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bill1946 last won the day on January 19 2020

bill1946 had the most liked content!

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About bill1946

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EPM-1
  • Camera Housing
    Olympus PT-E06

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  1. I have not had this issue at all. Another on the boat did. Turned out to be something about the flash setting. In the camera. The issue as I remember it is to make sure it is set on "first curtain" for flash.
  2. Unless you are running your video camera all the time, why would you need lights that will last longer than a dive? I have a Gates setup with a Single 10,000 lumen video light. I only use it when the camera is on. I have plenty of power left after two long dives. I make four dives a day and swap batteries over the longer lunch break. Brands are mox nix, Lumens and battery life is key for me.
  3. This whole process has evolved over the last few years. Depending on what post processing software you use, the alternatives you want are usually built in. I place all my post process pics in a "new" folder. That allows me total control over where and what I do with them. Problem most forget is even with high rez jpgs, there is loss when copied. I tend to "move" rather than copy. I have a separate SSD where I place all my work. In fact, I have one for pics and one for video. They are relatively cheap these days and are great insurance. My preference is Samsung Pro 1 terabit.
  4. The first question that popped into my mind is what is your purpose for shooting video? Simply memorializing the trip. Simple and inexpensive will do. If you are serious for the best results, I would go for pro-sumer set up. To that end I wasted time and money on smaller set ups. I now use a top end Sony with a Gates housing. Never looking back! Controlling all the important settings with a zoom through wide angle port is a must. The two camera's you mentioned will give you satisfying results, but not great results. Good luck!
  5. I shoot Wide Angle only. Most intermediate to close shots the strobe do the job. HOWEVER, for ambient light shots, you will be happier with a fast lens. You can improve in post if shooting raw and full frame. However, getting the best in the can is preferred. One other important point is the quality of the dome port. Glass is only way to go for me!
  6. Ikelite Sony A7R III, A7 III, A9 Underwater Housing, 200DL $1,795.00 Sony FE 28mm F2 $449.99 I shoot the FE 50mm F1.8 as a solid midrange - mostly underwater portrait shots. Very fast focus!
  7. I agree with Andrea. I went down the Olympus M -5 and never regretted it. I can do all the things a full size DSLR can do without ANY of the bulk. I also got a 1" Sony compact, and it has a greater range of lenses if that matters.
  8. I shoot in raw and use post processing to get the shot framed to perfection. Once shot, you have what you have. No going back. Why limit your creativity? However, your choice!
  9. I like you was into pics only and then decided I wanted videos to memorialize the underwater experience. After wasting money, I finally bought a Pro-sumer Sony, Gates Housing with wide angle port. The port allows for complete zoom through with the Sony and I love it. So, I would recommend similar set up (your brands of choice)for you. I would recommend dual video lights (not cheap) or a single wide beam 10,000 lumens. Good luck!
  10. One of my set ups is a Oly OM-D 5 set up. Housing and Camera. Shooting the 9-18 Oly lens. I shoot Sony Pro video in a Gates housing. This is my photo camera. I have to say it is extremely dependable without any issues with zoom through and very sharp focus. See picture of the small but powerful set up.
  11. I shot DLSR Video exclusively for years. What you are getting (one video) appears good for what you have. You mentioned ISO. What tip I got was to set ISO to auto with a max of 1600 and let the camera handle that. I stopped white balancing and went for the "flip" over red cayenne filter. I shoot mostly ambient knowing I'm giving up some color, but it is truer to life. The greatest challenge for us all is camera movement. I learned to shoot with the water movement instead of working against it. Getting the shot while making the viewer seasick is a bummer. I now skip those. After years of whining, I moved to a used pro video rig. Sony video and Gates housing with wide angle. I got a 10,000 Lumen light that was a game changer (for me). Still use the red filter for ambient, 4k and 60FPS or 30FPS I set Gain (ISO) to auto with a max and also set Iris (f stop) to auto. Results are stunningly better. The heavier rig actually gives me more success with stability. Being slightly negatively buoyant is a plus as well. Good Luck and Great Diving!
  12. I would recommend the following for the Oly set up. Further, if you are going to do macro, I would have two set ups so that one is wide and the other is macro. You will be glade you did. WA-100-EP Pen Dome for the: Olympus M.ZUIKO 9–18mm f/4–f/5.6
  13. I have the newer A7 RII. I have a friend with your camera body. Both are noted to have extraordinary sharp auto focus. I cannot think of a reason not to take advantage of the feature. I'm old school and let the camera and its capabilities lead. I'm shooting the Sony FE 16-35mm f/2.8 G Master Lens
  14. Since it came out, I've tried both ways. Finally settled on TTL, since I'm usually shooting stuff that I get one shot. Seahorse, maybe manual or similar critters.
  15. This is what most successful people do while using WB. Learn to easily and quickly switch from "Auto" to your "WB" setting. Also, most people reset WB each 15+ feet or so. I'm a bit lazy so I set mine at 35+ feet and then at around 60. However, at depth I'm usually using strobes. Also, friends that use a card place red squares on the card in order to get a better setting. I use the gray steel tank of a fellow diver. Works well for me.
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