them into LR 6. But - I don't consider that ideal. Today I got an email offering me Luminar 3 for a pretty good "one time & forever" price. I'm tempted. Some on-line comparisons show the latest (May 2019) version is a pretty good compeditor for LR. Sadly, the trial I downloaded won't install. I have a call (email really) in to their tech support but so far it's not a promising start.
  8. Canon A570IS plus Ikelite 6140.57 housing. Housing has never flooded. Comes as shown with housing flash diffuser and manuals for both camera and housing. Includes one Panasonic 4G SD card. $200 USD. Shipping (from Vancouver Island B.C. Canada) not included in price.
  9. Yea. Turns out the TG-6 & housing is substantially less expensive as well if I buy it from the right place.
  10. 1mm... In what universe? Fantasea FG9X: 6.18 x 4.57 x 4.1” 157 x 116 x 103 mm Fantasea FG7X: 6.3 x 4.33 x 4.92” 160 x 110 x 125 mm FG7X is therefore 3mm longer, 6mm shorter, 22mm thinner. (almost an inch thinner) Thinner does make a difference to me. This is in the comparison specs found on Fantasea's site: http://www.fantasea.com/downloads/UW_Compacts_Cameras_Housings_ComparisonHighlight.pdf
  11. ChrisRoss, Thanks. Sadly I'm nowhere near a camera store, and land use is not the goal. Typically my UW cameras almost never get land use - I have dedicated land cameras for that. :-) Here's where I'm at at the moment: The G7X is arguably the much better camera (lens, focus/F-stop/zoom) than the Gx9, but all the pictures and videos of the Fantasea housings show the G7X housing is honkin' large compared to the G9X housing and the Olympus + housing. While the G7X is arguably superior to the G16, I have a complete G16/Ikelite TTL rig with dual handle trays, DS51 and Sola1200 for video. It's perfectly good for when I'm scootering adn can't/won't take the Canon 7D / Nauticam rig. The problem is that scootering with the G16 is still a pain - the camera is clipped off to a chest d-ring and even moving it out of the slipstream, it bangs about and slows me down compared to my buddy with similar gear but a Canon S95 /Ikelite housing. That thing is much smaller and easier to carry. I've used the G16 rig with scooter for three years now (more before the scooter) and it's ... OK. I managed to prop-foul the sync cord twice when I was getting used to the scooter, but not in a long time now. Again, it works - it's just really bulky. I've also taken go-pro clones either mounted on the scooter (from awful to acceptable depending on mount location) and also on a video tray I have (with the SOLA on a short loc-line). That was better for slipstream, but the gopro is a terrible photo camera, IMO. Fine video, but even there I'd rather use the G16 HD than gopro HD, just for the lens quality. I run the G16 (and the 7D) in macro mode all the time. Our water is so... mucky that I only get a couple of wider-angle shots per year. I've also got a close-up lens for the G16 but that makes it even MORE bulky, so I don't take it... pretty much ever. I like the size of the Olympus housing, and the overall price of the kit. But the camera performance isn't really "there" for 2019, and the housing is not as deep rated (I do take things to 150ft+ on occasion). I like the size of the G9X housing MUCH better than the G7X housing (it's really close to "big" territory) but acknowledge the G7X is the superior camera. Fortunately, as I do have a decent scootering camera now (just not 'optimal'), I can always simply wait for the next generation "best thing".
  12. Yea... The funny thing is looking at both Fantasea housings, I like the one for the G9X much better than the one for the G7X. Really minor things, but a definite impression nonetheless. The G7X is definitely the superior camera, but it's a bit larger, and a lot of the features I won't be using. For PNW, I need very good to excellent low-light focus, macro close-up focussing and 1080p video. I do have a wet lens for super macro, but I prefer simple close focus most of the time. You don't have to get all that close to a wolf eel to have it fill the frame. :-)
  13. Thanks very much to those who replied to my previous thread asking about Olympus TG-6 vs. TG-5. The comments got me thinking and I have a new question... First - basically I'm a Canon camera person since forever (well, the mid-1970's anyway). From film to digital I've used Canon. My underwater rigs include a Canon A570IS (Ikelite housing), then Canon G16(Ikelite TTL housing) and now a Canon 7D (Nauticam housing). I love them all but only dive the G16 and 7D now. However, both are quite bulky. There's no way I'm scootering with the 7D. Even the G16 is very bulky and has considerable drag when scootering. Which is why I asked about the new TG-6. Except... the pixels & sensor size is pretty small for 2019. In my prior thread I was advised to look at the G7X. I've looked at the G7X, and that led to the G9X. Both are almost identical cameras, though the G7X has better zoom, aperature and costs more, especially in $CDN. The G9X is smaller. I can get the G9X with a Fantasea housing for essentially the same price as the TG-6 and Olympus housing. It looks like the G9X is superior in most ways except the microscope mode and lack of 4K video. Though I do a lot of video, in the murky pacific northwest 4K is almost lost. I have a 4K gopro and it's hard to tell the video from my older 1080P gopro video. But - for $400 more I can get the G7X in a Fantasea housing. So - question: which would you choose for very compact camera - G7X (Fantasea), G9X (Fantasea) or TG-6 with Olympus housing? Again, thanks in advance.
  14. With the eminent arrival of the TG6 and the PT-059 UW housing, I am asking divers who currently own the TG5 & PT-058 for comments on how they like the camera/housing. Also, are you considering upgrading to the TG6 (I read both cameras fit in either housing)? I'm a long-time Canon person, but my G16 with Ikelite housing, strobe & video light are quite bulky. Compared to my buddy's more compact Canon, the G16 & housing is "huge". Not huge compared to Nauticam DLSR housing huge, but certainly big enough to offer considerable drag when scootering to a far dive site. I'm seriously connsidering the Olympus TG6 when it comes out, as the camera & housing are around $1000 CDN, which is typical for any compact camera & housing. Together they look to be a LOT smaller than the Ikelite G16 housing, which is what I'm after. But not being an Olympus person, I just don't know the camera at all. Hence my question. Thanks in advance.
  15. It was process of elimination. It didn't work well from the first time underwater, so I gradually eliminated all other possible issues until it could only be the ring light. Ultimately I was doing an A/B test with the same camera & optical cord on an Inon Z240 and the ring light. The Inon would always trigger and the kraken would not. The rep suggested my power wasn't high enough, so I repeated the test with 100% power from the on-camera triggering strobe. Same result. In the end they sent me a new Kraken 3000 and the new one worked from the very first time out of the box. That kind of "proved in hindsight" that it was the first 3000 that was at fault. Note - everything else worked perfectly on the first 3000, just that it would not reliably fire when triggered.
  16. I have the Vivid v4 on my Nauticam housing. My housing is older (Canon 7D) and came only with the leak detector. Sending the housing back for upgrade was not in the cards, so elected to get the Vivid instead. I do love it. One nice thing about the Vivid is that you can seal the housing, pull your vacuum, then turn the detector off. I only do this if I have to prep the night before, otherwise I seal things up before I head out and just leave it running the whole time until after I'm home and rinsed. I got in the habit of pumping an extra 7 pumps after getting vacuum. Once you first get the vacuum, the light can flicker, so the extra pumps just ensure a full vacuum is there. With that small pump, we aren't talking much delta-P on 1, 3 or 7 pumps, so I just went for the bit more to be sure.
  17. I've been using the Atlas blue vinyl gloves with various liners since ... forever. My cuff rings are the old Skaana (then Dive Concepts) and are still going strong. I personally like the 'clip on' rings vs. the 'screw on' rings. In the cold, I'm undoing my buddy's rings after every dive, while mine just come off easily. Since I've almost always used dry gloves (ever since my AOW years ago) and don't dive warm water, I only know dry gloves. Still, I've never had any problem with underwater cameras, from small ones to the larger DLSR systems. Currenly my liners are work glove liners from Mark's Work Wearhouse (Canada store) - the cotton yellow ones. They last and last and last, and it's like $10 per pair. I use cotton liners because anything with wool in it is ruined instantly by a glove flood, in my experience. For a time I even tried 2mm neoprene 'kayak gloves' inside, but they are much colder than a decent cotton glove. I've found the secret is to have enough room for 'air loft' - liners stuffed into a glove lose a lot of insulation, I've found.
  18. I bought my V4 direct from Miso at Vivid. No problem shipping to Canada, great person to deal with. I've had no issues with mine at all, though I did just have to replace the battery. The manual says "good for about 100 hours", but I got a lot more than that, and Miso sent a spare battery with the unit that made it a quick swap.
  19. I have the Vivid leak detector on my Canon 7D system. I don't have one on my G16 Ikelite system. I can also replace the Ikelite system for under $1000 (used) if it were to flood. I can't replace the 7D system without spending a LOT more than that. So the leak detector is insurance on the expensive system. So much so that yesterday when I was getting ready to dive, it wouldn't turn on. The battery was dead (just used up, no problem). Given the time frame, I just called the dive rather than dive without it. Later in the day I changed the battery (easy to do) and then let it sit under vacuum overnight (turned off). This morning I turned it on, verified the vacuum and went diving. Simply put, I will NOT dive that camera without a leak detector.
  20. The real value of the vacuum valve, IMO, is when you are unsure of something. For example, last week I assembled everything as usual, but for some reason the back wouldn't 'seat' without a few attempts. Even though I knew in the end it was seated and latched properly, without the vacuum valve I would have taken it all apart a few times 'just to be sure'. With the vacuum valve, once I could see the o-ring and seal looked good, I just turned it on and pulled the vacuum. Then the flashing green light all day simply confirmed all was well. So no more second-guessing and worrying and redoing things over and over. It's all about peace of mind. :-)
  21. Ive been using Silica Electra-Chemplex 710 for well over a decade now on all my non-o2 clean o-rings, including many different camera housings, strobe battery covers, DPV and even dry-glove rings. Wonderful stuff and not all that expensive.
  22. On a related note, all of my sync cord problems were the cord, not the connectors. I spend weeks trying to troubleshoot and diagnose my DS51 problem, only to discover it was the "power wire" in the cable. New cable solved the problem. (* on my G16 Ikelite TTL housing, the TTL circuit board is in the housing, but the power for the board comes from the strobe. Poor batteries can display the same problem as a bad cord, but changing the batteries for new ones eliminates that problem.)
  23. My photographer buddy who used to do this all the time just used big zip ties, or multiple zip ties. Basically, put enough on until it won't come loose. :-)
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