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bill1946

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About bill1946

  • Rank
    Triggerfish

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EPM-1
  • Camera Housing
    Olympus PT-E06

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  1. Nauticam manufactures an extensive line of compact ports to accommodate many of the best lenses for m4/3. Lenses that are particularly well suited for underwater use include the Panasonic 8mm fisheye, Panasonic 7-14mm, Olympus 9-18mm, Panasonic 14mm, Olympus 14-42, Panasonic 14-42mm, Panasonic 45mm macro, 60mm macro (upcoming), new Olympus 12-50 w/ macro (Supported by a special new Nauticam port for power zoom and macro switch).
  2. Crew members want to please you and protect your gear. Fold your arms so that do not "flopp". Instruct the crew BEFORE you dive that you do NOT want them to use anything but the try arms to pick up and to hand you the rig - in and out of the water. The strap between to two handles is seen a lot. However, I dislike that personally and have had no problems.
  3. The most common is should it not be the o-rings, is the buttons or levers on the housing. They may have "bladders" or o-rings themselves. You should contact the mfg. They may be self repairable. If not, you will have to send to a repair center.
  4. Weights would be simple, but you would not be snorkeling as you would be deeper than the snorkel length. Using a line only, would cause carbon dioxide build up in the line and is not safe. If you own a tank, you could create your own SNUBA setup with a long 2nd stage line. A 10' line should be sufficient and you could even float the system with your current BCD.
  5. I would first test the flash on another camera using fiber optic connection to a flash. If it works, there are various settings on the camera that would cause not strobe flash. If it does not, the flash could be bad. It is not uncommon, but does happen. If you go down the "camera setting" path, that can be tricky and you may want your shop to give you a hand. The point being is there are a number of ways to force the camera to flash in a housing and another set of settings that control the flash through the camera.
  6. Most MFG sell extensions for their trays. I just did that with a ULCS tray. I was doing what you are suggesting. It was not bad, just felt off balance and not lighting well. I did add a 3" ball arm that helped before I got the extension. The extension is about the same price.
  7. That is why most people with expensive cameras have vacuum systems. That said, DO NOT TEST IN SALT WATER. Test in a fresh water at home. Even so, housings are under pressure at depth. So, the results of a foot or two of water may give some piece of mind you won't know until at depth. So if the home test passes, then on the ocean attach a line with more than enough weight and let'r go. Drop at least 30+ feet. Upon retrieval, you will have your answer without risking the camera. Vacuum systems are not that expensive and cheaper than gear insurance!
  8. Nodal points are rarely mentioned, but are critical. Pictures work well.
  9. I have the same set up. My 9-18 with the Zen wide angle is my favorite. I have the 25 mm 2.0 for portraits/small things. I don't like to shoot macro. Too much variability in set up with unhappy outcomes. Further going down with a macro set up; you are stuck. Anything big will frustrate you. With that said, do you have the Zen Dome Port for Olympus 9-18mm Wide-Angle Lens with the port adapter? The lens is designed to pinpoint the noddle point for crisp focus. I get great focus with the port/lens combination. Good thread here.
  10. There is an old saying "Introduce too many variables and you are certain to disappoint." I would stick with you wide angle for sure and then add a macro or close up system. Also, you MUST use two powerful strobes in deep blue water as in the Sea & Sea YS D2. Once you have mastered the above, you may consider other options. Getting to the right rig set up for you can leave you with a lot of money staying home because you bought too much too soon. I've been playing in this sandbox for 20 years and I hear more "regret" stories than I would prefer. Good Luck!
  11. Checked with Olympus technical. They said if it was not the contacts, it was most likely an "internal ribbon connector". One I would not try to fix myself. UNLESS it works on another 4/3 cam. They suggested you send it in (not anytime soon, right!). See the same fault rarely on well-used M. Zuiko 9-18mm with "Check lens status" message. Olympus will repair (U.S.) charge ~ $168 to fix the problem but a total rebuild/refurbish. Internal/external cleaning and reset to factory specs. The part replaced is listed as "FRAME 22, UNIT 2". They do not replace individual ribbons but the whole board (a good thing). He asked if under warranty.
  12. Let me know if this works. If not, I can research the issue for you and then send same along to you.
  13. I have the same lens. If it has set up for a long period, it could be contacts. I use a simple alcohol (91%) with a Q tip to swap the connectors until they are bright and shiny. Examine the camera as well. Clean them if the appear the least bit "not shiny". The error you are getting is the Camera is NOT recognizing (reading) the lens information. Olympus cameras will not let you use a lens it cannot "read".
  14. What would you consider a reasonable price for the housing only?
  15. Will the housing work with the Sony FDR AX100? If so, I would be very interested in housing.
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