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Everything posted by bill1946

  1. You have good equipment and doubt that it is lens or camera. You mentioned the "virtual image". You are on the right track. Wide angle and ports are HUGELY impacted by the Nodal point created by the port. The lens MUST match that. My source is a person that designs port/lens combinations. You likely cannot or do not want to spend that kind of money. However, Nauticam or your lens mfg. should be able to guide you. Good luck.
  2. You did not say why you need the door open. That is unusual for this camera. With that said the "doors" on cameras are held in place by small pins. You can either cut the pin or attempt to compress it so the door "pops" off.
  3. The Sea & Sea Internal Correction Lens is a unique optical tool designed to correct image abberration and distortion caused on wide angle lenses shooting behind a dome port. This lens attaches directly to the lens on your camera and is designed for Full Frame cameras behind large dome ports. When shooting wide angle underwater it is common practice to stop down the aperture to F8 or higher in order to product the best overall photo with sharp corners. It is commonly known that larger (smaller number) aperture causes distortion and blurring at the edges / corners of an underwater photo due to refraction differences in water vs air. This lens has been carefully designed to correct that difference and improve blurring and distortion. Curvature & distortion are improved by approximately 2 F-Stop values when using the Internal Correction Lens.
  4. I say "avoid buyers remorse"! It is terrible. Between smaller sensors and FF, it is both weight and size. I strongly suggest "try before you buy". Many shops will rent gear. Or, while on a trip, try to borrow gear you "think" you may buy. I've seen this often and other Photographers are eager to help. After going through the above, my wife and I ended up getting m34 systems. We shoot in raw. I can get all the gear without exception into one small roll-aboard. As for shooting. My wife shoots a Zen lens with the Oly 9-18. Pics are great. As for sensors, the real difference is the crop factor. On land, I'm a FF guy; l landscape and wild life. Detail of the field of view definitely favors FF. Short story? People cannot tell what format I shoot UW. It is less about the system than the 8" behind the view finder. Tim, makes a good point. Choose your format and then get as small and low weight as you can. My two cents. Good Luck
  5. As you can tell by reading this, it comes down to user experience/choice. However, Nauticam and Subal tend to lead the class.
  6. The critical factor is not "fit". It is the "nodal" point of the light coming through the port (especially wide angle). I've found Nauticam Technical capable in lens/port selections. Google "nodal point" in photography. I know one of the builders and this is their major complaints with customers; ignoring this factor. https://oceanity.com.au/blog/view/dome-port-positioning-visualiser-the-entrance-pupil
  7. I shoot the OM-D 5 with Oly 9-18 mm and Zen lens (adapter if needed). I am not shy about pushing the ISO to get the exterior shots. The interior needs good strobes. I moved up to the Sea and Sea YS-D2 Underwater Strobes. I shoot raw so I can do a little tweaking if necessary in post. After a couple of thousands shots, I might do the Nauticam 6 inch Dome Port for Panasonic 7-14mm Lens. BUT, do not get fixed focus lens. You will regret it. At these costs, you don't want buyers remorse :)
  8. I get your frustration. Can you find another person with a similar set up and try their bolt? The size MAY be stamped on a common item. If not, try to measure it in metric. If you can determine thread and length have anyone mail you one.
  9. This happens to all of us. I have always found going to your local store that sells high quality stainless steel screws/bolts. Take you stuff with you and it is highly likely you will find exactly what you want. Not worth fretting over. All manufacturers us "standard" screws/bolts.
  10. I go by the old adage in photography, "you get what you pay for". What do you "want or need" from the camera's performance? Since you are shooting mostly macro, low light (fast glass) should not be a big factor. Personally, I go for very accurate and fast focus. Sony is the king in that area. Even in full frame. Others may dissagree on this forum and that is okay. I've shot many cameras in 20+ years and the Sony wins for me every time with focus. If you also shoot video macro, it will be very noticeable. I shoot 4k 24p and it looks astonishing. Hope this helps some. Good luck!
  11. I would choose a higher quality lens, even if it is fixed focus. 25mm 1.8. Also, the "nodal" point of the port lens is critical. Ask Nauticam.
  12. Want to buy a gently used Sony A7iii. Body only or body with fast lens. Will to pay reasonable price.
  13. I would save your money and add a 6" arm for each side. As for the concern for leaks, knowing you have a leak cannot compare with knowing there is a problem BEFORE entering the water. See for yourself. Have one of your buddies create a small vacuum. I guarantee you will not be able to separate the two pieces of the housing. https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/The-Backscatter-AirLock-Vacuum-System-for-Underwater-Camera-Housings This site also has an excellent demo video that is convincing. I have an uber expensive Gates set up with pro video. I paid $1,249 for my system. Bargain for results!
  14. I had the problem twice. Once, the the housing pin was slightly off center. The above will work. Test, before getting in the water. The second time, the camera was not seating well in the housing. This can cause all types of problems, but a button/lever not working is common. Good luck!
  15. For me, I would use my housing and clear the lens with no worry. I would not use my naked camera lens in this way. A consideration, is to use a clear UV filter and clean water spots without worry. However, unless the lens is splash proof, I would not.
  16. It would help the readers if you would provide the all the settings for this shot. From the picture, it could be a number of issues. Need more info.
  17. I'm interested. When are you going to make your first post and what platform?
  18. I've shot the Olympus 4/3 OM-D series for years. I'm thinking about moving up to a full frame. I'm nearing the end of my diving and will keep the FF for use afterwards. So, what would be your choice and why? I'm leaning towards the the Sony A 7 iii or the A7r. However, as I learned from the forum, be open to what experienced users recommend!!
  19. I have not seen any. What you get out of the can is about as good as it is going to get. If you find a difference, I would appreciate knowing what you have found. Thanks
  20. Sounds great to me. I seal my O-Rings [lubed] in zip lock bags, regardless. I (and many friends) store our gear in clear plastic tubs with a tight lid. Keeps dust out and moisture changes to a minimum.
  21. I shoot 4k 30p for all my underwater video. I use Photoshop Premiere without a problem. I output in 1080p because most people do not have 4k tv's or players. Check your settings before getting started. You should see that option. Some say that once you load your first clip the software automatically recognizes it.
  22. Here is a short video showing all lighting situations with the same set up. As you will see the variations are what we all see. I find it acceptable.
  23. Top of the line full frame! If you plan on keeping it, might as well get a top of the line housing as well. Check out the Sea & Sea D850 Underwater Housing the smallest of the aluminum D850 housings with easy to reach controls. It is lighter than the Sea & Sea D810 housing. The controls have been upgraded to a spring-loaded system to prevent any slippage from gear wear or slight camera dimension differences. TTL converter with the optical flash trigger can be purchased separately. Good housings are worth the money and can cost more than the camera. Now, strobes and arms!?!?!
  24. I shoot video exclusively and have used a 4/3 high end camera and now a prosumer video camera. Through trial and error, I find that a flip blue water filter is the best for wide angle and a good video light (close up/macro) is best combo for color correction. I tried the gel and found I was very disappointed when (as is normal for me) when my dive changed and there were missed shots!! Hope this helps and good luck!
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