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Otara

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Everything posted by Otara

  1. Ikelite - using the 10-17mm port on the 8 inch dome where you cant see the clips, far as I can tell one of the clips popped while rotating the port. Port design since changed. Lost camera, lens survived. Small leak on Nauticam at zoom knob. Turned out no loctite being used on early versions, apparently is now. No camera or lens loss. Retested and didnt leak, but zoom failed to work for 17-70mm entire trip as a result, because it was out of alignment and I blamed my lens being too stiff instead of realising the real culprit. Again, since changed apparently. I was very very lucky it didnt unwind entirely, as I hadnt really figured out what was causing the problem and assumed it was just a grain of sand or the like. I have the Leak Sentinel earlier version but unfortunately it also sticks out too far to use with my tokina and 8 inch dome, which is an ikelite/nauticam combo and rather unusual so hardly foreseeable, just bad luck. So it means it ends up too much swapping around is needed, which increases room for mistakes with someone like me. Ill update when I next plan to do a trip as apparently its since been shortened - I mostly do macro now, so its not a big issue. The obvious lesson here seems to be dont buy version 1! Otara
  2. And cost. A d7000 nauticam housing is 3300 us, while a nex7 is 1850 at one site, and that's without an external viewfinder. The lack of a good macro lens is annoying but once that's addressed, it will be a pretty compelling option in my view, and olympus now has a good m43 macro with the 60mm.
  3. You might want to also take a good look at mirrorless systems, particularly the NEX and Olympus systems. They now have very high quality sensors, good autofocus for single shot subjects, and a lot cheaper, and lighter. Being able to avoid the viewfinder issues with DSLR's really has its advantages as well. Another alternative might the newly announced Canon 70D if you can wait - it has a new autofocus system that may also make liveview focusing far better than previous DSLR efforts. But just from a pure image quality perspective, you certainly cant go wrong with a secondhand D7000 setup.
  4. I understand having to declare cropping so as to take into account its use in judging the overall image. Banning it is where I get a bit befuddled. But photography competitions in general leave me a bit baffled compared to other art competitions. Just seems to get to the point of me wondering when the 'one arm behind your back' category is going to turn up. Otara
  5. My maths shows that to be over $4k worth, so it may be a bit too good pricewise if anything. That will be a quite large rig, but the strobes are quite powerful and have some video capability as well. If you're intending to travel with it, you might want to look for some of the smaller options.
  6. I havent had any issues with the rear wheel. I have had the zoom knob become loose. It was slowly unscrewing, and as a result the main zoom gear wasnt working properly on the lens zoom gear and slipping. Just needed retightening and a bit of mild loctite. Did cause a small leak (no damage thanks to the leak detector!), so Id be careful using it underwater till you figure out whats going on.
  7. Its all guesswork in the end and cameras are ultimately pretty expensive investments that drop in value pretty quickly. Future proofing is going to always be pretty dicey at best. Committing to a new system would be another story, but again, I doubt anyone can really be too certain how useful anything will be in 5 years unless its full frame and higher end lenses. Micro 4/3's is doing well now but could be in a very different place over the periods discussed. In my view decisions are better based on what current priorities are rather than trying to do the crystal ball thing too much - eg image quality vs size, overall cost, lens ranges that are desired, things like that. Otara
  8. Because the early sensors sucked by comparison, the lens range was pretty ordinary, and there wasnt that much of a cost advantage. Speaking as someone who managed to sell his Olympus range not too long before 4/3 got abandoned in favour of M4/3, it kind of deserved a reaming as being too early and not good enough. Otara
  9. I dont think its so much 'cannot' as theres no compelling reason to go to a m4/3 format for most of the advantages you get with a mirrorless setup. The whole point of M format with canon is to make the lens even smaller again without changing the sensor size, while still offering access to a massive available lens range. Conversely, Nikons option is to go smaller again. Its M4/3 that is ending up in the middle really, not APS/DX, or at least thats the way Canikon is trying to go with the market. Otara
  10. I dont really care what format we end up with, I just wish we knew for sure what it was going to be! As in getting a lens collection together for APS-C is going to be a bit irritating if theres no 7D II. If I knew it wasnt coming, I'd focus on a few different lenses, but vice versae if there was going to be a 7D II.
  11. I found having an external viewfinder made a far bigger difference to my photography than having a Nauticam housing over an Ikelite. The other big thing was having the option for optical strobe firing, which you might not get with a D200 housing, or want to have anyhow. I used to find the 10-17mm port for the Ikelite a bit scary, but with the extra port locks its not what it was. There are also more dome options for that lens than there used to be. Finally, its also a question of build - large hands vs small can make one housing or the other more comfortable for instance, so try and get your hands on each if you can. Otara
  12. Hi Phil, Check your camera first - wireless off, manual, 1/128, 1st curtain and 2nd work, servo AI set on af-on back button only. I have no problems with 2-3/second, even with battery on half, just checked it. with hi speed fps and the 5fps setting. Id bet strobes myself, manual and lowest setting, can never remember whether button in or out for pre-flash. Otara
  13. Given how many external viewfinder options there are now, theres a lot to be said for considering getting a lower spec camera with an external viewfinder over a higher one with the normal viewfinders. And with the phase detect on sensor, it may even be unnecessary for that, if the stills focus is fast enough. Floodwise it is easier to replace, however Ive had a mini flood where the weather sealing on the 7D may be what saved it. But a spare body is pretty hard to beat in that regard, and makes above water shooting easier as well. In conclusion, dunno. Id miss the burst shooting and various other things for above water, but underwater the cost savings make it pretty compelling, and any sensor advantage is likely to be measurable but not particularly meaningful. x-sync speed maybe? The only other issue I can think of is how easy that camera will be to use underwater if you cant use the touch screen options. Otara
  14. I agree that its good to separate the advertising from the reality. However for me lenses inside the mask had lots of barriers as my old prescription was quite high, let alone photography underwater with a DSLR. I think its ultimately an individual decision rather than an overall good or bad idea. Mine are a compromise in that they're the older single focal length type, one near, one far. One thing I have noticed is that my night sight seems worse, I think because of lower contrast. Overall Im glad I had them done, but if you can use contacts instead, I think they're a far better option overall. Otara
  15. It is a problem from an anxiety perspective, but pretty much impossible as long as the o-ring is lubed. One option is to use the 6 inch port instead, as it allows you to see its in place, as well as allowing even closer focus. Another is to get a leak detector and do a dunk test. Otara
  16. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35013 Might be some help. Otara
  17. The backplate stays, its only the front bit that gets replaced. Its basically 'like new' though, in that $200 covers the full service as well, apart from any cosmetic scratches on the backplate. Went fine, I got mine after I gave myself a flood from a front clip popping, so its well worth doing it before you manage that like I did. Otara
  18. Yes, you'll have to switch to manual on the strobe, same as for the micro strobe. But then you can make the power output whatever you need it to be, it simply acts as a trigger for the strobe to fire. Otara
  19. Just switch your internal flash to manual and go down to the minimum power level. Gets you about 3fps according to Gudge, which will outpace most optical strobes. Otara
  20. Medium range lenses can also be useful for critters like sharks, particularly where its in places where you're generally not going to be able to get too close. My 17-70 was often more useful at Galapagos than my 10-17mm. I may not have got any competition winners but at least I had pictures of teeth rather than pictures of minnows. Otara
  21. Yes theres straight non electrical tubes, and ones like the Kenko. And EF only, the person above said 50mm, not 60mm so may be fine for both. The 100mm is 58mm or 67mm, depending on L or not, but a step ring is only a couple of dollars. Otara
  22. From a practical perspective I suspect many of us get to spend a lot more time in front of a computer than in the water, or may even never get to return to take pictures of some locations. So having ways to still work with images to make them closer to what you envisaged or experienced it to be is fantastic. Its still your memory and experience, regardless of what standard it would be held to in a competition or the like. Otara
  23. TTL conversion seems to be a bit rare for Canon. Eg Ikelite only makes an external TTl adapter for Nikon, not Canon. Si I wouldnt get hopes up too high for more than a trigger at best. Otara
  24. I will have to put a lot of thought into whether or not I approve of this camera that I wont be able to buy for about a decade. Otara
  25. Well with the knobs/buttons impacting, there isnt a lot of room. http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/can_7d.html You have the raw/jpeg button almost flush, the on-off button sticking out a fair bit, and the liveview button as well. I cant remember which ones were causing most trouble, I think it was the liveview as its right next to the VF hole, maybe the on-off knob as well. But you're the guy making them and we're talking different VF's anyhow. I hope a workable situation can happen with Inon, but it was a complete nogo with what I had. Otara
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