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About rinjani

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Oakland, CA

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7200, D810, Z7
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam D7100
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelites - DS161
  • Accessories
    lots of kit
  1. That's a stunning collection of images - beautiful work and congratulations to all the photographers.
  2. Beautiful, what a wonderful moment that must have been. Jon
  3. Purchased a Nauticam dome from @robovet. Good transaction, prompt response, rapid delivery. He even mentioned and refunded the excess shipping charge! Recommend and would work with again. Jon
  4. HI, When I used to have an Ikelite housing I would get it serviced once a year or so. I just sent it to them directly. It usually took about 3 weeks including shipping time. For my Nauticam housing I have had it serviced about once every two years. My understanding for Nauticam USA is that you have to go through a dealer for service rather than sending it directly to them. I have used Backscatter (Monterey) for this. I had Backscatter do a pressure test during the year when I didn't have the Nauticam service. Last time the Nauticam service was over two times more expensive ($500-600 as I remember) than on previous occasions. HTH Jon
  5. Thanks for the review. I am also considering the Z7II as well so this is a timely writeup. Jon
  6. Hey Joe, Haven't seen you in a while. Hope you're having a better experience over there after a few days. When I moved to the D7100/7200 the initial TTL wasn't so good but it was worked out. I think it's getting harder and harder for 3rd party companies to manage the the electronic setup. The obvious ask is then just don't claim that you've integrated when you haven't. Enjoy the rest of your trip over there and good shooting. Jon B
  7. You need a tray such as the one in the attached image and couple of the ball joints to add ultralight (or compatible) arms. This is an infinity tray purchased from Backscatter a long time ago. If you are interested in purchasing let me know. Jon
  8. A really easy way to clean sensors, assuming you have some kind of mirror lock up, is with clean air under light (light!) pressure. You can usually blow the sensor clean before needing to try using isopropyl. Find a scuba tank and add a small nozzle to it to act as a blower, don't use full pressure obviously since you might damage the sensor, but something modulated down works fairly well. HTH
  9. I have used both the 2-lock and 4-lock system with the Ike 8" dome. I was initially worried about the integrity of the system but once you get the housing completely submergered the dome-housing seal is generally fairly good. I've also used it snorkeling and chasing whale sharks without problem, and on long surface kicks from shore entries. I have twice had water drops get into the dome, both times during safety stops while hanging at ~15ft without any obvious reason; drops just started to enter the dome as I watched. I have to assume that either the dome was not seated 100% correctly (even though this was the end of the dive and there had been no drops earlier during the dive) or something like fin wash or contact (from me or a buddy) caused the problem. I now pray slightly each time I use it but it has not yet flooded, I just assume that it may happpen one unhappy day.
  10. Some stunning and wonderful images, looks like everyone had a great trip.
  11. This has been a touchy subject since we started with digital. I agree with Alex, you need to see the RAW files first to eliminate anyone who didn't follow the rules and determine who is eligible for the final judging. One reason I don't enter any of these contests anymore because it's impossible to know exactly what manipulation will fall within the rules. Taking the current LAUPS General Rules for manipulation (for monthly comps): "Complex manipulations requiring masks, advanced elements like the healing tool or clone tool, and precise brushes are not allowed. Burning simple backscatter out of a black background with a coarse brush is allowable; precisely healing backscatter in a complex background is not." One person's precison on healing backscatter might be far better than someone else's so they don't think it's a problem. Also, would this would cover fixing of sensor dust problems, I don't know but that's not backscatter, right? If I use a complex filter such as Viveza or Noiseware is that allowed, no masks, very simple slider controls? What about creating a digital version of a "contrast mask", it's just three or four simple steps in Photoshop and not a mask but a layer, so the old "film" phrase for it suggests it wouldn't be allowed, but I call/think of these as "contrast layers" myself. My biggest problem is going from RAW to a final JPG file to submit or use for printing. You have to do all kinds of adjustment layers after dealing with the RAW conversion to get the "look" you want and I assume if it's too far from the RAW file (and I do not know how to determine if I've reach the "too far" point) it'll be disqualified. I know my final images from a RAW file are nothing close to the RAW file, same with the jpg files that my camera produces. Just changing the light temp a few 100 Kelvin in RAW can have a big effect on the final output but sometimes that makes things work well. Adding saturation, vividness, brightness, hue, contrast and so on are all required to post-process RAW but when do these sucessive steps become excessive and break the competition rules? It really needs to be up to each competion judging board to set their rules, convey them as well as possible, and then review RAW files to decide which are eligible ( say the top 15-20 in each category). One possible idea, have a post-mortem to show why certain entries were discounted (although I can see other problems with that such as folks getting upset with being exposed [sorry, had to say it ] or having winning entries from other competitions disqualified). Maybe you can create an examples page to show approximately were you draw the line - a lot of work of course but then it gives people an idea of what is considered acceptable (and, of course, the judge's have the final say). Jon
  12. The T3/T4 Nikon diopters (no longer made but available in places) are 52mm which fit the Nik 105 AF. The T5/T6 are 62mm and can be used with adapter rings. A wet diopter that you can add as needed in front of the port is a good solution as well (as mentioned already).
  13. They told me that they couldn't possibly insure me because of the nature of my photography, including the use of underwater housings (plus, I could possibly make money from the resulting photos !?!). I just meant they may question your use of UW housings at some point and say it's not something they can cover. Rinjani
  14. Steve, that's exactly what I had - the State Farm supplemental insurance that you can get if you have home owners with them. After much back and forth Iwas told no way. So I'm shopping around. As I said to my agent I find it hard to believe that no one else with State Farm has the same type of items insured through them as an amateur photographer...seems like you're another one. Don't be suprised if they start to question you sometime in the future. I'm looking at the DAN insurance but it's almost 3X more expensive than State Farm. Thanks rinjani
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